Ian Rogers

e-mailed you

Texas_Ace

Got them, thanks a lot. Will report how they work this weekend hopfully.

I do have a question for all of you though. My ECU being in learning mode seems to give me fits, but none of ya'll seemed to have this problem.

Did ya'll tune the URD while it was in learning mode or did you wait for it to even out first?

Which should i do? Both seem to have the good and bad. Tuning it while in learning mode will mean that the ECU might leanr a "better" tune faster. But it also causes a lot of inconsistancys.

Where as waiting for it to finish learning and then tuning it will be much more consistant and in a way easier will the tune be as good?

How did ya'll do it?

Ian Rogers

i re-set the ecu every time i make a change in the map. if I change one cell i don't re-set, but if i make a lot of changes i reset. The best thing about the 7th is you only tune boost, so there is just not that much map to tune.

Ian Rogers

There are going to be parts of my map you will never get into, because I can lug the engine more with the stick shift. I might have more timing pulled then you will need because of this. I don't know how the Auto will shift, also i don't know if the auto will let you red line, i hit the rev limerter at 5650 rpms so i have to tune red line as well.

Texas_Ace

Good point, speedy you have an auto right? Your maps might work better after all if you have them within easy reach anyways lol.

I will have to make changes to whatever i use, i just want a good base. See i am the kind of guy that can fine tune anything but i have a hard time doing most things from scrtach. just the way i am lol.

Texas_Ace

Ok, i got good news, bad news and other news.

First the good. I got the exahust leak fixed today. I also got the urd O2 sensor calibrator today, plan to wire it in tomorrow.

I was also able to get rid of my cel from the new high-flow cat. I used this link that Goat sent me:

https://www.yotatech.com/50697664-post28.html

I wired it like the top picture in the link in the link. Total of $6 at radio shack and it is all wired up nice and neat. Cleared the cel and it has not come up again yet. Looking at the votages of the o2 sensors I doubt it will either.

Now the bad news. When i replaced the fuel pump i mixed up the low pressure fuel lines (just like URD said is easy to do) i even had them marked but somehow i still got them mixed up. URD said that it can cause major problems and that is just what is happening. My question is what problems? and how to fix it?

So when my truck started dieing for no reason i looked under the car and found gas pouring out of somewhere above the tank, Checked everything and the hoses got mixed up, so i corrected it. But even now it is running pretty strange. Seems to have a lot of mini back-firing at idle running real lean and overall just not the same.

On top of the o2 cel i also threw a cel for running too lean? Yet my AFR gauge has never shown it running too lean, just the normal AFR hunting it has been doing. It was actually running ricjer on my gauge when it threw the code. I think it might be that the exahust leak was screwing up the O2 sensor.

The only reason i question it is that the people at the exahust shop said that my exahust was REAL hot.

So any ideas why the exahust was so hot? hot enough to burn threw gloves? or why it is running strange now?

If it doesn't get better i think i am going to run a compression test and just make sure everything is still fine inside. I know it was 190 across all of them when i did it last a few months ago.

seaofnames

All of that running lean will make your EGT's rise like a mofo. Like speedy said, the stock fuel pump worked fine for him. Now your computer is trying to control the extra fuel being dumped into the injectors; it might be trying to lean it out because of this.

Have you done the deckplate mod? Might help to have a bit more air capacity if its needed. I know the stock filter flows fine and such, but with all of the fuel you are dumping in, it wouldnt hurt to have a bit more air.

Texas_Ace

Thats just it, my AFR gauge never showed it running lean, that is why i can't figure out why it threw that code.

I mean it has been running a little lean but nothing that bad has to be a heck of a lot better then the stock supercharger bolt on.

I already have a short ram intake so air is not a problem, it gets about as much as possible.

right now the biggest problem is the fuel line mix up, i have no idea what happend of how to fix it.

project91

Haters....cool build. How much seat-o-the pants power?

Greedy

A lean code is caused most of the time by a vacuum leak or a dirty/faulty maf sensor. I would check those really carefully first as they are cheap and easy to fix.

Ian Rogers

i would really check the throttle body gasket, i installed mine backwards and had the same problems for about 1 month. I checked it and sure enough it was in wrong. When i had it in wrong i was running lean i should say that the ecu was adding fuel even just driving down the freeway in vacuum Once i got this problem worked out every thing was great. I would check this gasket if it were mine truck, then may be clean the MAF. Are you running the stock air filter, if not you might want to give that i go. I am running the stock air box and stock filter w/the elbow mod.

Speedy

Ace,

I hate to say this, as I want to be supportive of you, but maybe you need to get some local help. You seem to be having a lot of issues, and most seem to be caused by small mistakes that end up causing you grief. I was afraid that fuel pump would cause you problems. I'm still confused as to why you even installed it before finding out you definitely needed it.

I'll send you my map as I do have an auto. Just e-mail me from my site. But as they say, use at your own risk.

Texas_Ace

Off the charts! this thing really moves now and i don't even have it tuned or the 2.2 pulley yet!

Good suggestions, i will check both today. Maf could be dirty, i would not put it past it. And i would not doubt a vacume leak in the slightest.

Though it threw this code either after i tried to fix the exahust leak and made it MUCH worse or after i mixed up the low pressure fuel lines. Not sure which as i had both an O2 cel and the lean cel. Not sure which came when.Will check both though and report back.

