AC tensioner pulley missing
#1
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AC tensioner pulley missing
Went to install a new AC belt since PO removed it. Got under there and saw the tensioner pulley was missing. Can anyone point me in the direction of the part I need to order? It's a 22RE 86 4Runner. I've included a pic since I think there are two different types. And yeah I know I should probably address the oil leak soon.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
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Well I found the one in the above thread (88440-35030) on Amazon but it said it didn't fit my 86. So I ordered 88440-35010 because it said it fit. The one in the other thread was for an 89. Didn't think they would be any different?
Last edited by 881stgen; 05-01-2017 at 07:36 PM.
#5
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I did not test for leaks. I know some people removed the belt to get a little more power out of the 22RE. I am hoping that's the case. It can't hurt to install the pulley and belt again right? There is a guy in town who will convert it to R134 for $250 if everything is working correctly. If the refrigerant is all leaked out then I will do a leak test before recharging it.
#6
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The chance that you have a working a/c system (just missing the belt) is somewhere between .00001% and 0.0% . If you are committed to having working A/C and are willing to replace all the components to get it, then the idler pulley is one of those components and it doesn't hurt to start there. DO make sure the compressor spins freely; if you put a belt on a frozen compressor (a likely failure mode) you'll do a lot of damage to something as soon as you start the engine. (You hope the belt will just break, but with a brand new belt ...)
If you're not so sure you want to commit to paying to replace everything, you could just put a set of gauges on it to see if it's full of refrigerant. If not, the refrigerant went somewhere, and you know you're faced with a tear-down to find the leaks. Or maybe it IS full of refrigerant AND the compressor turns easily AND you can see the compressor clutch move when activated -- in that case, sure, put a belt on it.
#7
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Yeah, right. That's it. You get SO much more power removing the belt AND idler pulley, rather than turn off the a/c.
The chance that you have a working a/c system (just missing the belt) is somewhere between .00001% and 0.0% . If you are committed to having working A/C and are willing to replace all the components to get it, then the idler pulley is one of those components and it doesn't hurt to start there. DO make sure the compressor spins freely; if you put a belt on a frozen compressor (a likely failure mode) you'll do a lot of damage to something as soon as you start the engine. (You hope the belt will just break, but with a brand new belt ...)
If you're not so sure you want to commit to paying to replace everything, you could just put a set of gauges on it to see if it's full of refrigerant. If not, the refrigerant went somewhere, and you know you're faced with a tear-down to find the leaks. Or maybe it IS full of refrigerant AND the compressor turns easily AND you can see the compressor clutch move when activated -- in that case, sure, put a belt on it.
The chance that you have a working a/c system (just missing the belt) is somewhere between .00001% and 0.0% . If you are committed to having working A/C and are willing to replace all the components to get it, then the idler pulley is one of those components and it doesn't hurt to start there. DO make sure the compressor spins freely; if you put a belt on a frozen compressor (a likely failure mode) you'll do a lot of damage to something as soon as you start the engine. (You hope the belt will just break, but with a brand new belt ...)
If you're not so sure you want to commit to paying to replace everything, you could just put a set of gauges on it to see if it's full of refrigerant. If not, the refrigerant went somewhere, and you know you're faced with a tear-down to find the leaks. Or maybe it IS full of refrigerant AND the compressor turns easily AND you can see the compressor clutch move when activated -- in that case, sure, put a belt on it.
I am already committed to doing all this, which is why I don't mind buying the needed parts. If I need to buy everything else I will. If nothing happens then I will go get it leak tested and converted. I might just buy all new parts anyway, and not mess with trying to get the old stuff working. That being said, the point of this post was about the part number for the tension pulley.
Last edited by 881stgen; 05-02-2017 at 07:21 AM.