how much money would i be looking to drop on a set of elockers? i knew at one time because i used to work at eaton but i do not know what they would cost now?

 

3-400 dollars each. You will likely need to rebuild them. Eaton does not make an elocker for Toyota applications.

You want factory toyota e-lockers.

 

i don't know if it's been asked, but if i was gonna only lock one of my diffs on my IFS v6 pickup, would it be better to do the front or the rear? i'd rather have the rear locked when offroad but if i lock the front then i don't have do have it locked on road. are there any draw backs from locking just the front? is it hard on IFS?

 

There's several variables that determine what is the best option.

One is, what kind of locker are you looking to get?

Another is, where do you do most of your driving?

Still another is, are you willing to put up with handling quirks an automatic locker will cause?

If you are getting a selectable locker such as the Toyota electric locker or an ARB Air Locker, then it is a moot point. In that case, go for the rear.

Since a vehicle is almost always being driven forward, a rear locker is more valuable because weight transfers rearward when going forward, and does so even more while going uphill. So when it comes to traction, you want the locker where it will normally be of the most use. This is in the rear.

If it is an automatic locker, it will cause handling quirks in the rear. I drove a '94 Mazda Navajo 4wd (same as a same-year Explorer 2 door) with a Lock Right locker in the rear, and later on, with a No Slip locker in the rear, for the better part of 8 years. I even made 2 trips to Washington State (from Florida), as well as to other places. I towed a lot with it, even towing a trailer to Kentucky several times. It was a bit unnerving at times, but I was able to get used to it enough that I could anticipate it's behavior and compensate for it. Later on, I added a No Slip to the front as well.

The No Slip is smoother and much quieter than the Lock Right, but either causes quirky handling. But since I've been told they aren't made for Toyota axles, they are a moot point. However, you can get a Detroit Locker for a Toyota, so an automatic locker still is an option.

I had a '78 Bronco with a Lock Right in the front. With it in the front, it didn't affect handling. Although there was one time when I broke my rear driveshaft and had to drive it in front wheel drive. THAT was SCARY!

Anyway, although it did help with traction, it didn't help while going forward or uphill nearly as much as a rear locker would have. Later on I installed a Ford Traction Loc limited slip in the rear, and that helped some as well but without the handling quirks. However, a limited slip just doesn't improve traction in situations where there is enough torque to make the clutches slip, such as with one rear wheel off the ground.

So anyway, you have to base your decision on:

(A) Is it going to be an automatic locker, or a selectable locker?

(B) Am I willing to put up with handling quirks an automatic locker causes when mounted in the rear?

(C) Do I want the most improvement in the most situations (rear installed), or do I want in use only when I'm in 4wd (front installed)?

 

thanks for the info. i think i'm going for a lock right or something similar. and being how this is my daily driver and is going to be for as long as it lasts, then i think i'd rather have it in the front. i can give up some performance off road for handling on road. plus, i don't really want to do that to my rear tires... thanks for the help, Will.

 

I just put in a rear locker. Honestly I don't even feel it on the road, rarely does it lock. Only if you heavy on the pedal from a complete stop then take off. Oh, I have the lock right. I use my truck as a daily driver, 100 miles a day traveling to school and home. Just so you know it's all good to have one in the rear.

 

okay, after thinking a bit more, i think that i'm gonna put it in the rear. it doesn't sound like there's many bad on-road effect and it'd be way better off road. plus, it should help with towing. but this i gonna be a while in the future. i'm currently living on the opposite side of the world from my truck, which is just sitting at home...

