Doomys 87 Turbo 4runner Build thread
#221
Got a little more work done on the runner today. Managed to get the lower intake bolted on and most of the wiring sorted(except a plug that we couldn't figure out). We also managed to get the alternator and bracketry installed along with the exhaust manifold test fit and fount out Im missing the coolant lines to and from the turbo. Not sure where those wandered off to. Also missing one upper intake and 1 lower intake bolt, plus some AC bracket bolts.
Got the Power steering pump and bracket installed. Then I promptly uninstalled it. I never took the bracket or pump out of the truck while it sat for 4 years and this proved 2 issues for me. 1, the bracket is still unpainted and greasy. That just wont do. 2, The power steering pump had dripped a few drops of fluid after we moved the truck to the shop. I had assumed that it was from the greasy pump just dripping water out of nooks and crannies after being pressure washed. I was wrong. The pump had been tied up out of the way to the core support all these years. Well, I guess that the hose didnt like being flexed from the new position it had adopted and cracked open. Crap. i was going to take the brackets off anyways, so i just decided to remove both lines and the pump so i could clean everything up. Well, as soon as i pulled the lines i noticed something strange about the fluid. It was the color of wild honey. NOT ATF. My dad thinks it might be light weight motor oil. sooooo, now i get to rebuild the pump while its out. Not looking forward to that. Any advice is appreciated.
Got the Power steering pump and bracket installed. Then I promptly uninstalled it. I never took the bracket or pump out of the truck while it sat for 4 years and this proved 2 issues for me. 1, the bracket is still unpainted and greasy. That just wont do. 2, The power steering pump had dripped a few drops of fluid after we moved the truck to the shop. I had assumed that it was from the greasy pump just dripping water out of nooks and crannies after being pressure washed. I was wrong. The pump had been tied up out of the way to the core support all these years. Well, I guess that the hose didnt like being flexed from the new position it had adopted and cracked open. Crap. i was going to take the brackets off anyways, so i just decided to remove both lines and the pump so i could clean everything up. Well, as soon as i pulled the lines i noticed something strange about the fluid. It was the color of wild honey. NOT ATF. My dad thinks it might be light weight motor oil. sooooo, now i get to rebuild the pump while its out. Not looking forward to that. Any advice is appreciated.
#222
This is the plug that we dont know where it goes to.
Wiring is getting sorted
The coolant line off the back of the water pump. This, i believe, goes to the turbo. Anyone can confirm?
I believe the retur line comes out this end and goes through the tube attached to the intake and back to the radiator. Once again, anyone can confirm?
Where we left it until i get the bolts and coolant lines i need.
Just set the upper intake in place for grins. So close now. Cant wait. Also, eagle eyed readers will see that i also need a new throttle cable. SMH.
I think i need to get some silicone elbows for the everything else looks nice but those.
Checked the exhaust. the cat looks almost brand new, So im gonna try to reuse it. build a test pipe section so i can swap it out after the smog test.
Wiring is getting sorted
The coolant line off the back of the water pump. This, i believe, goes to the turbo. Anyone can confirm?
I believe the retur line comes out this end and goes through the tube attached to the intake and back to the radiator. Once again, anyone can confirm?
Where we left it until i get the bolts and coolant lines i need.
Just set the upper intake in place for grins. So close now. Cant wait. Also, eagle eyed readers will see that i also need a new throttle cable. SMH.
I think i need to get some silicone elbows for the everything else looks nice but those.
Checked the exhaust. the cat looks almost brand new, So im gonna try to reuse it. build a test pipe section so i can swap it out after the smog test.
Last edited by space-junk; 12-13-2016 at 02:41 AM.
#223
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
The mystery wire looks like the Knock sensor, it comes out of the same branch as the cold start and tucks down under the intake to the sensor located right behind the fuel filter.
The short pipe on the exhaust side is the turbo coolant feed, stock it's a ~3/8" maybe 6 inch long semi formed hose with a plastic sheath that does the forming.
The Elbow on the front of the turbo is for the wastegate actuator not the coolant lines.
