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Next question lol.
None of my backlighting lights work on my cluster. I have a hard time thinking that EVERY one of my bulbs are bad, but I’m not sure if that’s a common problem on these or should I be looking for something else? If bulbs, can someone point me in the right direction to purchase new ones?
Next question lol.
None of my backlighting lights work on my cluster. I have a hard time thinking that EVERY one of my bulbs are bad, but I’m not sure if that’s a common problem on these or should I be looking for something else? If bulbs, can someone point me in the right direction to purchase new ones?
Check your dimmer switch is plugged in at the back. Mine unplugged when I pulled the dash.
My speedo had been making a racket for years, and finally the speedo stopped working (can hear the cable whipping, but no speed indicated). In anticipation of the ultimate demise, I located an electronic speedo SR5 cluster from a 4Runner with the same SR5/engine/MT, just two years newer than my 91.
Two problems: I discovered that, contrary to statements in other threads, this truck is not equipped with the VSS. Thanks to twistedsymphony for his research. I have ordered the Marlin sender and have the replacement wire installed.
Second problem: With the ingition key on and engine not running, the tach indicates about 3500 RPM. When the engine starts, the tack follows engine speed. The needle is only at zero when power is off.
Has anyone seen this issue and any solutions?
thanks
G’day mate, can’t help with the taco prob I’m afraid. I was hopping you could tell me how you wired the vss that you installed? Did you just run it to the back of the speedo and attach the wires to the three screws?
my apologies in advance, I searched this thread but couldn't find an exact answer to my question/ current issue
Just completed an SR5 Cluster swap and oil pressure sending unit for my 84 DLX Xtra cab. Everything is working properly, but my Speedo is way off. The needle for the speedo doesn't start to move until the truck is going about 30 mph. What did I do wrong? I've read threads about folks having to adjust the potentiometer to get the tach to work properly, but nothing for the speedo. Anybody experience this after the mod?
P.S. the cluster has only been on the truck for about 12 hours and about 100 miles. I've taken the dash apart and inspected the speedo cable male and female end in relation to the cluster. I drove around with the dash cover portion off (while fiddling with the back of the cluster and speedo connection, but it still displayed the same symptoms and the needle didn't engage until about 30+mph. I posted this on FB and a member mentioned I may need to swap out the gearing for the speedo. Others have mentioned that the cluster will work a bit funky for a couple days and then just randomly corrects itself. Any help would be much appreciated.
I have pretty much the opposite issue as Devildawg. My speedo reads ~25mph faster after the cluster swap. The needle rests where it's supposed to on the 0 mark, and I reused my original odometer assembly. I don't quite understand what changed to make such a drastic effect, but it's really bumming me out. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
The cluster is from a 95 (I think) 4Runner and I've put it into a base 96 T100, cable driven speedos.
EDIT: The clock spring is basically the master adjustment for the speedo. I unknowingly stretched it one way or the other pulling the needle, delicate little bugger. I think that this is likely the case for everyone who experienced a change when swapping clusters. I'm planning on trying to bend it with care (lol) next time I bother to tear into the dash and leave the lens and whatnot off of the cluster while I drive around comparing it with Google Maps speed readout.
Last edited by codyfromidaho; 02-15-2022 at 06:23 PM.
Definitely a lot of helpful stuff on how to do the swap. does anyone here have experience with aftermarket or digital dash installs? I'm not holding my breath, I know the last post in here was a long time ago.
I'm looking at an aftermarket dash (Powertune Digital to be specific I'll include a link below) that has a dash filler option for my 4Runner ('95 SR5 V6) but it asks about some stuff I'm not as familiar with like the ECU type. I'm assuming that's so you can get check engine lights and stuff. I was just wondering if anyone had any helpful info or tips / tricks / warnings, or knew the specifics on what I was gonna have to change or hook up in order to do this swap
The PowerTune requires a CAN bus for it's input data. According to this site: http://www.auterraweb.com/aboutcan.html , Toyota didn't start using the CAN bus until 2005.
I'm pretty sure your '95 still uses the Toyota-proprietary OBD-"1" protocol. There's a lot of information available, but nothing like any modern CAN bus, and at a speed so slow that using it for a dash would be problematic.
So I was able to get a sr5 cluster for 50$ . I have a 86 4runner. I know a guy that tried replacing his oil sender switch and snapped it in the block and tried to drill it out but failed and had to replace the engine. So I tried this morning to remove the switch but it feels really stuck. And I don't want to put too much pressure and have it snap on me inside the block. I sprayed some pb blaster . I though about using my Milwaukee m12 stubby impact but that also scares me. What do you guys suggest?
I also though about just getting an after market warning light setup and hooking it up to my oil warning light switch
and not connecting the oem pigtail back so I don't blow the oil gauge. What are your guys though on this approach? Would it in theory work?
QuickCar Racing Products 61-711 Red Lens Oil Pressure Warning Light Kit https://a.co/d/3cgXHTm
02-09-2016, 10:13 AM