 

ok so ive read through this whole forum and a few others and i still feel the need for a little clarification. please forgive me, sometimes my reading comprehension is not the best especially if i have been reading for hours

pertaining to e-lockers, i have an 86 pickup.
1. do i need factory or aftermarket or will either work?
2. am i stuck with the gearing that comes with the e-lock or can i regear without having to do a whole new e-locker set up?
3. are there any retail options for finding e-lockers or am i stuck hunting junkyards?
4. i have come across some opinion that e-lockers can be unreliable, even failing right after install. a guy at a 4x4 specialty yard said he talked to a factory tech about e-lockers and when he asked the tech how they work the tech said "magic" implying there are no promises with their functionality.
but no one here has had a negative experience?

pertaining to "lunchbox" lockers, IN THE REAR
there seems to be some difference of opinion on how these things handle on road in DD capacity. some say it negatively affects road driving some say they havnt noticed a big difference.
does this just come down to the type of lunchbox you get, the driver, luck of the draw, subjective experience or all of the above?

my mechanic seems to think that lockers are not meant for street driving but many here seem to do that. are those that do street drive with them just pushing the envelope of tolerances?

since the lunchbox style locker engages and disengages based on the variables of the road with no real control from the driver are there ever times when it engages and you will wish it hadnt(or vice versa)? maybe causing a dangerous situation?

a lot of you seem to use lunchbox lockers on trucks you street drive but is there a negative impact to driving on road with a auto-locker? i.e. parts wearing out, breaking faster.

sorry for so many newb questions all at once. thanks in advance for taking the time to read and for any help

 

For Toyota axles, there is one e-locker option (i.e. Toyota), on aftermarket version. Junkyard (http://www.car-part.com/) or some of the major vendors offer them (e.g. http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/index.php?cPath=25_58). They can be re-geared w/ V6/8" gears.

Auto lockers will work on a DD for many folks. I ran one for years, but finally got tired of it. They all work pretty much the same, locked unless one wheel turns faster than the ring gear (like in a turn) then that wheel (usually the outside wheel in a turn) is unlocked and you have the inner wheel driving. You just need to get the hang of coasting around tight turns on pavement and not gas it until you are pretty much out of the turn. The lunchbox lockers tend to unlock/lock more often than something like a Detroit SoftLocker which has internal parts to keep it locked longer so it is less likely to bang and pop while driving:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml#Locker

I now run ARBs and don't miss the old Detroit locker I used to run.

 

i like the idea of being able to engage the locker and dissengage it but for the price id rather just get a lock right and deal with the turning issues

 

Their strength is moderate to less than moderate and for the most part support what seems to be up to a 33" tires and a mild amount of abuse before encountering problems and damage
thats what it said on lock rights page....would this mean i wouldnt be able to run 35's

 

i was doing some reading on lockrites page and they said if you were going to run a tire bigger than a 33 you might have problems...is this the same with all lunchbox lockers or what...i would like to run 35's but not if i cant get a locker

 

wat is a good gear oil to put in after installing a locker?

 

The best answer would be to consult the manual that comes with the locker. I think in most (if not all) cases, whatever the vehicle manufacturer suggests for the factory differential is fine.

I do know that for the Lock Right and it's clones they suggest that a thicker gear oil can be used to because it acts like a cushion between the locker coupling halves, which can help to reduce noise.

 

gota love this place for info

 

Hmmm...lots of good info on here, BUT...I didn't see too much info about how long lockers last. I'm talking about, more specifically, lockers and lunchbox lockers, not selectables.

 

thanx appreciate the info thats my next step

 

I think I'm going to throw and Aussie in the front and rear. First, off to the junkyard to see if I can find a factory e-locker from a 4Runner or something.

 

I have a 94 4x4 (Mini Truck /Hilux) IFS 22re /manual and I am considering installing a selectable locker in the rear like a Toyota e-locker, or ARB and a spool in the front. I have manual locking hubs, so I'm assuming this would be a good fit. Is there any issues with the spool in the front with manal hubs, or will this work just fine with no handling issues since it can be fully disengaged? Also, when looking for a e-locker from a junkyard what vehicle will they be in and work with my 8" rearend? I'm running 31's on my truck and am pretty sure I understand that 4:56 gearing would be the best match for them and 4:88 is a better match for 31's... Is this correct? One more question... What factory setup Toyotas had the 4:56 gearing that would be compatible with my truck?Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a newb and have been reading until I can't focus anymore. Your comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!

 

Like the last posti to would like the answer. I have a94 v6 auto trans with on demand hubs.what junkyard truck should i look for?