'86 fender trimming?
#21
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What gears does it have now tho? Tow package? Maybe it's stock gears are just low enough that it's manageable for you. Sure it's driveable but the right way to do it is with lower gears which he may have in the lifted one so might as well check.
Really just wanted to make sure he knows there's more to it than having the clearance to fit the tires. It will effect drive ability whether decent enough for u to get by for awhile is a personal opinion and decision for each individual to make but ultimately your gonna want lower gears whether now or eventually so better to be aware of it now so u can anticipate and plan for it.
lower gears=greater torque multiplication=greater traction for off-roading you need 2 things Traction and clearance (don't forget safety and recovery those are kinda common sense tho)
The point is tho, it totally doable and drive able without regearing.
Is it ideal? No. But it cost me all of 50$ above the cost of the tires to be running 35s.
Is it a low geared rock crawler? No. But for general bouncing around on trails it works great.
Will I be regearing? Yes. But only to 4.88 and only cause I got diffs for a sweet deal. After putting the tires on I found it very liveable. It's not a daily driver, but has been at times, with no issues.
Just go for it. Regear later... Or sooner if you find you can't live with it.
Last edited by toyscraps; 08-21-2016 at 09:34 PM.
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Okay, I was away yesterday so I didn't get much of a chance to do anything.
Found an old square- https://www.dropbox.com/s/oi2zib3i0x...%20AM.jpg?dl=0 figured if I attached a pencil/pen to it it would make a nice tool to make the outline for the outline of the cut.
I'm not sure how well you can see the marks, but I'd probably have to go higher than the first line- https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0xe80x51c...%20AM.jpg?dl=0
Do you guys think I should bother to cut them? Because honestly, it's only really bad on that one side. All of the other fenders are easily fixable. Or perhaps just cut the back ones?
Anyways, if I were to cut it how would I go about this? https://www.dropbox.com/s/nta374g2y1...%20AM.jpg?dl=0 would I have to round/cut it before it got to that bolt?
Found an old square- https://www.dropbox.com/s/oi2zib3i0x...%20AM.jpg?dl=0 figured if I attached a pencil/pen to it it would make a nice tool to make the outline for the outline of the cut.
I'm not sure how well you can see the marks, but I'd probably have to go higher than the first line- https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0xe80x51c...%20AM.jpg?dl=0
Do you guys think I should bother to cut them? Because honestly, it's only really bad on that one side. All of the other fenders are easily fixable. Or perhaps just cut the back ones?
Anyways, if I were to cut it how would I go about this? https://www.dropbox.com/s/nta374g2y1...%20AM.jpg?dl=0 would I have to round/cut it before it got to that bolt?
#23
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some states in america have a vehicle inspection, that might flag rubber fender wells, but you probably don't have to worry about that in b.c.? the only safety issue i can see is if something somehow punched thru the rubber and hit someone in the back seat?? maybe a radial tire coming apart on the highway, that could be dangerous... seems like a long shot... you could rivet a piece of sheet metal across those bars, as a guard, plus it would give you something else to attach the rubber floormat to.
the most accurate way to figure out rear end gearing is to put a piece of tape on the driveshaft, and another on the wheel, and count revolutions against each other.
the most accurate way to figure out rear end gearing is to put a piece of tape on the driveshaft, and another on the wheel, and count revolutions against each other.
#24
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And we do have vehicle inspection, but only it's being insured for the first time (I think). My grandpa how ever seem to think he can insure it without having to get in inspected though. After that, as long as you keep renewing the insurance it's all good as long as a cop doesn't pull you over.
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Door tag on lifted toy would be wrong if aftermarket lower gears where installed. Google or search here how to tell with them installed iirc you jack up rear, rotate driveline one rotation and count how many times the tire turns or vice versa you want roughly a 5:1 ratio but again search and see cause I am not for sure, a lot of great write ups from a lot of ppl more knowledgable then me
edit OSV beat me to it good idea too bout the sheet metal if you don't have rivet gun can use some self tapping sheet metal screws
edit OSV beat me to it good idea too bout the sheet metal if you don't have rivet gun can use some self tapping sheet metal screws
And I do have a rivet gun.. somewhere anyways.
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120/toyota-faq-66255/
"35x12.50 on 15x8 w/ 3.75" backspace wheels needs 4" IFS suspension lift plus 2" body lift for good fit. Many IFS lifts require less backspacing on the wheels to clear the dropped A-arms, this in turn pushes the wheels/tires out farther from the body, making tire/body contact more of an issue. The 2" body lift can help reduce rubbing. Less lift may be possible with more fender trimming. (from 4crawler.com)" -quote from FAQ
According to the FAQ you will need to check out backspacing on rims in order for it to clear the A arms. Depending on width of the 35s...
