Doomys 87 Turbo 4runner Build thread
#241
Possibly in my future... saving here just in case.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...torial-196405/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...toyota-pickup/
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...hp?topic=990.0
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...torial-196405/
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...toyota-pickup/
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...hp?topic=990.0
#242
oh, also, havent made any progress except for resealing the pump and getting the brackets re-installed. The hose i bought for the coolant lines for the turbo were 5/8" and they were supposed to be 3/8"...stupid me. All last week there were severe storms and flooding in my neck of the woods(flatlands? lol) and I havent been able to get out to the shop. Hopefully this weekend. Ive gotten a lot of parts in to get more work done and should be able to make a decent dent in it. We shall see.
#243
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
oh, also, havent made any progress except for resealing the pump and getting the brackets re-installed. The hose i bought for the coolant lines for the turbo were 5/8" and they were supposed to be 3/8"...stupid me. All last week there were severe storms and flooding in my neck of the woods(flatlands? lol) and I havent been able to get out to the shop. Hopefully this weekend. Ive gotten a lot of parts in to get more work done and should be able to make a decent dent in it. We shall see.
#244
bahaha. well, because if my work schedule and where i live, i am ordering it off amazon. so, i have about 4 feet of 5/8" line to spare. and only 2 feet of 3/8". Upside is that the 3/8" is the same blue line for the oil return that came with the LCE kit. So at least everything there will match.
#245
#246
So today we got all of the plugs for the wiring harness and transmission plugged in that go under the intake.
Kept cutting/scratching myself on a damn cut off zip-tie.
We also got the new coolant lines to and from the turbo cut and fitted.
Space is going to post up in a bit with photos and further "to-do's" mechanically speaking.
Found a crack in the dash.... Wasn't happy about that.
Also talking about changing out the steering wheel, eventually, as well as changing out the steering column to get rid of that stupid button lock thing. So yeah... got the attention span of a gnat right now. Forgot what else I was going to say.
Kept cutting/scratching myself on a damn cut off zip-tie.
We also got the new coolant lines to and from the turbo cut and fitted.
Space is going to post up in a bit with photos and further "to-do's" mechanically speaking.
Found a crack in the dash.... Wasn't happy about that.
Also talking about changing out the steering wheel, eventually, as well as changing out the steering column to get rid of that stupid button lock thing. So yeah... got the attention span of a gnat right now. Forgot what else I was going to say.
#247
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
So today we got all of the plugs for the wiring harness and transmission plugged in that go under the intake.
Kept cutting/scratching myself on a damn cut off zip-tie.
We also got the new coolant lines to and from the turbo cut and fitted.
Space is going to post up in a bit with photos and further "to-do's" mechanically speaking.
Found a crack in the dash.... Wasn't happy about that.
Also talking about changing out the steering wheel, eventually, as well as changing out the steering column to get rid of that stupid button lock thing. So yeah... got the attention span of a gnat right now. Forgot what else I was going to say.
Kept cutting/scratching myself on a damn cut off zip-tie.
We also got the new coolant lines to and from the turbo cut and fitted.
Space is going to post up in a bit with photos and further "to-do's" mechanically speaking.
Found a crack in the dash.... Wasn't happy about that.
Also talking about changing out the steering wheel, eventually, as well as changing out the steering column to get rid of that stupid button lock thing. So yeah... got the attention span of a gnat right now. Forgot what else I was going to say.
Glad to have an update, been wondering about y'all.
i had to go back and quote ya just so I remembered my comment, blame it(memory lapse) on the kids I do!
I've been thinking of a steering wheel swap, I'd prefer my cruise control on the thumb switchs and my key lock finally rattled loose on a washboard road I have to use it to get my key backlit now which I don't like much. A 2nd gen column also has a more intuitive tilt mechanism.
