Just need a few speakers...
#1
Just need a few speakers...
I love Ebay!! I had alot of the gear in the pic, but I needed a few pieces to complete the system. (FYI - I was big into the IASCA circuit prior to marriage/kids)
Well, I've got the itch to get a decent system into the 4Runner this summer - and I'm almost there on the equipment.
Old School is where its at!!
(2) Alpine 3681 Digimax processors - digital domain time delay, connected with fiber to the changer and other processor.
(2) Alpine 4381 remote units - allow the 3681's to be buried, but contol all of their functions.
Alpine 5957S - changer with fiber out.
Alpine 1310 - head unit - changer controller with ID logic
And for the amps - old school RF Punch. Those that know will dig it.
(2) Punch 60 DSM's
(1) Punch 4040 DSM
(1) Punch 200 DSM
Planned to be used as 9 channels.
I'm thinking midbass, mid and tweet up front (6 channels)
Mid/tweet component set for rear fill (2 channels)
"New" style Blau Overdrive 12 in the rear side panel. (1 channel)
I have 6" Dyn's for the mid bass (3" VC!!! and will be mounted in custom kicks) and Boston Tweets for the rear fill - will probably just buy some Boston 5 1/4 for the rear fill - any thoughts??
I'm going for completely stealth install. All the amps/processors will be either mounted to the roof of the cargo area or sunk beneath the cargo floor Sub enclosure will be completely concealed behind driver rear side panel. Changer will be in the center console (ditching the heater).
So the question and reason for this thread, what models should I use for the front mid and tweets? I'm going for SQ first and foremost. Cost is an option, so no Rainbow gear. Possibly Focal, Eton, or more Dyn??
Well, I've got the itch to get a decent system into the 4Runner this summer - and I'm almost there on the equipment.
Old School is where its at!!
(2) Alpine 3681 Digimax processors - digital domain time delay, connected with fiber to the changer and other processor.
(2) Alpine 4381 remote units - allow the 3681's to be buried, but contol all of their functions.
Alpine 5957S - changer with fiber out.
Alpine 1310 - head unit - changer controller with ID logic
And for the amps - old school RF Punch. Those that know will dig it.
(2) Punch 60 DSM's
(1) Punch 4040 DSM
(1) Punch 200 DSM
Planned to be used as 9 channels.
I'm thinking midbass, mid and tweet up front (6 channels)
Mid/tweet component set for rear fill (2 channels)
"New" style Blau Overdrive 12 in the rear side panel. (1 channel)
I have 6" Dyn's for the mid bass (3" VC!!! and will be mounted in custom kicks) and Boston Tweets for the rear fill - will probably just buy some Boston 5 1/4 for the rear fill - any thoughts??
I'm going for completely stealth install. All the amps/processors will be either mounted to the roof of the cargo area or sunk beneath the cargo floor Sub enclosure will be completely concealed behind driver rear side panel. Changer will be in the center console (ditching the heater).
So the question and reason for this thread, what models should I use for the front mid and tweets? I'm going for SQ first and foremost. Cost is an option, so no Rainbow gear. Possibly Focal, Eton, or more Dyn??
#2
Thats gonna be a sweet setup. All that stuff is way before my time. But Ive heard about a lot of it. If you like boston you might some of their components. Im waiting on a set of Boston Z's...Im so excited to get them installed. If your not looking to spend $1k you might look at their pro series. Supposedly they are pretty good. I had some MBQ Premiums previous that retailed for about 500 that were pretty good. Lacked some midbass but that wouldn't be an issue for you. Let us know what u get..and dont forget to post pics!!
#3
My Celica GTS I used to compete with was all Boston. Pre "Z" obviously. (4) Pro 10's. a pair of 8's, a set of 6 1/2 compontents and 2 sets of 4" components and a couple of 4" full range for the center (yep, 20 speakers).
I figured I can spend a few bucks for decent stuff, since I won't torture it like I used to...
Thanks for the reply!!
I figured I can spend a few bucks for decent stuff, since I won't torture it like I used to...
Thanks for the reply!!
