This is a 5vz from a 2000 4runner that I put in my 88 pickup, but the swap is 9 years old, so the issue isn’t from the swap itself.

I put in new plugs (NGK BKR5EKB-11) and ngk wires and after wards it started up, but only had enough power to roll a few feet on flat, and not even slightly uphill. Now it starts and idles, but bogs when giving it throttle. Not enough power to drive at all.

After I took the intake back off and double checked all the plugs and everything seemed good, right location, etc. I searched around online and on here specifically and see the common issues, like pulling a wire loose and things like that, but everything checks out. I inspected every connection and everything and can’t find anything out of pace.

My understanding of it is, the computer sends a signal to the coil telling it when to spark, then the coil sends a signal back to the computer, and then so on and so on, if it’s running properly that is. But if the computer doesn’t receive a signal back from the coil, if for example, the ignition wire was faulty in some way along the way or something, then it won’t continue to signal it to spark. But I don’t find anything that shows a lack of connection. So with these symptoms it seems like it’s something with the ignition system, like wire, connection, etc. and not a faulty computer, or coil or something since this happened on the first start after changing plugs and wires, so it seems like it has to be related to something that happened while I was changing them out, yet I keep checking everything that could have been effected by that and everything looks good…

Anybody have any ideas? Am I missing something obvious to check or am I thinking about this wrong? I’d appreciate any and all ideas about it.

Thanks a bunch

 

Ok, I took it all apart again, and put new wires on, and with it back together it fires up and idles, but even still in neutral, when I give it gas it just boggs. It’s just not getting the spark to use that fuel.

Anybody have any ideas? I really need some help here, Thanks

 

Are the grounds from each head to the firewall, AND the ground wire from the battery to the body sheet metal, in good shape? Both ends nice and clean, no corrosion, etc? They're as important as the power wires, since without good grounds, the plugs can't fire as strongly as they need to, if at all. The heads don't ground through the block, as many think. The head gaskets block the path to ground for the heads, so it's necessary to have a ground wire from each head to a good ground. The firewall, for example. It's just as important to have a good ground from the body metal to the battery. The battery terminals must be clean, once again, no dirt, crud, corrosion and so forth.

Also, it's a good idea to put a small dab of silicone dielectric grease into every electrical connection the you make. Wire to plug, coil to plug, connection to coil, you name it. If you put a female plug onto a male connector, give it dab. It keeps the crud endemic to the inside of an engine compartment out, and helps make a good, solid electrical connection. Also makes the connections much easier to remove at a future date.

I am not saying that IS your trouble, but it well COULD be.
Good fortune to you!
Pat☺

 

Soooooo, it was running absolutely wonderful?? You changed the plugs and now it runs like poo.

If it was in fact good before you did things I would start simple, did you lean on something and pull a connector out? Loosened something? Could it be a defective plug? I don’t know man I would start simple and then get nutty, stare at it retrace your steps and see if anything jumps out at ya

 

Thanks a bunch for both of your replies. Yeah I figured I just didn’t hook something up right so retraced all of that, then figured a pulled a wire loose from the igniter or something, but nope, all of that looks good, that’s why it’s so confusing to me. I repúlele alll the plugs and vacuumed it out real good with a small hose i mande for the shop-vac just in case, but no change with that either. I checked around for grounds, but haven’t found anything that looked bad, but I’ve mostly been looking at things that could have been effected by me swapping out the plugs and wires, since it was running fine before this. I didn’t use any grease on the connectors just cause I don’t have any but figured next trip to town i’d grab some and put in in the plugs n wires n coils anyway.

Still no change 😞

 

Another thought I just had, and I get so few, are you certain you ran the wire from the correct coil to the correct plug? I'd have to check the FSM to be sure of the right order they connect in, but I can if you want. Just let me know. They don't always go where it's obvious, iirc.

Also, did you check the gap of the plugs? They don't always come out of the package at the correct gap. Usually, yes, but not always. Are those the correct plugs?

P1300 is igniter circuit malfunction. Igniter, ignition coil, IGT or IGF open or short between Igniter and ECM, ECM itself. Something in there. I hope that helps a little.

 

Thanks a bunch for your thoughts, yeah I double and triple checked the plug wire routing, at first I kind of assumed I just mixed one of those up, cause that’s kind of how it is acting, but no, they’re all right… so ???

All my grounds seem fine, and I haven’t even touched them in a while, and since this happened on the first start up after changing plugs and wires, it’s gotta be something I bumped or pulled out or put back wrong, or…

But again, I can’t find anything that’s been pulled out, or a wire rubbed through or anything…. am I gonna have to start undoing the wiring harness around the igniter to look for just anything ?