According to LCE there should be two sets of hose barbs to attach to the turbo, depending what size lines you use. I expect the ports are on the sides of the CHRA, they will be m14x1.50 and should already have one set of barbs installed again according to the "destrutions" from LCE..
Good data at this LINK for that turbo, lots of imagies and all(?) the data sheets
On a related note. That coolant return hard line attached to the charge pipe, I plan to re route with soft line like I did my crank case vent. This lets the intake pipe come off and not have to pinch off coolant lines, or remember to reconnect the vent.
The wire bundle to the alternator goes UNDER the water pipe then to their connections, you'll maybe need that extra 1/4 inch to get the elbow off/on the front of the turbo once it's all packed in there it's really tight. With the #35010 ct20, it wasn't fun to do, with the diesel or supra ones it tilts them out an extra inch and you need a dang shoe horn to get it on.
The heater line to the rear seat is something I got bitten by also, make sure you have plenty of clearance between it and the exhaust and down-pipe/elbow it might need another strap to pull it closer to the body or fender.
You have that single wire hanging out the front with "NC", I believe thats the water temp sensor at the front of the thermostat housing. My TPS wires are cable tied to it so it hangs closer to where it lives.
The short pipe on the exhaust side is the turbo coolant feed, stock it's a ~3/8" maybe 6 inch long semi formed hose with a plastic sheath that does the forming.
The Elbow on the front of the turbo is for the wastegate actuator not the coolant lines.
According to LCE there should be two sets of hose barbs to attach to the turbo, depending what size lines you use. I expect the ports are on the sides of the CHRA, they will be m14x1.50 and should already have one set of barbs installed again according to the "destrutions" from LCE..
Good data at this LINK for that turbo, lots of imagies and all(?) the data sheets
On a related note. That coolant return hard line attached to the charge pipe, I plan to re route with soft line like I did my crank case vent. This lets the intake pipe come off and not have to pinch off coolant lines, or remember to reconnect the vent.
The wire bundle to the alternator goes UNDER the water pipe then to their connections, you'll maybe need that extra 1/4 inch to get the elbow off/on the front of the turbo once it's all packed in there it's really tight. With the #35010 ct20, it wasn't fun to do, with the diesel or supra ones it tilts them out an extra inch and you need a dang shoe horn to get it on.
The heater line to the rear seat is something I got bitten by also, make sure you have plenty of clearance between it and the exhaust and down-pipe/elbow it might need another strap to pull it closer to the body or fender.
You have that single wire hanging out the front with "NC", I believe thats the water temp sensor at the front of the thermostat housing. My TPS wires are cable tied to it so it hangs closer to where it lives.
#225
Thanks so much for the info! I'm trying to process it all but I'm a little groggy at work. It will make more sense when I get home to see it in person. hahahaha.
That link has some great info on it! As for the coolant lines, thanks for the tip about bypassing the intake pipe; and as for the routing, of coolant lines to and from the turbo, the ports on turbo point straight down, which isn't so bad except the lines will have a righteous u bend in them. both sides. Keith gave me an idea about taking wire and wrapping a regular coolant hose and then bending it to prevent it from kinking. Might give that a go. Seems like a waste to buy stock coolant lines and then cut them.
That link has some great info on it! As for the coolant lines, thanks for the tip about bypassing the intake pipe; and as for the routing, of coolant lines to and from the turbo, the ports on turbo point straight down, which isn't so bad except the lines will have a righteous u bend in them. both sides. Keith gave me an idea about taking wire and wrapping a regular coolant hose and then bending it to prevent it from kinking. Might give that a go. Seems like a waste to buy stock coolant lines and then cut them.
#226
Went by the dealership before work today and picked up some bolts I was missing along with a PCV gromet, valve, IACV hose to plenum, and I was going to order the PS rebuild kit, but they wanted 49 bucks for it at my cost! 68 for everyone else. Needless to say, I went online and found a Gates brand rebuild kit for 15 bucks on amazon. Also ordered some 5/8th coolant line to make my runs for the turbo.
