The Cheapest, Best way to Lift EARLY IFS trucks.
10-25-2007 | 02:03 PM
#61
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From: Arizona
So did anyone ever figure out anything about problems lifting a 2nd gen V6 4runner 5 speed? I drive a 1991 4runner with the 5 speed and the 3.0 and was plannining on adding ball joint spacers, an ifs truss, 33 inch tires, a body lift (as little as possible), 4.88 gears, an aftermarket cross member, and a rear lock right. Although it sounds nice having the extra ground clearance, I'm kind of hesistant about moving around drive train compenents. My truck is my daily driver so I'd like it to run as smooth as possible, (granted its a truck on 33 inch off road tires so its not going to be a lexus). Does anyone here have any experience with the drivetrain lift at all with a 4 runner like mine? I haven't ever had any clearance problems before with my drive train but I havent done much wheeling and will probobly be hitting harder trails once my truck has bigger tires and a locker.
10-25-2007 | 02:16 PM
#63
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From: Arizona
Hmm, sounds like I might just leave the drivetrain where it is and get a low profile crossmember. I really don't want to do much of a body lift at all anyways. In fact, I'd like to get away without doing a body lift at all if I can.
10-25-2007 | 03:31 PM
#65
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
So did anyone ever figure out anything about problems lifting a 2nd gen V6 4runner 5 speed? I drive a 1991 4runner with the 5 speed and the 3.0 and was plannining on adding ball joint spacers, an ifs truss, 33 inch tires, a body lift (as little as possible), 4.88 gears, an aftermarket cross member, and a rear lock right. Although it sounds nice having the extra ground clearance, I'm kind of hesistant about moving around drive train compenents. My truck is my daily driver so I'd like it to run as smooth as possible, (granted its a truck on 33 inch off road tires so its not going to be a lexus). Does anyone here have any experience with the drivetrain lift at all with a 4 runner like mine? I haven't ever had any clearance problems before with my drive train but I havent done much wheeling and will probobly be hitting harder trails once my truck has bigger tires and a locker.
ARMOR.
Fred
10-25-2007 | 03:48 PM
#66
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From: Arizona
I did mention an aftermarket crossmember, probobly bud built, and eventually probobly some sliders once i start going on my difficult trails. The reason I'd like to avoid a body lift is its cheaper if I don't have to buy one, but also, sometimes it looks tacky in my opinion to have a visible gap between the frame and the body. My truck doesn't have a body lift and if I look in my rear wheel well i can see out the other end of my truck between the frame and the body. That just looks funky to me.
10-25-2007 | 03:57 PM
#68
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Erik seemed to think this was a problem when he was researching lifts for his old runner. However, it sounds like others have had no issues. I am curious as to why this doesn't work for that specific truck, in specifics. AFAIK, there isn't anything super special about a 2nd gen 4runner that is so different from 3rd gen trucks.
You can get gap covers, as 881st gen said.
Money? This is the cheapest possible way to get that kind of clearance. You'll not find cheaper.
You can get gap covers, as 881st gen said.
Money? This is the cheapest possible way to get that kind of clearance. You'll not find cheaper.
10-26-2007 | 12:28 PM
#69
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From: Arizona
Erik seemed to think this was a problem when he was researching lifts for his old runner. However, it sounds like others have had no issues. I am curious as to why this doesn't work for that specific truck, in specifics. AFAIK, there isn't anything super special about a 2nd gen 4runner that is so different from 3rd gen trucks.
You can get gap covers, as 881st gen said.
Money? This is the cheapest possible way to get that kind of clearance. You'll not find cheaper.
You can get gap covers, as 881st gen said.
Money? This is the cheapest possible way to get that kind of clearance. You'll not find cheaper.
10-26-2007 | 03:09 PM
#71
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Yeah, it is cheap, I know I'll have to buy a body lift, its no big deal. Do most people who do some sort of body lift, bj spacer combo do a drive train lift? Are their any negative effects of not lifting your drivetrain? (besides having less ground clearance) From what I was reading on 4crawlers website, (if I'm understanding correctly) there was some sort of problem with doing a drivetrain lift on a V6 2nd gen 4runner because they use a two piece diveshaft.
Find it and post it up here.
Never seen a 2nd gen 4Runner with a two piece driveshaft, like trucks.
Fred
04-15-2012 | 05:39 PM
#73
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From: Northfield, Vermont
This is a good thread. Nice bump.
As for cost, your looking at: Bj spacers, aals, skid plate, and a drivetrain and body lift, shocks and other random odds and ends. I say could be done for under a grand.
As for cost, your looking at: Bj spacers, aals, skid plate, and a drivetrain and body lift, shocks and other random odds and ends. I say could be done for under a grand.
Last edited by rattlewagon; 04-15-2012 at 05:41 PM.