#248
So, like Doomy said,we got all of the wiring harness that runs under the plenum hooked up could have gone further, but the wiring harness wouldn't cooperate and decided to snap off at the water temp connector. I have about 1/2" of wires hanging out of the clip. Tried to solder it, but our portable soldering iron decided that the batteries needed to corrode. So, on hold yet again waiting for that. The good thing is that I can now get the fuel rail hooked up and get the upper intake inatalled! Then I get to mess with the nastiness of figuring out vacuum lines.
doomy also got the new coolant lines installed from the motor to turbo and from turbo to charge pipe. Will need note to go from charge pipe to radiator, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Just need to put the clamps on the lines and get the oil drain hooked up and tightened and we're good on the exhaust side for now.
On order is a 3" turn down so we don't melt the floor boards when we fire her up for the first time, an exhaust clamp, a low pressure PS hose, and a new soldering iron.
As for the future, we've been discussing things to do to the truck. The dash, we're thinking we will get a dash mat and just cover the crack. Maybe pull the clinometer and put the dash mat then reinstall the clinometer on top? Co_94_PU, nice idea with swapping in a second gen steering column! They shouldn't be too terribly different. Hmmmmm. Need to look into that.
Doomy had smaller hands so she got to plug in the wiring.
Pretty sure toyota took the most infuriating route they could with their wiring.
Coolant line block to turbo in. It's bendy, but it'll work just fine.
Coolant line from turbo to radiator. It's got a more agrees I've bend, but it doesn't have a kink in it, so I'm ok with that.
doomy also got the new coolant lines installed from the motor to turbo and from turbo to charge pipe. Will need note to go from charge pipe to radiator, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Just need to put the clamps on the lines and get the oil drain hooked up and tightened and we're good on the exhaust side for now.
On order is a 3" turn down so we don't melt the floor boards when we fire her up for the first time, an exhaust clamp, a low pressure PS hose, and a new soldering iron.
As for the future, we've been discussing things to do to the truck. The dash, we're thinking we will get a dash mat and just cover the crack. Maybe pull the clinometer and put the dash mat then reinstall the clinometer on top? Co_94_PU, nice idea with swapping in a second gen steering column! They shouldn't be too terribly different. Hmmmmm. Need to look into that.
Doomy had smaller hands so she got to plug in the wiring.
Pretty sure toyota took the most infuriating route they could with their wiring.
Coolant line block to turbo in. It's bendy, but it'll work just fine.
Coolant line from turbo to radiator. It's got a more agrees I've bend, but it doesn't have a kink in it, so I'm ok with that.
#249
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Steering wheel and columns
I didn't find exactly what I was looking for but found this post. It indicates no fit issues with the splined shaft, some discrepancy with horn rings.
I'm pretty sure it is doable, swapping a late model sr5 into a first gen, but have not tried and got bored googling. There are likely wiring difference that need handled it's a different style plug setup iirc.
edit/PS I do those wires up via the access panel in the wheel probably not easier either way but I can see them better from below.
I'm pretty sure it is doable, swapping a late model sr5 into a first gen, but have not tried and got bored googling. There are likely wiring difference that need handled it's a different style plug setup iirc.
edit/PS I do those wires up via the access panel in the wheel probably not easier either way but I can see them better from below.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 01-31-2017 at 05:24 AM. Reason: Ps
#251
I didn't find exactly what I was looking for but found this post. It indicates no fit issues with the splined shaft, some discrepancy with horn rings.
I'm pretty sure it is doable, swapping a late model sr5 into a first gen, but have not tried and got bored googling. There are likely wiring difference that need handled it's a different style plug setup iirc.
edit/PS I do those wires up via the access panel in the wheel probably not easier either way but I can see them better from below.
I'm pretty sure it is doable, swapping a late model sr5 into a first gen, but have not tried and got bored googling. There are likely wiring difference that need handled it's a different style plug setup iirc.
edit/PS I do those wires up via the access panel in the wheel probably not easier either way but I can see them better from below.
Beautiful rig you've got! Is that a TG 4" eliminator kit?
