Texas_Ace

Thansk for the info, if i can get my money back on this one then i will be ordering one from them.

Now another question, after my battery died i decided to test the key-off power draw. So i disconnected the negitive battery cable and used the amp setting on the volt meter (only good to 10 amps, that is why i can't test the full power).

I got a reading of 0.24 amps. If i remember right that is right what it should be with the truck off right? or is that high?

coolboatguy

so that vibration at idle problem you got....can you hear it inside the cab? and does it go away or lessen when you take it out of gear? i have the same problem and have no clue what it is. i just know it goes away (mostly) when not in gear. aka N or P

Texas_Ace

Hmmm, don't really remember any vibrations, i had some when i first got it together but after getting everything buttoned up i don't remember any since then.

Mind reminding me?

coolboatguy

I also noticed that the dynamic tenisner "viberates" when at idle? If i rev it a little it smooths out. no idea on that one, i just know it didn't do it with the old pulley.

coolboatguy

k i clicked the quote icon but it didnt put a box around the quote. my last post was supposed to be a quote of you.

Texas_Ace

Oh, THAT viberation, yeah i still have that. No idea what that is about and it still does it.

Texas_Ace

Ok, so as some of you know i am going to take my truck to get it Dynoed tomorrow when i pick up my MR2 engine.

So today when i went to the store i decided to make sure it was running in tip top shape.

Filled up the tank with Shell preiuim 93oct.

All felt nice, power seemed normal (thoguh i didn't REALLY get on it yet).

So then i was on an acsess road and decided to go WOT. Well at first it seemed ok but going into second the power seemed to drop WAY off on the low end.

I tried it a few more times and there is power loss for sure. My butt dyno says so but also, it used to be that i could just chirp the tires in 4wd from a stop, anytime everytime.

Well i could not get anything no matter how hard i tried today.

So i took it home and hooked up the OBD and tuning software. everything LOOKS fine except for the timing. I noticed that it is showing about 15* of advance at WOT, factor in the 3- 4 degrees retard that the URD computer is also taking out and i am at about 10 degrees. That is only about 4 - 5 degrees from what Gadget said it should be at but still could that make this differnce?

Otherwise, fuel trims are not bad, within 10 either way in the short term, the long term is a little more at somes place though.

Boost is still about 6psi.

Speaking of boost, i found that the supercharger belt is slipping, or soemthing ain't right. I looked under the hood to find a lot of rubber dust over a lot of the parts. Near as i can tell it is from the belt, which would make sense, i had a squeaky belt a little while back and i had woundered if this belt was slipping. But why is it slipping?

Right now i am resetting the ECU, will try it again after that and see what it does.

Any help would be great, if i can't get this running right then i don't think i am going to waste my $$$ on the dyno tomorrow, i know that the power is low, i don't need a dyno to tell me that.

I am stumed though, it has been running perfect up till now.

mt_goat

My first belt with the URD supergrip pulley only lasted about 3000 miles, after it broke I noticed the grooves in the belt went all the way down to the reinforcement fibers in places. I also had a lot of rubber dust in the engine bay. I think the gripper grooves cut into the pulley had too many burrs on them, but the good news is the burrs appear to be worn off now and the 2nd belt is doing fine so far.

Texas_Ace

That makes sense, I know that seeing all that rubber dust scared me. I have the odl belt in the truck just in case, i might upgrade that to a NEW belt in the near future.

Ok, the good news is that after resetting the ECU i took it for a drive and all the power seems to be back if not more.

The strange part is that looking at the logs from after, they look almost the exact same as before. The timing might be an extra degree or 2 advanced but i find it hard to belive that was the differnce in power that i felt.

Well i do plan to do the dyno tomorrow. I also plan to test the old ebay intake i have vs the stock intake without elbow on the dyno. I also might put the stock pulley back on and then get a dyno with that for comparison.

I do know i will need to do some tuning for max power though. I have it tuned right now for max power in first gear (95% of my WOT driving is through first gear then letting off just before it goes into second at around 30 - 40mph and i would rather it run rich the rest of the time anyways), in first gear it sits right at 11.8 but as the gears go higher the AFR's get richer. By the time i am in 3rd gear i am running low 10's AFR's. So i will need to lean that out some.

Texas_Ace

Ok, so I got a chance to hit the dyno today while I was picking up an engine for my MR2.

