When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
BOGO Day at the upullandpay. Damn ramenesq budget.
Swapped out my waterpump today to keep my mind off it. Sure could of used that LCE timing cover torque guide as a sticker under the hood. Was doing a nice orderly tightening of the bolts and that blasted M8 mixed me up and I cracked the next M6 because I forgot to reset the clicker to 6lb. Managed to just barely break it since I was going slow and easy on it the threads held it together and I got it back out in one piece. Unfortunatly this was about 10-30 minutes after all the shops in town closed up for thier short sunday hours. 10-4 really! Crap! Will have to run and grab a new one tomarrow from napa, local salvage yard is a bit too far to pedal to with rain imminent.
Tip of the day.. When replacing a 22r series water pump you can shift the power steering idler out of the way by removing the two easy bolts and leaving the lower right hand one just loose, then rotote it up and secure it with the PS belt looped over the PS fluid resi'. Saves having to pull the pulley off the PS pump to get that last bolt out.
Your interior has made some big changes. Suprisingly what a little effort can do and the results it can make. You got alot of good info posted, Thanks!! I will be refering back to it shortly when the weather finally warms up, it if ever will, starting to wonder at times.
I am old school as well. I like being at a computer and not on a phone, but as I understand it, eventually all phones are going to be internet based. I plan on being the very last one to make the switch.
After seeing all of the interior cleaning that you have done, it reminded me of how bad the ventilation system can get. Alot of it works its way thru the cowl and gets caught down at the blower and on both sides of the blower. That makes a big difference in as well in the freshness of the air if you ever want to tackle that as well.
Told you I'd be a slow month, I almost fell off the front page. between the funding and snow I've done pretty much nothing this month.
Got my welder issue worked out it was just a loose spade connector on the trigger so I didn't have to run any new wire just tightened them both up and knocked off some arc deposits since I was in there.
Weather forecast looks good for a whole week!
Hoping to get the fender pulled off tomorrow. Will sand of the protective coat I sprayed. Then stitch the couple cracks I didn't do before. Try to find the mangled piece of stiffening rib I cut off and weld that back on after hammering it back to shape. File down the welds. Clean off some surface rust. And proceed to hammering it back into shape. I don't expect to get the great results I got with the front corner but I'll give it a try.
The area I'm attacking is this one. Which is a large round area. It might be just an "exercise in futility", looking at that picture I'm not sure I can get the gap right with the tools I have available (No chisels, no donor sheet metal).
The major problem area is in the middle, notice the big gap and two rips/cracks, I think this is where the stiffener is missing. The secondary issue is the lack of a good gas flux welder, is it going to clean up well enough can I avoid getting slag in the center of the sheet maybe maybe not. The part I've welded before wasn't sanded flush you can see the weld at the top where it's not sanded/filed flush. Did this have slag or is it just catching water and soaking into the primer. Either way it's good practice I guess but I won't be happy if I get 10+ hours into this and it just rusts out anyway
Obviously this isn't really cost effective, I've already got a couple hours into the front corner, but finding a usable straight one at the salvage yard is impossible and/or cost prohibitive. I haven't checked with the Toyota specific salvage but the prices that show up on car-parts.com are the same as a new one shipped from RockAuto.
Really hating my flat rear springs. Poked around a bit and for what a new set of springs will cost, about >300$, I could put air bags under it for not too much more. But it requires some fab work I'm not really interested in doing or funded for.
So some research turned up two viable options I wish I'd of had before I replaced my shocks.
61$ off amazon. The coil overs provide an extra 500lb of "lift", and effectively give me a ZUK mod without having to fab up spring perches. The Air shock provide an extra 1100lb, but I expect I'll still have the skate board on the sidewalk type jarring ride.
