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Not much of an update to day with anything, but this week has been a rough start. First thing Sunday evening the dry stopped working. Not a good thing there. Monday had to tear down the dry, turns out to be the dry belt gone bust. Was going to buy a new dryer, but averted that just needed a new belt couldn't wait for a belt ordering online would take a week so ran over to sear parts and picked it up for twice the cost that it would have cost me online.
That same day decided run another load of wash and wham just before the spin cycle after rinse it stops noda nothing, turned the dial over to wash and it agitates turn it over to rinse and it agitates just won't go into drain and spin cycle. Tear down the unit nothing wrong with the timer, motor, water level or the door switch. Turned out to be what is called a kick out relay a connector was burned out. Check the relay and it was fine nothing wrong with it. Had buy some female spade blade connectors for $3.51, now everything back to normal as far as washing and adverted spending MOL $900 for a new washer and dryer.
Forgot to mention I order some specialty Silicone grease and it seem one of the co-founders of the company just guaranteed me that the stuff is just what I'm looking for. Once I get it I'll see how it works and will post it here as well.
Okay after an hour I pulled 2 of them out and did a little wire brush to see if they would shine and how well the plating worked. here's a pic of the before and after.
...
Not to bad for someone who wants to keep these bolts from rusting further. I will finish up the rest of the bolts tomorrow.
Thanks Mad_sb I think this stuff is going to work out much better than just wire brushing it then greasing it up. The plating it if works out good should last a while also, since I'm becoming fond of this silicone grease and order a good size jar it should help out even more with preserving these nuts and bolt even longer.
Finally got the silicone stuff on the topper windows slide.
This stuff is a paste a thin paste, but a paste, I know you can't see it in this photo only because clear. Also I gave the area a spray of silicone grease prior to brushing this stuff on. Looks like it'll last a while as while if it is as they say it is it shouldn't wear off as easy.
Brushed inside the frame generously to make sure that it gets into every crack and cranny.
Also brushed it on the inside of the rubber gasket. This won't hurt at all, but should actually help the rubber keep soft or rejuvenate it.
I'm hoping this will prevent oxidation (rust) from returning so quickly, If i can setup a routine maintenance like oil changing and brushing this stuff on, I'm sure it will help a bit.
Since I had the Topper Slider windows out again, I decided to go ahead and get those dents out of the L-trim. No Bondo, just hammers and dolly. Went fairly decent as to getting those dents out I made while clamping them down to the topper to use that butyl adhesive to stick. Also found I used way to much of that butyl tape only need about 1/3 of what I put on the first time, luckily I have more of that butyl tape.
This was the picture I took the first time I clamped down the windows to the topper and dented the L-trim.
This is what I just finished painting after taking out those dents.
not to shabby if I say so myself. Looks much better than before. I also coated them with heavy metal red primer paint. Then coated them with the flat black.
Oh and by the way very happy with the Silicone grease/jell in between the frame and the rubber seal. Rubber seems to be softer like new and not hard like before.
You can have it for free, just have to pay postage. i'll give it a week and then it's off to the dump.
Also have a bunch of duct work that I don't need. If someone want them they are free as well. Same terms, just have to pay for shipping. Will give it a week as well then its off to the dump with the dash part above.
Just clearing out some stuff. I hate throwing them out and wish I could keep them and the only way that would happen is I win the current Power Ball Lottery where I could ultimately increase my storage space...LOL
I use vinegar for soaking parts and was wondering if you could use it with electric for cleaning things. I cant see what it would hurt. I will give your ideas a try.
They dont make appliances as good as they used to. I can repair quite a few things but after a while it has to go to the trash. Think I have replaced about every appliance in the past couple of years.
Let us know if that does freshen up the seals. One problem I see is the seal around the window shrinks and can prevent you from getting them closed and locked. Your L-trims turned out great. I have been trying to find a color gold enough for the 4Runner badge. If you find a good color pass that on if you dont mind.
Nice work on the window seals, I'll have to remember that come spring time. Your L-trim turned out really nice, can't even tell they were dented.
Thats rustED, That Silicone grease is doing wonder for the seal. I looked it over last night and it seems to be giving way better life than the spray silicone, maybe because its not drying up or washing away with the weather cooler only time will tell.
Originally Posted by Terrys87
I use vinegar for soaking parts and was wondering if you could use it with electric for cleaning things. I cant see what it would hurt. I will give your ideas a try.
They dont make appliances as good as they used to. I can repair quite a few things but after a while it has to go to the trash. Think I have replaced about every appliance in the past couple of years.
Let us know if that does freshen up the seals. One problem I see is the seal around the window shrinks and can prevent you from getting them closed and locked. Your L-trims turned out great. I have been trying to find a color gold enough for the 4Runner badge. If you find a good color pass that on if you dont mind.