"35x12.50 on 15x8 w/ 3.75" backspace wheels needs 4" IFS suspension lift plus 2" body lift for good fit. Many IFS lifts require less backspacing on the wheels to clear the dropped A-arms, this in turn pushes the wheels/tires out farther from the body, making tire/body contact more of an issue. The 2" body lift can help reduce rubbing. Less lift may be possible with more fender trimming. (from 4crawler.com)" -quote from FAQ
According to the FAQ you will need to check out backspacing on rims in order for it to clear the A arms. Depending on width of the 35s...
#28
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It has the factory 4.3s that came standard with the auto trans.
The point is tho, it totally doable and drive able without regearing.
Is it ideal? No. But it cost me all of 50$ above the cost of the tires to be running 35s.
Is it a low geared rock crawler? No. But for general bouncing around on trails it works great.
Will I be regearing? Yes. But only to 4.88 and only cause I got diffs for a sweet deal. After putting the tires on I found it very liveable. It's not a daily driver, but has been at times, with no issues.
Just go for it. Regear later... Or sooner if you find you can't live with it.
The point is tho, it totally doable and drive able without regearing.
Is it ideal? No. But it cost me all of 50$ above the cost of the tires to be running 35s.
Is it a low geared rock crawler? No. But for general bouncing around on trails it works great.
Will I be regearing? Yes. But only to 4.88 and only cause I got diffs for a sweet deal. After putting the tires on I found it very liveable. It's not a daily driver, but has been at times, with no issues.
Just go for it. Regear later... Or sooner if you find you can't live with it.
So I certainly would agree "Just do it!" But be aware of the cause and affect. So check the gears in your donor if they are lower you can trade out the diffs which you could do yourself. If not (and you seriously want the 35s) then just do it and post pics! It will get you out there sooner then later and having fun. ALOT of ppl get by fine without gearing others gear down with nearly stock size tires. It's really a personal preference but a lot of factors will influence that decision like tire size (diameter and width), weight of vehicle, application (do you want a pre runner/dune buggy or a rock crawler?) and of course BUDGET lol so really you use what ya got and upgrade as you can!
But (like you did!) definitely research first! Sucks to find out afterward you did something the hard way there was a much easier way!
edit: to answer your question-- It depends what you wanna use the truck for and why u want the 35s. If it's only to repair the rust damage on an "every day driver with some fun on the side" then personally I don't think it would be worth it. You could cut out the bad stuff like pictured and repair the rest, you could always sell the 35s and get some aggressive 32s or even 33s and take less of a hit with the lack of gearing but it depends on what you want out of it. If you want the 35s do it! But if you just wanna do it cause you think it's the "easy" way to get rid of the rust then really wouldn't be worth it especially for a primarily daily driver but that's my opinion. If your doing it cause you plan to slowly build it to a capable off road rig then it would be worth doing it especially if the right gears are in the donor ready to go! Look into the Zuk mod too like toysrcrap said, it will help these 4Runners are known for a saggy rear end.
Last edited by 4RunnerFreak12; 08-22-2016 at 01:48 PM.
#29
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It really comes down to doing what you gotta do and using what's available to you for a fair price. Atleast it gets you where you need to go on and off road THATS WHAT ITS ALL ABOUT
So I certainly would agree "Just do it!" But be aware of the cause and affect. So check the gears in your donor if they are lower you can trade out the diffs which you could do yourself. If not (and you seriously want the 35s) then just do it and post pics! It will get you out there sooner then later and having fun. ALOT of ppl get by fine without gearing others gear down with nearly stock size tires. It's really a personal preference but a lot of factors will influence that decision like tire size (diameter and width), weight of vehicle, application (do you want a pre runner/dune buggy or a rock crawler?) and of course BUDGET lol so really you use what ya got and upgrade as you can!
But (like you did!) definitely research first! Sucks to find out afterward you did something the hard way there was a much easier way!
edit: to answer your question-- It depends what you wanna use the truck for and why u want the 35s. If it's only to repair the rust damage on an "every day driver with some fun on the side" then personally I don't think it would be worth it. You could cut out the bad stuff like pictured and repair the rest, you could always sell the 35s and get some aggressive 32s or even 33s and take less of a hit with the lack of gearing but it depends on what you want out of it. If you want the 35s do it! But if you just wanna do it cause you think it's the "easy" way to get rid of the rust then really wouldn't be worth it especially for a primarily daily driver but that's my opinion. If your doing it cause you plan to slowly build it to a capable off road rig then it would be worth doing it especially if the right gears are in the donor ready to go! Look into the Zuk mod too like toysrcrap said, it will help these 4Runners are known for a saggy rear end.
