15,000 mph !!!

 

I wouldn't have been able to get mine working without this piece of advice right here. So thanks a lot for the help. BTW... on mine it was the screw on the left.

 

I read all 7 pages of this post, maybe I skipped something not sure, but can somebody tell me what I need to do to make an SR5 cluster from a '95 Runner V6 Auto work in my '92 Pickup V6 5spd?

I've seen it mentioned but haven't seen exactly what the problem going from Auto to Manual is as far as the gauges. Somebody mentioned the OD off light and the ECT light on the dash of an Auto cluster, but wouldn't they just stay off if I put the cluster on a Manual?

Is there any other issues with going from and Auto to Manual other than these lights, and if so what are they and what are the fixes?

Thanks.

 

My advice is to start a thread in the appropriate forum with your question.

You'll get more attention from those who might know the answer -- the instrument clusters are quite different between 84/85 and 92/95.

 

Yup did that Windsor, what I got was a link to this post, not even sure this post should be in this forum. So I read 7 pages of great information that answered almost all of my questions, except the Auto tranny question.

To be honest it never even occured to me that there would any difference at all...still not sure what difference a tranny would make to a Tach, but I saw it mentioned and just wanted to check before I went and got one out of an Auto truck.

Thanks.

 

i did this swap in my 85 4runner, it was all plug and play. not sure of the fuel yet, just had to clean the tank, it was sitting for two years, also replaced the fuel pump inside, just got it started today. onlky a couple of gallons in there so we will see

 

I recently had to do the opposite, which I haven't seen documented elsewhere on here. I have an 88 5 speed and I just put in an SR5 cluster from an 86 automatic. both V6 trucks. its almost the reverse of the above but it's a little simpler. my truck is EFI so it was pre-wired for the tachometer. otherwise you can run the wire from your coil to the A5 terminal.

connectors and wires are labeled on the dash cluster where they plug in. here are the steps for putting an auto cluster in a dash wired for a manual:

move yellow/black wire from A3 to A2 (oil light/guage)
move purple wire from A5 to A4 (check engine light)
move black wire from A6 to A5 (tach lead)

move yellow/red wire from C5 to C6 (fuel gauge)
move brown wire from C4 to C5 (fuel gauge)

I am not 100% on the fuel gauge wiring because mine didn't work before the swap and still doesn't. the brown wire was brown/black on the auto cluster but i traced everything out on both clusters and they seem to go to the same places. everything else seems to work fine.

 

I have a turbo cluster, unknown year/model. Am I barking up the wrong tree trying to put this into a 85 carbed, auto, truck?

 

I just did this and...

I fried the oil gauge ( oops) , my tach doesnt work, and my fuel gauge doesnt work....

I already read all this stuff about the tach, i took this cluster out of my parts truck, which it worked on, and it didnt have that little green thing on the coil.

Im so confused!?!

I want my gas gauge to work too, any help ?

 

Thank you fot the great write-up.

 

I have an 85 SR5, so in other words it came with that cluster stock. My point is that my temp gauge does that on my truck as well so I think that might be normal.

 

just did my cluster had to run wire for tach but cant get temp to work with new cluster any idea how to fix

 

I bought an SR5 automatic cluster for my manual DLX. So do I do the opposite of what you stated? With just did the plug and play and oil sender unit, the following do not work, fuel gauge, tach, and oil pressure gauge.

 

see my post right above about how to install the gauge cluster from an automatic in a manual vehicle. (specifically, its the wires for the things you mention + check engine light that have to be moved)

 

chnutr, thanks...I have to apologize for not opening my eyes. Your descriptions appears very clear.

 

i used one out of a 87 plug in play ad no need to use a wire for your tach as some people said. i know this post was old but might as well post it so people dont keep asking the same question

 

you fried it becasue you used the wrong oil sending unit get a new gauge cluster

 

Need some help, experts. Did the swap, everything works except for the Tach.

88 truck, 86 cluster. both are 4x4, 5 speed, 4 cyl.

Truck is pre-wired for tach (black wire going into connector A at location 6)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Side note: I've found that it's much easier to attach the speedo cable before plugging in the connectors...

 

Hey Guys,I don't want to seem as i am hy jacking this thread but i read the whole thread start to finish and i kept seeing the tach and oil sending unit questions come up and nothing really had a direct answer for anyone so i figured i would throw in my 2 pennys and some pics on how i did the sr5 cluster swap in my 87...The model of your 84-88 toyota truck plays a huge roll in weather or not your tach is going to work when you just put your cluster in...some were wired from the factory and some were not, i am not sure how to determine that but a real simple way to tell if yours was or wasn't is to take a look at the coil...If your truck was pre wired for the tach from the factory it will not have this plug just hanging right here with nothing plugged into it,



There will be something plugged into it and you will not need to do these tach connections. You can simply throw your new cluster in and your tach will work!

