lotalucas

I'm putting a new clutch in my truck and i'm looking for a good clutch. I'm looking at either the centerforce 2 or the centerforce dual friction. they say that they will hold a lot better than a lot of other clutches but i can't find any comments by anyone about them so i'm going just off of what the company says and they never tell you if there are any problems. So does anyone know anything about centerforce clutches or does anyone recomend something else.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Unless you are strictly offroad, I wouldn't suggest the Dual friction. Its not very road friendly. They hold hard and tight, but the pressure required is about 3x stock.

Stick to the centerforce 2. They have a widley known quality and warranty.

rivercat

i've got a centerforce two in the 'runner, i think it has around 75000 miles on it [previous owner installed], i've put 50k on it and not in a nice way [4.10's and 36iroks] but its still rolling. i will refresh it this summer when the dual cases get installed...

dlbrunner

I bought a marlin HD. Good price and a little more beef than stock.

nix4x4

My buddy has a freshly overhauled '93 4Runner with a Dual Friction in it. He is strictly on-road but he loves it. Yeah its firmer but I've driven it and really like it.

William

I had Centerforce Gold and after that a Dual Friction in my last 4wd ('94 Mazda Navajo, same as a same year 2 door Explorer). They are good quality clutches. The first one was still good when I replaced it. I replaced it only because I had a leaking slave cylinder (which was inside the bell housing) and I had to remove the transmission anyway.

However, unless you have a pretty strong modified engine, or a stronger than stock swapped in engine, you don't need a Centerforce clutch. They supposedly can handle higher torque loads. But a stock engine can't put out more than the factory clutch can handle, so why pay more money for what you don't need?.

If the old factory clutch held just fine, then a factory replacement clutch should hold just fine.

tc

I read a lot of mixed reviews of Centerforce clutches, and all good reviews of the Marlin clutches, so I went with the Marlin - it's working good for me.

But then, with my gearing, I'm pretty easy on clutches.

1styota4X4

i had a center force dual friction explode...it sheared the material 1/3 off the flywheel side and all the material off the pressure plate side...I wont ever buy another one i had one in my camaro do almost the same thing...I went with marlin's and its great 25k and still running strong

mikes19984x4

i went with the centerforce 2 and have had no problems with it after 35k miles...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I've had a dual friction in my '85 since 1999 and it is still going strong (I even had the tranny out a few years ago and the clutch disc looked almost brand new, hardly any wear visible). I find it works well on and off road. It is not much heavier on the clutch than stock, at least at low RPMs. Only thing I find is that when downshifting at high RPMs (above 3000 or so) it really grabs hard. With the stock clutch, you can be a little sloppy with the clutch up in the higher gears, but with this one, you need to take it easy and let the clutch out more controlled at speed. Only thing I don't like about it is that the little weights on the pressure plate fingers tend to make noise at slow speeds. You can hear them if you drive slow next to a wall or barrier.

Datsunon40s

built 223hp 20r motor, stock gears (4.10), and 35 inch boggers and I have had the same centerforce dual friction for three years and it still smokes tire I swear by centerforce your leg will build muscle because its a little harder to push but great clutch!!

surf4runner

from a street perspective, ive only heard poor reviews...

homemade toy

i was told that they are off road only or racing not for the street

William

When I bought my Centerforce Gold, I expected that I would be able to tell a difference. I could tell no difference.

After that, I tried the Centerforce Dual Friction. I still couldn't tell a difference.

When I say no difference, I mean both in the way it drove and pedal pressure/action.

It drove just fine on the street.

That wasn't on a Toyota, but on a '94 Mazda Navajo 4wd (same as a same year 2 door Ford Explorer). It might drive and feel different on a Toyota, but my guess is that with a stock engine, it still isn't needed. My engine put out stock torque amounts, and if yours does too, why pay more for a supposedly stronger than stock Centerforce? Any quality clutch will do fine for almost any vehicle.

My point is, since there was no benefit for me, I would have been better off just buying a cheaper factory replacement clutch.

As a matter of fact, when my transmission want bad and I had to drive the last 15 miles home with only 4th gear (after driving 1600 miles from west Texas with a noisy and jerky transmission), my Centerforce dual friction (which had only about 10,000 miles) smoked starting from a standstill just like any other.

seafarinman

I have had a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch in my 94 truck for about 6 years now. I have a stock 3.0 V6/R150F. The reason that I went with the DF was because I knew that my truck would become heavier and that I would not be regearing it anytime soon. It has always worked great. My truck will be getting a 2RZ/R151F/dual case swap (244:1!) soon but I am not using a Centerforce clutch this time. I have a Competition Clutches 1620 sprung six puck clutch. It was highly recommended by a guy that runs 7 sec quarter mile times in an AE86 with a turbo/NOS 2RZ under the hood.

nate9207

i just got a centerforce dual friction delivered the other day and im plannin on puttin it in when i get another tranny&tcase. i read in the good ol haynes rebuild bible that you should buy a new flywheel or have your old one machined before puttin a new clutch in. so im either gonna buy a stock replacement ($65) OR get the centerforce steel flywheel ($415). would the steel flywheel be worth the extra $change$ or would it do ok with the stock? cuz dang thats as much as the DF clutch!!!! (and YES i will be doing engine work and upgrades like MSD n stuff later on but not just yet)

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Stock flywheel is steel as well. THe CF fly wheel is heavier than stock so improves low end torque at the expense of a slower revving engine. I have the CF flywheel and it works well, helps with slow speed crawling off-road.

nate9207

is the slower rev a dramatic noticeable change? or not

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Engine revs up a little slower out of gear. In gear, very little difference.

nate9207

oh ok... well mine idles freakin low anyways. whats wierd is that my battery draws ALOT of current. if i start it up and unhook my battery it idles higher (of course but this is pretty dramatic) on the other hand if i leave the battery hooked up and turn on the heater as well as the lights that darn thing near dies. you think turning up the idle would fix that as well as the lower idle with the CF flywheel?