Found out a lot of interesting things while I was there. Some good and some bad.

Lets start out with the first run (turned out to be the second best due to heat soak). Out of the gate I put down 223hp on a tune that was running pretty rich. AFR’s were in the 10’s. I removed some fuel and ran it again, got almost the exact same number.

Tuned it a touch more for the 3rd pull and got the same number again (it was getting heat soaked quick, I think the heat was making up for the improvements in the tune). I used this tune from there on out, started a tad lean at 12:1 and got a tad rich at 11.5:1 around 4000 – redline. Overall the tune was close enough and I only had an hour so I just used it. Did 3 more pulls like this getting slightly lower numbers each time. By the time we stopped for a second, we were down to about 210hp.

So we stopped due to the heat shield on the firewall smoking from the header heat (smoke coming from the engine bay is not good usually). Turns out the heat shield was glowing. So while we let it cool off I decided to swap the pulley back to the stock pulley to see how much power I lost.

So swapped it out fired it back up. We then made another pull and put down 224hp! That’s right, we made slightly MORE power on the stock pulley then the 2.2?!??! Needless to say I was wondering what was wrong. So I checked the logs and noticed that the boost is virtually the exact same for both pulleys, right at 6 – 6.5psi. only gained about .5psi with the 2.2 pulley tops. So my theory that my belt is slipping seems to be quite true, I know that the rubber on the bottom of my hood also supports that. More on this later

Over the next few pulls power dropped off just like before due to heat soak, tune was still right on. I think that I made the same/more power with the stock pulley even though I lost about .5 due to the tune being better then the first pulls with the 2.2. It was still heat soaked for these runs as well.

So I now decided to test the ebay short ram intake I had vs the stock intake I had been using without the elbow (still has the ISR BTW).

So I started swapping that out, during this time the guy running the dyno reset it and he had to do all the start up process all over again, the other guys in the shop found it quite funny.

So swapped out the intake, we all figure an extra 5 – 10hp with it. Get in the truck and start the pull. After it is over, we are all shocked to see a lot of about 5 -10 hp over the next few pulls. We look at it and can’t figure out why but sure enough I LOST power with the short ram intake. This is also a good time to note that the air filter that I was using in the stock airbox is old as the hills, I just put the stock intake back on a few weeks ago and never got another filter, so I am sure that would free up a few more HP getting a new filter.

So by this time we have got a regular routine going, about 220hp at the wheels and drops off after each pull due to heat soak. As we went along though power dropped off even more due to heat soaking it real good. That SC was HOT.

So I put the stock intake back on in disbelief that it made more power, made another run and sure enough gained 5 – 10hp over the next 3 pulls over the pulls just a few minutes before. So strange as it may sound the stock airbox IS better then those short-ram/Cold-air intakes! Surprising to me. With the ISR removed and a new air filter I bet I could have made even more with the stock box.

So final results, the actual dyno sheets I will get posted as soon as they e-mail them to me.

About 225hp with a heat soaked engine, stock pulley, ok tune, clogged air filter, ISR still in place, with an auto (add in some extra drive train loss there) and not going all the way to redline (it was still making power at the fuel cut of 5100rpm). What really surprised me was the torque curve, or should I say line. The torque curve was FLAT, I mean it started and just kept going. You could almost put a ruler on it, all the way to fuel cut.

Something is wrong with the belt/pulley/tensioner causing it to not make anymore boost with the 2.2 over the stock pulley. I decided to leave the stock pulley on the SC since it made the same or more power then the 2.2. No reason to use the 2.2 if I am not going to gain anything.

Stock intake with the elbow removed and the ISR still intact and a clogged air filter is better than a short ram/cold air intake (didn’t see that one coming).

Good news is that my wideband is right on, it matched the dyno wideband exactly except at idle where the leak i am sure is what caused the problem, ALLL that work and "problems" all come down to an exahust leak!

So in the end I think that without the heat soak, a little better tune, new air filter and removing the ISR I could hit 230 – 240hp at the wheels pretty easy.

Then if I can get the pulley/boost issue figured out and get that other 3lb of boost I am POSITIVE that I will be well over 250 when all is said and done. Most likely closer to 275 (each lb of boost is about 8hp – 10hp at the wheels, so 3 x 10 = ~30hp).


