Blaupunkt Component spkrs for 3rd Gen doors $35.99!!!!
#22
Originally Posted by DavidA
If I did it again I would try and cut a bigger hole in the spacer and mount a second set of the 6 3/4 inch ones.
Do you think the 6.75"s would make a difference in sound? Or would it be neglible if I've got a sub in the back?
So the bottom-line question:
Is it worth it to go with 6.75" ($10 cheaper), knowing that it'll take some cutting/fabbing and knowing that there will be a sub in the back
or....
Is it better to pay a couple fins more for a closer/easier fit?
Kurt
#23
I would stick witht the 5.25 if you already bought them, they will do mainly mid-range and highs anyway. Plus you are riding up front with the bigger speakers anyway.
If you have not bought them then go for the bigger ones.
If you have not bought them then go for the bigger ones.
#25
i saw these in the crutchfield catalog and was rather intrigued... $40 or whatever it is sounds really nice for components, but im skeptical as to how they will hold up. i guess for the price, you cant go wrong. its a lot better than $180 for the Polk db's.
#27
It is very easy.
1. Pull off the door panel. The Crutchfield manual will tell you how.
2. Remove the factory speakers, they have some adhesive on the edges, use a knife or a screwdriver to slowly pry them up.
3. Clip the factory speaker wires. The lighter of the two wires is the positive (+).
4. Solder or crimp the the crossover to the wires. The connect the woofer to its' crossover connector.
5. Mount woofer in factory hole using screws that came with the new speakers. You will have to angle the screws to go into the factory holes. Tighten down evenly on all screws.
6. remove factory tweeters. Mount using the same screws into the new tweeters, hook up speaker wires from crossover. Secure crossover to door by using nylon ties to existing door bracing/wiring. I taped the crossover down with duct tape also to ensure no rattling from vibration.
7. Test speakers to ensure you have sound and it is working.
8. Reattach door panels.
==
On the rear doors you will have to use the new tweeter as a template to cut the mounting holes. Look at the door handles and determine a mounting place from behind that will not interfere with any door hardware. Look at exposed side of door, place bare tweeter on it and trace a circle with it using some type of pen.
Use a dremel to cut the circle out. You have the option of several trims that come with the tweeter. They have different types of angles. Use the one that will point the tweeter towards the passenger heads.
Paint the backside of the tweeter mounts any color that will match your interior, the clear mounts otherwise would allow you to see the rough cut hole of the dremel.
Secure the tweeters from behind using the supplied metal clips. The teet face against the back of the door and the screws push them into the door securing the tweeters. Wire same as front.
Use the templates to cut mounting plates for the rear woofers, drill screw holes for the doors in it. Use the woofer opening template to cut the circle out and secure the speaker to the template. Mount and wire.
I used a rubber silicone sealant to seal the wood against the door to provide a more airtight seal, and hopefully provide better bass response.
Hope that helps. Good Luck.
1. Pull off the door panel. The Crutchfield manual will tell you how.
2. Remove the factory speakers, they have some adhesive on the edges, use a knife or a screwdriver to slowly pry them up.
3. Clip the factory speaker wires. The lighter of the two wires is the positive (+).
4. Solder or crimp the the crossover to the wires. The connect the woofer to its' crossover connector.
5. Mount woofer in factory hole using screws that came with the new speakers. You will have to angle the screws to go into the factory holes. Tighten down evenly on all screws.
6. remove factory tweeters. Mount using the same screws into the new tweeters, hook up speaker wires from crossover. Secure crossover to door by using nylon ties to existing door bracing/wiring. I taped the crossover down with duct tape also to ensure no rattling from vibration.
7. Test speakers to ensure you have sound and it is working.
8. Reattach door panels.
==
On the rear doors you will have to use the new tweeter as a template to cut the mounting holes. Look at the door handles and determine a mounting place from behind that will not interfere with any door hardware. Look at exposed side of door, place bare tweeter on it and trace a circle with it using some type of pen.
Use a dremel to cut the circle out. You have the option of several trims that come with the tweeter. They have different types of angles. Use the one that will point the tweeter towards the passenger heads.
Paint the backside of the tweeter mounts any color that will match your interior, the clear mounts otherwise would allow you to see the rough cut hole of the dremel.
Secure the tweeters from behind using the supplied metal clips. The teet face against the back of the door and the screws push them into the door securing the tweeters. Wire same as front.
