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If you need help deciding between a selectable locker, such as the Auburn ECTED, or a mechanical locker read below. You can always call us at 866 349 6801 or email us at info@justdifferentials.com and we will help you decide what differential or traction aid is correct for your application.
Mechanical lockers engage automatically when force is applied to the differential via the pinion and ring gear. While force is not actively being applied, springs in the locker allow the mechanism to disengage. That is to say that when you press on the gas it locks up, when you let off the gas and turn it unlocks.
Mechanical lockers are well know for the popping and clanking noises they make when engaging and disengaging.
Mechanical lockers can be installed in front differentials but you must have lock out hubs and they MUST be unlocked for on-road driving because of steering issues.
Selectable lockers fall into 3 categories - Air, electric and manual.
Air lockers use compressed air from a vehicle-mounted air compressor to engage the locking mechanism.
Electric lockers use an electrical pulse to engage a magnetic locking device.
Manual lockers (OX) must be engaged by pulling a cord, usually requiring the driver to exit the vehicle (although many OX can be upgraded to electric).
Air and electric lockers can be activated by a switch inside the vehicle.
Selectable lockers are fully locked when engaged and function as an open differential when not engaged.
Some electric lockers function as a limited-slip differential when not engaged.
You will also get free shipping in the lower 48 on all web orders over $150, couple that with the instant rebate and you have a great deal on these differentials!
Back at it again, I need to get it running. I don't like driving my Tacoma back and forth to work.
Pulled the dizzy, removing the carburetor today; Weber mod and rebuild. Painting the valve cover, just purchased the delete plate from LCE for the Intake manifold.
Does anyone have experience painting the Intake manifold? Does it need VHT high-temp paint or can I just use rustoleum and self etching primer for a base coat?
Need to check valve clearances, timing chain and guides looked good though.
Bad dizzy. Vacuum advance is toast and the plates are rusty.
This hard line; cannot be deleted? I have the crossover block-off plate.
Hard line below the manifold removed, was just hanging there for no reason. As wel the base gasket is leaking and why I opted to buy the official delete plate from LCE
Oh no! Just noticed I my picture of the rocker arm assembly. One looks burnt, hope all is well. Inspect it after work I must. 😤 Not wanting to spend money at Engnbldr to rebuild my head ATM. Luckily his shops only 4 miles down the road 😋
Removed the intake and carburetor today. Everything went wel, but I broke off two bolts on the underside of the manifold, SOB!
I don't think my accelerator pump has been working well either, the spring was so clogged with dirt, I had trout moving the arm.
At least the PO out a Transdapt on there!
My way of not spilling coolant and having to drain the whole radiator. Going to buy new hoses, these are shot.
You can see the shiny studs where the heads of the bolts snapped off! Should be able to get them out with vice grips and some heat. As well need to remove all of the plugs that are still on it from the EGR stuff.
01-18-2016 | 09:27 AM