Spent about an hour cleaning up the brackets and bolts for the power steering pump. got a nice coat of black laid down on them. Part of me misses painting. I'll get my fix in sage 2 of the build. Last bit of painting for now is going to be the pump itself and since I'm out of silver, it'll get the black treatment too.
As a side note, I've discovered something that makes working on the runner by myself late at night more enjoyable. A member here by the name jason_in_tn runs a podcast called Toyota Trucks and Trails and it's pretty rad. You guys should give it a listen.
Bracketry and bolts for PS.
Sooooo dirty.
Pump has been leaking for a while, i assume.
Bearing moves smooth in the pulley, adjuster was soooo caked in oil and dirt that it wouldnt hardly turn.
Bolts were caked too,
The whole pump is slimy.
If you look close you can see the gold color from the low pressure fitting. Definately not ATF like it should be.
Brackets all painted. Apparently I have no idea how to focus my phones camera. Oh well, nice and shiny.
Bolt Heads painted. I miss the smell of fresh paint.
The crown jewel of todays work. Got the PCV valve gromet installed,
These two pics are of the PS resivoir, They show how filthy it is. Bottom pic is the best one i could get, but it looks like theres chunky sediment sitting in the bottom of the res. Dont know what that means, but im going to pull the lines and clean it out the best i can with some carb and choke cleaner.
Spent about an hour cleaning up the brackets and bolts for the power steering pump. got a nice coat of black laid down on them. Part of me misses painting. I'll get my fix in sage 2 of the build. Last bit of painting for now is going to be the pump itself and since I'm out of silver, it'll get the black treatment too.
As a side note, I've discovered something that makes working on the runner by myself late at night more enjoyable. A member here by the name jason_in_tn runs a podcast called Toyota Trucks and Trails and it's pretty rad. You guys should give it a listen.
Bracketry and bolts for PS.
Sooooo dirty.
Pump has been leaking for a while, i assume.
Bearing moves smooth in the pulley, adjuster was soooo caked in oil and dirt that it wouldnt hardly turn.
Bolts were caked too,
The whole pump is slimy.
If you look close you can see the gold color from the low pressure fitting. Definately not ATF like it should be.
Brackets all painted. Apparently I have no idea how to focus my phones camera. Oh well, nice and shiny.
Bolt Heads painted. I miss the smell of fresh paint.
The crown jewel of todays work. Got the PCV valve gromet installed,
These two pics are of the PS resivoir, They show how filthy it is. Bottom pic is the best one i could get, but it looks like theres chunky sediment sitting in the bottom of the res. Dont know what that means, but im going to pull the lines and clean it out the best i can with some carb and choke cleaner.
Last edited by space-junk; 12-15-2016 at 04:50 AM.
#227
Contributing Member
Working on the truck is my favorite time to listen to the Toyota Trucks and Trails podcast too. What in the heck is that last picture? Late night flying saucers??
#229
Contributing Member
Ha, it looked like some sort of oil-holding vessel but couldn't be an oil pan or vc access. We had fun guessing.
#233
It will eventually have 35s on it, but that's down the road. We decided that it would be better to put the money to use getting the truck running as it doesn't do either of us any good with a nice gearset in the front, but no way to actually move the damn thing under its own power. focus on get it running for stage 1. Suspension done for stage 2. armor for stage 3. gears and wheels for stage 4.
I need to redo the first post. it's a mess. dunno what yotatech did, but all of my html is wonky. it also feels cluttered. so I'm gonna redo it and outline the plans for the build in the 4 steps above. any advice or pointers as to the validity of the order I chose are welcome
I need to redo the first post. it's a mess. dunno what yotatech did, but all of my html is wonky. it also feels cluttered. so I'm gonna redo it and outline the plans for the build in the 4 steps above. any advice or pointers as to the validity of the order I chose are welcome
#238
Who's Truck/4Runner is that in the pictures with the big turbo? It looks like the battery has swapped sides and where did the fuel rail go? It looks really clean too. Anyone know the build thread for this?