Casey7762

Hello All,

New guy here...

I am looking for some pointers on what may be wrong with my 22RE. Truck is a 92 4WD Ext. cab SR5 5-speed with 318K miles. It has a 94 22RE swapped in with about 250K on it.

When I did the swap I went ahead and did a timing chain kit from Engine Builder, this was in 2016. The truck has not run right since the swap. Going on 7 years. I work on it when I have the time and extra cash. With that being said I have been searching these forums for the past seven years. You guys have taught me a TON about 22RE issues! And I thank you for that, from the bottom of my Toyota loving heart.

The issue I have is a rich running condition and a bad lag and stutter on a quick change in the accelerator position. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot/cold etc. It will idle smooth all day. I have noticed that when I quickly blip the throttle the timing doesn't advance. It hangs out around 12 degrees, jumping above and below erratically, then it finally "catches up" and advances to somewhere around 30-40 degrees (just a guess based on the timing mark location) and sounds like it should. When I ever so slowly change the accelerator position engine speed increases smoothly. I listened to the injector pulse when the problem is occurring and it slows waaaay down on all 4. I checked the voltage on VF1 in the check connector, it is .86 volts. The truck has no CEL codes. The only other issue the truck has, which I feel is unrelated is that it eats up water pump/alternator belts.

Here's a rundown on what I have done:
Timing chain, water pump, oil pump from Engine Builder
Adjusted valves cold to .007" and .011" per 22RE Performance specs
Set timing with jumper to 5 degrees base and it advances to 12 degrees with jumper removed.
Adjusted TPS to FSM. Tried a second TPS and adjusted. No change.
Verified AFM per FSM. I had one that had some high resistance readings, changed it to another used one. No change in the issues. Opened up the old AFM and cleaned, got it in spec. Put it back in, made some adjustments to the clockwheel. Still no good.
Changed the O2 sensor because it was throwing a code. Replaced with a Denso from Rock Auto.
Then had to repair the wiring to the O2 sensor because it was burned up.
Replaced the ECT with a used one that tested good. No change.
Ending up looking at the ECT again a few years later and broke it. Replaced with a non-OEM but it tests good as well. No change.
Changed the cold start injector time switch with a used OEM because it died.
Changed the circuit opening relay because it died as well.
After letting the truck sit for a year or so and coming back to it I had codes for AFM, TPS, ECT, maybe a few more. Tracked this down to an issue with the E2 pin on the ECU. Had to open up the ECU and found a broken trace. Repaired. No more codes.
New fuel filter
New distributor cap and rotor OEM
New plug wires OEM
New plugs Denso
Checked fuel pressure, its steady at about 38psi. Doesn't change on vacuum increase/decrease so that tells me my FPR is probably bad but I have read that guys have run with bad ones no problem. Pressure only drops by a couple PSI when I open the dump valve on my gauge. Based on this I think I have plenty of flow and pressure.
Tried a different ignition coil. No change. Went back to OEM.
Did an IAC delete. This did help a little.It made it driveable. Since then I have put it back on and now it is not driveable once again.
New radiator
EGR and PAIR delete recently in hopes to make this problem easier to diagnose.
4 new ebay fuel injectors. Don't bash me on this. If I can get this truck fixed I will get my OEM's repaired.
Verified cam and crank timing.

I posted some videos on Youtube to try and highlight the issue. They put it in their crappy short format ruining the quality. One highlights the issue while a vacuum gauge is connected The other tries to show the timing marks while the problem is happening but the quality is so bad it's hard to see unless you are on a PC browser . Sorry, I don't know where else to upload them.

I am looking for some guidance on what to check next. Should I focus on mechanical, since it hasn't run right since I swapped engines and did timing chain? Should I focus on electrical, although I feel I have checked everything? I am at my wits end and don't know where to go from here...

I am thinking about buying a TPS and just throwing another part at this thing.

If anyone in Western North Carolina or East Tennessee is reading this and would be willing to loan out an ECU or TPS to help me identify this problem it would be greatly appreciated. I'm about an hour from Asheville and about an hour from Johnson City.

ECU P/N ends with 35630
TPS P/N ends with 12040

Thanks for reading. Looking forward to hearing back from the gurus here at YOTATECH!

84sr5yoty

You didn't let it idle long enough for an accurate vacuum reading, but it looks pretty low. What's your altitude?
I would be checking for vacuum leaks. Also, a low vacuum reading that stumbles and hesitates can be a restricted exhaust. Check for a pinched exhaust pipe. Also, bang on the muffler and cat to see if they're internally failing. It may be worth temporarily unhooking the exhaust to see if it runs better or not.

Have you replaced the usual tune up items? Plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor? Verified the firing order is correct? Checked that all grounds are hooked up, especially for the fuel injection system? Ohm out the signal generator for kicks. How did you bypass the EGR system?

Jimkola

Before you buy a TPS, try the method I’ve posted several times on using a timing light. It’s infinitely better than the FSM method. Even the Toyota Factory field specialists preferred it.
Is the distributer bolt locking fairly well centered in the elongated slot, or is it kicked to one side?

can I assume your ignition parts are Denso or NGK? Cap, rotor, plugs, wires?

ECU is almost never the issue. I’d say they’re bullet-proof, but that’s a stretch. A bullet would clearly kill it. But other than that, about the only thing that could hurt that ECU is water or someone accidentally back feeding power through it. But you can easily remove the ECU, pop the lid and inspect the circuit board. If it has an issue you’ll usually see/smell it.

87-4runner

Set base timing first

1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.

2. With a jumper wire connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.

3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere.)Tighten distributer adjusting bolt.

4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.

5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just loose enough so you can rotate the TPS.(fwiw I just pull throttle body to do this)

6. Restart the vehicle and double ckheck timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (If not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise)

Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment

7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should see the timing mark suddenly advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the top TPS screw. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot. Go ahead and shut down engine and finish tightening the bottom TPS screw.,

What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.

8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.

Jimkola

if the distributer adjusting bolt is significantly off to either side, and not fairly centered in the slot, that's a big clue. Same with the TPS.
With the distributer adjustment you could have a chain or distributer off a tooth. If the TPS is off to the side then using the timing light method to set could fix that.

de67ville

I have done everything the poster mentioned and I'm stumped. Did you try to time and adjust the tps with a timing light mentioned above? Or did you find the problem elsewhere. If you did could you help me out. I'm gonna try to the tps and timing light way tomorrow.