So I certainly would agree "Just do it!" But be aware of the cause and affect. So check the gears in your donor if they are lower you can trade out the diffs which you could do yourself. If not (and you seriously want the 35s) then just do it and post pics! It will get you out there sooner then later and having fun. ALOT of ppl get by fine without gearing others gear down with nearly stock size tires. It's really a personal preference but a lot of factors will influence that decision like tire size (diameter and width), weight of vehicle, application (do you want a pre runner/dune buggy or a rock crawler?) and of course BUDGET lol so really you use what ya got and upgrade as you can!
But (like you did!) definitely research first! Sucks to find out afterward you did something the hard way there was a much easier way!
edit: to answer your question-- It depends what you wanna use the truck for and why u want the 35s. If it's only to repair the rust damage on an "every day driver with some fun on the side" then personally I don't think it would be worth it. You could cut out the bad stuff like pictured and repair the rest, you could always sell the 35s and get some aggressive 32s or even 33s and take less of a hit with the lack of gearing but it depends on what you want out of it. If you want the 35s do it! But if you just wanna do it cause you think it's the "easy" way to get rid of the rust then really wouldn't be worth it especially for a primarily daily driver but that's my opinion. If your doing it cause you plan to slowly build it to a capable off road rig then it would be worth doing it especially if the right gears are in the donor ready to go! Look into the Zuk mod too like toysrcrap said, it will help these 4Runners are known for a saggy rear end.
One of the donor 4Runner's back fender is completely rusted out, so that gives me a bit of a chance to decide how I'm going to do it. I could also practice on it as well.
Here's what I think I'm going to do
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ynnvgf9abi...P9468.JPG?dl=0
Black line indicates where I'm going to trim it, and then the green lines show where I'm going to cut and push up.
Then I'll probably coat it with some kitty litter/bondo.
Also, kinda off topic. Is there much money in selling off some of the parts? Since I have 2 donors, chances are I'm not going to use a lot of stuff. Like the speedometers, dash, AC stuff, vents, grille, etc.
#30
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Think I'm just going to do it! I'm going to replace the panels eventually, and I think it would be fun to do My grandpa seems to think I can just find the panels to weld on for like $70 a piece. Is that true?
One of the donor 4Runner's back fender is completely rusted out, so that gives me a bit of a chance to decide how I'm going to do it. I could also practice on it as well.
Here's what I think I'm going to do
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ynnvgf9abi...P9468.JPG?dl=0
Black line indicates where I'm going to trim it, and then the green lines show where I'm going to cut and push up.
Then I'll probably coat it with some kitty litter/bondo.
Also, kinda off topic. Is there much money in selling off some of the parts? Since I have 2 donors, chances are I'm not going to use a lot of stuff. Like the speedometers, dash, AC stuff, vents, grille, etc.
One of the donor 4Runner's back fender is completely rusted out, so that gives me a bit of a chance to decide how I'm going to do it. I could also practice on it as well.
Here's what I think I'm going to do
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ynnvgf9abi...P9468.JPG?dl=0
Black line indicates where I'm going to trim it, and then the green lines show where I'm going to cut and push up.
Then I'll probably coat it with some kitty litter/bondo.
Also, kinda off topic. Is there much money in selling off some of the parts? Since I have 2 donors, chances are I'm not going to use a lot of stuff. Like the speedometers, dash, AC stuff, vents, grille, etc.
http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/
#31
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Just $$! Very nice panels tho!
Im sure you could find panels if needed. Cut to clear the rust and still follow the body lines as best you can, slap the tires on and trim to fit.
You can do it! Are u gonna get replacement panels or wheel tubs? You could prob just get some thin sheet metal and make your own wheel tubs rivet them in then do like a rubber coating to seal it. If your gonna cut most the rust out you probably won't want/need new panels- that last pic isn't yours is it? Thought it was maroon... Once you have the 35s on it will be awesome. And really your on the right track "lift as much as you need but no more then you have to" so trim to fit method is ideal. You can gear later and lift alittle later to get better wheel travel but for now not a bad game plan! Way to use what ya got to get it done!
Don't forget to post pics when it's done lol we like pics!
Good luck!
Im sure you could find panels if needed. Cut to clear the rust and still follow the body lines as best you can, slap the tires on and trim to fit.
You can do it! Are u gonna get replacement panels or wheel tubs? You could prob just get some thin sheet metal and make your own wheel tubs rivet them in then do like a rubber coating to seal it. If your gonna cut most the rust out you probably won't want/need new panels- that last pic isn't yours is it? Thought it was maroon... Once you have the 35s on it will be awesome. And really your on the right track "lift as much as you need but no more then you have to" so trim to fit method is ideal. You can gear later and lift alittle later to get better wheel travel but for now not a bad game plan! Way to use what ya got to get it done!
Don't forget to post pics when it's done lol we like pics!
Good luck!