Hey Terry, Yeah I started using vinegar to take rust off those bolts instead of just wire wheeling or wire brushing. I add a little salt to increase the acidity of the vinegar which help speed things up. I try to but can't always do it outside to keep out the Hydrochloric acid fumes from indoors which can cause other things to rust. I got about 4 gallon bottle of white vinegar just to do this with which only cost me 0.99 cents a bottle. As time progressed I summarized I was wasting my time. As time progressed even after coating with grease they would oxidize anyhow. Well turns out buying 4 bottles of vinegar was well worth it. I started using it to Zinc plate those bolts. They look great zinc plated and they will take a while before they oxidize again.
Yeah it seems like they don't make them like they use too or is we are in an age of buy and dispose of if it breaks. The simplest things it seems people don't want to go through the hassle of fixing things anymore just buy to replace. I've seen so many newer model in the dump or being recycled for scrap metal. I'm a fan of DIY.
The silicone on those rubber seals seem to be doing better than the spray grease. The paste is more expensive, but goes a long way. The rubber did get soft the first time I sprayed silicone grease (PB Silicone spray) on it last year, but when I took it apart again I noticed it hardened up again. After brushing on the silicone paste on the under side it remained hard when I put in back in place, but a few days later I notice it soften up. Also notice the glass much easier to slide and further back then is did before I did it this time. I guess the silicone grease is refreshing the rubber and allowing to stretch again. I plan on trying to do this as a regular maintenance with the oil change and greasing the shaft. The paste is a lot less messier than the spray for the rubber seals. I did order an 8oz bottle of silicone, but ended up canceling it. I was talking to a buddy of mine and he has a buddy who is part owner of a Silicone lubricant company and I think they have what I need just waiting to hear from him if he was able to contact him. I'm hoping he can so I can use it to grease my nuts and bolts and use as a regular maintenance product for the seals as i intend to see if I can use it on the seals that go around the topper which needs a good renewing.
I haven't gotten on the emblem/badge yet, but I may just try it since soon. I believe I have an extra Trim with the badge to try it out, so I'll have no reason to not try it.
You can have it for free, just have to pay postage. i'll give it a week and then it's off to the dump.
Also have a bunch of duct work that I don't need. If someone want them they are free as well. Same terms, just have to pay for shipping. Will give it a week as well then its off to the dump with the dash part above.
Just clearing out some stuff. I hate throwing them out and wish I could keep them and the only way that would happen is I win the current Power Ball Lottery where I could ultimately increase my storage space...LOL
I will be dumping these things in the dump this week, I really hate doing this, but no takers on this stuff tuesdays garbage day.
Beautiful Day yesterday here in South Florida, but had family stuff going on. Do however get a chance to clean and paint up those Window trims that clip on the topper to slider window. Looks much better than before all cleaned up.
Corner edges primed and ready for some paint.
Painted with Satin Black.
Vinyl clip trim cleaned up really dirty. Sprayed some silicone grease on it.
Put them all up they look pretty decent now.
Just doing small things I know, but just to keep the ball running as I have been slow in progress over all.
Finally got the silicone stuff on the topper windows slide.
This stuff is a paste a thin paste, but a paste, I know you can't see it in this photo only because clear. Also I gave the area a spray of silicone grease prior to brushing this stuff on. Looks like it'll last a while as while if it is as they say it is it shouldn't wear off as easy.
Brushed inside the frame generously to make sure that it gets into every crack and cranny.
Also brushed it on the inside of the rubber gasket. This won't hurt at all, but should actually help the rubber keep soft or rejuvenate it.
I'm hoping this will prevent oxidation (rust) from returning so quickly, If i can setup a routine maintenance like oil changing and brushing this stuff on, I'm sure it will help a bit.
This is cool, I just started reading back through your build- what is the silicone stuff you bought? Thanks!
This is cool, I just started reading back through your build- what is the silicone stuff you bought? Thanks!
Thanks ladybugRC, the silicone seems to be doing great so far. It's to early to tell how long it will last as it has only been a few days. I understand this product is very good at keeping it consistency, protect from oxidation and rejuvenating rubber. I looked in several hardware stores Lowes, Home depot and ACE hardware and each carried the silicone grease paste which can be found in the plumbing department. I just chose ACE hardware grease because it was my last stop.
You can have it for free, just have to pay postage. i'll give it a week and then it's off to the dump.
Also have a bunch of duct work that I don't need. If someone want them they are free as well. Same terms, just have to pay for shipping. Will give it a week as well then its off to the dump with the dash part above.
