I just swapped in an SR5 cluster to my '91 truck. I am very particular about my truck, and wanted to keep the odometer setting accurate. Thanks to everyone who has posted information in these threads; there were definitely a few questions answered here. Sorry for the shoddy photography and lack of draw ins- I was in a hurry.

Here's my contribution concerning moving an odometer to a diff. cluster:

Preparing the SR5 cluster to install:
The clear sheild and black surrounds are removed:



The clear shield and black gauge surrounds removed for cleaning: The clear part snaps off of the surrounds, but I noticed it seemed to be held on with adhesive. I super glued it back on in a few spots.



I will now remove the odometer from my cluster, and install it into the SR5 cluster. The first step is removing the speedometer needle- this has been covered in other writeup, so I'll just say that I used the procedures from the writeup. The only additional info I have is this: notice exactly where the speedometer needle sits on the "0" before pulling it. When you replace it, the weight of the needle pulls itself down appx. 1/8". Set it about 1/8" higher and *lightly* press it on. Let it fall and see if you got it right. Once you insert the needle on the spindle, and it falls down to where it was before you removed it, carefully press it on.

Next, remove the two screws on the speedometer faceplate. Carefully remove the speedometer faceplate. Flip the cluster over and remove two gold screws that are diagonal to the speedo cable plug. Remove two silver screws to the right of the speedo cable plug. The odometer is now free:



This is the only difference in the odometer in an SR5 cluster and a standard cluster. There two plastic supports are included on the standard odometer to screw down the speedometer faceplate to. They are located on either side of the speedometer spring mechanism. To put a standard odometer into an SR5 speedometer, you must remove these two plastic supports. The SR5 assembly will not reqire them. I caught them with pliers and yanked them straight off.



My odometer installed in the SR5 cluster, using the same hardware. Press the speedometer needle back on after you replace all the screws.



The dash was dirty as hell, I cleaned it a little bit. Notice the Autometer Tach (with shift light) that has been there for about 8 years, since I put it on in high school.



The SR5 instrument cluster going into my truck:



This is the location of the oil pressure switch next to the oil filter. I will replace it with an oil sending unit. I already have my replacement part, but I will wait until I cange the oil next week.



The finished product- everything works perfectly except the oil pressure gauge that I did not have time to get to today. Speedometer checked with GPS- perfect; tachometer works, other gauges work. All warning lights were tested and came on.



I have been waiting to do this swap for a long time. The only thing I actually liked about my old cluster more was the larger fuel gauge.

 

Today I just swapped the oil pressure switch for an oil sending unit so my oil pressure gauge will work. This process is simplified on the 3.0 by removing the oil filter. As already posted in other writeups, I used a 1 1/16 socket to remove the oil pressure switch that came with the standard cluster. To install the new oil sending unit, I used some blue RTV sealant (because I heard teflon *might* cause grounding problems) and a 15mm wrench. With these tools, the switch is not hard.

 

my donor truck was fuel injected and im carburated. both 4 cylinder. so i replace the oil pressure sending unit. is that all? do i just plug it in and will everthing work? if i have to run new wires which wires go where? thanks.

 

So I just did this swap. Was super easy mechanically... but now I have no turn signals. I click the turn stalk and there's no dash indicators or actual blinkers. Any ideas?

Also, I expected all the idiot lights to turn on momentarily at start-up, but they don't. Is this blown bulbs or is this normal? Brake light bulb isn't blown, but doesn't light on start-up.

 

Turn signals magically started working after I tested the hazards. No idea why, but now you know if you have the same problem...

 

just did mine and i concur, super easy. of course there is one problem for me as well. my temp guage shoots strait to the middle as soon as the key is turned on first start of the day or any time for that matter. time to troubleshoot.

 

oh yeah, this thread is in the wrong section still. ????

 

I just bought an ebay cluster. I have a 1988 22R with carb, 5 speed. The seller said the donor cluster is from a 1988 4Runner, 4 cylinder. Befor I play around with it is there a way to tell for sure if the donor cluster is from a 4 cylinder?

Looks pretty.



Numbers on the top. No clue what they mean.



Looks like the cluster is made by Yazaki.



On the back there is a 6 with a line under it. I hope this does not mean 6 cylinder.



Wrecking yard yellow paint. On ebay the seller said 1988 but this has 1987 written on it. The VIN starts with JT4RN. I think the R in the VIN means it is a 4 cylinder, and if it is a 6 cylinder the R would be a V. But if this is true I do not know if I can trust the writing.