#252
Got a bit more done tonight. Fuel system hooked up and injector rail installed. Still need to splice the new pigtails into the harness, and there's a few pig tails for things that I'm not too sure about still.
I believe that the turbo has come off of the truck for the last time. I spent an hour trying to get this damn thing hooked up correctly and, well, it was a saga.
first I pulled the manifold/turbo out and got the clamps on the coolant lines. Reinstalled and realised that I couldn't get the oil line installed. So, went through the wheel well with about 12 feet of extensions and disconnected the oil supply line. Pulled the manifold again and installed the oil line. Reinstalled manifold and then spent 15 minutes fighting the braided steel line to go in the right angel to get it bolted up. Finally jacked up the truck and just took the drivers side wheel off. This only helped marginally. Fought and fought and fought and cut up my forearm, but I finally got it bolted in. Then I realised that the oil return line wasn't seated...this thing is the biggest pain in the ass EVER. Suffice it to say, doing this by myself wasn't easy and that damn thing WILL NOT be coming out again. Ever.
Moral of the story is that all I have to do on the drivers side of the motor is install the down pipe and install the PS Pump and low pressure line. Drivers side need the wiring sorted and upper intake installed. Then on to vaccuum, radiator, belts, spark plug wires, double checking bolts and adding fluids. Phew...seems like a lot on paper, but I'm soooooo close.
Fuel rail hooked up.
No clue where the blue plug or the round plug go to.
Clamps installed.
That stupid oil feed line.
That stupid oil return line.
All hooked up. I think I'll need a shield for the return coolant line because it rubs on the steering shaft. Any ideas here?
Here she sits until next time.
I believe that the turbo has come off of the truck for the last time. I spent an hour trying to get this damn thing hooked up correctly and, well, it was a saga.
first I pulled the manifold/turbo out and got the clamps on the coolant lines. Reinstalled and realised that I couldn't get the oil line installed. So, went through the wheel well with about 12 feet of extensions and disconnected the oil supply line. Pulled the manifold again and installed the oil line. Reinstalled manifold and then spent 15 minutes fighting the braided steel line to go in the right angel to get it bolted up. Finally jacked up the truck and just took the drivers side wheel off. This only helped marginally. Fought and fought and fought and cut up my forearm, but I finally got it bolted in. Then I realised that the oil return line wasn't seated...this thing is the biggest pain in the ass EVER. Suffice it to say, doing this by myself wasn't easy and that damn thing WILL NOT be coming out again. Ever.
Moral of the story is that all I have to do on the drivers side of the motor is install the down pipe and install the PS Pump and low pressure line. Drivers side need the wiring sorted and upper intake installed. Then on to vaccuum, radiator, belts, spark plug wires, double checking bolts and adding fluids. Phew...seems like a lot on paper, but I'm soooooo close.
Fuel rail hooked up.
No clue where the blue plug or the round plug go to.
Clamps installed.
That stupid oil feed line.
That stupid oil return line.
All hooked up. I think I'll need a shield for the return coolant line because it rubs on the steering shaft. Any ideas here?
Here she sits until next time.
#253
Contributing Member
Nice work, Doomy. I get the kid to do my tight handspace work. It's really looking pretty.
Don't know about your clinometer, on mine there is not enough room between the windshield and top of the clinometer to raise it at all, especially the height the dashmat would introduce, without compromising the windshield defrost airflow. Mine is pretty tight clearance, though.
Don't know about your clinometer, on mine there is not enough room between the windshield and top of the clinometer to raise it at all, especially the height the dashmat would introduce, without compromising the windshield defrost airflow. Mine is pretty tight clearance, though.
#254
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Grab an umbrella my friends, for I'm about to rain on the parade
Then I realised that the oil return line wasn't seated...this thing is the biggest pain in the ass EVER.
*Thunder boom*
Take shelter!
You have a different setup but I'm pretty sure your not going to be happy.