Not really sure which way I'm leaning here, six to one half dozen the other.. Coil overs should have a nice cush' ride but my camber will be all over the map. Air shocks will let me level the frame with varying loads, but I remember what those feel like from the hot rod days and it's no caddy all though those did use an air shock but I expect they're not of the same quality
My other slack project is the voltage regulator so I can run my camera from the truck off the lighter socket. Got almost all the parts but I can't find a 4mm barrel plug to fit the camera I wanted to use.. The one I've been using doesn't even have an external power socket and uses much less voltage so is problematic to buck that low. (Subtext: You're not going to get as many pictures as I'd like to provide, until I can work something out that doesn't eat batteries like a rampant kid in a candy factory.)
It's Colorado so we might still get snow in may but I'm ready to switch to complaining about it being over 100..
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 04-24-2013 at 03:39 PM.
Reason: Auto parse makes ugly links, and there is nothing I can do about it FAIL x3
I have heard that welding on the metal that Toyota uses is quite tricky. I have never welded on panels so really wouldnt know. I am hoping to learn when and if I ever get a wire welder. Something I really want to learn.
I hear you on the weather. We had flurries last nite and then today we got up in the high 60's. Hoping it will warm up and stay warm. This winter has been a long one.
And I figured out what was banging around in my frontend driving me nuts. At some point my sway bar dropped one of the bolts and was working on the other one. There is an 86 at the local bone yard, got kind of luck and since the last time I was there someone removed the front rims so I had plenty of room to work, bad news is I only had 30 minutes till closing time and couldn't any of the four to budge and was happy to of made it out w/o breaking my wrench. Tried all the local hardware stores and no one had a M12x1.25x75mm, closest I could get was a 50mm one and that was way too short.
Dropped my bumper and had to do a touch up, really should have taken the extra 5 minutes to remove the turn signals But one of em wiped of just fine, the other is going to need wet sanded again and a new clear coat presumably but I doubt anyone but me will notice and it's on the passenger side so out of sight out of mind for now.
Spend a lot of time getting the radiator support side plate apron thing to match the undamaged one since I had the bumper off again and wanted to get it sealed back up from the last time I hammered on it. It's mostly matching and flat again and painted both sides to seal it up, Spend way too much time working on it's stiffening curves.
When I moved onto the fender, the first think that happened was my canvas camp seat decided it was old enough to die, tried to dump me in the dirt in the process It had a good life it's over 20 years old.
Straightened out the front stiffening ribs I couldn't get at while the fender was mounted. Then sanded the primer to find any high spots that needed tapped down still. Resprayed a guide coat and sanded and hammered some more. Found a spot I'd missed at the rear of the marker lamp while sanding off the rust to seal it, hammered and painted.
Finally I got to the back of the fender and the problems started Realized I had less of the stiffener that I thought I did and that what is there is much lower than I remembered. I have about 4ish inches it's missing over 12, it stops just below the trim strip and doesn't start back up until the flat section at the top line. It's kind of a lost cause since it has no support there is that 12-14 inch gap in the middle the "flaps in the breeze". I did spend a lot of time practicing on it anyway. The comma dolly worked really well and gave good audio indications when "on-dolly", that's something that was missing from doing the front section since it's a compound curve there is a big lack of dolly to tap .
Next up was the drivers door where it had chipped off the paint rubbing on the original redneck fix. That would be a spare shirt wedged up behind the fender that froze solid and locked me out of the truck when I first got it That is what led me to welding the fender originally, that just wasn't going to work for me in colorado it doesn't freeze often in texas south of the pan-handle.
So now I've got a bunch more black stripes, and am looking for a new fender again. There is no way that is going to take putty and not crack the first time I try sanding on it, it is just way too flimsy. Poked around on car-part to search the bone yards again for 2wd fenders, prices aren't stellar 60-75$ for the ones that listed prices and they are both damaged to some extend. For the 5-6 hours of labor fixing one would take I can order from rock auto 30+75 shipping, and have a pristine one. I'd of course love to find a good left hand one from the upnp for 30-40 but they don't get a lot of these and the last one was trashed. I'd have better luck putting on 4runner ones they'd look a little strange with the larger wheel opening.
Long timers up here said it's the worst in almost 20 years. Same down your way?
Snow was two months late or so in showing up and a month or slow late to leave. Best I can recall it's about 50/50 chance of snow on halloween, didn't start till late november or mid december. It's usually gone by march with some chance of frost in april, There was recent snow just last week or the beginning of this week stuck around awhile.
