I was told its from a 91. I don't know anything else about it. Figure I'll take it apart and measure resistance on the tac to find out if it was 3.0 or 2.4. It is a Yazaki rather than a Denso

 

just wanted to add more to this thread, just did the swap and i wanted the ability to adjust the tach without having to take it all apart again..simple solution just relocated the pot so i can adjust it outside the gauge cluster

the white circle thing is the adjustment(pot)



using the de-solder copper braid(in the pic) remove the pot



get yourself some copper clad prototype board and re-solder it to the small piece of board





Its important to keep your wires orientated as they were so it still works, obviously Solder your wires to the original locations of the circuit board




Now just solder your wires to their corresponding terminals of the pot on the new circuit board





Here it is all put back nicely, I just punched a hole to get the wires through..Now i just gotta find a place to mount the pot when i get the new cluster in my truck

 

Here is my cluster lit at night, its a little too bright! lol...gotta put it on the dimmer or add some resistors to dim it down some..camera couldnt pick it up clear no matter what i did but you get the idea

 

Damn that's bright!!!

I already have an sr5 but I want to update to the newer look anyway....plus the clear cover over the gauges is cracked and I'm tired of looking at it.

 

So, I just pulled out my cluster so I can replace some of the lights (my check engine light was broken.)

I could barely get my hand behind the cluster for removal and I'm worried I won't be able to hook it up. What are people doing in terms of connecting the cables to the instrument cluster? Is there a preferred order, as in starting on one side or the other? or one cable over the other. FYI, I have a cable driven speedo...

 

this was the biggest pain in the ass for me... I've got a 3" body lift which means my cable is effectively "shorter" than stock

I probably spent an hour cramming my hand behind the cluster trying to get that stupid thing hooked up.

Finally I decided to remove the center vent assembly and the ducting that goes with it.. with that removed I was able to get my arm in behind the cluster while the cluster was nearly in it's final bolted position... it was still a pain in the ass but I don't think I would have been able to get it done otherwise.

make sure you put lots of grease on the cable... all the struggling I did with mine and most of the grease came off before I got it bolted back up, now the thing squeals when it's cold... not very fun, at some point I'll probably tear it back apart to re-grease it but it's not something I'm looking forward to.

 

I've done this mod to my truck and i love it! I could have sworn that when my tank was low there was a bright orange light that informed me of it. The other day I was finally brave enough to try and run it until the light came on again and unfortunately I ran out of gas. Was I imagining this little orange light or could I possibly have a blown bulb? Please someone tell me I'm not crazy...

 

There is one on both of my trucks (they both have factory installed "SR5" gauge clusters). It's a small rectangular light near the empty mark of the fuel gauge but it turns on when the fuel level is very low on my 1993 and it doesn't seem to work on my 1990 (I even drained the tank with the fuel pump once to remove the tank and the light was still not on when the tank was empty).

 

briholt.. I seen your question on the SR5 swap. I recall working from right to left to hook up all of the cabling. Im just putting this out for others, but it makes it alot easier to get under the truck and loosen the clips that hold the speedo cable underneath and that will give you some slack to pull the cluster further out to access the cables and especially the speedo cable. Im not sure about the electrical speedo cables.

One problem I had was when I was removing the oil pressure switch for the oil light, is when I was wrenching it off, it felt as it was turning fine, but broke off leaving the threads in the block. I then tried to use an Easy out to remove what was left of the sending unit. I used the reverse spiral Easy out. Those are made of a harder metal and harder metal is brittle. It broke on me. DONT use those type use the one that have a square tip on them. If this does happen, I had a welder friend of mine to basically weld a nut with a washer behind the nut to shield the weld from the block and then twisted the old sending unit out. I hope this helps others that may try this upgrade. Other than the broken sending unit, I have done this twice and it is well worth it. There are 2 types of sending unit, the guage unit is quite larger then the idiot light.

 

I've been searching for hours trying to find a SR5 cluster for my '91 5spd 4x4 (cable driven speedo). Anyone know where i can get one. My local junkyard is fresh out, but i've been keeping my eyes peeled for one to come up for awhile.

any tips are appreciated

 

You can try yotayard.com its a yard here in Denver that stocks all Toyota parts. I think that he might ship it to you!

 

There are a few for sale on ebay right now... just search for "SR5 cluster"

 

Thanks man. Thankfully I'm not swapping my cluster, just replacing some bulbs. The check engine light has been out for a year and I need to pull some codes (I think).

So, my oil pressure gauge appears to work just fine

 

I finally found a SR5 cluster from a v6. The only problem is that the gas gauge goes shows the highest fuel reading but wont come down as I drive. Although it would be awesome to have a never ending gas!
I filled up earlier this week and its still showing a full tank and ive driven over 150 miles.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

I just did this swap today, thanks to superbleeder and twistedsymphony! I dont know if this question has been answered or not yet, but i figured it out, and borrowed one of 'bleeders pics to illustrate the how to for anyone who is having this problem. I already had a sunpro tach in my truck before i started, so i had already run a wire from my ignition coil into the cab. If you havent gotten that far, you need to splice a wire into the ground side of the ignition coil. (on my '93 there is a tan and a black wire, the ground is the black wire). then run the other end of the wire either into the 6th position from the left on the blue connector, or attach the wire directly to the screw labeled "P" on the back of the cluster. I had problems with the wire trying to short across other pins so I attached it directly to the screw. Here is the pic I borrowed and circled the pin/screw:

 

not sure the function of that but my mom's has it hers is a '95 v6 automatic however no other ones ive been into have had it (I've pulled the clusters on a '95 v6 5speed two '90's v6 5 speed my '94 22re 5 speed and my dad's '91 22re 5 speed) my only thought is that it could have to do with the later model automatic somehow because I did take one out of a '90 with a v6 and an automatic and it didn't have one..... not sure if this helps at all

 

thanks for the illustration and posting that! certainly will help many folks out

 

Well, got another cluster in from YY today. Right style , but for a 6 cylinder !!!!!! Adjusted the pot to 64.1k ohms and hope thats all it needs. Replacing all bulbs in it also.. going with blue for background. Just hope I got the tach needle back in the right spot when I stuck it back on, tach wouldn't come loose from panel with just loosening screws on back. Took some readings in various spots with my photo tach to compare after I get it in.

 

Well as long as you have something to compare the tach to, you should be good to go, I set mine comparing it against the sunpro Tach I had in there before I did the swap. As far as the needle goes, when I took my cluster apart to scrape the green gunk off the back of the gauges, I thought I had the needle in the right place, until i turned the key on, engine off.... and the needle shot to 3,500 rpm or so. I removed the needle and set it to zero again, this time with the power to the cluster, key on engine off, and it worked perfect from then on!

 

Yep, just going to hook it up before I mount everything and put the lens cover back in. Which side of town are you on ?