Yeah, i can see that. but that gas is always greener haha. if i lived closer i would take the tundy off your hands

 

I cant decide between 285/75R16s (32x11.5 ish) or 315/75R16 (34.5x12.5 ish) Both the same price, both about 75% tread. 285s are GY Wrangler MTs. the 315s are BFG MTs KM1s.

The thing is, I already promised the guy with the 285s that I would buy them. They are still probably 2-3 weeks out. I havent given him any money, but he is in my club and dont want any hard feelings.

 

I have ran both sets of tires and the wranglers are waaaaay better tires!
Rocks will chew those km1's to shreds if you slip a tire.

Just my $0.02

 

There ARE some nasty sharp rocks in the mountains where I wheel. I might not even be taking the Tundra off-road. If I get my 4Runner going, it will be my off-roader. The 285 is a set of 5, whereas the 315s are only 4. I would LOVE to have 35s, but it would take some work to fit them.

Hah. Thanks for following my boring build, Boredout

 

Yeah i can understand the dilemma. The good years wear a little better as well.
Yeah man: love the build! little work with a sledge and a grinder and you'll be runnin 35s in no time!

 

Oh I wouldnt be concerned about the fender clearance. The upper control arms on the front are probably 3/4" to 1" away from the sidewall as is with 265/75s. I would have to get wheel spacers or some different wheels.

These are those 315s : http://fairbanks.craigslist.org/pts/2924513561.html

Going 285s will help keep the MPGs reasonable, considering gas is $4.25 here NOW and will INCREASE this summer of course. And, the Tundra is still getting only 9-10 mpg. Heh....Filled up the other day. Went 165 miles and put in 17.1 gallons.

 

GOT THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL IN! Had to disconnect the lower ball-joint, but everything went easy and quick besides actually getting the diff to line up. Definitely would have helped to have another person, but its in. Now I need to go test drive it

 

Woo! Its nice to have 4wd!.. Really dont need it now though. The main roads are 99% dry/ ice free. The side roads are still snowy/icy, but that doesnt matter much. Hopefully the tires will get here soon.

I also put a clamp on an exhaust leak, so it sounds somewhat better. Doesnt "PFFFFSSSTTT tt ttt tt" while decelerating now.

Old diff out.



New diff in.





Those are heavy sons-a-beetches. They look and feel like cast iron

So $500 for the diff. $100 for the front drive-shaft. $12 for some nuts and bolts. I also ended up needing to buy a few tools, but I needed them anyways. Probably $60. Also, a new jack and jack stands was like $90. Someone, whether it be an old roommate or some punk kids, stole my AWESOME floor jack and really nice jack stands last fall.

Oh and synthetic gear lube was like $20 or something. Only used 1 bottle though.

 

You will like the tires much better! i promise

9-10 mpg thats pretty dang rough.

 

Yeah I cant wait for the tires. Should be here in a week or two.

 

Ordered these clear corner lights on Friday. Got them today (Wednesday). FAST SHIPPING to Alaska. Haha.

 

Looks alot better with out duct tape all over them

 

I took out the small factory resonator in the exhaust, ran new 2.5" pipe and put the glass-pack right where the two sides of the exhaust meet (about half-way under the cab) and dumps right above the rear axle. That joint is also where I was/am getting leakage because it cracked in half there, most likely in the roll-over. I cant seem to seal it up right. I'll work on it more this weekend.

I think its TOO loud though.....

 

I bought a set of 4 coil springs and 4 shocks from an '08 Jeep Rubicon, basically brand new as the guy lifted it shortly after he bought it in '08. I'm going to attempt to use the coils for a ZUK rear lift. Also, my rear shocks are pretty shot and 2 of the shocks fit perfectly. The other 2 will go on the rear of my buddy's '97 Taco as his shocks are crap. $40, cant complain.

Earlier this week I started to get a grinding and vibration coming from the front end. Then on thursday as I was driving around, I started to lose brake pressure and had a HORRIBLE grind and brake fade while stopping once I got below 10mph. AND, while turning past 1/2 turn, I got this terrible grind and bind.
Today I checked it out. The passenger side wheel bearing is shot. I BELIEVE its from me not tightening the nut on the end of the CV shaft back down. I didnt realize that nut held pressure on the wheel bearings. I didnt tighten it back down because it started to cross-thread. It was a PITA to get off. Its really stripped!. I going to have to change the CV shaft just so I can tighten it back down...



The old shock. I compressed it and it wouldnt expand back out :\



I only got one on because I was getting tired.

 

i love the truck man! i wish i came across a deal like that. Ive been dreaming about a truck like this for awhile now.

did you get the tires?

 

Thanks man. No tires yet. Long story. Kind of frustrating, but understandable. I will get them eventually.

A few things in the last few weeks-
Passenger-side wheel bearing went out. Almost fell off on the way home from work during rush hour. Had to have a tow-truck bring me the last 2 miles home. Thank god for AAA! I took my knuckle in to a local drive-line specialist shop and had them press in a new TOYOTA bearing and seals. $56 for 30 mins of labor, $26 for a seal I forgot to pick-up (luckily they had one in stock ), $103 for an OEM bearing, $56 for OEM inner seal and $155 for a remanned CV from O'Reilley's. In hindsight, I should have gone to NAPA for the CV as they are only like $75, but they werent open still when I was putting it back together :\.

I went camping this last weekend; camping back in the woods about 5 miles on a small, skinny trail. My truck took it fine. But, the power steering started leaking like crazy on the way home after doing a few 10-point turn-arounds. So, I went to TOYOTA to get a hose. They only sell the entire PS hose assembly, not individual hoses. They referred me to a local shop that does hydraulic work and what not. They said they usually thread the hard-lines and put threaded fittings on the hoses. Well, my hard-lines were cracked, so I opted to get the entire assembly. $443.

I mostly finished my rear bumper. There are still a few things I want to do to it, but for now, its good. Shes running okay. Seems to run better after taking the intake piping apart a few times while messing with the power steering.

I bought some plate steel and various pieces from work for skid plates and to start the front bumper. We'll see how much energy I have this weekend

 

Hey did you every ZUK it? I want to zuk my 2000.

 

No. I am waiting until after I get my tires to see if I really need/want to. Yesterday I was just playing around, measuring and what not, I think ZUKing might lift it TOO much, even with the 2" front spacers I have. The rear spring design is kind of weird. I dont know. I will probably try it, though.

 

I talked to zuk he said that his friend did one a tundra and it gave her almost 2" and that was with a 10" 150 spring. I think thats what I wil try

 

OH right on! I want to lift my truck more, anyhow. But cant right now... so 2-4" from a ZUK would be awesome.