KD7NAC_07FJ's 2007 FJ Cruiser Build-Up Thread
#82
Before
And yes I blacked out the bezel. I got to looking at it and it looked like someone has been shooting bb's at it so I cleaned it up preped it and painted it.
I don't have the fog lights wired up yet because, well by now y'all should know I don't care much for the cheap-o wiring that comes in the kits. So I'll be building a harness for them this evening. Won't take much since everything but the power lead is already there from my switch box mod.
Oh and I'm off to get the factory skid plate powdercoated. Too big to fit in my oven
And yes I blacked out the bezel. I got to looking at it and it looked like someone has been shooting bb's at it so I cleaned it up preped it and painted it.
I don't have the fog lights wired up yet because, well by now y'all should know I don't care much for the cheap-o wiring that comes in the kits. So I'll be building a harness for them this evening. Won't take much since everything but the power lead is already there from my switch box mod.
Oh and I'm off to get the factory skid plate powdercoated. Too big to fit in my oven
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is why I will be fabricating a HiLift mount for the front of my bumper so it will sit above the fairlead and below the bull bar. But that is a mod for another day
Oh and you have to order them. There is a reseller in Washington but they just order them, tack on a handling charge and drop ship them to you. I just went to AutoHome and ordered mine and they shipped it directly to me. They do come from Italy so if they are out it could take 30 days to get one. It was worth the wait for me but you'll have to decide that for yourself.
Last edited by KD7NAC_07FJ; 05-28-2007 at 09:11 PM.
#84
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So - someone was asking about the powder coated factory skid plate.
Here is the gap from the front;
From the side;
And looking directly up at it;
I'm happy with it with one exception. I will be trimming off the corners so the factroy anchor points can be used from the side;
Here is the gap from the front;
From the side;
And looking directly up at it;
I'm happy with it with one exception. I will be trimming off the corners so the factroy anchor points can be used from the side;
Last edited by KD7NAC_07FJ; 06-02-2007 at 12:07 PM.
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DRL Switch
Like so many others I want to be able to turn off my DRLs. Eventually I will be moving the DRL circuit to separate lights on the bumper but for now to keep the gate guards happy I added a switch using the OEM "Auxiliary" light switch (fog light switch) from Man-a-fre and built a harness from the four pigtails.
The two Yellow wires are spliced together and are the switched power leads.
The Black is ground for the LED
The White is the power feed lead.
My intention was to have the switch light up when the lights were on but the switch is set up to be lighted when the dash lights are on so the way I have it wired now the light is very dim. There is a power drop off when the DRL circuit energizes and its constant current isn't enough to light the LED fully. I may just end up wiring the switch's LED to the dash lights but I'm still thinking on that one.
Behind the left light assembly is where the DRL Resistor is located.
You can see in this picture the blue/grey and white/grey wires and the plug that plugs into the resister just behind it. If you wanted to disable the DRLs entirely all you would really need to do is disconnect this plug.
I cut the blue wire (no the FJ didn't explode ) and spliced in the new switch harness. The white wire goes to the blue/grey side coming from the FJ. The yellow wire goes to the blue/grey side coming from the resistor plug.
After pulling the wires, soldering/heat shrinking all connections and looming the harness back to the firewall I ended up with this;
The new harness is on top of the wire cutters shown in the picture and the old harness is below them.
And the switch takes up the blank off to the right of the clutch start cancel switch like this;
Now I can switch my DRLs on and off at will
What I still need to find is the little vinyl letters someone had used here. Then I can put "DRL" on the switch.
The two Yellow wires are spliced together and are the switched power leads.
The Black is ground for the LED
The White is the power feed lead.
My intention was to have the switch light up when the lights were on but the switch is set up to be lighted when the dash lights are on so the way I have it wired now the light is very dim. There is a power drop off when the DRL circuit energizes and its constant current isn't enough to light the LED fully. I may just end up wiring the switch's LED to the dash lights but I'm still thinking on that one.
