Hi-lift near miss today - be careful everyone!
#61
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I've skimmed through this thread and while I would love to summarize all the great tips in here, I have NO experience with Hi lifts (don't own one either). Thus my suggestion for anyone whose had extensive experience with using Hi-lifts is:
"Can someone write a list of do's and don'ts when using a Hi-lift?"
Perhaps we can use this as a reference document for future users so no one gets hurt
Bob
"Can someone write a list of do's and don'ts when using a Hi-lift?"
Perhaps we can use this as a reference document for future users so no one gets hurt
Bob
#62
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Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
I've skimmed through this thread and while I would love to summarize all the great tips in here, I have NO experience with Hi lifts (don't own one either). Thus my suggestion for anyone whose had extensive experience with using Hi-lifts is:
"Can someone write a list of do's and don'ts when using a Hi-lift?"
Perhaps we can use this as a reference document for future users so no one gets hurt
Bob
"Can someone write a list of do's and don'ts when using a Hi-lift?"
Perhaps we can use this as a reference document for future users so no one gets hurt
Bob
#63
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http://hi-lift.com/
and you can use the Hi-lift w/ Liftmate to lift by tire
click on "hi lift jacks" button, at the bottom of pager are instructions.
I think Bill Burke has a hi lift use website.. dont have the link handy tho
and you can use the Hi-lift w/ Liftmate to lift by tire
click on "hi lift jacks" button, at the bottom of pager are instructions.
I think Bill Burke has a hi lift use website.. dont have the link handy tho
#64
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Thread Starter
It is confirmed, the frame is slightly dimpled above each slider bar (where they are welded to the frame).
My greatest concern is if this could have torqued suspension braces/components in any way; enough to be causing my rig to track crooked. I drove it today and all seems fine. I guess the only way to really tell would be to get it up on an alignment rack.
Darn.
My greatest concern is if this could have torqued suspension braces/components in any way; enough to be causing my rig to track crooked. I drove it today and all seems fine. I guess the only way to really tell would be to get it up on an alignment rack.
Darn.
#66
I just kinda scimmed but a Hi-Lift is a recovery tool, not for vehicle maintance.....Be like using a winch tied to a branch in a tree to rotate the tires.....
I'd try it if I had some jack stands and a couple of beers....heheh
I'd try it if I had some jack stands and a couple of beers....heheh
#67
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Hi-lifts are a necessary trail evil. They are not a daily shop tool.
I have used them regularly, keep mine in good shape and still almost killed Steve changing a tire, at midnight, in the middle of the trail because there was no other way to do it.
I have used them regularly, keep mine in good shape and still almost killed Steve changing a tire, at midnight, in the middle of the trail because there was no other way to do it.
I have one also but I won't use it until I have exhausted all other options.
#68
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
It is confirmed, the frame is slightly dimpled above each slider bar (where they are welded to the frame).
My greatest concern is if this could have torqued suspension braces/components in any way; enough to be causing my rig to track crooked. I drove it today and all seems fine. I guess the only way to really tell would be to get it up on an alignment rack.
Darn.
My greatest concern is if this could have torqued suspension braces/components in any way; enough to be causing my rig to track crooked. I drove it today and all seems fine. I guess the only way to really tell would be to get it up on an alignment rack.
Darn.
#69
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
I've raised the entire side of my truck off the ground with a HiLift on the very tip of my slider and never had any bending or tweaking of anything:
Sure, while the weight was on it, the gap between the inner slider bar and the body pich weld closed up (you can see the contact in the above photo from the center of the door forward). That is the key feature of the design I use, that inner bar transferring weight to the body pinch weld. But once the weight was off, it all came back to normal. That picture was taken when I was pulling my transfer case out from under the truck (explains why the front driveshaft is off). I ended up having to go nearly to the top of the 60" HiLift to get enough clearance under the frame to roll the t-case out atop the tranny jack.
What I find helps with using HiLifts is to experiment with the initial base placement. I find if you start with the jack perfectly vertical, it'll end up tipping into the vehicle as you raise it. I start by kicking the base in a little under the vehicle before jacking it up. This way as the vehicle pivots away from the jack, the jack well come into a vertical position. I also normally try to place the HiLift in between the outrigger bars on my sliders so that it won't slide out to the side. When I took the above picture, I started with the jack base kicked forward so the jack angled back into the end of the slider.
Sure, while the weight was on it, the gap between the inner slider bar and the body pich weld closed up (you can see the contact in the above photo from the center of the door forward). That is the key feature of the design I use, that inner bar transferring weight to the body pinch weld. But once the weight was off, it all came back to normal. That picture was taken when I was pulling my transfer case out from under the truck (explains why the front driveshaft is off). I ended up having to go nearly to the top of the 60" HiLift to get enough clearance under the frame to roll the t-case out atop the tranny jack.