That downpipe elbow isn't going on, almost certainly it's going to bind up between the heater hoses and the studs. To get mine on I drop it in from the top and wedge it against the steering shaft so it doesn't fall lower, then I have to attack it via the wheel well to get it rotated around to face generally the right way, then it's back up top again prying the heater pipes to get it to the right orientation, finally I have to wedge my hand behind it so mate it with the turbo exhaust outlet. Now contort my shoulders to hold it in place while inserting the bolt in the top outer corner, a few threads to hold it. Then I take a break and clean up any bloody gashes before having to wiggle and shimmy the downpipe around while inserting the other bolts.
My OEM ct20 sits closer to the block and gives more clearance to the outside but it still needs to go in with the downpipe attached and it won't wiggle around the exhaust manifold so needs that attached also. Nice and heavy when that's all bolted together, last time I considered pulling the hood so I could use the crane..
Bottom line those studs, at the least, on the back of the turbo are probably going to give you some trouble.
..Passenger side
Upper intake is going to interfer, TPS isn't attached and no injector plugs, injectors are supposed to have the wire enter vertically for some reason also but I never did find out why (might not be an issue for us, we have pintle type not double holes)
Might be more showers forth coming I didn't quote so no pictures to go back and double check. I think I'm forgetting something else I saw.
#255
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Nice work, Doomy. I get the kid to do my tight handspace work. It's really looking pretty.
Don't know about your clinometer, on mine there is not enough room between the windshield and top of the clinometer to raise it at all, especially the height the dashmat would introduce, without compromising the windshield defrost airflow. Mine is pretty tight clearance, though.
Don't know about your clinometer, on mine there is not enough room between the windshield and top of the clinometer to raise it at all, especially the height the dashmat would introduce, without compromising the windshield defrost airflow. Mine is pretty tight clearance, though.
There is some room up there but not much. I have my front license plate up there and it's held from rattling with a wad of paper towel. It does interfer with the air flow such that I have to slide it to the far right to keep the drivers view clear when the defrost is on.
I think you can get away with putting the cover under the gauge pod but might need to trim some fluff from the cover. Just be aware it's a tight fit and adjust accordingly.
Re: tight fit. Bahaha wait till you have to try and get the speedo cable off that digital gauge. Its crazy right with no play, so much so it goes back on by just pressing the gauge cluster back up to the mounting holes. I couldn't figure out how I got it out when I put it back, pretty sure I was wedged in tight enough it had to disconnect or I was forever part of the dash.
#256
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Eye of the hurricane, rain fall let's up.
Edited!
missed a photo and some questions, hurrah I can be helpful.
Round male plug is the oxygen sensor, two female round plugs one is shielded it goes to the knock sensor unshielded to the thermostat housing. Blue Spade is the gauge temp sensor located directly below the cold start injector.
The coolant return line will route forward of the intake pipe when it's connected to the hardline, and shouldn't run. Worst case just strap it out of the way, O'Reilly has the pretty steel band straps in the performance section along with the heat shield fabric (odds are they won't know what your asking for or where it is, been here done this ).
Hang tough you ARE almost there!
Edit: sorry I got the add.. I've mentioned before the alternator wires but just in case. Make sure these route below the large coolant line when you put it on, you'll want the extra room to get the elbow on the front of the turbocharger.
missed a photo and some questions, hurrah I can be helpful.
Round male plug is the oxygen sensor, two female round plugs one is shielded it goes to the knock sensor unshielded to the thermostat housing. Blue Spade is the gauge temp sensor located directly below the cold start injector.
The coolant return line will route forward of the intake pipe when it's connected to the hardline, and shouldn't run. Worst case just strap it out of the way, O'Reilly has the pretty steel band straps in the performance section along with the heat shield fabric (odds are they won't know what your asking for or where it is, been here done this ).
Hang tough you ARE almost there!
Edit: sorry I got the add.. I've mentioned before the alternator wires but just in case. Make sure these route below the large coolant line when you put it on, you'll want the extra room to get the elbow on the front of the turbocharger.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 02-01-2017 at 06:00 AM. Reason: A.D.D.