Last edited by 4RunnerFreak12; 08-22-2016 at 06:56 PM.
#32
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There are some links to the Toyota Fiberglass place showing a "proper" sealed tub for the rear of the Gen1 4Runner.
That inner wheel well is likely to be way rusted. Yer almost better off cutting all the way to the old join line, and then welding in new sheet metal (fab from flat stock)
SSPX0826.jpg
From this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f209...98/index2.html
That inner wheel well is likely to be way rusted. Yer almost better off cutting all the way to the old join line, and then welding in new sheet metal (fab from flat stock)
SSPX0826.jpg
From this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f209...98/index2.html
#33
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That's a terribly awesome link ewong now I really want a set! That 4Runner is so sweeet!! Really like the way he did the tub turned out super clean. Answered a question about the high Clearence fenders I didn't know>>Can fit 36s with no lift! And those things look great and will take a beating and no more rust issues! Really a great option. Wish I had the $ for some!
#34
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If I was wanting to replace panels and make it "pretty" I'd be looking into this place. Great stuff.
http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/
http://www.toyotafiberglass.com/
#35
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Just $$! Very nice panels tho!
Im sure you could find panels if needed. Cut to clear the rust and still follow the body lines as best you can, slap the tires on and trim to fit.
You can do it! Are u gonna get replacement panels or wheel tubs? You could prob just get some thin sheet metal and make your own wheel tubs rivet them in then do like a rubber coating to seal it. If your gonna cut most the rust out you probably won't want/need new panels- that last pic isn't yours is it? Thought it was maroon... Once you have the 35s on it will be awesome. And really your on the right track "lift as much as you need but no more then you have to" so trim to fit method is ideal. You can gear later and lift alittle later to get better wheel travel but for now not a bad game plan! Way to use what ya got to get it done!
Don't forget to post pics when it's done lol we like pics!
Good luck!
Im sure you could find panels if needed. Cut to clear the rust and still follow the body lines as best you can, slap the tires on and trim to fit.
You can do it! Are u gonna get replacement panels or wheel tubs? You could prob just get some thin sheet metal and make your own wheel tubs rivet them in then do like a rubber coating to seal it. If your gonna cut most the rust out you probably won't want/need new panels- that last pic isn't yours is it? Thought it was maroon... Once you have the 35s on it will be awesome. And really your on the right track "lift as much as you need but no more then you have to" so trim to fit method is ideal. You can gear later and lift alittle later to get better wheel travel but for now not a bad game plan! Way to use what ya got to get it done!
Don't forget to post pics when it's done lol we like pics!
Good luck!
I'll post pictures tomorrow I think I'm going to start cutting then. Or at least prep it.
Ill keep this page updated
#36
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Was all rhino lined by p/o but was peeling and driving me nuts so peeled it all off to find this....
Here's the extent of my rust
Hoping to be able to sand it down and treat the rust and fill it with bondo with the mesh stuff
Pin hole here
I thought about cutting it but I only have 235/75 wildcats so would look stupid. Also note no engine or trans in pic hence why sitting so high.
Tires are dry rotted so keepin an eye out for a cheap set of 33s (might settle on 31s or 32s really depends what I can find cheap) then trim to fit. While prob redo rhinoliner but might repaint it first will see when the time comes. For now getting the engine finished is first priority I will be running street rv head with a torquer cam from ENGNBLDR so not quite as worried bout the gearing right away but really will see what tires I can find gonna try to trade/barter of a set of whatever I can find that has some nice beefy tread. I actually really like my lil 235/75 wildcats they have great tread pattern I can sling some mud really good! And don't feel under geared at all.
Here's the extent of my rust
Hoping to be able to sand it down and treat the rust and fill it with bondo with the mesh stuff
Pin hole here
I thought about cutting it but I only have 235/75 wildcats so would look stupid. Also note no engine or trans in pic hence why sitting so high.
Tires are dry rotted so keepin an eye out for a cheap set of 33s (might settle on 31s or 32s really depends what I can find cheap) then trim to fit. While prob redo rhinoliner but might repaint it first will see when the time comes. For now getting the engine finished is first priority I will be running street rv head with a torquer cam from ENGNBLDR so not quite as worried bout the gearing right away but really will see what tires I can find gonna try to trade/barter of a set of whatever I can find that has some nice beefy tread. I actually really like my lil 235/75 wildcats they have great tread pattern I can sling some mud really good! And don't feel under geared at all.
Last edited by 4RunnerFreak12; 08-22-2016 at 08:49 PM.
#39
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mmmmk so I think I heavily underestimated how much I'm actually going to need to cut in order to clear these 35s... Where do you guys recommend to cut?
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I know they're a bit bald too. Planning on getting some new ones down the road (once I get it insured, and have a bit of extra money)