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I used a Permatex WIndshield Chip repair kit with rather successful and pleasing results. I don't have a before picture, but I'll post an after pic in a few.
You can barely notice the remains of the chip. At this point it is no different than a small drop of rain.
Now to order TB/H20 service parts... and maybe 13L break upgrades
Last edited by fierohink; 04-06-2017 at 11:59 AM.
Reason: add picture
I finally got around to adding the rear spoiler from the '97. The mounting brackets are attached with nut-serts. 3 per side. Then the spoiler is attached to the pylons. (I probably should have painted it before I installed it. Oh well, it isn't hard to take off.)
I could have done without the "remove every piece of plastic trim in your truck" instructions from Toyota. Plus I need to buy the button clips for the middle field of the headliner over the cargo area. 20 year old plastic clips did not play nicely with my panel tools.
Hab, do either of your rigs have the vacuum selector for 4wd? Mine has been blinking periodically and I don't think it engages when I shift into it. I was trying to see if somebody else had tackled it to get a running order of what to check and where.
I have the vacuum selector for 4x. Haven't had an issue with my 4wd but the previous owner must have as one of the metal lines that run along the top of the front diff probably developed a leak- it was bypassed using a longer piece of hose. There's an actuator just above the cross member by the rack and pinion, and vac lines that run over the top of the diff and up the left inner fender to a valve or switch of some sort and a check valve that runs by the upper intake.
Sorry I don't have more infos for you.
All but finished the sunroof swap. I need to finsih drilling the front grab handles so I can install bigger fasteners and i need to find a better price on the 4 trim clips for the headliner over the cargo area. I'm not paying $8 a piece from Darcar Toyota.
All the plastic has to come off Like nothing happened
Plus the roof works now.
Tundra 13WL 231 brake upgrade installed with a Power Stop KC-2324 kit. The kit includes rebuilt and powder coated calipers, mild performance pads, new hardware, and cross-drilled and slotted rotors. Everything is bled down and buttoned up, but I didn't have time for a test drive or bedding in run. That'll have to wait until tomorrow. Plus I'll add a bunch of obligatory comparison pictures
I used this write-up for guidance and with my factory 16" wheels only needed to cut the dust shield, I did not have to clearance my wheels.
Here is my down and dirty write-up for my Tundra brake swap. Others have done the same and have better pictures. But this is my thread and I'll do what I want!!!! It has BEGUN!!! Old parts. Thank you for your service. The caliper is held on by 2 17mm bolts and a small hard brake line. Be careful!!! Hard brake line. it's delicate and takes a 10mm. Use a flare wrench!!! Test fit the rotor to see if dust cover clearance is an issue. Trimmed dust shield. You have to cut the top and the bottom for caliper clearance, and possibly the inner edge for rotor clearance New shiny parts. I look forward to a long relationship.
There's a whole lot of WOAH hiding back there.
Here are the side-by-side comparison shots of the parts:
After some driving, my impressions are as follows:
I have zero fade and shudder. Whether it's coming down a long hill, or slowing from highway speeds off an exit. These would normally result in a shudder and shimmy in the brakes until everything cooled down. No more.
It also takes more pedal travel to accomplish the same braking as before. This could be a tiny bit of air left after bleeding, which I will repeat to try to eliminate. Or the pistons in the caliper may be larger which would require more fluid movement to get the same puck travel. Sadly I didn't measure the two calipers before installing to compare.
In short, if you haven't done the Tundra 13WL brake swap. Do it!! And do it NOW!!!
I developed a whirring noise in my front end. I thought it was my tires, so I rotated them to no improvement. Then I thought, maybe it's just the new sound from the cross-drilled and slotted rotors. Well I thought that until a clunk started going from forward to reverse that could be felt in the floor pan. Plus the whir is speed dependent. And lastly it started making a crunchy sound when I come to a stop. I jacked the front end and had maybe an 1/8-1/4" of play when rocking the driver's wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock. So I think I have a new wheel bearing in my future.
Here's where the fun comes in. Since I recently upgraded my brakes, everything came apart pretty easily. Caliper, rotor, LBJ is only like 30k miles old, axle not came right off, and then there is the f%$&^%&^ upper ball joint!!!!! The FSM calls for a SST that is either $2k to buy from OTC because it is part of a massive puller press kit, smittybuilt with some scrap steel and a welder, or who knows what.
Then I saw this picture and thought I would try it:
And I thought I would give it a whirl. Hoping that it popped and didn't kill me or take an eye. The puller gets put under A LOT of pressure before the UBJ popped. But it finally did and now I'm on my way to the machine shop to have new bearings pressed out and in.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced on the driver's side. Pushing and pulling the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock has improved the amount of play. I still have some movement and it seems to be the shaft the comes out of the steering rack. The rack itself isn't moving, so I don't think it is the rubber bushings that bolt the rack itself down. I'm not sure if it would be the guide or not?
As Paula Abdul said "2 steps forward and 1 step back"
I've replaced the old style guide, the nut has the external hex. Now if you buy a new Toyota rack it comes with the new style guide, the nut has an internal hex. I don't know if you've read the big thread on the guide, the symptoms you describe are what we witnessed in both the 96 and the 99. Dunno if that's your problem, of course.
Inner and outer tie rods replaced on the driver's side. Pushing and pulling the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock has improved the amount of play. I still have some movement and it seems to be the shaft the comes out of the steering rack. The rack itself isn't moving, so I don't think it is the rubber bushings that bolt the rack itself down. I'm not sure if it would be the guide or not?
As Paula Abdul said "2 steps forward and 1 step back"
Every year or so I loosen the lock collar and slightly snug up the steering rack guide. I've been doing this for at least ten years and it remedies the clunking that comes with mileage...
03-30-2017 | 11:22 AM