04-15-2012 | 07:28 PM
#75
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
No, all the stuff is fairly easily done and if you have it done you will be pillaged on an easy job. get a few friends buy some beer and pizza and you could knock it out in a weekend or two.
Not very many tools needed either. an 8 dollar HF grinder a good ratchet set and a floor jack.
Not very many tools needed either. an 8 dollar HF grinder a good ratchet set and a floor jack.
08-26-2013 | 03:10 PM
#77
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 156
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From: The Great Outdoors (Salem, Oregon)
Hey Thanks for all the great info. I live in Salem and have some experience working on cars (mostly my 93 corolla LOL!) but non with a 4x4, lifts, and such. Anyone close by that wouldn't mind helping a fellow YOTATECH member out??
Dont know when I would be able to order everything (depending on total cost) You can PM me if you wouldn't mind
.
05-17-2015 | 04:58 AM
#78
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confused
After MANY, MANY, MANY threads posted about early IFS trucks and lifts for said vehicles, I will put forth my experienced opinion, on having tried EVERYTHING but this lift, and an expensive bracket lift.
First, for looks, level the rear. You can do this by add a leafs, new springs (recomended), or shackles. Blocks are right out.
If you have a 90-95 4runner, you have coil springs, so either new springs or spacers are in order.
1) Add ball joint spacers, but RELAX the T-bars so your lower a-arms and steering geometry are stock. To re-emphasize, LOWER A-ARM and STEERING GEOMETRY SHOULD REMAIN STOCK.
2) Purchase a 2 inch body lift. I recommend 4-Crawler, as he is a vendor here, and it is always good to support our vendors.
3) Purchase a 2inch drive train lift. Again, 4 crawler is where its at.
4)Purchase a high clearance, 2inch drivetrain lift, transfer case crossmember and skid. I recommend Budbuilt, though use ANTISIEZE on all bolts.
Put on 33 inch tires.
This combination will give you added flex, clearance, and capability. It will not cost you and arm and a leg. It will keep your front end together the longest.
Personally, I have tried every which way to do my suspension without spending a fortune on a bracket lift, or swap, and without doing a body lift, since body damage prevents me from doing so. From everything I've tried and seen, the combination above will provide you with the most economical, capable, IFS lift.
First, for looks, level the rear. You can do this by add a leafs, new springs (recomended), or shackles. Blocks are right out.
If you have a 90-95 4runner, you have coil springs, so either new springs or spacers are in order.
1) Add ball joint spacers, but RELAX the T-bars so your lower a-arms and steering geometry are stock. To re-emphasize, LOWER A-ARM and STEERING GEOMETRY SHOULD REMAIN STOCK.
2) Purchase a 2 inch body lift. I recommend 4-Crawler, as he is a vendor here, and it is always good to support our vendors.
3) Purchase a 2inch drive train lift. Again, 4 crawler is where its at.
4)Purchase a high clearance, 2inch drivetrain lift, transfer case crossmember and skid. I recommend Budbuilt, though use ANTISIEZE on all bolts.
Put on 33 inch tires.
This combination will give you added flex, clearance, and capability. It will not cost you and arm and a leg. It will keep your front end together the longest.
Personally, I have tried every which way to do my suspension without spending a fortune on a bracket lift, or swap, and without doing a body lift, since body damage prevents me from doing so. From everything I've tried and seen, the combination above will provide you with the most economical, capable, IFS lift.
are you saying to pick ONE of the options of listed (I NUMBERED IN QUOTED REPLY 1-4) or to do all 4 of them? Also if I'm wanting to fit 33s mtrs, with a level truck, do I need to first off purchase shackles, (what size to level?) Then Pick The options?
Thank you
09-30-2015 | 02:18 PM
#79
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From: Arvada, Colorado
Sorry, haven't been on in a while. No, the list is the things to do all together. It will net you a good bit of ground clearance while helping to maintain the stock steering set up as best as possible. High angles on the tie rods ruin the idler arms very quickly. You can go for a Total Chaos idler, but this was for those looking to do things on a budget.
It also depends on your wheeling situation. I put that up as a high abuse type set up. If you are mostly just doing back roads, sand or other things, then you certainly can go with other options. I had dual transfercases, a front locker, gears, and both 33's and 35's on my truck. The steering was a constant battle.
It also depends on your wheeling situation. I put that up as a high abuse type set up. If you are mostly just doing back roads, sand or other things, then you certainly can go with other options. I had dual transfercases, a front locker, gears, and both 33's and 35's on my truck. The steering was a constant battle.
10-01-2015 | 10:45 PM
#80
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 73
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From: garden grove ca
Ike this set up is good advice . Ive kept suspension stock(no bjs) with lockers no failed cv's yet on 33x11.5's . only rebuilt the idler with 4 dollar mcmaster car bronze bushings once .very capable offroad , and reliable . my crosmember is crushed ,bent ,and lame. gets stuck on rocks alot . so the 4crawler drive train lift is a must for me .
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