Click the video and then select "watch in high quality" link under the video for better quality.

[YOUTUBE]SKQ7mjjeoCg[/YOUTUBE]

Dyno charts coming as soon as they e-mail them to me.

okie81

That's interesting about the pulley. You would think that if the belt was slipping considerably, the boost would be disproportionate to RPM as you climbed into the powerband. I'm looking forward to seeing the spec's!

mt_goat

Very interesting.

Texas_Ace

Interesting indeed. Another posibilty for getting a max of 6.5psi no matter what pulley i use could also be due to the roots int he SC having upwards of 75k miles on them. Then they were rebuilding it they said that they were old and would not give full boost but that i could get them changed out later.

So i can always take the SC off and have those replaced. But it seems like i would get some more boost of SOME kind with the 2.2.

Overall i am fairly happy with the results. Seeing as i am running the stock pulley plus the few other little things and then getting rid of the heat soak, putting down 230hp - 240hp on the stock pulley is not bad at all.

Plus my goals of over 250hp at the wheels are WELL within my reach once i figure out the boost problem.

So overall i am happy with the results.

mt_goat

And the smaller pulley spinning it faster creates more drag and heat but not more boost, therefore less HP.

Texas_Ace

Something like that.

I went to return the trailer i was towing today and on the way back decided to see if i could feel any differnce.

And it actually feels like it has more power with the stock pulley. I was also getting MORE boost this morning then i have ever got with the 2.2. Upwards of 7.5psi but it si also 30 degrees outside which i am sure has somthing to do with that.

But this does confirm that i have a fair amount of power left to get from this setup.

skrassow

I want to bump this thread back up. There is a ton of good info in here, too much to get lost in the archives. As I go through my install Ill post any questions in here.

TA, I noticed you fuse block setup and I am planning a simliar setup. Actually I have the same blocks, but they are six bank versions. How did you wire the one for switched hot?

I have decided to go with the wideband (PLX) and want to confirm that this threads into the stock location in the exhaust? Im sure it will be more clear when I get everything and see the instructions/connections, but for now I am trying to figure out how everything will work together. (URD 7th, URD o2calibrator, PLX AFR, PLX DM100 OBD). That should get me everything I need to tune it properly, along with a built in OBD reader.

Man I dont even want to think about my total "investment" so far!

Texas_Ace

Fuse block is not hard, just time consuming. For the switched block i used a relay, just wired the relay to a switched 12+ and then the other side tot he block. Good to 30 amps of draw which is way more then it will need.

the wideband will work fine but you will have to get a shop to weld in a bung for it. I don't know of any widebands that use the stock O2 sensors, narrow bands do but not widebands. Plus you need both of your O2 sensors anyways.

Just have a shop weld in the bung a few inches down from where the "sides" of the exhust come together. Easy and cheap.

That list looks good, You might want a boost gauge but it is not a much as the URD will show you the boost when you have a laptop in there with you.

skrassow

Yeah, the boost module is on the list for the next round...my wallet can only take so much at a time! I figured the AFR should be the top of the list. When I recover from that Ill get the boost, maybe the EGT, fluid temp, oil pressure. I think it should be able to get the oil temp from the OBD. Ill see what all it is able to display from that and then add others as money allows! This is the only vehicle I have that doesnt have the ability to read and clear its own codes...so this is a pretty cool gauge. Cheaper than getting an OBD code reader and an afr gauge seperate!

What relay did you use? I can find a switched source, but most of those wires are pretty thin and I didnt think they would supply that much amperage. The blocks have 6ga leads on them. Time to go do some reading over at the 12volt i guess.

Texas_Ace

Have you ever used a relay before? If not doa google search for them, it will show how to use them. Basically they allow you to use virtually no power to switch a bigger swtich that can supply a lot of power. I picked up the realys from pepboys for $5 each and they are 30amp relays.

Where are you going to mount your gauges? If you are getting a piller pod (best option IMO) then you will have 2 open slots. you will either need to pick 2 gauges or spend big bucks and get some combo gauges.

Personally i use the AFR, Oil Temp gauges the most, all the others are only needed once in a blue moon, or the boost gauge which is just there for fun (BTW, a boost gauge is only about $30)

Speedy

Check my site out. I think you'll find a lot of information there that will help you.

www.speedysgarage.net