#257
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maryville, TN.
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I honestly don't know but, it has so much other The stuff that I'm thinking it may be except for the rear springs. They are not stock but they do not have the lift like the front's and they used blocks to even it out... Yuk!
#260
Oh man do I feel your pain, mine isn't the pretty hose barb you have either it's a hodgepodge of threaded fittings. My only saving grace is knowing if I need to pull the turbocharger out on the trail or side of the road I have AN fittings and the required cap to plug it off and run without the turbo.
*Thunder boom*
Take shelter!
You have a different setup but I'm pretty sure your not going to be happy.
Well, arent you a little ray of fracking sunshine. Hahaha!
That downpipe elbow isn't going on, almost certainly it's going to bind up between the heater hoses and the studs. To get mine on I drop it in from the top and wedge it against the steering shaft so it doesn't fall lower, then I have to attack it via the wheel well to get it rotated around to face generally the right way, then it's back up top again prying the heater pipes to get it to the right orientation, finally I have to wedge my hand behind it so mate it with the turbo exhaust outlet. Now contort my shoulders to hold it in place while inserting the bolt in the top outer corner, a few threads to hold it. Then I take a break and clean up any bloody gashes before having to wiggle and shimmy the downpipe around while inserting the other bolts.
My OEM ct20 sits closer to the block and gives more clearance to the outside but it still needs to go in with the downpipe attached and it won't wiggle around the exhaust manifold so needs that attached also. Nice and heavy when that's all bolted together, last time I considered pulling the hood so I could use the crane..
Bottom line those studs, at the least, on the back of the turbo are probably going to give you some trouble.
I think ill be ok. While the down pipe is larger diameter, it is much shorter and i think ill be able to feed it up from the bottom. Thats how i got the old exhaust out. Time will tell.
..Passenger side
Upper intake is going to interfer, TPS isn't attached and no injector plugs, injectors are supposed to have the wire enter vertically for some reason also but I never did find out why (might not be an issue for us, we have pintle type not double holes)
Intake was just set up there because i was sick of looking at the wiring harness. nothing is hooked up except 1 coolant line, IIRC.
Might be more showers forth coming I didn't quote so no pictures to go back and double check. I think I'm forgetting something else I saw.
*Thunder boom*
Take shelter!
You have a different setup but I'm pretty sure your not going to be happy.
Well, arent you a little ray of fracking sunshine. Hahaha!
That downpipe elbow isn't going on, almost certainly it's going to bind up between the heater hoses and the studs. To get mine on I drop it in from the top and wedge it against the steering shaft so it doesn't fall lower, then I have to attack it via the wheel well to get it rotated around to face generally the right way, then it's back up top again prying the heater pipes to get it to the right orientation, finally I have to wedge my hand behind it so mate it with the turbo exhaust outlet. Now contort my shoulders to hold it in place while inserting the bolt in the top outer corner, a few threads to hold it. Then I take a break and clean up any bloody gashes before having to wiggle and shimmy the downpipe around while inserting the other bolts.
My OEM ct20 sits closer to the block and gives more clearance to the outside but it still needs to go in with the downpipe attached and it won't wiggle around the exhaust manifold so needs that attached also. Nice and heavy when that's all bolted together, last time I considered pulling the hood so I could use the crane..
Bottom line those studs, at the least, on the back of the turbo are probably going to give you some trouble.
I think ill be ok. While the down pipe is larger diameter, it is much shorter and i think ill be able to feed it up from the bottom. Thats how i got the old exhaust out. Time will tell.
..Passenger side
Upper intake is going to interfer, TPS isn't attached and no injector plugs, injectors are supposed to have the wire enter vertically for some reason also but I never did find out why (might not be an issue for us, we have pintle type not double holes)
Intake was just set up there because i was sick of looking at the wiring harness. nothing is hooked up except 1 coolant line, IIRC.
Might be more showers forth coming I didn't quote so no pictures to go back and double check. I think I'm forgetting something else I saw.