Use the templates to cut mounting plates for the rear woofers, drill screw holes for the doors in it. Use the woofer opening template to cut the circle out and secure the speaker to the template. Mount and wire.
I used a rubber silicone sealant to seal the wood against the door to provide a more airtight seal, and hopefully provide better bass response.
Hope that helps. Good Luck.
#28
Need advice
My HU has 17w rms. I have seen your install on the Blaupunkt in the front and they look great. I don't have factory tweeters on my 97 4R . Has anyone incorporated the blaupunkt tweeters or do I need to buy the factory panel to make it work. I will aso move the 6.5 Infinity ref 2-ways from the front to the back. Are there spacers for 6.5 ? Thanks.
#30
Lmontejr - I think that you could mount them on the upper part of the door just fine. Just look at the door panel and find a good spot that will not interfere with anything behind it and dremel a hole, should look very nice. Those wood spacers can be cut to fit any round speaker up to a 6.5 inch. You just have to cut the hole bigger.
#31
Link for rear door spacers:
http://www.sonoransteel.com/96-02_4R...r_Template.pdf
You can use to install anything from 4 to 6.75 inch speakers in the rear doors of a 3rd Gen.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/96-02_4R...r_Template.pdf
You can use to install anything from 4 to 6.75 inch speakers in the rear doors of a 3rd Gen.
Last edited by DavidA; 07-10-2005 at 11:13 PM.
#33
I just stumbled into this thread...........I just got done ordering the 6.75's components from Crutchfield!! 40 bucks, how can you go wrong??!! Where I'm gonna mount them in my 89 Runner who knows, but will be parking the truck before winter (won't be taking my absolutely rust free truck into the Michigan road salt!! No way!!), so will have all winter to mount them up.
vmax84
vmax84
#34
got my speakers yesterday. Crutchfield ships very fast and good people to do business with. Not always the cheapest price, but great company.
Speakers look really good for 40 bucks. Typical made in China stuff (like what isn't anymore, huh?), but should be pretty decent for the money.
vmax84
Speakers look really good for 40 bucks. Typical made in China stuff (like what isn't anymore, huh?), but should be pretty decent for the money.
vmax84
#35
Just bought 2 pairs to go with the blaupunkt bremen mp74 that should be coming in tomorrow and the 2 kicker cvr 12s I got Saturday. I hope this is all worth it. I could have bought a decent cyclocross bike from a friend instead. I hate being drunk and going electronics shopping.
Last edited by chuckd; 07-26-2005 at 05:32 PM.
#36
PS. If anyone wants to save $20, you can type in my friend referal code at the checkout screen. i would have you pm me, but since my internet connection at home is out I'll just post it. We're all friends here, right? If for some reason this is wrong, feel free to say so or have a mod remove it. But $20 is half the speakers. Or 1/4 two pair. Anyway,
pjb0h-htt01-zefcj
enjoy
pjb0h-htt01-zefcj
enjoy
#37
Hooked up the front set two days ago. Not an exact fit for me. Well, the speakers were, but the screwing in was not exact. Certainly workable though. If you are going to drive these with anything more than factory power, I would definately recommend some bass blockers at 100-150 Hz. These things sound like they are about to explode. I'm just using my headunit, with bass at 0 gain and X-bass stuff off. Huge amounts of distortion with anything more than moderate volume. The factories were nowhere near this bad. Other than that they do sound better. I am ordering some bass blockers off ebay and going to lowes to get the wood to do the backs tomorrow. We'll see what happens.
#38
Did you get a good seal around the speaker edges? Mine needed a good tight seal to get good bass response.
I found that the headunit power is not enough to really push them. I am looking for a separate amp to power them. The headunit peaks out too soon.
I found that the headunit power is not enough to really push them. I am looking for a separate amp to power them. The headunit peaks out too soon.
#39
Ive got a 97 that is stock to the bone right now (just got it a week ago today). I def. want to get a better sound system in it. Will these sound a whole lot better even if I use the stock cd/cass/am/fm deck? I plan on getting a nicer deck soon...but for now, this price on speakers is pretty insane.
#40
O'kay, not trying to rain on anyone's parade or anything, but for about $20 more than what you paid for the speakers themselves, you could have gone to your local AutoZone and picked up a complete Blaupunkt car audio system, i.e., HU and speakers, all together and you would'nt have had to wait for delivery, FWIW.