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Needed to know the actual castor and camber so had to spend some cashola.
Took it in to Sears for a tire print-out of measured alignment values.
The toe was adjusted to spec, of course. $85
Even with the use of the digital inclinometer(from China) you can see the castor was different from
left side to right by 1 degree....more castor on the right means a favoring to the left.....might fight
the crown in the road. I don't feel any pull which is good.
As the "before measurement" shows, I apparently suck at adjusting toe because it was toe'd OUT
quite a bit.
I think they only did a front end alignment so the rear wheel numbers that are greyed out are
probably invalid and from a previous car Sears did.
193 degree water temp on the scanguage2.
Air intake tamp is 125 degrees and it gets its air from the plastic tube that couples into the right
fender with FRESH COOL air....125 degrees
Been driving it around on the highway and the streets with this 110 sometimes 115 degree
weather and not a bit over over-heating. Actually, with this physically 4" shorter single core
aluminum radiator with deluxe plastic tanks, it has never before ran this cool that I know of.
As mentioned in earlier posts, I used to run 198 to 204 with the long hang down OEM rad.....
then I replaced it with a similar brand new one....identical with plastic tanks and other
dimensions....and still the exact same 198~204.......Then I replaced that for this SAS
project with a tiny one and it cools that best. Nothing else changed. Same t-stat....same hoses...
same fan clutch....The fan shroud is "different" though. It hung down 4 inches too much
on this shorter rad so I wacked off 4 inches and I now have a gaping long air leakage slot on the bottom ....
so you would think that I compromised its effectiveness....yet it cools just fine ... go figure
The factory temp gauge is a joke. Your water temps could go up 20++ degrees and the needle
will stay in the same spot. So much for a pre-warning of a potential over-heating prob.
The lowrangeoffroad 1.25" spacer, the "modded" drive-shaft, and the modded crossmember.
The left side of the DS is my IFS Tacoma slip spline assembly....the right side is the 1985 FJ60 shaft.
As such they bolt right up to their respective flanges.
The cross-member I kept it real simple.
What's cool is the DS is the perfect length even with the 1.25" spacer in place.
As viewed from the passenger side.
Driver side. I could clearance this side more if I desired but I believe it will never contact during droop.
A flapper wheel will clearance it if I see contact and it will do it rather easy due to the thin OEM
material.
The shackle was perfectly vertical. Raised the rear bumper up and they both unbolted pretty easy.
Closer shot of the original shackle frame mount. I think I will add another mount
3 1/4" in front of the existing one.
Much better! Roughly 28 degrees kickback angle. It now rides considerably softer in the back.
Also, it seems to wonder a bit less on the road. Could be my imagination.
Gonna be a basic 2 story bumper with endplates on the rectangular tubes. 1st floor shown.
2nd floor. 2 spacers and the long tube...probably just 1 "bend" in the upper tube.
Here's how I always have made my "bends" in rectangular steel....knew I wanted
a 25 degree direction change so cut each side 13 degrees ....like a slice of pie.
Here's the ready to be mounted bumper....problem is, I don't have the right flat stock to make the bracket.
I will be heading to the steel place to get some 2" wide x 3/8" thick. There may be an additional
brace near the top of the bumper.
I'm finally pretty much done Ready to take a trip to Hilton, NY and arrive there on
the 2nd weekend of August.....anybody want to meet up there? I'll buy the pizza
in that small town I will drive my truck 2219 miles each way to try it out.
This is right after the touch-up satin black has been applied....the flash was
not the best to use here.
I have a 40 year class re-union (class of 1975) to go to....2219 miles to Hilton, NY. Can't think of a better
way to test it out.
ahhhh, much better. No flash. Hard left turn into my driveway.
driver side
passenger side. Tires do not hit the leafs in this direction.
I did spray paint the frame pretty good....looks like I didn't though from the way the flash hits it.
Still waiting for the cool looking rear shackles.
No trimming at all on the rear part of the fender lip....never have to with a shackle in the front.
Tire is still turned hard left....so as this tire compresses into the fenderwell it goes forward
and clears the fender. Never makes that terrible contact noise....perfect quietness
5.5" compression.....6.5" extension allowed here. Thanks Craig for the 5" rear packs.
It is appreciated.
Same for the passenger side shock.
Brakes were locking up even with a 5 inch extension bracket so I fixed it good.
One less thing to clutter up the now very clean/simplistic axle look.
Grade 5 half inch fine thread bolts. That's all that's securing the bumper for now.
Same 1/2" fine thread bolts(grade 8) threading directly into the frame for securing the ps box.
The 4x3x.125" bumper almost comes all the way out to the outermost end.
another profile shot.
I don't have a before and after measurement of lift for IFS versus FJ60 beam axle but
it feels like a 6" lift to me with another 2 inches due to 35" tires. It feels like alot. Not
enough to make me scared on the trail but it is a bit higher than I guesstimated.
I'm testing it without the steering stabilizer shock on for a bit.
The front bumper stays tucked in pretty even with the plastic grill.
Love the results! Love that you moved the rear shackle hanger forward a bit. It will help a tiny bit with your caster. Your approach angle with that front bumper must kick some serious ass! Now that the parts are painted up nice, we can give this rig one final detail for a factory finished look ;-)
Love the results! Love that you moved the rear shackle hanger forward a bit. It will help a tiny bit with your caster. Your approach angle with that front bumper must kick some serious ass! Now that the parts are painted up nice, we can give this rig one final detail for a factory finished look ;-)
Next pic will be with the new rear shackles. They should arrive tomorrow.
Yep, let's do that final mod if you have time this weekend.
Can't wwait to take it camping on the hilltops.
Great minds think alike!
As far as I can tell, it's an accurate way to check the toe-in. It was at ZERO toe-in and now is 1/8"
It's repeatable ....I checked it a 2nd time by backing up and pulling forward again while jiggling the wheel back and forth a little....came up with the same 1/8"
I replaced the home fabbed straight shackles with something that looks like it belongs there.
It's fluff I know but it looks great.
Those are 4 inches longer than stock shackles which means they lift it 2 full inches....that
coupled with my 5" Allpro lift packs means 7" of rear lift total....and no driveline vibs. Yippy!
I replaced the home fabbed straight shackles with something that looks like it belongs there.
It's fluff I know but it looks great.
Those are 4 inches longer than stock shackles which means they lift it 2 full inches....that
coupled with my 5" Allpro lift packs means 7" of rear lift total....and no driveline vibs. Hippy!
Not just to "hide" the clutter, but keep all that excess mud / water / cow pies / etc. OUT of the engine compartment from being flung up from those sweet tires!
Not just to "hide" the clutter, but keep all that excess mud / water / cow pies / etc. OUT of the engine compartment from being flung up from those sweet tires!
haha
Mud impies water and I rarely see that on the trails
06-25-2015 | 07:27 AM
I will drive my truck 2219 miles each way to try it out.
