mt_goat

Glad we got that straight, too bad they didn't keep them the same with both models.

Texas_Ace

Oh, finding the time to tune is not the problem, nor is tuning it. I plan to tune it tomorrow actually.

I just want to see how it does stock so i can get an idea of where i need to tune it. This is what URD shggests actually. Plus with the ECU in learning mode it was making it real hard to get consistant numbers. Every run would change a fair amount even if i didn't change anything. Heck even at idle it goes from 14 - 16 at random.

Yeah, you would think that they would have.

Speedy

Yep, right around 30 hours, of course that included all the wiring, etc as well, but just getting them mounted was at least 2/3 of the time involved. I'm ANAL and wanted it to appear factory, that's how I do everything. It's a blessing and a curse.

I had to custom make a bracket for the radio to mount it on the bottom. It was pretty easy to do. I just used an old radio bracket and trimmed as needed. I then used aluminum bar stock to build the brackets for the gauges.

Speedy

Make sure to get all the pinging out. That's the most detrimental to the motor short term. I wouldn't drive it very much at all without some timing adjustment.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, i have got a friend like that, we can't work together. He is always wanting to do everything perfect and i want to do it good enough and get it done.

We both have our place. some things i will let him do and some things i will do better (aka, actually get them done, he has countless projects that will never get done that i could finish in a day or 2).

I have actually not heard it ping yet. Course i am running 93oct gas and iI have 2 large cans of oct booster i had laying around in it. So by my guess i am running 96 - 99 oct gas.

And i left the stock timing map in place, i just zeroed out the fuel map. but i won;t be driving it hard today, the hardest it might get is getting on the highway. It is also cold out so even less chance of ping.

mt_goat

Or even better, why not name them map T and map F.

Texas_Ace

Best idea yet!

Texas_Ace

ok, so i had more time today then i thought i would and did some tuning.

I have the AFRs down below 13 under boost now and under 12 for high boost. Just need to fine tune it now.

The real problem i have run into is that my truck seems to go into open loop strange. Whenever i let OFF the gas it goes into open loop and only goes into open loop when i have the gas to the floor. that normal? Due to this is is harder to keep the AFR's consistant.

Speedy, you have more or less my same setup, if you wanted to send me your maps i would not complain. My maps are working but all they are is using th autofil option and putting is some guesstments that happened to be pretty close.


Now the only thing bad i have noticed is that i get a misfire/stumble at random places for random reasons. Not ping but like a misfire. not much and usually when at part throttle in low RPM's when free revving.

Now i do have a small exahust leak where the shop welded my header flange, this is making things sound a bit differnt then normal, add to that the new sounds of the SC and i am not sure what is normal and what is not.

There is also a funny smell i am getting here and there after i make a run, but i think that is due to the exahsut leak being before the cat.

mt_goat

Pretty normal, should go into open loop at about 80% throttle IIRC and during hard decelerations.

Speedy

Yep.

Get the exhaust leak fixed. You'll need a good ear to get it tuned correctly and an exhaust leak won't help things.

Texas_Ace

Well then i guess i am on, i will need to get that AFR calabrator though, it is running SUPER lean in close loop. Like off the charts lean until it hits open loop/the 7th injector kicks in. Might need to have the 7th come on early before boost if it keeps up.

Yeah, i plan to take it to the shop tomorrow. It didn't leak for the first few days but i guess after a few heat/cool cycles it decided to start. It is sloly getting worse, looks like one of the welds popped and is growing. At least it is easily fixable!

Texas_Ace

Well i was out doing some "Tuning" and decided to take it out of 4wd to see if i really needed to have that engaged.

Well i was on a back-road and stepped on the gas, not even to the floor, and boy howdy! it lit up the back end!

Said i was going 70+mph when i was doing about 5 and kept spinning for a good few hundred feet! considering that no matter what i did before the SC it would not even chirp the tires i have to say it has just a little more power lol.

I have even got it to chirp the tires in 4wd, THAT was impressive, and i still have to install the 2.2 pulley!

Speedy

Something's wrong then. It should be 14.7:1 in closed loop no matter what without the AFR Calibrator. Even if you add fuel in closed loop the stock ECU will just remove fuel from the stock injectors to maintain 14.7:1. I know this from experience.

If you're going lean in closed loop there is an issue somewhere.

Texas_Ace

that is very possible, but what could it be?

It does stay right at 14.7, within +/-.5 anyways, when idling but any type of driving and it goes all over the place, virtually always lean unless i drive the exact same speed/RPM for a litle bit then it will even out to about 14.7. But during normal driving it likes to stay pretty lean for some reason.

Tomorrow i plan to do some more work on it and have to get the exahust fixed anyways. I will pay close attention tot he AFR's when driving in closed loop and see what they do.

I wounder if maybe my O2 sensor could be bad? How to test that though seeing as they are not cheap?

I wounder if maybe the rear O2 and the front are the same and i could swap them hoping that the CAT has kept the rear one cleaner? Any ideas?

Good news though is i was driving it to the store a little bit ago and my quick tune is better then i thought it would be. at WOT it is 12.5 until about ~2500rpm then it drops to about ~11.5:1 and stays that way until i let off (have not taken it to redline yet). Timing also seems to be on fairly good, but need to check that on the OBD.

Ian Rogers

what do you fuel trims look like

Texas_Ace

Like numbers in boxes....lol



How do you explain it? it starts out with less fuel at 1psi and gets more fuel at higher psi and RPM's

Ian Rogers

you want to make the fuel trims add up to 0. And you want the fuel trims to be close to 0. So if SFT is 18 and LFT is -15 you would want to add fuel to get the trims closer to 0. The closer to 0 you are the more range the ecu has to make adjustments for whether and altitude. Why is you truck leaning out? MY 4-runner runs at 14.3-14.9 all the time until i go in to open loop. the 2 places i go into open loop are hard accelerations, and engine braking. I will define engine braking as any time i am off the gas over 1500 rpms, or if am on the brake over about 1000 rpms. I am a 5 speed so I might see more of this then you will. When you are not in the boost your should be running 14.5 ish if not you have a vacuum leak.

Texas_Ace

Well as i said the fuel trims are pretty much temporary right now until i figure out this lean out problem and get the AFR calabrator. But even with that being said the AFR's are almost exactly where they need to be under boost, just need to fine tune it.

If i was to remove fuel to get the trims closer to 0 then it would get leaner. So i don't know how i would do that? It really sounds like you are talking about the timing trims, those i know i want to add up to the 20 degrees the truck runs stock.

As for the lean out, i think i will make a video later today of the gages. Might help ya'll understand what is going on. I am starting to think it might be the O2 sensor, it is the OEM one with 125k on it. just might be the problem but i am not sure.

Going to see what the tempreture does today, if it warms up i have a few projects i need to do.

Speedy

I think you're confused. Fuel trims are shown in your OBDII tool, NOT in the R4 Software you use to map the truck. Two totally different things. Go back and look in the U-Tune AIC guide to understand the fuel trims.

As for leaning out....when you're on a steady throttle in closed loop it should be right around 14.7:1. If you let off the gas, it will go lean for a minute and bounce around as that's fuel cut mode. Look for 14.7:1 when maintaining a nice steady easy pressure on the gas cruising.

Ian Rogers

I am not talking about timing at all. where did you get 20* from? if you want to talk about timing lets do that but you problem is fuel right now.