I will pull it and check that later today then. And by backwards do you mean like one side is supposed to face the TB and the other the SC? or do you mean upsidedown?

I am still quite sure it is right side up but seeing as i mixed the fuel lines up i would not put it pask me to put that in wrong as well lol.

Texas_Ace

LOL, no offence taken. And really it is too bad there is no local help to be had (trust me, i have asked and looked, no one around here knows as much as me about supercharging a 4runner much less more, most are surprised that i can supercharge it)

I am a magnet for small problems and mistakes, mainly because i am in too much of a hurry most of the time. I will fully admit i am not as carful sometimes as i should be. Usually it is the small things that get me, those things that you think there is no way you could mess up so i don't really think about it when doing it, then later relize i did it wrong.

The big things that i know would be easy to mess up i usually do pretty good because i take my time and make sure i do it right. Yes, i know i need to learn from this, it is something i have had a problem with my whole life.

As for the fuel pump, well the only part that caused me problems was that i mixed up the lines, otherwise it works perfectly. And the reason that i did it is have this thing about parts that might help me later down the road just sitting sround.

This is the reason i do way more maintnessce then i need to (aka changing all fluids every few years, doing all the little things that normally you wait until they brake to fix).

In the case of the fule pump, this is one thing that has always been a must do on other boosted car i have worked on, not a do it if you need it. I also saw a car once blow a $5000+ engine due to a stock fuel pump. Everything was going great, tuning it and on the last pull actully he took the RPM's a little higher then normal and hit the fuel pumps "wall" car leaned out and detonated, shot a piston threw the block and he had to start all over.

Needless to say i learned from that and don't care to experiance it myself.

I will send you an e-mail in a little bit, thanks.

Oh, and thanks to EVERYONE for sticking with me and helping me get this running right. I am also real picky and make a big deal out of small problems a lot of the time.

Texas_Ace

Ok, so i pulled my TB to look at the gasket.

First off i can't see how you CAN put it on backwards? i mean it is not like there is anything that will change being one way or the other from what i can see. The SC side has a round hole, no other air ducts so as long as the TB gaskect seals it would seem to me that it would not matter how it is?

Here is how mine was:



Sould it be like this?



Don't see how either way would effect anything personally but i will take ya'lls word for it. Remember i have a 1st gen SC, that could be differnt then the 2nd gen. On mine it is 1 round hole, no other holes on the SC side.

I also called URD about me mixing up my fuel lines and gadget said he has never personally done that and only heard of it 2 times, i feel so lucky to be one of the few to make this mistake! lol

Texas_Ace

I figured out where the gas was coming from and what my problems were since messing up the fuel lines. The gas got put into that black Evap box. I pulled it out and it was full of gas, i drained it and then blew it out.

This box was venting all the extra gas into the frame, and it then ran back ot the gas tank before leaking out which it why i though it was a leak at the tank.

It was also putting raw gas into the engine via the vacume line.

I have it drying now, as soon as i figure out exactly how that gasket goes on i will start it up and see if it fixes my problems.

Texas_Ace

Ok, i got it back together and did find one small problem, i had the vacume line to the evap system installed after the MAF instead of before. I fixed that.

I then started it up and for about 5 seconds it idled RIGHT AT 14.7, then it went back to it's normal hunting all over the place. Just like the first time after i got the SC installed. Except it stayed even more lean this time.

So i drove it around and like the first time it was lean for baisc puttering around as a whole. Usually 15.x for just normal puttering. But if i went WOT it would drop rich off the AFR gauge at times usually around ~10.4 (with a noticeable loss of power compared to the 11.X i had it running before).

And even with it only running a tad lean the EGT must have gone WAY up because the insalation on the firewall next tot he exahust was smoking when i got home, considering i have put about 200 miles on these headers before this without a problem i think they got HOT. Tomorrow i am going to get a termal thermomiter and check the temp.

The good news though is that the bucking, dieing, and backfiring all seem to be gone since cleaning out the evap.

I do however think i *might* have found a vacume leak. I have the 1st gen supercharger and unlike the 2ng gen the by-pass valve is external. Where this valve connects to my supercharger seems lose (only those that have a 1st gen will understand) i am woundering if the o-ring that is on it could be bad and make a perfect vacume leak right there.

That would explain a LOT if so. I am going to try a few things to see if it is tomorrow. Spray some brake cleaner on it and see what happens. I actually hope that it is leaking, at least that will explain all my problems that i have been having and that it was not my fault.

We will see tomorrow.

Ian Rogers

I can't remember witch way is the right way. If you pull the TB back you will see witch side need to be covered. Look at the bottom of the TB, that is where the difference is. I think "think" is the second way but i would have to go pull my tb to be sure. if its backwards there will be a small vacuum leak on the bottom of the TB.

Texas_Ace

I ended up pulling the TB allt eh way off (i hoped to just unbolt it and not actually remove anything) and figured it out. And it was on right before.

I am hoping that the leak is on the bypass valve.

So when ya'll drive around your AFR's really stay RIGHT at 14.7? they don't move at all? Not even when you reset the ECU?

Speedy

Nope, when I'm on light throttle I'm right at 14.7:1 (maybe 14.5 or 14.8 but not off from that).

You must have a vacuum leak somewhere.