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#9
Looks to me like he'll need a new fender/fender flare and a tire. I've seen when this happens to others.. Op is lucky if it didn't rip the CV apart. Looks like the door escaped. I don't see any fluids on the ground so I don't think he ripped a brake line or pulled the CV out of the diff. That's about all I can think that could be damaged.
#13
dang that sucks. i searched but could not find any answers but is there anyway you can tell if your ball joint is about to go? I mean i'd rather change it to prevent this type of accident. is it necessary to change both upper and lower at the same time? i just hit 164k on my 4runner and want to avoid any major break downs as it is my only vehicle. thanks!
#14
dang that sucks. i searched but could not find any answers but is there anyway you can tell if your ball joint is about to go? I mean i'd rather change it to prevent this type of accident. is it necessary to change both upper and lower at the same time? i just hit 164k on my 4runner and want to avoid any major break downs as it is my only vehicle. thanks!
It's really just something you change as a preventative measure. Sometimes you can feel slack in them when you try to shimmy the wheel top-to-bottom, but this is a different situation. The metal sheared off and there was probably not much to tip anyone off that this would happen.
With all the horror stories and pictures like this, I would recommend changing them at about the same intervals as your timing belt, 90-125k.
At just about $200, and turbo-easy to do in your driveway, there's no reason not to do it.
#16
Define professional...
I wheel with a mechanic, we checked the rig out before I bought it, as well as just about everytime I'm out at his place to ask questions and such. There was no front end clacking, or grease spots around it (I actually do check that sort of thing). I wasn't doing anything crazy, just a left hand turn from a stop.
What scares me about professionals/experts, is they think they know it all... and are usually quick to sell you parts you don't need. I have a friend that worked for honda who said they never really "fixed" anything, they just replaced the broken/worn part with new parts.
Man... DailyDrive, I don't know why, but that post totally rubbed me the wrong way.
Thanks for the support guys, the teardown begins today, even though I won't be able to get parts until tomorrow. I'll try to document what I've done even though I've already found a few post that runs through the upper and lower ball joint replacement
I wheel with a mechanic, we checked the rig out before I bought it, as well as just about everytime I'm out at his place to ask questions and such. There was no front end clacking, or grease spots around it (I actually do check that sort of thing). I wasn't doing anything crazy, just a left hand turn from a stop.
What scares me about professionals/experts, is they think they know it all... and are usually quick to sell you parts you don't need. I have a friend that worked for honda who said they never really "fixed" anything, they just replaced the broken/worn part with new parts.
Man... DailyDrive, I don't know why, but that post totally rubbed me the wrong way.
Thanks for the support guys, the teardown begins today, even though I won't be able to get parts until tomorrow. I'll try to document what I've done even though I've already found a few post that runs through the upper and lower ball joint replacement
#17
Good luck with it. Mine not only started leaking but made creaking noises as well.
Each state is different with inspections. NC requires them (where I live) have rather laid back inspections. VA is all buisness when it comes to them. SC, where I went to college and my parents live, did away with them in 96.
When my friend's went out on him last year rolling out his driveway (lucky), he had not visible signs of failure other than 148,000 miles on them. He replaced the CV, the outer tie rod, and both the right and left lower and upper ball joints. Then he got an alignment and was good to go. I know that does nothing to help the fender, but at least it gets your 4runner rolling.
I love MT. My cousin worked for Moonlight Basin in Big Sky setting off controlled charges for the ski lodge so all the rich ski posers could ski without incident. I was in Big Sky for half the year in 05, camping at the Greek Creek off 191, and really exploring the Gallatin Forest. I worked at the Ace Hardware at the corner of 191 and 64. I never made it to Billings, just to Big Timber once. Ode to be there again.....
Each state is different with inspections. NC requires them (where I live) have rather laid back inspections. VA is all buisness when it comes to them. SC, where I went to college and my parents live, did away with them in 96.
When my friend's went out on him last year rolling out his driveway (lucky), he had not visible signs of failure other than 148,000 miles on them. He replaced the CV, the outer tie rod, and both the right and left lower and upper ball joints. Then he got an alignment and was good to go. I know that does nothing to help the fender, but at least it gets your 4runner rolling.
I love MT. My cousin worked for Moonlight Basin in Big Sky setting off controlled charges for the ski lodge so all the rich ski posers could ski without incident. I was in Big Sky for half the year in 05, camping at the Greek Creek off 191, and really exploring the Gallatin Forest. I worked at the Ace Hardware at the corner of 191 and 64. I never made it to Billings, just to Big Timber once. Ode to be there again.....
#18
Here's this post...
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthrea...ve+tony&page=2
My sincere advice though.. Pull the knuckle completely. Take the CV out, pull the brake lines.. Take the things to a shop that does ball joints. They should charge you about 40-60 bucks to press out and in the upper ball joints. The lowers are a cinch, just need the 2 jaw puller.
I tried to do it like the write up above and failed. I could do the lowers just fine but when it came to pressing in the uppers I was over my head.
What proof do you have of this ?
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthrea...ve+tony&page=2
My sincere advice though.. Pull the knuckle completely. Take the CV out, pull the brake lines.. Take the things to a shop that does ball joints. They should charge you about 40-60 bucks to press out and in the upper ball joints. The lowers are a cinch, just need the 2 jaw puller.
I tried to do it like the write up above and failed. I could do the lowers just fine but when it came to pressing in the uppers I was over my head.