Good catch!
There is some room up there but not much. I have my front license plate up there and it's held from rattling with a wad of paper towel. It does interfer with the air flow such that I have to slide it to the far right to keep the drivers view clear when the defrost is on.
I think you can get away with putting the cover under the gauge pod but might need to trim some fluff from the cover. Just be aware it's a tight fit and adjust accordingly.
Re: tight fit. Bahaha wait till you have to try and get the speedo cable off that digital gauge. Its crazy right with no play, so much so it goes back on by just pressing the gauge cluster back up to the mounting holes. I couldn't figure out how I got it out when I put it back, pretty sure I was wedged in tight enough it had to disconnect or I was forever part of the dash.
There is some room up there but not much. I have my front license plate up there and it's held from rattling with a wad of paper towel. It does interfer with the air flow such that I have to slide it to the far right to keep the drivers view clear when the defrost is on.
I think you can get away with putting the cover under the gauge pod but might need to trim some fluff from the cover. Just be aware it's a tight fit and adjust accordingly.
Re: tight fit. Bahaha wait till you have to try and get the speedo cable off that digital gauge. Its crazy right with no play, so much so it goes back on by just pressing the gauge cluster back up to the mounting holes. I couldn't figure out how I got it out when I put it back, pretty sure I was wedged in tight enough it had to disconnect or I was forever part of the dash.
Edited!
missed a photo and some questions, hurrah I can be helpful.
Round male plug is the oxygen sensor, two female round plugs one is shielded it goes to the knock sensor unshielded to the thermostat housing. Blue Spade is the gauge temp sensor located directly below the cold start injector.
I need to track down the O2 sensor wire because it is MIA from the exhaust. Knock sensor is installed, i broke off the water temp sensor just as i figured out where it goes. thats the one I need to solder back on. as for the home for the blue spade, ill have to take a closer look for it because i didnt see it upon last inspection.
The coolant return line will route forward of the intake pipe when it's connected to the hardline, and shouldn't run. Worst case just strap it out of the way, O'Reilly has the pretty steel band straps in the performance section along with the heat shield fabric (odds are they won't know what your asking for or where it is, been here done this ).
For now, itll be ran like stock. later on down the road when I get a wild hair i have plans to dremel the hardline off the charge pipe and run a single coolant line to the radiator
Hang tough you ARE almost there!
WAHOO!!
Edit: sorry I got the add.. I've mentioned before the alternator wires but just in case. Make sure these route below the large coolant line when you put it on, you'll want the extra room to get the elbow on the front of the turbocharger.
Your eyesight is getting bad, friend! Already took your suggestion and rerouted it. Check again.
missed a photo and some questions, hurrah I can be helpful.
Round male plug is the oxygen sensor, two female round plugs one is shielded it goes to the knock sensor unshielded to the thermostat housing. Blue Spade is the gauge temp sensor located directly below the cold start injector.
I need to track down the O2 sensor wire because it is MIA from the exhaust. Knock sensor is installed, i broke off the water temp sensor just as i figured out where it goes. thats the one I need to solder back on. as for the home for the blue spade, ill have to take a closer look for it because i didnt see it upon last inspection.
The coolant return line will route forward of the intake pipe when it's connected to the hardline, and shouldn't run. Worst case just strap it out of the way, O'Reilly has the pretty steel band straps in the performance section along with the heat shield fabric (odds are they won't know what your asking for or where it is, been here done this ).
For now, itll be ran like stock. later on down the road when I get a wild hair i have plans to dremel the hardline off the charge pipe and run a single coolant line to the radiator
Hang tough you ARE almost there!
WAHOO!!
Edit: sorry I got the add.. I've mentioned before the alternator wires but just in case. Make sure these route below the large coolant line when you put it on, you'll want the extra room to get the elbow on the front of the turbocharger.
Your eyesight is getting bad, friend! Already took your suggestion and rerouted it. Check again.
Last edited by space-junk; 02-01-2017 at 05:25 PM.