 

Ok, now we need a little more information to help you out. Just exactly what year is the truck? What is the engine? 22re, 5VZfe, etc.
We need this information to look up the right schematics, and so forth. Your help wil be invaluable to allowing us to help you out, if that makes sense.

Notice how most on here put that info into their signature block, so that it always shows up when other people need it to help us with a problem WE have.
Thanks very much.

Let us know
Pat☺

 

Jesus, sorry about that, I usually put all that info right at the beginning of a post, somehow I totally spaced it, my bad. Thanks for the reply and thanks a bunch for pointing that out to me.

It’s a stock 5vze I put in my 88 pickup, but that was almost ten years ago now and almost twenty countries ago haha, so it’s not related to the swap itself.

I still haven’t figured it out, as I haven’t been able to mess with it for the last few days, but back at it now.

Its current status is: It starts right up and idles normally. But if i give it any gas at all, it just bogs, even in neutral. I took a video of it, but couldn’t figure out how to add that here :/

All the plug wires are in the correct place (according to the internet), correct plugs and gaps and correct wires. There are no visible wires worn or pulled out, I don’t know, but I’m still lookin…

Thanks again for pointing out what I left out of the posting

 

I thought I should mention, after giving it throttle, the plugs on bank one (passenger side) are wet when I take them out, does that help anybody with any ideas???

 

OK, THAT is relatively significant. It means that either the plugs on that side aren't firing, or are firing weakly, OR that those injectors are staying open too long dumping extra fuel into those cylinders. Do you get a strong smell of fuel out the exhaust when you goose it?
BTW, a good way to check whether the plugs are getting a "fire" pulse is to place a inductive pickup from a timing light onto whatever it is that commands those plugs to fire. The light flashes, the plug should fire. It sounds like maybe those plugs aren't getting a fire now pulse but I'm not sure. My problem is that I have a 99 4Runner, with a 5VZFE, and, maybe I'm mistaken on this, but I believe mine fires the plugs by the ECU sending a pulse to the coil. I just read the FSM, and I'm wrong. The ECU sends to the Ignitor, which sends to the coil. I apologize on that one.
Also, again I may be wrong on this, but each coil fires 2 plugs. That's why the plug wire for the driver's side plugs come out of the passenger side coils. Now, the coil fires once, once down the main output, and once out the wire going to the other plug, and the timing for both sides is the same.
A thought to isolate the situation, especially if you're going to be digging in, again: move a plug side-to-side. IOW, move, for example, plug one over to the the plug 4 slot, and see if the same thing happens, either to plug 1 or if it moves over to plug 4. Instant diagnostic, although I'm betting that it's an injector problem. More specifically, an injector control problem. IOW, whatever is firing that side's injectors is perhaps holding them open too long. Do you have an OBDII reader? That would make your life much easier.

Some things to check, though: Is the PCV valve in good shape? What about it's vacuum line? Can you measure the ECU injector terminals with your multimeter? I would also check the injector connectors, like the ground for the injectors staying open too long. I'm not exactly sure where it IS but if it's one inside the cabin, you may have missed it.

That's all I've got so far, but I'll keep looking...
Pat☺

 

Thanks a bunch for all that, it’s a bunch to responde to, but for starters, yes I have an OBD II reader, and what’s weird is, it’s not throwing any codes right now. It starts just fine, and idles fine, but bigs when giving it gas, it feels like the plug wires are in the wrong place, or the timing is totally off, but that’s not the case. And again, this happened all at once, from the first start up after changing the plugs and wires. It didn’t start doing this a little bit and get worse over time to be bad enough to not drive. It had been driving fine, I stopped the truck, changed out the plugs and wires, and when I started it back up this has been the situation. So while it could be something else and unrelated, I feel like it’s a 99% chance I messed something up doing that, or put something back together wrong? (though I don’t know how that’d be possible). Which is why I don’t feel like it’s the injectors, also I re-did the injectors about a year ago.

I could try to move a plug to a different cylinder in the morning, but I’m not sure I understand what that would do. I re-checked the gaping on the plugs, and even put all the old plugs back in to make sure, and still no change.

How can I check the coils without buying new ones? It doesn’t seem like that would be the issue, and since each coil sends a signal to two plugs, one in each bank, why would the plugs on bank one be wet but the plugs on bank two seem normal? In the morning I’ll try it again and inspect the plugs more precisely.

From what I’ve read of other peoples issues similar to this, I would expect I pulled a wire out of the igniter, the symptoms seem to say that’s the problem, but I cant find any wires in there that don’t look good, and while it was running I tried pressing on and wiggling wires there and at the coil connectors, while turning the throttle but I couldn’t get it to act differently at all while doing that.

Thanks again for all your thoughts on this, I really do appreciate it. I’ll try what I can from this in the morning and see what happens.