Behind the left light assembly is where the DRL Resistor is located.
You can see in this picture the blue/grey and white/grey wires and the plug that plugs into the resister just behind it. If you wanted to disable the DRLs entirely all you would really need to do is disconnect this plug.
I cut the blue wire (no the FJ didn't explode ) and spliced in the new switch harness. The white wire goes to the blue/grey side coming from the FJ. The yellow wire goes to the blue/grey side coming from the resistor plug.
After pulling the wires, soldering/heat shrinking all connections and looming the harness back to the firewall I ended up with this;
The new harness is on top of the wire cutters shown in the picture and the old harness is below them.
And the switch takes up the blank off to the right of the clutch start cancel switch like this;
Now I can switch my DRLs on and off at will
What I still need to find is the little vinyl letters someone had used here. Then I can put "DRL" on the switch.
Last edited by KD7NAC_07FJ; 12-16-2007 at 09:17 AM.
#88
FJ Cruisers come from the factory with a rear locker only if you order the e locker.
Here are the specs and options when ordering.
https://www.yotatech.com/wiki_pics/fjc/fj_specs.pdf
Here are the specs and options when ordering.
https://www.yotatech.com/wiki_pics/fjc/fj_specs.pdf
#89
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NorCal!
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"They call it a, high hide, it takes you up high in the trees and gets you out of harms way!....." "actualy it puts you in convenient biting range!"
-jurassic park, the lost world
that immediatly popped into my head when i saw that, its a prety neat idea.
#91
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dirty Parts in Culver City http://www.dirtyparts.com/index-old.asp has a very complete Dual Battery setup or you can buy the parts from Wrangler. Use this tray from the Chevy kit for Optima batteries http://www.wranglernw.com/pc-6348-79...1996-1999.aspx
#93
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dirty Parts in Culver City http://www.dirtyparts.com/index-old.asp has a very complete Dual Battery setup or you can buy the parts from Wrangler. Use this tray from the Chevy kit for Optima batteries http://www.wranglernw.com/pc-6348-79...1996-1999.aspx
Thanks appreciate the complement
#94
Not Hams??????
I keep looking at the space above the visors and wishing for a shelf, but so far, I haven't tackled that...
73,
dale de W5WI
#95
Roof Mount Tent
Did you add the Yakima towers, etc. to the OEM roof rack to mount your tent?
We are looking to buy a roof top tent and your install looks very practical.
Did it affect your mileage in highway driving?
thanks
dale
We are looking to buy a roof top tent and your install looks very practical.
Did it affect your mileage in highway driving?
thanks
dale
#96
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But... A bunch of us ARE hams and would like to see your radio install! I've done most of the Painless install based on your and others experience but I am pondering on where to put the radio(s).
I keep looking at the space above the visors and wishing for a shelf, but so far, I haven't tackled that...
73,
dale de W5WI
I keep looking at the space above the visors and wishing for a shelf, but so far, I haven't tackled that...
73,
dale de W5WI
The head unit is mounted on a bracket that I made. It sits just below the shifters (Manual Trans).
I put the small Radio Shack external speaker just behind the mirror (there is a pic posted earlier). It was a simple matter to fish the cable up the right A post and it is light enough that it is just screwed to the headliner with a couple of sheet metal screws with quick clips behind them.
The Airland is specifically designed to be their most aerodynamic model and I did not notice any change in mileage or noise for that matter. It only weighs 150 pounds so it is less the cargo I typically carry around
Last edited by KD7NAC_07FJ; 07-03-2007 at 11:19 AM.
#99
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Everett
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In cab Winch Controls
Finally reworked the wiring diagram and put in my in-cab winch controls
In/Out switch
Master Arm Switch
In/Out switch
Master Arm Switch
Last edited by KD7NAC_07FJ; 12-16-2007 at 09:18 AM.