And because I was quoted again...

Chris, I was talking about the rear.

If you coast through a corner, do your tires chirp? If yes, then it is locked together. If not, then it is allowing differentiation, which is the only term I have been throwing around.

 

Sorry for not reading that exactly as written. Is it still true then, with automatic hubs on a 3rd gen, that ARB is still the only option?

Chris

 

AFAIK, 3rd gens dont have auto hubs, they have drive flanges. so yes, the ARB is really the only choice for the front if you have drive flanges.

 

I just got this message back from the guys that make the aussie locker: "Yes, as long as you can disengage the front diff by a switch or some other
method, and drive with power only going to the rear diff you an install a
front locker. You can install a rear locker without any question."

My question was this: "I have a 1997 4runner with ADD hubs. Will this work with my vehicle since it has part-time 4wd but automatic hubs?"

I've questioned his response, but if this is true, this sure would be a cheap alternative to the ARB, but I'm doubting it at this point.

Chris

 

Here's what I sent back to him: "But, my hubs are engaged all the time even though I'm in 2wd. When I put it in 4wd I don't have to get out and lock my hubs in with manual hubs. It happens automatically, and I'm worried that if my hubs are engaged
100% of the time, so would the locker, right?

Chris"


And, here's what he responded with: "Hi Chris,

Here's a more detailed answer to your question about hubs.

Regarding the front end, the only factor to consider is the front
driveshaft. If the transfer case is in 2WD, the steering will be
unaffected even if the hubs are engaged. This is because side-to side
the locker doesn't lock but just ratchets when it needs to as long as
the drive shaft is floating. Thus, there is no load on the tires and
steering is normal. Steering becomes affected (will understeer) when the
drive shaft is loaded (connected) AND the hubs are engaged.

Not knowing if the hubs are in or out is one reason that I personally
don't like them. I'd rather get out and engage them myself. Also, what
happens when you get stuck in 2WD and can't move the vehicle to engage
them? In some vehicles this can be a problem.

In any case, just leave your transfer case in 2WD and you won't have a
problem regardless of what the hubs are doing.

Regards--John Zentmyer
Aussie Locker
Customer Service"

What do you guys think about all this? Would it work, and not hurt or cause weird steering or reliability issues?

Chris

 

Chris, I cant say for sure that it will work but, I can say that I have shifted into 2wd without unlocking the hubs and have had no ill effects. This was only for a short while though. Nothing permanent.
What happens if your auto hubs stay locked in one day? Could be a reason to go to manual hubs.

 

I got another response back indicating that they do make one for our model of vehicles, so I'm seriously considering this as a much more economical alternative to an ARB.

Chris

 

ok chris, you have drive flanges, NOT auto hubs. your front long side axle is a 2 peice axle with a sliding collar that locks them together, when you arent in 4x4, the collar should be slid into the neutral position, meaning the driver side tire is tied into the diff, but the passenger side tire is not. also the front driveshaft is free to spin, but it doesnt because when the driver side tire spins, it spins half of the long side shaft and not the whole diff.

if you have a lunchbox locker in there, since the driver side tire is attached to the axle and thus the diff, it will be causing the locker to ratchet constantly, and as a result it will wear out prematurely.

that said, either convert to manual hubs or remove the driver side drive flange when you drive on the street. if you opt to do this, i recommend making some sort of a dust cover for the bearings to put in place of the drive flange when on the street.

 

also, since you have an automatic, you may consider a truetrac. since you dont need to clutch, you have an extra foot open to operate the brake pedal. using the brakes, i can lock my front end completely, its much harder with a manual, but now that i have a 4.7:1 marlin gearset, its much easier. also, the truetrac doesnt make it hard to turn at all.

 

If this is the case, why would the company make one knowing this? I'm totally confused now.

Chris

 

I want a locker!

Chris

 

What you are discussing merits another thread since it is now a thorough hi-jack. Read up and you will find the answer.

Yes, drive flanges.

I would run an ARB. Bruce does without manual hubs and it works well.

ABQ Jim has a True-Trac. I have wheeled with him when it worked well and I have seen it let him down.

 

Sorry man! I thought this was a discussion on lockers, but I'd be willing to delete my posts if everyone else is willing to delete their responses?

Chris

 

its the same locker that works in the front of the 86-95 IFS and in the 7.5" 2wd rear axles. even if its not the best choice for your app, it will fit and its more apt to be purchased for older trucks.

 

I think it could work, but the constant ratcheting could be annoying and possibly detrimental to the life of the locker.

Manual hubs are way better, just switch.I get otu and turn em on before the trail and get out and turn em off before the highway. No backing up, no unsureness. Simple.

 

I'd be better off getting an ARB than going to Manual Hubs, because of the cost.

Chris

 

yeah, the ARB would be a much better choice, but if you are looking for ultimate cheapness, you could always weld the front diff and then put a solenoid on the vac line for the disconnect so you could disconnect it manually when turning.

just another idea

 

Can you explain how that would work with my drive flanges?

Chris

 

ok with the front welded up, the driver side tire will always be connected and thus turning the diff and the front driveshaft. the sliding collar that connects/disconnnects the passenger side tire to the diff is operated by vac.

-on the street, you would have the vac disconnected, so the front tires can spin independently of each other.
-off road, when in 4 wheel drive, the driver side tire will be the only one recieving power until you connect the passenger side tire. when connected, you have full power to both wheels. when it is disconnected, your turning will not be hindered because the passenger side tire can spin independently of the driver side one.

i have seen this done on numerous jeeps because they too do not have manual hubs on the front.

now, why is this better than a lunchbox locker up front? the welded front will not be ratcheting constantly on the street like the lunchbox would. the only thing is it will spin the front driveshaft. so, if your front driveline is in good condition and balanced, etc. it shouldnt give you any issues.

 

So, the question that I have is how do I activate this vacuum to lock in the front passenger wheel? How easily could I activate or deactivate this vacuum? Is it something I could do inside the cab with a switch?

Realistically speaking, how much quicker would this setup wear out my front end? And if it did make a big difference in reliability, what kind of costs & items would need to be replaced once worn out?

This seems like an extremely easy and very cheap mod, especially if I don't drive my truck on the road all that much anymore. Anyone else have any other comments or concerns with modding it like this? I think it's a great idea.

Chris