What I find helps with using HiLifts is to experiment with the initial base placement. I find if you start with the jack perfectly vertical, it'll end up tipping into the vehicle as you raise it. I start by kicking the base in a little under the vehicle before jacking it up. This way as the vehicle pivots away from the jack, the jack well come into a vertical position. I also normally try to place the HiLift in between the outrigger bars on my sliders so that it won't slide out to the side. When I took the above picture, I started with the jack base kicked forward so the jack angled back into the end of the slider.
When I had my Jeep the only thing I'd use a hi-lift for was to jack up the rig as high as the lift would go, then topple it over by push on the front or jack of the jeep so it would far forward a foot or two. I probably broke the the shear bolt 10-15 times. One time I had it on the hi-lift and i reached inside the Jeep to grab the CB, when I put weight on the driver seat the shear bolt snapped. Luckily I was able to jump inside the Jeep is it did topple over on me....
Might have been a climbing pin I cant remember but I sold the Jeep after that and bought my Taco, so I never used it again. (I didnt get rid of it because of that, I just needed a pickup)
#70
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Well his wheels was still on and with that amount of lift I doubt the frame would ever touch a person on the gorund lyning and working on the 4R. But I dunno, he can fill us in
#72
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Originally Posted by weldpro
HUH!?
I do agree with only one thing you wrote, and that is concerning the dangers of using a HL jack.
On the sliders you specifically wrote that "you dont know the first thing about these sliders". Yet for whatever reason you feel it neccessary to bash my products. Hmmmmm.............Not only do you not know anything about the products you aslo don't know anything about my business. Our background is quite extensive, and we know welding & design. We put out great products for the lowest prices we can. Along with that we back it up with great customer service, and this is why alot of YT poeple buy our products.
There are tons of other rock slider manufacturers out there, and it seems to me that one pretty much cannot go wrong with whomever they choose. More often than not a customer will go with the best prices, and secondly use the reccomendation of others. Thankfully for myself we have built a solid reputation when it comes to our products. When I started my business in April of 1998 one of my goals was to treat everybody just how I would want to be treated (fair & honest). Right from the get go we were successful, and I attribute this directly in this order to these things:
1. Treating the customer how I would want to be treated
2. Or ability to get the job done on time every time(99%+).
3. Being fair with prices (in house, mobile, product rates).
Things have changed greatly since the beginning. We no longer do portable work, and have almost completely stopped doing any custom work. I still get hit up with job offers from time to time from big business. Late last summer our company was offered a contract with Siemans medical to do all of the TIG work on a linear accelerator(SF bay area). The money was so good I wanted to cry since I knew I could not go down there to do it. These kind of things happen virtually everytime we would do a job for a business. The local job would end, and then the offer to go do other projects other places would come up. Again always such good money that the tempation was great.
The reason I now do what I do is that I take care of my kids during the day(while my wife works), and I work at night (office work during the day). My youngest will be attending kindegarten here in the fall which will open the doors back up for me. I had been waiting for this day for along time!!! However now that it is coming quick I realize that what I do right now is very satisfying. I never really thought I could sell more than a set of sliders a week, and I figured sliders would just tie me over till I could go back to work for someone else (it's WAY easier working for others! sometimes lol). What I did not count on is the customers making my job fun, and showing so much appreciation. These folks motivate me to no end- I love my customers!
Just rambling but I hope you mr 44runner have just a wee bit better of an idea about who we are.
Richard
Oh, and since I am talking I will tell you that I have had two problems in just over two years of the rock slider business.
1# The first was I sent out the wrong length 3rd gen 4runner slider to a customer in SD,Ca. He had already Rhino lined them etc. , and when it was time to install them well they were 2" to long as he had factory flaps(there are two different 3rd gen lengths long-no mud flap short-factory mud flaps!). We went above the customers expections to make 100% sure he was satisfied!
2# In Aurora Co. I sent a Tacoma Dcab customer the wrong cant 15 instead of 30. My fault again, and it was taken care of.
Not bad but I have made the changes to ensure that these mistakes dont happen again. Live & learn.
I do agree with only one thing you wrote, and that is concerning the dangers of using a HL jack.
On the sliders you specifically wrote that "you dont know the first thing about these sliders". Yet for whatever reason you feel it neccessary to bash my products. Hmmmmm.............Not only do you not know anything about the products you aslo don't know anything about my business. Our background is quite extensive, and we know welding & design. We put out great products for the lowest prices we can. Along with that we back it up with great customer service, and this is why alot of YT poeple buy our products.