Just clearing out some stuff. I hate throwing them out and wish I could keep them and the only way that would happen is I win the current Power Ball Lottery where I could ultimately increase my storage space...LOL
These are now officially in the Dump... Even though I hate too I don't have the room anymore for this stuff. Sorry guys the garbage truck rolls by tomorrow around 7am.
Well still cleaning out stuff, I have a 22r intake and carburetor for sale on the classified pretty much giving it away. I got my sunrader home haven't started on that yet, but looking forward to it one day.... will post some pictures of it too.
Had to change the idler arm on the 4runner purchased the bushing and dust shields from the dealer rather cheap, but thought about it and ended up buying one aftermarket from rockauto. Turns out I was right to buy one from rockauto when i got the old idler arm off the ball joint stud was way loose. I've never heard of it ever being rebuilt, but has anyone else ever tried to take one apart.
Here's a picture of it showing how far the ball joint stud moves in and out.
Terry or anyone else let me know if this can be rebuilt. You can see the stub moves out more than 1/2"
I think I have heard of them being rebuilt but the average guy does not have the tools to do it. I too prefer to rebuild things when possible. I used to rebuild my brake calipers but now I just replace them with remanufactured ones from a part store. I will last for a while but eventually they fail by leaking fluid.
I replaced the Idler Arm and the Steering Relay Rod and just for the reason you are showing. I replaced an Idler Arm for $15 off of Rockauto one time. Found it on sale and it is still working great.
I think I have heard of them being rebuilt but the average guy does not have the tools to do it. I too prefer to rebuild things when possible. I used to rebuild my brake calipers but now I just replace them with remanufactured ones from a part store. I will last for a while but eventually they fail by leaking fluid.
I replaced the Idler Arm and the Steering Relay Rod and just for the reason you are showing. I replaced an Idler Arm for $15 off of Rockauto one time. Found it on sale and it is still working great.
Hey terry, thanks for chiming in. Like I said I ended up buying one from rockauto yeah for about $15 shipped. I just hate seeing something so simple being tossed in the garbage.
By the way did finally tow home that Sunrader and had a chance to buy a 1995 T100 for $350 to swap out the sunrader frame and cab, since it was on the other side of the state I wasn't quick enough and the guy didn't want to wait, so he sold it before I could try to drive up that way.
I should be posting some pics of the sunrader in a few minutes.
Just towed home a 1980 Sunrader I purchased last year as the seller was gracious enough to let it sit in his yard for a while until his wife said it has to go. He had another one which was probably a dolphin (aluminum build), 2 camry's a toyota pickup 2wd and a miata. Miata was for sale.
Towed it home using a tow bar and was a cinch towing. I want to change out the truck for a 4x4 which I have been searching for since I bought it. I finally found a T100 4x4 3.4L extended cab for $350 with a knock. It was on the other side of the state. He sold it before I could even get down there even though I said I would send him the money asap, plus 20% more. Though he originally was selling it for $500 then reduced it to $350.
Anyhow There is a lot of work to be done on the Sunrader so I'll eventually end up gutting it out as soon as I can organize my time.
Really needs a lot of TLC, trying to decide if I should use Gelcoat or rustoleum like I did with the 4runner topper.
This is a 18ft Sunrader with the updated Dully rear axle. Nice to have and if I ever do the swap the Axle will be coming with it. Still looking.
haven't decided if I want to remove those metal grills and fill it in with fiberglass or just try and refurbish those.
Windows need to be reset as I can see inside there are little leaks coming from the windows.
The rear of the Sunrader is the same as all the sides. More work...LOL I'm already projecting fiberglass work that needs to be done. Who ever put that tow hitch on there cut a small section out at the bottom or should I say notched.
This is the pic looking forward from inside the cab. There is a toilet and shower so that's a plus, but may need some work getting fixed up fiber/gelcoat don't know for sure haven't gotten into it yet.
Has a stove/oven haven't figure out if I want to pull that out (most likely) and replace it with just a stove top and get one of those small counter top ovens. i think it would be wise to do so because it will probably be more space efficient just to have a stove and a small counter top oven. Also has a sink no problem with washing dishes.
Most of us are aware of the design of these Sunrader, This is the above the cab sleeping area. Would fit 2 small children or one large adult cramped. The piece I believe rest somewhat on top of the cab of the truck which I can assume plays havoc on the seal around the opening of the cab, I think they should have designed it a little better. Will have to figure something out when i go to swap out.
Has a refrigerator, but as you can guess I'm sure it's not working. The white board you see there is a table top. That piece I believe also sits between the 2 seats to form a sleeping area which will again fit 2 people tight its only a 18' with a shower, sink stove and refrig.
Here's one section that will need some fiberglass work.
Going to have to figure out where to start a new thread just for the Sunrader.
01-06-2016, 03:58 AM