Cover off.



I have a 10 above the tach, not a 19. I do not see 6 cyl next to the 10 - there is nothing next to the 10.

 

I have put a yellow arrow to where I think castrolSi says there are red letters that say 6cyl. My donor cluster has nothing in that location.

 

I put the SR5 ebay cluster in for a test run.

 

Another test run.

I hooked up the tach wire and put in the sender.

Since I'm talking to myself, sure looks like the donor cluster is from a 4 cylinder..

 

The ebay cluster has 4K more miles. I was going to just leave it alone. I did not want to play around with the odometer wheels. So off to the drill press. I think it is going to take a long time.



I did not have the socket for the old sender, so I used a pipe wrench.



The sender I used is a Niehoff OP76021.



The connector for the sender is designed so that it can plug in straight on the original sender, or sideways on the new sender. I was not able to screw the sender in all the way. In fact I'm not sure the old sender was in all the way. But since it is a tapered pipe thread it does not matter. 2 days of driving and no leaks.

 

My original question was how to tell if the ebay cluster was 4 or 6 cylinders.

I pulled all the bulbs and shined a light from behind to see what idiot lights it had. There were T-Belt and Filter icons but there were no bulbs, and I could tell that there had never been bulbs for these 2 icons. I assume these 2 warning lights are used on the V6.

 

t-belt means its from a v6 it looks like its working fine wouldint worry about it to much

 

For anyone who is still looking at this thread.....

I have been driving for a few days. My water temp gauge acts like what I would call a bit strange.

This is a few seconds after I start a cold engine in the morning on my driveway. The rpms are up because the choke is on and the engine is cold. Fast idle. The temp gauge is almost in the middle in a stone cold engine.



I drove for 7 minutes. Stopped at a traffic light, took this picture, and the gauge had moved down to where I would have expected it to be when I started it on the driveway. The rpms are down a bit because the engine has warmed up for 7 minutes.



Then I got on the freeway and drove to work for about 30 minutes. The gauge started moving up and looked like the first picture when the cold start picture was taken, when I arrived at work.

I have never seen a water temp gauge jump up on a cold engine, then down on a warm engine, then move up in a normal fashion as the engine warms up.

Is this way this gauge is supposed to act?

 

Well, I found this:

"Some 1984 pickup trucks and 1983-1984 Celica models, equipped with 22R-E engines, may experience a condition called "temperature gauge overshoot". After starting a cold engine the temperature gauge will indicate a higher than normal engine temperature for a short time just prior to the thermostat opening. After the thermostat opens, the temperature gauge will return to the normal range. A new double valve thermostat has been made available to reduce temperature gauge overshoot."

Here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

That is what my gauge is doing. After I start a cold engine the gauge shoots up, then as the engine warms up after a few minutes it go back to the cold area where it should have been during the cold start.

Only, I have a 1988 pickup with a 22R carb engine. The SR5 cluster from the 1987 4Runner may have been fuel injected. All I know for sure is that this "overshoot" did not happen with my original cluster.

Also, my friend asked me if I needed to change the water temp sensor (like I changed the oil pressure sender) in order to have the SR5 gauge work properly. I did not know because I do not know if Toyota has more than one version of the sensor. Does anyone know?

 

My runner is an SR5 so i have this cluster from the factory, but mine also jumps crazy when i first crank it up. I can flick the glass and sometimes it will go back down to where it is supposed to be.

 

After searching around it seems that the temp gauge is just weird.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=543002

Other than jumping to the middle on a cold engine then back down it works. So I will live with it for the time being.

 

anyone here have any info on what cluster would be best to use on a 84 carb truck?

 

If you have a 4 cylinder then the donor should be a 4 cylinder. If a manual transmission then you need a manual transmission donor - 4 or 5 speed does not matter. It does not matter if the donor is from a fuel injected truck. I do not think the fuel tank size matters.

I think the "Jimmy Carter" 85 mph cluster was around 1980-1985. Then it went up to 110 mph. I do not see how this would matter. Also some of the clusters I saw on ebay had a grid pattern. My original 1988 110 mph cluster did not have this pattern and the 1987 4Runner donor did not. I think the grid pattern was 1984-1986.

I did have to run the tach wire, but this is easy. I did replace the oil pressure switch with an oil pressure sender.

I think your year range is 1984-1988 pickup or 1985-1989 4Runner.