#4
Wholly Molly batman 20 speakers is a ton. Anyway its too bad you dont have any hooks up with anybody thats a dealer for boston. They have the sweetest accomodation program for car audio. Lets just say if the speakers sell for 10 bones I only have to pay 3 bones I also got a pro-10 so im interested to see how well my SQ jumps up. They have a new line of subs coming out in june or so if your looking into a sub.
#6
You can't go wrong with Focals. If cost is an option, look at the CDT Cl-61a on thezeb.com. It might be the best component set for the price, $150.
For the rear, you probably don't need to go with a component set. Maybe a set of mids if anything at all.
For the rear, you probably don't need to go with a component set. Maybe a set of mids if anything at all.
#7
Sweet amps! I love the RF BBQ amps
I have a Dyn 340 set up front (It started as a 360 set, but there was no way I'd be able to get the 8s to fit in my doors without rebuilding the door panel ), and it sounds very "natural". The midbass is a little too aggresive sounding for me because I like a more laid back sound. My friend had the MD100s w/ the MW160s running off of a custom xover and those sounded perfect to me.
I really like Focals too. The polykevs are great for their price, and the utopias sound dreamy To me, the Focals seem to have a more "crisp" sound. Probably cause of the metal tweets rather than Dyn's silk domes.
I guess it's personal preference. It depends on what kind of sound you like. If I could do it over, I'd go with Focals.
I have a Dyn 340 set up front (It started as a 360 set, but there was no way I'd be able to get the 8s to fit in my doors without rebuilding the door panel ), and it sounds very "natural". The midbass is a little too aggresive sounding for me because I like a more laid back sound. My friend had the MD100s w/ the MW160s running off of a custom xover and those sounded perfect to me.
I really like Focals too. The polykevs are great for their price, and the utopias sound dreamy To me, the Focals seem to have a more "crisp" sound. Probably cause of the metal tweets rather than Dyn's silk domes.
I guess it's personal preference. It depends on what kind of sound you like. If I could do it over, I'd go with Focals.
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#8
Originally Posted by HawaiianHaole
You can't go wrong with Focals. If cost is an option, look at the CDT Cl-61a on thezeb.com. It might be the best component set for the price, $150.
For the rear, you probably don't need to go with a component set. Maybe a set of mids if anything at all.
For the rear, you probably don't need to go with a component set. Maybe a set of mids if anything at all.
Makes me a little leary in looking at the pics. They look exactly (except for the yellow) like Vifa mids I've run before. Hmmmm.
#10
Audax? I know Madisound (www.madisound.com) carries them, but I've never heard anything (good OR bad) about them. I need to see if they have some 4 ohm models, or I need to add a load to an 8 ohm somehow.
Those processors I have will handle all of the xover duties (digitally).
Thanks for the tip!
Those processors I have will handle all of the xover duties (digitally).
Thanks for the tip!
#12
Go with MB quart seperates, 6.5 woofers with 2" tweets. I love mine and ditched my aluminum Nakamichis
To power those I have a 200w Alpine 4 channel with Memphis component series in the rear.
I have a MTX 225HO that is 50w RMS but can be bridged down to over 1000w, it can be used in comp. as a 50 watter, got to love those cheeter amps. A guy in High School had 12 alpine 10s on one, I choose to go with 1 JL Audio 12w6 and turned the gains almost all the way up to the others
What are you using for the wires?????
I ran 4 guage wires to a block about 5 inches from the amps and ran 8 guage Monster power cables from that. The grounds are done the same way.
All RCA and speaker cables are Monster Cable
To power those I have a 200w Alpine 4 channel with Memphis component series in the rear.
I have a MTX 225HO that is 50w RMS but can be bridged down to over 1000w, it can be used in comp. as a 50 watter, got to love those cheeter amps. A guy in High School had 12 alpine 10s on one, I choose to go with 1 JL Audio 12w6 and turned the gains almost all the way up to the others
What are you using for the wires?????
I ran 4 guage wires to a block about 5 inches from the amps and ran 8 guage Monster power cables from that. The grounds are done the same way.
All RCA and speaker cables are Monster Cable
Last edited by Hyperlite; 03-21-2004 at 07:40 PM.
