Looks like were going through the same thing today. When you say the tach doesn't work, what does it do? Does it just sit there or does it jump up and stay at a certain rpm?

Jason

 

Hi Jason

Its not moving at all. I took it off of a wrecked 1994 4WD with electronic speedo. I wondering if I need to calibrate tach? Unfortunately, its doing nothing. I was cleaning the plastic lens and the tach pointer (arm)_was moved. I wonder if I broke it? Im not sure at this point kinda confused

 

Im in the same boat with you. I cant find anything on a newer tach jumper wire??

 

The first thing that comes to mind is the fact that most 'yota gauges have illuminated needles (for speedo/tach, at least). I guess if you went easy on the paint you could avoid overly-darkening the needle during night operation.

Other than that, yeah, excellent idea.

 

This has been a great thread--thanks for posting. I actually have an SR5 truck so I didn't need to do the swap, but I had a hard time finding info on the oil pressure switch.

For those looking for info on an oil pressure switch or oil pressure sending unit, this is the thread with the answers. When searching an auto parts store it is confusing as parts are listed as "with light" or "with gauge" . So the smaller unit with the spade connection tab is for lower trim level Toyotas with idiot lights -- that is why it only cost like $6 to $20. The bigger, fatter oil pressure switch with the button on the end for the wire connection is for the SR5 guage -- and that is why it costs $40 to $60.

I know this has all basically been said above, but I wanted to say it again for the slow people like me--hopefully some of the words I posted will help anyone who couldn't quite figure it out find this thread faster than I did! 8)

 

Rock Auto has the SR5 oil pressure switch for $26 and it is a Beck Arnley brand. Anyone have an opinion on the best brans of oil pressure sending units?

I have seen:
Beck Arnley
Airtex Wells
Original Engine Managment (OEM)
Standard Motor Products

 

Mine was a Beck Arnley that I got from Advance Auto Parts, and I never had issues with it

The first one I bough was their cheaper brand GP Sorenson (I think that's what it's called), and it was bad right out of the box; wasn't put together right somehow... so I took it back and got the better one.

 

So i've done the sr5 guage swap on my 90 dlx extra cab but now notice that the low fuel light doesn't work. From what I have found so far the fuel sending unit in the tank is different between the sr5 and the dlx but the tank itself is the same. So I should be able to put the sr5 sending unit into my tank but my question is the wiring there or will a wire need to be run from the tank to the guage. normally i really wouldn't care so much but my sending unit is broke so I have to by a new one anyway might as well see if I can get this to work. Hopefully someone can enlighten me. Thanks for a great thread.

 

a wire will have to be run, the one with the low fuel light has 3 wires the one without only two. if you do this, make sure you get the level sender and the wire harness as well, so you have the correct connector fitting.

 

I managed to get everything working on my cluster except for the low fuel light. There is no way I am going to drop the tank right now. I'll wait for a situation like you have before I do that. I can live with it for now.

We sure do get bent over at the parts store up here. I got my oil pressure sender from lordco and it cost me $75 after my discount. That's more than double what I paid for the cluster at the wrecker. Geeze..

Jason

 

Well I did the swap today, my tach did not work. Now I have to find out which wire it is and where to run it to the dash.
Phessor

 

I just did the cluster swap into my 94 DLX, I changed the mileage as per the thread instructions. I lined everything up to get the mileage correct at 83k, but when I lined it up with the gear going into the top slot, I have the the last mileage indictator off a bit, it is at the halfway point on the last digit. Maybe I need to set the last digit halfway to get it to lineup, because when it turns to the next digit it's off a bit to the next revolution if that makes sense. It was all lined up at install, til I went down the road, now the last digit turns only to the halfway point, stuck say between 5 and 6 for example. Then on the actual mile mark it stays half way between til the next mile. Not sure if I have to line it up between numbers on the initial setup to get the numbers to lineup correct. It's an electronic speedo.

 

whoever did this gauge swap, after replacing the oil pressure sending unit with the correct one.... must the oil pressure gauge needle sweep all the way to H upon just turning on the ignition? not starting the engine though

 

I don't believe mine does.

 

I don't think so! Are you sure it's the correct one? Once you start the engine, what happens?

I think when it's disconnected, it reads low and if the wire is grounded, it reads high. I'm not sure but I replaced the sending unit in my 1990 and if I recall correctly, the needle stayed at L before I replaced it and the wire wasn't even connected to the faulty sending unit.

If you have a regular oil pressure switch for an oil pressure light (which is a much smaller part), when the pressure is low, the contacts are closed inside the swich and the light comes on, when the oil pressure builds up, the contacts open and the light goes off. If a switch like that is used with an oil pressure gauge, the needle might read high until the oil pressure builds up and read low when the engine is running (I haven't tried it but I'm guessing that's what would happen).

 

no

the needle shouldn't budge until the engine is started and oil pressure builds up


if it does sweep all the way to H when you turn the key, then you either have the wrong sending unit, a faulty sending unit, or the wire going to the sending unit has shorted somewhere and is grounding out

 

the sending unit switch I temporarily installed was a new big one(factory ISUZU), just like the toyota sending unit. But when I turned on the key and saw the gauge needle sweep the spectrum, I never tried to run the engine and just returned the old one.

I will try to do it again and see if somewhere is grounding out.

 

Great thread, keeping it alive...

Picked up a cluster for my rig, anyone know what this thing on the back is?

 

if you unplug the connector going to the sending unit your gauge should sit at 0 pressure... I ran mine disconnected for a week or two because I had the wrong style connector. if it's shorting out then the gauge will move regardless of whether it's plugged in or not.

that's weird... it doesn't look like a factory part either. maybe it's a converter box for the tach?

 

What year cluster is it? I just purchased a cluster with the same piece on the back. It was supposedly taken out of a 95 4runner and is cable driven although I thought they converted them over to electronic in 92.