2nd gen SAS
#1
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2nd gen SAS
Got a 93 4runner and want to put it on at least 35 and maybe more someday. I want to do the solid axle swap and am very good at junkyard hoping. What works best and what is required for a SAS?
By the way, daily driven with mud time every month.
By the way, daily driven with mud time every month.
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Aside from the tools and fab skills, here's the parts you'll need:
front axle from '85 or earlier toy
springs & shocks
longer brake lines
front hanger, shackle tubes for frame, and shackles
any of the crossover steering kits that are out there
front driveshaft
front axle from '85 or earlier toy
springs & shocks
longer brake lines
front hanger, shackle tubes for frame, and shackles
any of the crossover steering kits that are out there
front driveshaft
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start w/ Pirate 4x4 Toy Faq's-
and check out All Pro's Instructions
also, Roger Brown, AKA 4Crawler, has one of the most comprehensive Toy sites on the web.
Eric B also has extensive info available.
last, but not least, DRM also has tons of info at his site.
Later
and check out All Pro's Instructions
also, Roger Brown, AKA 4Crawler, has one of the most comprehensive Toy sites on the web.
Eric B also has extensive info available.
last, but not least, DRM also has tons of info at his site.
Later
Last edited by crawler#976; 10-09-2003 at 07:36 AM.
#5
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Planning, planning, planning, then execution.
Assuming you will use an '85 or older axle, once you find one you will want to throughly go through it and rebuild it. If you plan to run larger than 35" tires you should consider aftermarket birfields like a Longfield.
For steering and spring hangers are you planning to get a kit? For those with fab skills the spring hanger can be fabbed, but if you do make sure it is done right, no booty fab. You would be risking your life and those around you. (Years ago I was at Marlin's shop and saw a rolled truck which had a nice custom paint job. A weld the owner did broke and the truck rolled over a cliff killing the owner.) For cross over steering you should consider getting a kit already on the market.
You will still need springs, shocks, shock mounts, U-bolts and flip kit, bump stops, and a drive shaft (your IFS drive shaft can be reworked into a long slip drive shaft.) I also needed to replace the TCase cross member. You can notch out your existing cross member to allow for more travel.
One of the hardest steps along with cutting and grinding off "A" arm brackets, is cutting the holes in the frame for the shackle tubes.
Instead of reinventing the wheel, I chose one stop shopping at AllPro. It wasn't cheap but it made the swap a lot easier. The kit I bought included everything I needed except the axle I bought needed lower shock mounts, better bump stops, and of course a drive shaft.
Keep in mind when you remove all the IFS parts your front frame will be considerably weaker. You should brace the area around your motor mounts and I have a custom made cross member that mounts just behind and below the radiator that ties the frame rails together which helps to improve strength.
Before you start cutting and grinding check and double check you have all the parts you need. The spring hanger and the tubes for the shackles can be welded on before you tear down the IFS.
Assuming you will use an '85 or older axle, once you find one you will want to throughly go through it and rebuild it. If you plan to run larger than 35" tires you should consider aftermarket birfields like a Longfield.
For steering and spring hangers are you planning to get a kit? For those with fab skills the spring hanger can be fabbed, but if you do make sure it is done right, no booty fab. You would be risking your life and those around you. (Years ago I was at Marlin's shop and saw a rolled truck which had a nice custom paint job. A weld the owner did broke and the truck rolled over a cliff killing the owner.) For cross over steering you should consider getting a kit already on the market.
You will still need springs, shocks, shock mounts, U-bolts and flip kit, bump stops, and a drive shaft (your IFS drive shaft can be reworked into a long slip drive shaft.) I also needed to replace the TCase cross member. You can notch out your existing cross member to allow for more travel.
One of the hardest steps along with cutting and grinding off "A" arm brackets, is cutting the holes in the frame for the shackle tubes.
Instead of reinventing the wheel, I chose one stop shopping at AllPro. It wasn't cheap but it made the swap a lot easier. The kit I bought included everything I needed except the axle I bought needed lower shock mounts, better bump stops, and of course a drive shaft.
Keep in mind when you remove all the IFS parts your front frame will be considerably weaker. You should brace the area around your motor mounts and I have a custom made cross member that mounts just behind and below the radiator that ties the frame rails together which helps to improve strength.
Before you start cutting and grinding check and double check you have all the parts you need. The spring hanger and the tubes for the shackles can be welded on before you tear down the IFS.
#6
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Originally posted by Terry4X4
The spring hanger and the tubes for the shackles can be welded on before you tear down the IFS.
The spring hanger and the tubes for the shackles can be welded on before you tear down the IFS.
#7
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Originally posted by Shane
Spring hanger yes, but the tubes should wait until you can bolt up the springs and put some weight on them to ensure they get welded in straight and even.
Spring hanger yes, but the tubes should wait until you can bolt up the springs and put some weight on them to ensure they get welded in straight and even.
You can tack weld them in. But wait until you bolt up the springs before welding them in.
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#8
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Thanks that is what i wanted to here. Fab skills are semi good so i might not wanna try that just yet. I am a honda tech so workling on and midifying cars is my nature. Do you have a number for Allpro or website? I was looking at beefing up the axle and re gear down to a 5.29 or something like that.
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Originally posted by dropcivic
Do you have a number for Allpro or website? I was looking at beefing up the axle and re gear down to a 5.29 or something like that.
Do you have a number for Allpro or website? I was looking at beefing up the axle and re gear down to a 5.29 or something like that.
Yeah, you will probably want to regear with 5.29's. If you have a V6 with manual tranny and drive a lot of highway miles, you may consider 4.88's to lower your RPM's, otherwise 5.29's especially if you plan to go with a larger than 35" tire.
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