How did you remove or bypass your load sensor
#1
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How did you remove or bypass your load sensor
I totally removed mine and used a welded line to plug up the system by the front right wheel on the chassis rail.
The brakes bled out just fine and the pedal feels fantastic but, I want to see what others have done to eliminate the load sensor if any of you would care to show off your skills?
The brakes bled out just fine and the pedal feels fantastic but, I want to see what others have done to eliminate the load sensor if any of you would care to show off your skills?
#2
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Can’t seem to load pics from photobucket.
replaced 3way junction fitting at bracket behind passenger tire. Replaced it with a 2way fitting, welded to bracket. Removed LSPV. Mounted line lock and manual proportion valve to plate mounted to inside of rear passenger side engine bay.
This post shows some of it. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...hanges-295885/
Are you sure welding a bugger to plug a brake line is “skill?” It feels like no to me.
replaced 3way junction fitting at bracket behind passenger tire. Replaced it with a 2way fitting, welded to bracket. Removed LSPV. Mounted line lock and manual proportion valve to plate mounted to inside of rear passenger side engine bay.
This post shows some of it. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...hanges-295885/
Are you sure welding a bugger to plug a brake line is “skill?” It feels like no to me.
Last edited by muddpigg; 10-11-2017 at 08:47 AM.
#4
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I used air pressure to find which line went from the load sensor to the front of the truck and when the peddle was depressed, brake fluid came out of the line that went into the load sensor so you may think I plugged the wrong line but, I have brakes so how can it be wrong?
#5
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So quick lesson... you have 2 brake circuits in your truck; the front brake circuit and the rear brake circuit. Now in many some vehicles say the 2wd truck these to circuits are seperate. But in the 4wd truck/4rnr the are linked together with the LSPV between the 2 circuits. The idea was that as the truck bed was loaded the additional weight would cause the LSPV to allow more brake fluid to pass to rear brakes. When the truck was unloaded the LSPV would restrict some fluid from going to the rear brakes but direct remainder to the front circuit thus increasing pressure in front brake circuit. Most don’ Seem to care for the system.
Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.
So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?
So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.
So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?
So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
So quick lesson... you have 2 brake circuits in your truck; the front brake circuit and the rear brake circuit. Now in many some vehicles say the 2wd truck these to circuits are seperate. But in the 4wd truck/4rnr the are linked together with the LSPV between the 2 circuits. The idea was that as the truck bed was loaded the additional weight would cause the LSPV to allow more brake fluid to pass to rear brakes. When the truck was unloaded the LSPV would restrict some fluid from going to the rear brakes but direct remainder to the front circuit thus increasing pressure in front brake circuit. Most don’ Seem to care for the system.
Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.
So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?
So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
Now you can even check this out yourself. Go to your master cylinder you’ll notice 2 brakelines attached to it. Now one line comes off master cylinder and goes into a 3way junction one side goes to front driver brake the other side of 3way junction is for front passenger brake. Now run those line to the junctions behind rear passenger tire. Do you have one line going strictly to front and one line going strictly to rear? Or do you have one line going to a 2nd 3way junction one going front and one going to rear.
So did you completely remove LSPV so hard line now connects straight to soft line?
So my guess is your old rear brake circuit had trash clogging in line or at LSPV and that caused poor rear brake performance. Or your brake system wasn’t bled properly thus poor rear brake performance (you did breed LSPV last right).
The truck has brakes after my mod and when it works as good or better than it did before, I chalk it up as a success.
#7
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Thread Starter
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
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#8
curious how you thought had better brakes as first....glad you got it worked out
here is what I did with my LSPV (granted this is on my 94 but the concept would be the same on a 1st or 2nd gen) i didn't want to mess with the brake lines
here is what I did with my LSPV (granted this is on my 94 but the concept would be the same on a 1st or 2nd gen) i didn't want to mess with the brake lines
Last edited by dropzone; 10-15-2017 at 05:46 AM.
#9
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Last night I drove the truck around around town here for a half hour scaring the hell out of fools with open car windows because the welded rear axle chirps tires at any direction change, funner n hell.
Anyway, I'm taking the rig to Hungry Valley today for the Bakersfield 4 Wheel Parts customer appreciation day event and will be on the Miller Jeep Trail hopefully going the right direction for a challenging ride.
#10
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So it turns out dude was right, I did unhook the wrong connection and when I went to move the truck the next day, she had no brakes again.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
For years I just zip tied the LSPV arm up to frame. Last summer had some vacation to use and spent it doing multiple projects that had built up on 4rnr. I completely removed LSPV at same time I went disc brakes in rear. So hard to compare performance when multiple things are done at once.
#11
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Thread Starter
Glad you got it figured out!!!!
For years I just zip tied the LSPV arm up to frame. Last summer had some vacation to use and spent it doing multiple projects that had built up on 4rnr. I completely removed LSPV at same time I went disc brakes in rear. So hard to compare performance when multiple things are done at once.
For years I just zip tied the LSPV arm up to frame. Last summer had some vacation to use and spent it doing multiple projects that had built up on 4rnr. I completely removed LSPV at same time I went disc brakes in rear. So hard to compare performance when multiple things are done at once.
#12
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Good time to test adding pics since no more photobucket.
Used cut off wheel to remove 3 way junction from bracket. Then welded a 2 way junction onto bracket. Got this one from a 2wd yota since they didn’t have LSPV.
Manual proportion valve and line lock. Mounted them to a piece of UHMW then mounted to inner fender well. Making the lines saved a small fortune on adaptors. Line lock is used for trail stops since I no longer have a parking brake.
Used cut off wheel to remove 3 way junction from bracket. Then welded a 2 way junction onto bracket. Got this one from a 2wd yota since they didn’t have LSPV.
Manual proportion valve and line lock. Mounted them to a piece of UHMW then mounted to inner fender well. Making the lines saved a small fortune on adaptors. Line lock is used for trail stops since I no longer have a parking brake.
#14
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#16
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I used my brakes today and was real happy with the results of removing the LPSV, Hungry Valley was a blast.
#17
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Down here in the San Fernando Valley old 2wd Toyotas are worked, worked more and then worked even more by scrappers, gardeners and or landscapers, they better have load sensors in them.
I used my brakes today and was real happy with the results of removing the LPSV, Hungry Valley was a blast.
I used my brakes today and was real happy with the results of removing the LPSV, Hungry Valley was a blast.
#18
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Originally Posted by fasterspider
So it turns out dude was right, I did unhook the wrong connection and when I went to move the truck the next day, she had no brakes again.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
I took it apart again and put everything right and now the brakes work as designed, stopping my rig on a dime and leaving ¢.06 change.
#19
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Thread Starter
I had to fight with myself to be honest in front of everyone by coming clean that I was wrong but, common sense dominated. I was doing a job I knew not so my mistakes were honest but, hiding those mistakes on a forum I broadly plastered them wouldn't be right so there you have it, honesty.