#13
Like HawaiianHaole already mentioned, Focals are the best midrange speakers I've ever heard. A very good friend of mine had them installed in a x-cab Dodge Ram, powered by a Rockford Fosgate amp (newer then your's though) and they sounded absolutely incredible, along with 2 10" JL W3's
His 6 1/2" Focals cost him $750 a pair (this was 4 years ago) I'm not sure how much you can get them for, but I would definately reccomend them to you
His 6 1/2" Focals cost him $750 a pair (this was 4 years ago) I'm not sure how much you can get them for, but I would definately reccomend them to you
#14
My personal favorites are in this order of preferrence:
CDT (top of the line ones - dont remember their model name)
ID chameleons
A/D/S/ 336i
Orion HCCA 6s
Focal Polykevs
MB Quart Q
RF's top of the line components 2 yrs ago...
Currently I have a set of Orion cobalt 6.5 off of an older RF 100g2 amp in my custom kick panels and they sound absolutely great for a set of 35dollar speakers. (Retail is closer to 160 on em - i got hookups...lol )
CDT (top of the line ones - dont remember their model name)
ID chameleons
A/D/S/ 336i
Orion HCCA 6s
Focal Polykevs
MB Quart Q
RF's top of the line components 2 yrs ago...
Currently I have a set of Orion cobalt 6.5 off of an older RF 100g2 amp in my custom kick panels and they sound absolutely great for a set of 35dollar speakers. (Retail is closer to 160 on em - i got hookups...lol )
#15
Are cheater amps back in now? Last I checked IASCA and NSPL were rating amps at their true output and not like they used to...
WOW. Old school RF, huh? Haven't seen one of those 200's in AGES. I used to compete in IASCA Sound Q and Sound Q +... then I joined the dark side and did SPL for years... I'm a big old school fan of RF... wow.. DSM's...gotta love em'.
I'll stick w/ my old school 7930 and my ProAudio 920 EQ to my Xtant's and my US Amps... 0 guage wire here....
J
WOW. Old school RF, huh? Haven't seen one of those 200's in AGES. I used to compete in IASCA Sound Q and Sound Q +... then I joined the dark side and did SPL for years... I'm a big old school fan of RF... wow.. DSM's...gotta love em'.
I'll stick w/ my old school 7930 and my ProAudio 920 EQ to my Xtant's and my US Amps... 0 guage wire here....
J
#16
Originally Posted by WolfpackTLC
Are cheater amps back in now? Last I checked IASCA and NSPL were rating amps at their true output and not like they used to...
J
J
This amp is over 6 years old and still bumpin hard. These 225ho were top of the line in your old SPL days and were recently replaced with class D amps. How do they test the true output when amp like this depend on ohm loads??????? Last I checked it was rated by RMS power. I have never seen a competition that makes the competetors show how they have their sub wired. I don't think they have a machine that measures the load. Also did you know that the power output increases when the car turns on from 12volts to 14.4 volts. This particular amp is stable at .5 ohms and will run cool and has never overheated and has no fan.
here is some stats
RMS Power measured at 12.5 Volts DC:
25 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load with less than 0.05% Thd+N
50 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load with less than 0.1% Thd+N
100 Watts x 2 into a 1 Ohm load with less than 0.3% Thd+N
200 Watts x 2 into a 1/2 Ohm load with less than 0.5% Thd+N
400 Watts bridged into a 1 Ohm load with less than 0.5% Thd+N
Dynamic Power (IHF-202 Std) measured at 14.4 Volts DC
65 Watts x 2 into a 4 Ohm load
120 Watts x 2 into a 2 Ohm load
200 Watts x 2 into a 1 Ohm load
370 Watts x 2 into a 1/2 Ohm load
700 Watts x 1 into a 1 Ohm load
1400 Watts x1 nto a .5 Ohm load
#17
actually the "ho," as we affectionately call it, only has official impeadance ratings down to 1 ohm, though I agree, it is stable to 0.5 dcr. It's ability to produce more power with a higher voltage is also characteristic of all amps that use an unregulated power supply so if your alt is not strong enough for the amps you are running that will hurt your score. But if it is, it will help your score. If the power supply is regulated (like my zapco 9.0s) it will make the same power from 10.0v to 15.5v. The HO is still a great overall amp.
Steve
Steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-22-2004 at 04:31 AM.
