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Doomys 87 Turbo 4runner Build thread

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Old 04-08-2016, 05:18 AM
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Family effort- best ever!
Old 04-08-2016, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by space-junk

Thanks brother. Hoping to show it off next time we come visit. And maybe re-gear/make swingout tire carrier... hahahahah.
I'll regear the hell out of that thing . Bring the parts may as well elocker too
Old 04-08-2016, 06:44 PM
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If I can afford it by then. You never know. It might happen. Lol.
Old 04-09-2016, 12:27 PM
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More work. Cleaning bolts. And the last of the big brackets. And the distributor. Also trying to figure out how drunk I was when disassembly. I get the feeling that a lot of these bags of bolts are mislabeled.







Old 04-10-2016, 05:58 AM
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I think I have almost got to the point of getting it ready for a dry assemble out of the truck. All bolts are cleaned and painted, only thing left to really paint is the exhaust manifold and it didn't get painted only because my can of high heat black seems to have sprouted legs and walked off. Thinking one of my helpers were playing with it.

Anyways, as a last huzzah, I threw on the intake setup, the dizzy, and the manifold/heat shield. I think it looks good. I've got silicone vacuum line on order right now. After everything is dry fitted, I'm going to get all the vacuum lines cut to length so I don't have to do it while in the engine bay. Then, disassembly and install. Actually, I still need to pressure wash the engine bay again and get it painted or touched up.

And, if you're wondering why the engine isn't on a stand, it's because I have a small block 400 that's occupying it while waiting to be installed in my '78 GMC. Everything will be dry fit to the motor while it's sitting on my old BFG A/T tire. Because long hair, don't care.

AC bracket and tensioner all painted and re-installed. Only thing I cant remember is if the fat lip of the pulley goes towards the bracket of the thin lip. Help would be appreciated.


Manifold dirty/clean



Got tired of how messy the work bench was so I cleaned the counter and organized all the remaining bolts to clean and paint them.


All the bolts laid out dirty/cleaned and painted.



Angel getting the block nice and clean.


Just hanging stuff on there to tease myself.


Last edited by space-junk; 04-10-2016 at 06:09 AM.
Old 04-10-2016, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
AC bracket and tensioner all painted and re-installed. Only thing I cant remember is if the fat lip of the pulley goes towards the bracket of the thin lip. Help would be appreciated.
Hopefully I am understanding correctly, you are asking if the v-belt idler pulley in the picture is oriented correctly in relation to the block of the engine? The fat side of the pulley is furthest away from the block of the engine. If I miss understood, please rephrase the question.
Old 04-10-2016, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dark_fairytales
Hopefully I am understanding correctly, you are asking if the v-belt idler pulley in the picture is oriented correctly in relation to the block of the engine? The fat side of the pulley is furthest away from the block of the engine. If I miss understood, please rephrase the question.
Exactly. There's a fat side of the pulley and a thin side. Those sides also have different depths. My idiot self never checked before disassembly.
Old 04-11-2016, 09:13 AM
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Didn't make any headway on the motor yesterday due to not being able to remove the studs from the exhaust manifold. I've had wd-40 soaking them all night and will work on them more later. So, instead, I grabbed the old hi-lift I got Angel a couple years back for 10 bucks and started to refurbish it. The fix-it kit will be here in a few days with new pins and springs and I'll be contacting hi lift directly to get new decals ordered. I've been told they will send you those free of charge. Don't have any pics f the parts that were painted yet because I spaced on it, but I'll get some up layer today. FWIW, while it definately needs a rebuild and I wouldn't trust it to lift a truck, the mechanism and pins all slid smoothly for being rusted in place. The only thing that wasn't working is the body of the hi lift because I think it had James on the rusty rail.




Old 04-11-2016, 11:13 PM
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Not much done today as I was spending time with the family. My dad did help me a little. We got the studs out of the exhaust manifold and the threads cleaned. Then we got the adapter installed and turbo mounted. After running through all the parts we got with the kit, we figure it shouldn't be too hard to finish up from here. Got a list of gaskets to order as well as a water pump. Those items never made it home from the machine shop 3 years ago.

So, order of the night is to finish up cleaning the hi-lift parts and bolt a few more things together on the motor. Might also drag out the old wheels off the tacoma and wire wheel them to paint them white. Just trying to do projects to keep me motivated while we wait for parts.











Wheels and tires I'm talking about. God, I miss my tacoma.