There are tons of other rock slider manufacturers out there, and it seems to me that one pretty much cannot go wrong with whomever they choose. More often than not a customer will go with the best prices, and secondly use the reccomendation of others. Thankfully for myself we have built a solid reputation when it comes to our products. When I started my business in April of 1998 one of my goals was to treat everybody just how I would want to be treated (fair & honest). Right from the get go we were successful, and I attribute this directly in this order to these things:
1. Treating the customer how I would want to be treated
2. Or ability to get the job done on time every time(99%+).
3. Being fair with prices (in house, mobile, product rates).
Things have changed greatly since the beginning. We no longer do portable work, and have almost completely stopped doing any custom work. I still get hit up with job offers from time to time from big business. Late last summer our company was offered a contract with Siemans medical to do all of the TIG work on a linear accelerator(SF bay area). The money was so good I wanted to cry since I knew I could not go down there to do it. These kind of things happen virtually everytime we would do a job for a business. The local job would end, and then the offer to go do other projects other places would come up. Again always such good money that the tempation was great.
The reason I now do what I do is that I take care of my kids during the day(while my wife works), and I work at night (office work during the day). My youngest will be attending kindegarten here in the fall which will open the doors back up for me. I had been waiting for this day for along time!!! However now that it is coming quick I realize that what I do right now is very satisfying. I never really thought I could sell more than a set of sliders a week, and I figured sliders would just tie me over till I could go back to work for someone else (it's WAY easier working for others! sometimes lol). What I did not count on is the customers making my job fun, and showing so much appreciation. These folks motivate me to no end- I love my customers!
Just rambling but I hope you mr 44runner have just a wee bit better of an idea about who we are.
Richard
Oh, and since I am talking I will tell you that I have had two problems in just over two years of the rock slider business.
1# The first was I sent out the wrong length 3rd gen 4runner slider to a customer in SD,Ca. He had already Rhino lined them etc. , and when it was time to install them well they were 2" to long as he had factory flaps(there are two different 3rd gen lengths long-no mud flap short-factory mud flaps!). We went above the customers expections to make 100% sure he was satisfied!
2# In Aurora Co. I sent a Tacoma Dcab customer the wrong cant 15 instead of 30. My fault again, and it was taken care of.
Not bad but I have made the changes to ensure that these mistakes dont happen again. Live & learn.
-Dave
#73
My first thought after reading the inital posting was the sliders were improperly installed. I've seen way too many welded directly to the frame, without the plates. Even with a gusset added afterwards, the frame will still bend. I jack up the side of my rig regularly with my Highlift and have never had any problems, as Roger stated earlier, start with the base moved inward just a bit, so when you jack it up , it becomes vertical. I too have never experienced any problems with them flexing while jacking and that's with both front and rear wheels off the ground.
#74
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Bill Burke also does seminars on self extrication including how to use a winch, hi-lift and pull pal properly. I attended one on friday in Anza Borrego. Morning session was lecture and some driving. Afternoon was hands on getting stuck and getting out. My damm car refused to get stuck though , we got to work on an exploder and a heep
Highly recommended course.
Highly recommended course.
#75
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44runner- No worries. I can see where you were coming from which is why I thought I should reply to you!
Christian-
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
++EDIT++PS- Those pictures are very important to me. The reason being is that I am curious as to the size of fillet weld. Under the conditions in which this happend the more I think about it I would not be surprised if they are undersized. Now the reason I bring this up is that I know for certain that they will hold & not dimple under these exact same circumstances when an appropriate size weld is there(both tires off etc). Of course the reccomended way is to have a scab plate there - but I am still curious.
It does not matter to me if it is indeed the installers fault I will take care of it!!! I would like the pics for my peace of mind, and also to add into my installation manual(consequences etc). I could literally write a book for a manual, and I think it's about time to completely overhaul the current one.
Christian-
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
++EDIT++PS- Those pictures are very important to me. The reason being is that I am curious as to the size of fillet weld. Under the conditions in which this happend the more I think about it I would not be surprised if they are undersized. Now the reason I bring this up is that I know for certain that they will hold & not dimple under these exact same circumstances when an appropriate size weld is there(both tires off etc). Of course the reccomended way is to have a scab plate there - but I am still curious.
It does not matter to me if it is indeed the installers fault I will take care of it!!! I would like the pics for my peace of mind, and also to add into my installation manual(consequences etc). I could literally write a book for a manual, and I think it's about time to completely overhaul the current one.
Last edited by weldpro; 03-07-2005 at 04:43 PM.
#76
Originally Posted by weldpro
Christian-
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
#77
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by weldpro
Christian-
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
I have talked to Steve Schaefer, and he had said he would do the job (cut off & re install w/scabs). All you have to do is set up a day to do it. If you could send me pictures(close ups) of the dimples I will be better able to tell Steve what I would like him to do to repair it. I will pay Steve whatever he deems neccessary to get this right for you. I wont be around tomorrow but an email or PH call tonight or Wednesday would work.
Richard
I am completely floored by your generosity and customer service right now. No matter what I will get you the pictures (most likely by tomorrow afternoon).
I just don't know if I can take you up on this! And to have one of the best welders around do the work? I just can't believe it. I am gonna have to think about this, wow.