Hate to use the term but "Weird weather" yup we got it, going to have to implement somethink like day light savings time if this keeps up
On with the show.. Here are the pictures from the other day I didn't get posted.
Before:
After:
Overview shot
Here is the nasty bit of my fender, you can see the bit of stiffener that is left about an inch or so below the black trim piece.
This one shows a bit of missing metal off the face.
And here is my first weld on the sheet metal. Like I mentioned before this was done awhile ago to keep it off the door and replace the "cotton stiffener"
I've yet to put any putty/filler on, I want to get the dents all beat out and then I'll sand all the little dings and such so I can fill as much as possible in one go.
----
And yesterday was the lower right side bed corner.
Before:
This isn't the greatest of pictures and I only took the one angle. (Sorry will try to get better ones next time)
Yesterdays stopping point:
All this work is done in a tiny area with limited access. There is the tailgate support which faces front to back, and also has a heavy duty reinforcement that sticks 1/4 inch into the compartment. There is a side wall rib that faces to the outside of the bed. And then there is the bed side panel it's self which is the part that needs the work. Ideally one would detach the spot welds and remove the panel, since I'm working on a driver with no garage this is a bit problematic and I'll just have to make due..
There are two approaches to removing dents.
The first and primary method is to start in the center or point of impact and when this raises it will raise all the bits between the low and high spot bulges and the high spots can be hammered down. This works really well with small dents and where you have full access on flat sections, this is demonstrated in the videos a few pages back where pressure is applied to the center and the high spots knocked down with a fender dolly.
The second is the outside in method, in this one you start at the outside and work your way to the point of impact. There are two approaches to the outside in method also, in the first and ideal setting you work along the "high stress" lines alternating from one spot to the next to gradually raise the dent, in the second you work in the middle of these lines force your way to the middle in the alternating method and finally hammer and dolly anything left of the crease from the high stress area.
I used just about every tool in the HF body hammer kit, a screwdriver, my peening hammer, and even a floor jack handle to get to this point.
I started by un-clipping the taillight wire and pulling it out of the access hole in the "gate plate", and tucked it up along it's self to keep it out of the way. Next I inserted the jack handle into that access hole and tried to do a center push, this didn't work out due to the angles and maybe interference from the bumper mounts. I didn't want to mess with the bumper mounts so I proceeded with a outside in method, you can maybe see these in the last photo at the lower right side there are two (semi) distinct rows in the bare metal. having reached the limits with that it was time for some hammering.
(note:Once the paint starts to chip off you can no longer use the reflections as an indicator of where you are connecting/tapping and it becomes a little more difficult)
I then moved to the top left corner and the chisel hammer. In hind sight I should have made sure the lip the light sits on was bent up and out of the way, since it was interfering with where I thought I was hitting and aiming. having reached the limits of the chisel head hammer it's on to the next tool, but first I pulled the lip up where it was rolling under which gave me a bit more access.
Next tool was the Uh just forgot the name, "pointy hammer" ?? bumping hammer? Anyway.. With this I did more to the top left corner which is a crease line. By using the side of the point and sometimes wedging it between the bed side and the bolt the gate hinges on I managed to get the crease out for the most part. It now meets the 1/8th inch or thinner requirement for putty.
(Note: Notice in the top section of the dent how working along the crease has pulled up everything to the right of it and thus the paint is still intact)
Next up was the screw driver, my substitute for a chisel or drift. This was worked with the gate nut as a pivot point and allowed me to lever out some along the left hand side (Missing paint below the larger section) This was done in two stages with just levering, the next part didn't work out so well and I got the tool wedged and had to drive it back out with a hammer
Next up is the comma dolly, and was used for the bulk of the work on the right side in the middle section. Using an outside in middle of the stress points method. This work is counter intuitive (maybe), I used the "back side" of the bulb end held bulb end down and back side facing out and alternated between using each corner. This takes a medium to heavy impact, light taps just make noise and no movement. In the end I was just lining it up and dropping it down the cavity once I ran out of room, which worked as long as I had it high enough.