#18
I know what they are silly... ;-)
I just wasn't familiar w/ the " HO " designation... I remember the old 225 and 250 HCCA's... they were some current HUNGRY monsters... I hope you're running at least a 125 amp alt or dual batteries to keep it happy... And I know that they make more power @ 14.4 than at 12V. Let me know when you need a voltage regulator... I've got a few Orion ( Wired ) MBR's laying around... they'd match your amp well.
My experience w/ high current amps is w/ Soundstream... .25 ohm stable... rated @ 25 watts... supposed to do 1000 rms @ .25 ohm w/ 14.4v. I doubt it ever did... maybe close. Then I switched to US Amps, and those were REAL current monsters... then to the (new then) D class amps from MMATTS. MONSTERS, low on the current draw, but man was that some DIRTY power. Not clean at all! I was very fond of the Xtants I used... but their biggest amp back in the day only did 1100 rms... Strokers laugh @ 1100 rms.
And FYI Hyperlite... the old IASCA and USAC rules rated amps at the manufacturers claims of power @ the lowest possible operating load. I remember when power classes were really old and they went by the manufacturers claims @ 4 ohm, or the " factory " rating... i.e. your Orion only making 25 watts, my old Soundstream only making 25 watts, blah blah... then they changed the rules and started rating " true " power. I have no idea where they are now... Is NSPL still a body? I was part of the team that was trying to dethrone Alma Gates... we beat Jay Lovelace and his Creative team... Ahh... Digital Designs and US Amps VLX 400's.... oh... and 48 batteries... and concrete in the floor, and doors, and 2" thick lexan windows with bracing... and building out a dash w/ oak... DEFINITELY not a daily driver. I miss those days... I miss part of my hearing too... ;-)
As we used to say...
" Gentlemen, DROP THE KNOB!!! "
I just wasn't familiar w/ the " HO " designation... I remember the old 225 and 250 HCCA's... they were some current HUNGRY monsters... I hope you're running at least a 125 amp alt or dual batteries to keep it happy... And I know that they make more power @ 14.4 than at 12V. Let me know when you need a voltage regulator... I've got a few Orion ( Wired ) MBR's laying around... they'd match your amp well.
My experience w/ high current amps is w/ Soundstream... .25 ohm stable... rated @ 25 watts... supposed to do 1000 rms @ .25 ohm w/ 14.4v. I doubt it ever did... maybe close. Then I switched to US Amps, and those were REAL current monsters... then to the (new then) D class amps from MMATTS. MONSTERS, low on the current draw, but man was that some DIRTY power. Not clean at all! I was very fond of the Xtants I used... but their biggest amp back in the day only did 1100 rms... Strokers laugh @ 1100 rms.
And FYI Hyperlite... the old IASCA and USAC rules rated amps at the manufacturers claims of power @ the lowest possible operating load. I remember when power classes were really old and they went by the manufacturers claims @ 4 ohm, or the " factory " rating... i.e. your Orion only making 25 watts, my old Soundstream only making 25 watts, blah blah... then they changed the rules and started rating " true " power. I have no idea where they are now... Is NSPL still a body? I was part of the team that was trying to dethrone Alma Gates... we beat Jay Lovelace and his Creative team... Ahh... Digital Designs and US Amps VLX 400's.... oh... and 48 batteries... and concrete in the floor, and doors, and 2" thick lexan windows with bracing... and building out a dash w/ oak... DEFINITELY not a daily driver. I miss those days... I miss part of my hearing too... ;-)
As we used to say...
" Gentlemen, DROP THE KNOB!!! "
#20
I know very little about car audio, but I had to take a look at this.
All I can say is WOW. Lots of power, stealth objectives, sounds like a great plan.
I sat in a Focus that had 4 batteries to push the subs. There was something like 4 1500 watt Memphis amps. It threw me out of the car.
Looking forward to the end product.
My bro has Eclipse and Memphis, I have MTX. Not competive, but it gets the job done.
All I can say is WOW. Lots of power, stealth objectives, sounds like a great plan.
I sat in a Focus that had 4 batteries to push the subs. There was something like 4 1500 watt Memphis amps. It threw me out of the car.
Looking forward to the end product.
My bro has Eclipse and Memphis, I have MTX. Not competive, but it gets the job done.