Weber 32/36 question
#1
Weber 32/36 question
Hey folks,
I just installed a weber 32/36 this past weekend. Went fairly smooth, but I've been pondering over a few loose ends.
First; The Vacuume line leading from the charcoal canister to the (old) stock carb, What am i to do with that line? I've tried reseaching this with mixed opinions. Am i ok to leave it dangling or 'open'? Can it be capped off? I read the fuel tank needs to breath ect.
And second, I am not certain my electric choke is fully functioning, or functioning at all. It does open and rev high on a cold start, but does not kick down on its own as the engine reaches a higher temp. It's only until i tap the gas will it drop the rmp's. I removed the old electronic choke wiring harness from the stock carb. crimped an end on the "black" wire and plugged it in. I've tried both the red and black wire but it appears to be the same. The old carb had the black wire leading to what i believe is a solenoid. But the webber only got the single end for a wire.
If only can point me in the right direction that would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I just installed a weber 32/36 this past weekend. Went fairly smooth, but I've been pondering over a few loose ends.
First; The Vacuume line leading from the charcoal canister to the (old) stock carb, What am i to do with that line? I've tried reseaching this with mixed opinions. Am i ok to leave it dangling or 'open'? Can it be capped off? I read the fuel tank needs to breath ect.
And second, I am not certain my electric choke is fully functioning, or functioning at all. It does open and rev high on a cold start, but does not kick down on its own as the engine reaches a higher temp. It's only until i tap the gas will it drop the rmp's. I removed the old electronic choke wiring harness from the stock carb. crimped an end on the "black" wire and plugged it in. I've tried both the red and black wire but it appears to be the same. The old carb had the black wire leading to what i believe is a solenoid. But the webber only got the single end for a wire.
If only can point me in the right direction that would be appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
Registered User
I capped the port in the canister, not 100% sure that was the way to go. Choke should have switched 12V power source I believe. Mine never opens up until I tap the gas either. I had problems with dieseling until I installed an idle shut-off solenoid, which also uses 12V. '85 22R, originally with CA emissions system.
#3
hmm ok.
I had it capped, but removed it because i wasn't sure it that would effect the fuel tank breathability.
Is it possible to use the stock carb solenoid? I might have to go buy a multi metre and verify my wiring. Im not good with wiring though.
I'd assume if the choke was functioning properly, a tap on the gas "pre" ignition would set the butterflys, and the electronic coil would sense the heat allowing the mechanism to slowly drop the high idle down to normal idle operation.
Thats my understanding at least, correct me if I'm wrong.
I had it capped, but removed it because i wasn't sure it that would effect the fuel tank breathability.
Is it possible to use the stock carb solenoid? I might have to go buy a multi metre and verify my wiring. Im not good with wiring though.
I'd assume if the choke was functioning properly, a tap on the gas "pre" ignition would set the butterflys, and the electronic coil would sense the heat allowing the mechanism to slowly drop the high idle down to normal idle operation.
Thats my understanding at least, correct me if I'm wrong.
#4
Registered User
The charcoal canister is vented through the bottom & usually has a short length of hose attached to it, going into a hole in the frame. If the tank ever develops pressure, it will vent to the canister, the activated charcoal will trap the fuel vapors, & the excess pressure will vent out the bottom of the canister (in theory). Capping off the fuel vapor return port on top of the canister shouldn't hurt anything. Some guy install a breather filter on the line to the port but it's not necessary. Most Weber 32/36's do not have the fuel vapor port drilled out so there is no fuel vapor return line like the stock carb had.
#6
Registered User
No, the choke is designed to only drop rpm after you tap the throttle.
It's cold out. You get in and pump it a couple times before cranking. Turn the key, it fires and idles high until warmed up and you're ready to drive away. As soon as you tap the throttle, and the engine is warm, the linkage for the choke releases and the choke stays open.
Sounds to me like it's working as designed.
It's cold out. You get in and pump it a couple times before cranking. Turn the key, it fires and idles high until warmed up and you're ready to drive away. As soon as you tap the throttle, and the engine is warm, the linkage for the choke releases and the choke stays open.
Sounds to me like it's working as designed.
#7
No, the choke is designed to only drop rpm after you tap the throttle.
It's cold out. You get in and pump it a couple times before cranking. Turn the key, it fires and idles high until warmed up and you're ready to drive away. As soon as you tap the throttle, and the engine is warm, the linkage for the choke releases and the choke stays open.
Sounds to me like it's working as designed.
It's cold out. You get in and pump it a couple times before cranking. Turn the key, it fires and idles high until warmed up and you're ready to drive away. As soon as you tap the throttle, and the engine is warm, the linkage for the choke releases and the choke stays open.
Sounds to me like it's working as designed.
I guess I'm only assuming the weber had a mechanism that would kick down from a high idle on its own, like the stock aisen carb. Interesting.
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#8
Hey OldBlueMidnight, are you using a fuel pressure regulator with your Weber? Years ago I had a 20R truck with a Weber with no regulator and it would diesel like a freight train--even run backwards after I shut it off. This was due to the lack of a regulator. When I recently switched my 22R to a Weber I was planning to get a cut-off solenoid but learned about the need for a regulator and discovered, happily, that a solenoid was not necessary.
#9
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New Red Truck
I have a 87 22r with the weber. I recently rebuilt the weber and have installed and I bought a LCE fuel pressure regulator kit. My question is, what regulator did you use and where did you mount it? I am not too concerned but i do want to be sure I mount it safely. It comes with the gauge, should I seal the the threads around the nipple?
I have a 87 22r with the weber. I recently rebuilt the weber and have installed and I bought a LCE fuel pressure regulator kit. My question is, what regulator did you use and where did you mount it? I am not too concerned but i do want to be sure I mount it safely. It comes with the gauge, should I seal the the threads around the nipple?
#11
32 36 electric choke question
Hey guys,
While you guys are dispensing wisdom about the Weber 32 36 electric choke, I need to ask a question: How does it work? I ground the working end and put the wire on the positive terminal, and nothing happens. What is it supposed to do? Also, I notice it's adjustable which changes the settings of the butterflies. How do I set that? Thanks in advance for your wisdom, and I hope I'm not hijacking someone's thread.
While you guys are dispensing wisdom about the Weber 32 36 electric choke, I need to ask a question: How does it work? I ground the working end and put the wire on the positive terminal, and nothing happens. What is it supposed to do? Also, I notice it's adjustable which changes the settings of the butterflies. How do I set that? Thanks in advance for your wisdom, and I hope I'm not hijacking someone's thread.
#12
Registered User
Info on Weber 32/36 choke adjustment is here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...s-help-309127/
I don't know what you mean by "I ground the working end". The carb body grounds through the mounting to the intake manifold, the cylinder head, the engine block, the passenger side engine mount, which is connected to battery negative by either a ground cable or ground strap.
The wire from the choke usually goes to ignition coil positive terminal. Meaning, the choke wire is the "+" or positive side, not the ground. The wire should NOT be connected to battery positive directly. You only want the choke coil powered when the ignition is on.
I don't know what you mean by "I ground the working end". The carb body grounds through the mounting to the intake manifold, the cylinder head, the engine block, the passenger side engine mount, which is connected to battery negative by either a ground cable or ground strap.
The wire from the choke usually goes to ignition coil positive terminal. Meaning, the choke wire is the "+" or positive side, not the ground. The wire should NOT be connected to battery positive directly. You only want the choke coil powered when the ignition is on.
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