These pics are from my 87 and it was not pre wired for the tach option. My truck is also a carb truck.
Now if your truck was not pre wired for a tach, Don't be fooled it is very easy to do this, it is a 1 wire connection.
Again if your truck was not pre wired from the factory that green single plug with the black wire will not be plugged into anything.

I got my cluster from a 4 cyl truck so the tach being correct is not an issue for me.
from start to finish this is about a 30 min project and well worth the effort i would say!

NOTE! Before you begin this project take a minute to reach into the pass side engine compartment and unplug the factory oil pressure sending unit wire. It is located just below the oil filter on the 20r and 22r and re motors. YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE PLUGGING IN YOUR NEW CLUSTER!
The original oil pressure sending unit used a ground reference signal for the oil ( Idiot ) Light in the stock cluster. The reason i stress doing this first is so that you don't get caught up in the moment of your new fancy cluster and just plug it in and turn the key on FRYING your new cluster! Thats never any fun.

You will need to remove the oil pressure sending unit from the block and replace it with either the one from the donor truck you got your cluster from or you can also buy one from the local parts store for under $30. The sending unit to be removed is the one mentioned before that you unplugged your wire from just below the oil filter. When asking for this at the parts house make sure to let them know the truck is an SR5 and it uses the actual oil pressure gauge in the cluster.

Re install the new oil pressure sending unit and use a little thread sealer on the threads to ensure no leaks. And for god sakes don't over tighten it. The last thing you want is to break the threads off in your block. Just run it in till it is good and snug. You can now slip the wire that unplugged from the original sending unit back onto the new sending unit. And your done with that part!



So to begin, Simply remove your gauge bezel with the screws that retain it to the dash. remember to unplug your clutch disable switch if you have one and set your bezel off to the side. Now you can remove the 4 retaining screws that hold the gauge cluster in.
Once you have done that you will notice the cluster comes free but still feels like something is holding it in place, This is the speedometer cable holding it. Reach behind the cluster and while trying to pry your eyes back there at the same time squeeze the plastic clip that retains the cable to the cluster itself and give it a little tug, it should pop right off. If it doesn't you may need to unbolt the cable holder from the firewall to allow you a inch or so more to pull the cabe out to be able to get to the clip a little easier. Just follow the cable down to the firewall and you will see where it is bolted there by the steering colum.

Once you have your speedo cable off the cluster go ahead and unplug the 3 main harness plugs from the original cluster. Set your old cluster aside but don't toss it! It has lots of good spare bulbs and what not it in haha! I'm a pack rat and like to hang onto that kinda stuff

Now you will need to run a new wire from behind the cluster area out into the engine bay to make your tach connection.
I suggest using a 14 or 16 gauge wire for this. I choose to run my new wire threw the hood latch cable gromet in the firewall next to the brake booster, This worked out great because it is about 6 inches from where your connection is going to be made under the hood.

Once you have your wire ran you can now make your connection under the hood, I used a single Male connector,

The green Plug under the hood has a female connector inside of it


Simply plug your male connector into the green female connector like so




And your done with your tach connection under the hood.

Now on the back of your gauge cluster there is 2 ways to make your tach connection. You can either use the #6 wire that comes out of the stock harness and tap your wire into

Or you can make a direct connection on the screw itself.
the back of your cluster should look something like this


See the 3 screws just below where 1 of the harness plugs plug in?



This is where your going to make your tach connection.
The 3 Screws are labled :

#1 P

#2 IGN +

# 3 some jap symbol lol ( This is The ground - )

You will not need to supply a postive + Or Ground - connection as they will allready be supplied.

However the ( P ) is your tach input signal source.

Use a eye connector on your wire you installed earlier.
Now remove the screw with the ( P ) under it as shown

slide your screw in the eye connector and re install the screw.



And thats it for your tach connection.

Before you go ahead re install the cluster and button everything down take a minute to just plug in the 3 original harness connectors back into the cluster and go ahead and start the truck and verify all your gauges are working correctly. If you have trouble just repeat the steps and make sure your connections are good!

Now is also a good time to take a minute and remove and replace all the dash light bulbs in your new cluster. This will save you the headache of having to do it later down the road when 1 burns out.

You can also get creative with your colors. I choose to buy some amber colored L.E.D. Bulbs from the local parts house. They were a little spendy but they look killer at night time and sooooo bright orange!

The factory syle bulb is part number #194 They are just push in style small bulbs. You dont have to spring for the L.E.D's you can also just get the amber colored 194's or stock white or whatever color they may have in the #194 bulb that you like!

So verifying that everything works you can go ahead and plug your speedo cable back in and re install the cluster and bezel in the opposite order you removed them.

And thats it!


You can now enjoy the perks of a factory syle Gauge cluster with a tach!

I hope that sheds some light on the install of the sr5 cluster into the 2nd gen trucks. If i missed something feel free to add to it.