Last edited by space-junk; 04-12-2016 at 12:34 AM.
Old 04-12-2016, 05:19 PM
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It is good you got the studs out. You really mangled them up getting them out.
It looks real good with the turbo mounted. Man I would love to have a turbo on mine; who knows maybe someday I will.
Old 04-12-2016, 07:11 PM
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I have a spare gt25 that needs a rebuild........

And the mangled portion looked that way when they came out of the manifold!
Old 04-13-2016, 09:35 AM
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Not a whole lot got done last night. I cut and extended the charge pipe, and then pulled the wheels out of storage. After washing them and killing all the black widdows, I got to wire wheeling them. It's a sad process for me since this is the last piece of the tacoma I had left. Only got 2 rims wire wheeled. Gonna do the other 2 tonight, and then clean and paint them.








As a side note, LCE, after checking with their supplier, is having a new radiator shipped to me. Sales guy, Wes, who has been helping me is awesome and had to track one down in west Virginia to have it shipped here. He's also sending a UPS tag so I can re bos the old rad and send it back on their dime. I will admit, LCE's parts may be on the expensive end of things, but man, their customer service is top notch.

Last edited by space-junk; 04-13-2016 at 09:40 AM.
Old 04-13-2016, 03:43 PM
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Hey brother, to save you some work you do not need to wire wheel the purple paint off. Just sand them good with 220grit and wipe well with alcohol. The purple has held on well and it will be fine as a primer.
Old 04-13-2016, 03:51 PM
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Lookin' good. Glad to see you decided not to use that rattle can purple this time! lol
Old 04-13-2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by space-junk
I have a spare gt25 that needs a rebuild........

And the mangled portion looked that way when they came out of the manifold!
That could be interesting for sure. any idea what the rebuild kit cost?

I will check out the flow chart on Garrets site too see what range the turbo will work with a 22re.
EDIT:
I just plotted the 22re on the gt25 flow char at 5psi, and the turbo will boost to 5psi at 1500rpm and will estimate 164hp at 5000rpm at a total efficacy of more than 72%. There is huge head room and better efficacy by upping the boost to 7psi. The boost will start at 1700rpm, which will make 180hp 5000rpm at an efficacy 78%, and close to 200lb/ft at 3700rpm (wow). The gt25 is well fitted to the 22re. So Troy you made a good choice with gt25

What psi is your waste gate?

Last edited by dark_fairytales; 04-13-2016 at 08:06 PM.
Old 04-13-2016, 08:49 PM
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Looks good, hell ya
Old 04-13-2016, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dark_fairytales
Hey brother, to save you some work you do not need to wire wheel the purple paint off. Just sand them good with 220grit and wipe well with alcohol. The purple has held on well and it will be fine as a primer.
Nah man. The purple has to go. Symbolic I guess. Hahaha.


Originally Posted by highonpottery
Lookin' good. Glad to see you decided not to use that rattle can purple this time! lol
Lol. You loved them!

Originally Posted by dark_fairytales
That could be interesting for sure. any idea what the rebuild kit cost?

I will check out the flow chart on Garrets site too see what range the turbo will work with a 22re.
EDIT:
I just plotted the 22re on the gt25 flow char at 5psi, and the turbo will boost to 5psi at 1500rpm and will estimate 164hp at 5000rpm at a total efficacy of more than 72%. There is huge head room and better efficacy by upping the boost to 7psi. The boost will start at 1700rpm, which will make 180hp 5000rpm at an efficacy 78%, and close to 200lb/ft at 3700rpm (wow). The gt25 is well fitted to the 22re. So Troy you made a good choice with gt25

What psi is your waste gate?
Rebuild kit should cost about 100 bucks. They are internally waste gated at 8psi, however you can run a manual controller and bump it to 10, however, I'm not sure the motor will like that without arp head studs.

Originally Posted by BigBluePile
Looks good, hell ya
Thanks buddy! I know it's not 5vzsuperchargerawesomepnwsupercoolcomradeinstall good, but it should work for me, and besides, y'all know I like to be a little different.

Old 04-14-2016, 04:10 PM
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I would not want to gamble 10psi on an NA engine. Besides I do not think the fuel system could keep up with 10psi, 8psi could be pushing it. the only way around the high psi would be to install an external waste gate.
Old 04-14-2016, 04:26 PM
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8 would be fine. LCE sells turbo kits to bolt onto stick 22re motors..
Old 04-14-2016, 04:29 PM
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Forgot to post this morning, but got a little more done last night. Hi lift parts are done being painted. Rims are all wire wheeled and cleaned. Ready for paint.







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