Welding my gears?
#1
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Thread Starter
Welding my gears?
So i recently picked up my new project. It's going to be a 4x4 rat rod and the frame/ axles are going to be Toyota. The rear axle is from a 1989 Toyota truck, and I have it all tore apart, but before I put it back together I was wondering how do I weld these gears to make it posi? I've torn apart other axles but this looks completely different to me. Pictures would be awesome too. thanks
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old87yota (08-15-2019)
#4
Registered User
Do it!!! make a small plate and melt it on one side of the gears. Then let it cool and do the other side.
its a rat rod highlux...not a crawler or even a daily driver i bet. No need to spent money on a locker or even a spool...
its a rat rod highlux...not a crawler or even a daily driver i bet. No need to spent money on a locker or even a spool...
#5
Registered User
Unsafe on the street. First good turn in the rain he takes out a bus full of nuns with kittens.
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old87yota (08-15-2019)
#6
Registered User
Unsafe if you have more than four squirrels in front of it and your dumb about when to gas through a turn. I see nothing wrong with a welded rear if you know how to drive accordingly. It will eat tires and you will probably want to make sure you don't wheel hop that axle right out from under your rig. Don't ask how I know.
#7
Registered User
Unsafe if you have more than four squirrels in front of it and your dumb about when to gas through a turn. I see nothing wrong with a welded rear if you know how to drive accordingly. It will eat tires and you will probably want to make sure you don't wheel hop that axle right out from under your rig. Don't ask how I know.
My problem is...you smoke a good rear end to do it. No going back. I think people should know that is a little skeet, and dangerous on road. I know lockers aren't cheap...are more difficult for the average guy to install.
But at least you can sell it, and someone will always snap it up...and they hold decent value for a part.
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old87yota (08-15-2019)
#13
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Thread Starter
#14
You need to research how to remove the carrier and then how to reset the carrier bearing preload and the backlash. The carrier comes out to get to the spider gears but you will just blow up your gears if your can't set bearing preload and backlash. Sounds to me like you are in over your head.
#15
Registered User
Leave it all together man. Drop a plate in the gears, or not doesn't matter. Weld. Cool. Weld otherside. Cool. Install. Drive responsibly if your using it on the road. Then proceed to do burn outs.
#18
He has a V6 third member, see his pic, it is a stronger 2 piece carrier but there is no way to get to the spider gears to weld them without taking the carrier out and apart.
Sorry I just saw drop zone already answered that for me I was still on page 1
I had a spooled 67 Cj and it was horrible as a daily driver. my 89 suburban had a better turning radius than my jeep because of that spool. Get a lunch box. If you don't have the money, save up for it. You can't go back once that is welded.
Sorry I just saw drop zone already answered that for me I was still on page 1
I had a spooled 67 Cj and it was horrible as a daily driver. my 89 suburban had a better turning radius than my jeep because of that spool. Get a lunch box. If you don't have the money, save up for it. You can't go back once that is welded.
Last edited by Yotard; 05-09-2014 at 04:45 AM.
#19
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Thread Starter
Okay, so welding this will be the cheapest thing to do but probably not the most practical seeing as how this is going to get driven a lot. What about lockers for this axle? I know they are not cheap, but what is the most cost effective one?
Yotard, what do you mean by get a lunch box?
Yotard, what do you mean by get a lunch box?
#20
Lunchbox lockers describe a whole range of mechanical lockers that replace your spider gears. Since you have to remove your carrier to even weld the spider gears then you might as well install a locker because you will get better performance for the same amount of effort plus a little extra money. In a turn, spider gears allow your slower inside wheel to differentiate from the powered outside wheel that is spinning faster. In a turn, a mechanical lockers allow the outer wheel to ratchet faster than the powered inner wheel, but maintain spool like lockup if you apply power at any time...If you turn hard and hit the gas, it will still act like a spool and jump and chirp and bang but if you coast through turns it will behave more like an open diff except you will hear the ratcheting sound of the locker unlocking.
I have front and rear locked differentials in my truck I have Spartan lockers front and rear. I paid around 230 bucks for the rear Spartan locker and the cheapest I found it was on ebay with free shipping brand new. Look at gearinstalls for examples of how to install and an overview of the tools and practices on how to take the carrier out, reinstall and setting backlash and preload. Ken is a great guy and helped me out a lot.
I have front and rear locked differentials in my truck I have Spartan lockers front and rear. I paid around 230 bucks for the rear Spartan locker and the cheapest I found it was on ebay with free shipping brand new. Look at gearinstalls for examples of how to install and an overview of the tools and practices on how to take the carrier out, reinstall and setting backlash and preload. Ken is a great guy and helped me out a lot.