toyotafiberglass - Nicks /91 4Runner 1/4r's
#2
I always like following in depth builds and know this is going to be one of them. Some of the rust you have to deal with is a work out in itself. Already know I will like the results.
#4
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got the rest of the interior out , and removed the rear hatch
also removed the drivers flare , and as suspected , it's the same as the passenger side
also , got the rear 1/4r windows removed
ugly job , I wear rubber gloves with cloth gloves over top , soaked in wd40 ..
.
also removed the drivers flare , and as suspected , it's the same as the passenger side
also , got the rear 1/4r windows removed
ugly job , I wear rubber gloves with cloth gloves over top , soaked in wd40 ..
.
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#8
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time for some test fitting
take your time .. this will take some time .. I'm about 3 hours total fitting and removing , a little trim here and there , off and on about 10 times , but you want to do this to fit them correctly
and now I'm happy with the fit ... time to fit the window
and happy with this ... I can now move on the the rust repair
.
take your time .. this will take some time .. I'm about 3 hours total fitting and removing , a little trim here and there , off and on about 10 times , but you want to do this to fit them correctly
and now I'm happy with the fit ... time to fit the window
and happy with this ... I can now move on the the rust repair
.
#9
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ok so now we have a great fit .. time to fix the rust
first I took a couple of measurements of the piece I would need to cut out . then got my sheet metal , drew the lines , and cut it out .. jig saw works great for these small pieces .
Then with the mini bender , you can put an edge on it .. a piece of 2X4 it counter edge will work as well
and although no one will ever see it , I used my bead roller to put the factory type "dimples" in the metal
and now , I can take these pieces , and use them as my template for cutting the rust out
and now tacked in place I can now prep for the POR15 treatment
POR15 done .. to cure overnight
also .. got the "glue tabs " done to cure overnight as well
.
first I took a couple of measurements of the piece I would need to cut out . then got my sheet metal , drew the lines , and cut it out .. jig saw works great for these small pieces .
Then with the mini bender , you can put an edge on it .. a piece of 2X4 it counter edge will work as well
and although no one will ever see it , I used my bead roller to put the factory type "dimples" in the metal
and now , I can take these pieces , and use them as my template for cutting the rust out
and now tacked in place I can now prep for the POR15 treatment
POR15 done .. to cure overnight
also .. got the "glue tabs " done to cure overnight as well
.
#10
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so with the long weekend over , and everything cured , time to make the sides permanent .
We use in our shop , and recommend 3M panel bonder #08115 . not cheep , but in my opinion , it is the best + it is the only product that offers a lifetime warrantee
be very liberal with it .. I use a popsicle stick to spread it out , and make sure I cover all bare metal
installed and clamped
.
We use in our shop , and recommend 3M panel bonder #08115 . not cheep , but in my opinion , it is the best + it is the only product that offers a lifetime warrantee
be very liberal with it .. I use a popsicle stick to spread it out , and make sure I cover all bare metal
installed and clamped
.
#17
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From: BC Canada
Thanks Dave ... I'm doing door skins as well as new hatch skin , + a rear plate bumper W/swing tire carrier next year . he also went away with some of my front fenders he is going to install himself , so I think next year we are doing the complete paint
.
.
Last edited by slacker; 04-22-2015 at 05:55 PM.
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