skrassow

TA, no I have actually not used a relay before. To my understanding there are a few different types...Ill do some more reading on that. As for the guages, I actually have the TRD boost gauge along with the pod for it. I plan to mount the PLX in that pod and just not use the boost gauge. It wont be pretty, but when I get to it I will have a shop clean it up all purdy like. I only want the one guage, I like to keep it simple and clean looking, and I want to to keep my grab handle over there.

Speedy, I actually have your site up and have looked at it before. Ive been reading through gadgets site and the u-tune guide. Yours is next on my reading list

Speedy

Cool. I did the whole schmeal with pictures, and detailed instructions.

Mine's very up to date since I just did all this last year. I also did custom gauges over the stereo that look factory.

I've got some spare pieces that might help you out if you need such as the plastic and angle rings that I fabricated.

Texas_Ace

Check that site out for sure, i used that a LOT when doing mine. His truck is more or less what i want mine to be when it is done.

skrassow

Well we are going a slightly different route for sure. But as far as the powertrane, thats what Im after. As a whole this is more what Im after
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121406 If you guys havnt seen that build before you should look at it...its a sweet rig, and Wil is a great guy (he has helped me find a few things, as well as some advice). I dont know if it will every fully get to that stage, but I can dream anyway! Next on the list will be the rear bumper (kind workin on that now too) and a TruTrac or similar LSD(powertrax maybe).

So I just spent my saturday night reading speedy's website (well that and brushing up on my soldering skills...time for a new iron!). Great write up man! You guys amaze me with this stuff. Somehow between Speedy's page and Gadgets I seem to have missed the explanation of open and closed loop Ill have to go back and look at that one. but the numbers 14.7 and 11.8 keep bouncing around in my head!

Speedy

14.7 is what the computer will try to attain in closed loop (normal driving) and is fine. 11.8 is what you want under WOT and full boost for the best power.

skrassow

I was just rereading one of the guides from URD. If I am reading it right then the system will go into open loop at WOT or somewhere around there and attempt to introduce more fuel (11.8 vs 14.7) to compensate. In a manual transmission if you are in too high of a gear and mash the throttle you get the dreaded ping(knock)...the system is throwing in too much fuel even though the engine is not turning fast enough to burn it all. This is what we are trying to keep the computer from doing all the time by using the calibrator. So I can assume the stock computer is just not smart enough to keep up.

Let me know if my explanation is more or less correct(simplistic version). Ive turned plenty of wrenches but never really tuned a vehicle so Im learning here.

Texas_Ace

Sounds like you have it backwards to some degree.

14.7 is the best air to fuel ratio for the max power, and in normal driving this is what you want, it gives you the best MPG and is fine. When you start making more power though if you run that AFR you will get knock due to the gas igniting before the spark.

This is BAD and what really kills engines. Now if you were to use race gas that is more resistant to knock, you can run leaner and not have a problem (not that lean though).

So you have to add more fuel so that you don't knock. So you want the AFR's as close to 11.8 as you can when at WOT. This helps stop knock and thus not ruin your engine.

Leaner and you can knock, you are always better off a little too rich vs to lean. Now you can get too rich and cause knock but you have to be REAL rich for that. So when tuning alwasy error on the side of too rich.

skrassow

Ahh...that makes more sense. Actually makes a lot of sense coupled with a similar issue I have on my car.

On another note, my offer on the PLX stuff was accepted and should be here by next weekend If my dealership comes through with the check valve and tee fitting (and a tensioner pulley for the AC belt) Ill be in business.

Im gonna try again with this photo ( TA I dont know why it didnt show in the PM). Anyone know what this is? It was included with the supercharger kit I got. I looked around my truck thinking the guy took off something he wasnt supposed to, but I didnt see anything like it. I think he had it in a 4runner though.

Texas_Ace

Got me what that is, i don't reconize it.

skrassow

Ill just put it in the box with all the other leftover pieces!

Speedy

Close, but one correction.....14.7:1 makes the best EMISSIONS, not the best power. 13:1 is actually the best power on a NA engine.

Texas_Ace

Yes and no. True that in the real world 13:1 is the best NA power AFR, in a perfect world it would be 14.7:1. That makes the most heat and as everyone knows, more heat = more power if the engine can take it.

So yes in the real world 13:1 is the best.

skrassow

Well I just got off the phone with my local dealer AND TRD. Odly both say the other should have the information about the fittings and lines, and neither seem to know anything! So I bought a one way check valve, but it appears pretty small on one side so Im not sure it will work. And a pack of T fittings, although none of them are the size listed in the instruction manual...I couldnt find that size anywhere? The other issue is the hoses, It says 1/2" but thats pretty big line! Can you guys confirm that its 1/2" Inside diam? Also no one sells it in mm, so I need to figure out what size 3mm is. I didnt think it would be so difficult to come up with a few hoses and fittings for this!

Texas_Ace

Any check valve should work, i got mine from Toyota though, TRD said they could not sell it to me.

The tee fittings are also nothign special, just get some that fit.

As for the lines, i reused most of the lines on my truck as i had just replaced them not too long ago. Just buy some line that looks the same size as what you have. Once again nothing special.

skrassow

Ya know, I was looking at the manual again and it looks like the line is really just to replace what you already have? If thats the case, then yeah, all of mine are in good shape. Im sure the t fittings I have will work and the check valve. It just frustrates me to not be able to get the exact parts...Im a little OCD like that i guess.

Now back to trying to get the stock pulley off the S/C! I already broke two strap wrenches!

Texas_Ace

I know i tried everything and even though you are not suppsed to i had to use an impact gun. 1 hit and it was off.

Don't recomend it but if all else fails....

skrassow

Yeah I thought of that...no air at my place though I really should get a compressor! But my tool budget for the month is about out!

skrassow

I was able to get it off with a better strap wrench. I also had to use a ratchet strap to strap the SC to my workbench. I couldnt put any torque on it without it walking all over the place! Strapped it down and it popped off "fairly" easy. Now Im just waiting on all the parts to show up!

skrassow

Look what showed up today!

My "pre-install staging area" is starting to fill up!


Still waiting on the PLX stuff, but this should keep me busy until it gets here (yeah Im a bit slow)

Texas_Ace

Looking good, you need to start your own build up thread to log your progress.

Has that Supercharger been rebuilt? If not i would do that, i am going ot have to send mine in again because i cheaped out the first time around to have the roots replaced. Should have just coughed up the $$$ while they had it.