As I noted above it's hard to keep track of what is moving and where you are tapping once the paint starts to flake off. Notice the "chicken foot" scribe marks in the last photo. These are just one of the many scribe marks that were used to keep track of what is happening.
(Tip: marking the high and low spots help you keep track of what is happening..)
I really like Terry's marker method, this can be used to color code highs and lows or even between sessions. But in the "whatever works" mentality and using whats handy I just used my paint scraper which I had at hand for removing the paint flakes
Ideally like I mentioned the panel would be removed and one could get a hammer and dolly to do most of this work, the results of this could yield a mudless repair. The next best thing would be a better selection of hammers, the chisel tip type with a selection of shallow and deep curves would make short work of this while still mounted. There is also I think I recall a "duck bill" which is similar to the chisel head but has some rounding to it which would help keep the over raising to a minimum.
---
Replacing my fender has one minor issue. The black trim on mine seems pretty rare I'll likely not find one with it and will have to try and salvage the piece I have.
It's looking good. I did some bodywork on my runner before winter sealing up and tubbing the rear fenders. And as terry said , it was a pain to weld on the thin metal. I was using .023 wire and a 110v MIG and still had some issues.
Your very knowledgable on body work. I wish I was. I know enough to get me in trouble. I need to finish the bodywork I did on the rear as its a little wavy due to the lack of time I spent in it.
My pickup has been parked since April of 2015, after an emergency trip to the hospital with an unfamiliar driver behind the wheel. I had to take over on the return trip about 15 miles from he house, despite the er drugs, because they couldn't keep it running..
Went thru two more in a span of three months. One a freebie, "I don't know how long it will last, but it outta get you to pay day". Held up a good three paydays, a trip up Kenosha pass and back included, before loosing enough power to not accelerate at a safe enough pace. It's not dead dead but it's not of interest to me to fix, it blows smoke, rumbles, and grumbles but has good even compression. Bought a grocery getter that lasted a week before a Jeep drove over the front end, well thru the front end really, and totalled it.
I don't have pictures of it right now but I'll get them next time I am under it. The little gnome tapping under my hood turned out to be an angry dwarf and wouldn't you know he ate one of my connecting rod bearings Whole! It wasn't in the pan as chunks or flakes, so it might not have been there any time I've had it, or I just missed what ever was left of it welded or smashed into were ever it hid.
It's out back expecting some attention soon, like a fresh short block. But first!
My new friend!<br/>
Was used.....
Rough...<br/>
My new friend, for those that don't read VIN, is a 1986 4runner turbo automatic. It's a grumpy pig and pretty sure it has something to do with the color of what came out of that radiator cap.
Since I do not have pavement to work on or cover to work a DIY rebuild just isn't going to work. I have a new turbo ready to install and decided to go with a long block. I just have to finally pull the trigger.
But my aim is wobbly!
Looking at a "remanufactured", just under 2200 shipped with install gaskets. They don't have an RTE block on hand but I talked to John and he was pretty sure they could do the conversion and would get back to me. I missed the return call but shot off an email with what I knew of the conversion, drill and tap the saucer for drain, drill and tap for oil feed everything else bolts on. I got an email back from someone else in SALES asking me what size I wanted the holes.
Next up is the local shops for a swap.. pull strip dress and stuff. I really just wanted it rebuild, you know by someone I can face to face if it throws parts down the road.
Went to the newer shop in the village here, it's kind of big at least three bays and clean. Unfortunately their web site seems out dated, the office girl informed me the don't do rebuilds anymore. Not thrilled I asked the hourly rate and estimate to dress and install a long block, 15 hours at $80/hr ($1200 half in advance), not including fluids and consumables. They keep the lights on doing oil and alignments it appears.
Called the next shop. Phone person there thought I wanted a small block and said the fab would be extensive, at which point I had to clarify it was the same engine type it just needed some parts cleaned and fit to the " long block assembly ". She runs thru the options "do you have..." yep got it all its an turbo sr5 I even got molded door panels. 13 hours at $75/hr ($1050). These guys keep the lights on by magic, lol just kidding, it's predominately a tire shop but I have talked to the owner about doing the engine on the pickup prior and his guys were doing an engine replacement at the time.
Third shop, I called as well knowing the owner was busy every time I've been in but took time for me. Being a longish question," John what's my out the door price?", I left it with his daughter. And only got the hourly rate when I remembered and had to call back, she was unsure but thought $105/hr.. that adds up faster than I'd like. Still haven't talked to him yet however.
The last shop I've never been in, don't exactly know which building it is even. Owner answered the phone after it rang lots, sounded elbow deep in something too. Didn't look up any flat rates but gave me an hourly of 75$ matching the other lowest..
There is one more shop it's part of the car sales lot, had my friends car twice both times it's came back worse, they were just throwing parts at it was my understanding. So this one is a no way.
And here I sit with the loaded wallet and an itchy trigger..
Have not seen you around in a while, Welcome back. Sounds like you have had a tough run on trucks and mechanics lately. Looking forward to seeing pictures of your runner.
Well the engine shop I was looking at, sales guy *face palm*.. I asked him some specific questions about lead time, payment and parts invoices. I got a copy and paste of some bits of the website, that didn't answer my questions really. I wanted to know what parts were new vs reman, and did they include the installer gasket set specifically the turbo ones. I told him exactly which holes I wanted bored, right hand oil feed bsp28 or an4, left side drain two m10x1.25 studs and bore 19x1.25. He asked me for "close up pictures of the drain back, and the exact size and location of the hole." And that I should look it up on the net or call the dealer because "I have no one here to-do that".... I guess the shop guy I talked to was a fluke, or I'm just being picky.. oh and minimum 2-3 weeks wait.
Called up the shop Terry recommended awhile back, they quoted me ~1900 w core and 250 to ship. I am not thrilled with them excluding the Timing cover. If they don't machine it with the head there can be big issues with its fit, and it's hard to get the gasket sealed if it's not on (loosely) before the head. Again picky much?
Called up sunwest, he says probably a week and a half. And ~2100 w core and 150 to ship.
The shop down in Colorado springs just has what I think are crazy prices. APR Auto.. iirc hey have multiple business names like Toyota truck engine, engine monster, and or some others.
They advertise
A "brand new long block" 22r/re at $1995 + 95
A "remanufactured w new head" 22r/re at 1920+200
The 22rte reman, 2585+200. Why you gotta charge me twice for a new head and the machine work on it geesh!
My apologies I thought I had updated, must have been a dream.
Engine is committed to. I expect it to ship by the end of the week. They of course don't have an RTE block, so will be doing a conversion. I didn't recommend they do a filter side feed. little worried hope nothing goes wrong. don't really have a way of knowing if they got the bore angle straight and square.
Pulled my cover off the steering column, remarkably clean little to no fuzz/fur/hair. No splices. Tilt might need cleaned or the lowest sprag(?)/tooth is a little stripped, not why I was there. Pulled the ignition tumbler to take to get spare keys, you can push the release pin in once the key is turned to Access. I used a paper clip since it was short and handy, the wiper switch will push down out of the way so short wasn't needed. Lady asked if I had the truck with me because she only had two blanks? I said better and ploped the tumbler on the counter.
Looked at my ignition switch and thought about RADs sticky started signal while I was under and thought better than pull it apart to demo cleaning. Lol it's basically clean and lube if it's not broken..
One of my hub switches didn't want to turn. So off it came.
Fortunately it's just full of trash and remnants of something I hope was grease, nothing broken or fused.
The bolt and washer stack didn't seem right to me but I've not been inside one of these so will have to peek at some other pictures, it's going to have to come off anyway (hub body) to get it fully cleaned out and re-greased.
Need at least one new outer seal, it came out in chunks. Need at least one new indexer ball, I don't think it was here but I forgot to check till I'd walked about 50 to sit on the bumper. Could get lucky and it's in the wash bucket I guess.
Love love love, pulling around the corner and seeing the roof of it over the other cars. Hateing the patch welded to the drivers side worse every time I see it, today I really noticed how inset the front of it is no way this is going to grind out and it's too much for even fiberglass. Might as well glue a brick to it and expect it to hold, as hold filler and not crack or just pop out. Tempted to spray it that dull black to try and hide the obvious jagged mess, but you could find this blind folded.
I still want to prep and dress the engine my self, no I don't have trust issues or nothing *grin*, well I'd rather have some little old grey beard that's done several a day for years but that's not likely. I am by no means an expert and it's been awhile since anything that in depth, at least I know the guy that put it all together and in cared like his life might depend on it ya know?
One of my regular customers asked what was new and I told him about the salesmen. "What kind of engine?" He asked. I proudly answer "86 Toyota 4runner. 22re.. turbo", watched the light go from off to on to overload. He's a Toyota fan for sure. Has one they literally tried to kill but couldn't so it got drove back from the woods. I'm not really clear How many he has, again a fan and excited, has one someone's kid drove off a cliff, good 22re manual transmission and transfer body is shot but some or most of the internal bits are there and intact. Offered me parts. He said he will get some photographs.
Since I am not really fond of driving ATM. I would not mind getting that drivetrain for the right price. Split the manual and stash it for the 4runner cause I'm not budgeting for no 151 holy cows and stab the running engine in the 94 so I can haul stuff bigger than a bread basket again. If he gets back to me before I commit to an appointment at a local shop.. maybe I rent some space on his shop lot and get it all done for less than then 16 hour flat rate I was given.
I don't know how much I could go over budget, there is a little flex built in for broken stuff. Even then I would get to buy tools I am missing.
Last edited by Co_94_PU; 08-06-2016 at 10:16 AM.
Reason: Pics
And my installer price went from 1050 on the phone to 1800 in person. Difference being the office personnel vs the owner. 13-14 hours (under cutting the other shops 15-16), or 24 hours of course he explained it could be more in which case he wouldn't charge over the 24 he quoted and would deduct if it was 21-22 but didn't want to short his mechanic.
Hey Co, I don't mean to go off topic, but reaching back a few years in this thread on your 94, you said you had swapped the lighter socket for the illuminated one that also lights up the ashtray? I have a 92 pickup that I'm doing the same thing, but it looks like I don't have the right connector. The connector on the socket (pulled from a 94ish 4runner) is square 4-pin, and the connector in my truck that I suspect was for a lighter socket (truck originally came without one, just a plastic plug) is a 2-pin L-shape. Was yours just plug and play, or did you have to tap into the illumination from the radio harness? Do you have any guidance for me?
If I didn't take pictures I probably hillbilly wired it *wink*, I am not sure without looking there was one wire end taped to the harness in that area that goes to that one or the clock I had to dig out. Off the top of my head I would tap the clock over the radio since they both(clock lighter) run to the driver side. I am starting to think I just put that wire into the back of the lighter plug and my light is keyed with the ignition not tied to the lights at all.
Oh and that is perfectly on topic, but I don't mind if it's not anyway because I get to learn teach or just have a giggle either way.
03-31-2013, 10:35 PM
It's Colorado so we might still get snow in may but I'm ready to switch to complaining about it being over 100..
But one of em wiped of just fine, the other is going to need wet sanded again and a new clear coat presumably but I doubt anyone but me will notice and it's on the passenger side so out of sight out of mind for now.
Realized I had less of the stiffener that I thought I did and that what is there is much lower than I remembered. I have about 4ish inches it's missing over 12, it stops just below the trim strip and doesn't start back up until the flat section at the top line. It's kind of a lost cause since it has no support there is that 12-14 inch gap in the middle the "flaps in the breeze". I did spend a lot of time practicing on it anyway. The comma dolly worked really well and gave good audio indications when "on-dolly", that's something that was missing from doing the front section since it's a compound curve there is a big lack of dolly to tap .
That is what led me to welding the fender originally, that just wasn't going to work for me in colorado it doesn't freeze often in texas south of the pan-handle.
