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A small project.
My stick shifter was bent to clear the variety of other shifters, bringing it a little more forward and towards driver. That puts my knuckle very close and occasionally brushing the cb mic connector, the collar of which being a little scratchy.
I have an 'L' connector for the antenna cable for clearance back there, why not the same up front?
new vs old
take old apart
Wiring that needs to move over in this order (several landmarks on the connector to get them in the right places)
New connector
Goes on like so. Cut back the cover, strip wires, solder to new connector (old one in pic)
Like so
With my stick in 1st. It's only a little extra clearance, but beings I was only occasionally tagging it, it's enough. On the off chance I do hit it, a smoother contact spot.
And a small project I've been meaning to get around to is (hopefully) happening today. Waiting on one more part...
There's a tiny second project in the picture too...
Pulled the lighter socket out, rotated it until it pushed out forward, then was able to remove the white surround.
You can see what I did to make the lighter surround red- fingernail polish!
Once you push in the two tabs that hold in the socket...surround?...sleeve?...containment?
the metal plate can be easily removed. I enlarged the hole until it was big enough for the new usb charger, leaving the top alone and working sideways and downward. The lip on the charger is going to make for a tight fit at the top.
Next the dremel went to work on the plastic of the bezel, using the metal plate as a template for making my hole the correct size. If it's too big the retaining ring on the back won't hold the whole mess together.
On the charger red is positive and black is negative. On my 4Runner blue/pink is positive and white/black is ground. After testing to make sure that was correct I removed the lighter plug and added spade connectors, male for pos and female for ground, then trimmed and did the opposite for the charger spade connectors.
I trimmed the retainers for the usb cover, the fit at the top is too tight. I left the remaining ring as a gasket and tossed the cover in the center console- there's always at least usb plugged in.
Then I put it all together.
And used the charger's retaining ring to hold it all together.
I plugged the appropriate spade connectors together, buttoned it up, and it's doing its thing.
and my start battery is ailing and doesn't like the cold. It would need a little help from the house battery to start in this weather.
This is as the lighter socket was, powered only when the key is on acc or on.
Really lookin' forward to that alternator upgrade! (j/k)
Step 1: 4Runner alternator fail...
It's probably a good idea.
Reeling a little from Dropzone dropping the 4Runner. I was sad when he sold the Trekker too, looking forward to his next project.
Worked on getting the left cargo panel done. All was going swimmingly until I had an argument with the rear positive busbar. It was taking too long to sort out, it's a nice day, I'm gonna go play.
I have to finish wiring up the usb charger and put the nuts on the fan panel bolts (had to find washers so it wouldn't be tightening nuts onto plastic). After that the cargo panel gets popped into place.
Hey Hab- I am bummed too!
anyway seeing your post I have a 120amp alternator I bought back at the end of 2015 for the 4Runner.
I just took it out of the box when I saw your post, if it it something you can use feel free to make me an offer, I’ll include free shipping
invoice says for 92-95 4Runners.
Hey Hab- I am bummed too!
anyway seeing your post I have a 120amp alternator I bought back at the end of 2015 for the 4Runner.
I just took it out of the box when I saw your post, if it it something you can use feel free to make me an offer, I’ll include free shipping
invoice says for 92-95 4Runners.
I felt like you were getting somewhere with that trans issue, but can see how absolutely frustrating it would be to have to tear into that over and over with no answer. I guess it didn't have anything to do with either transfer case either?
Well, either way someone is going to get a heck of a deal, you've got so many good things into it. It's really really good I'm not closer to you...
That's generous of you, for the alternator. It looks like Elvota was able to throw one on a 3.4, I'll have to look into how much room is around it (dual battery box). Prolly it would fit better than a GM alt. Mine is 70amp, poor thing. I'll do some thinking and, if you haven't found a home for it in the meantime, let you know. The shipping might be too much to be worth it for you? And Thanks!
Love the L on the CB cable, I've got a little something something going on my second DIN that will push my COMs (GMRS) to the ashtray location - saves me a bulb and who even smokes/uses an ashtray anymore? (Not Me)
I'm still toying with where my ARB compressor should go, I'm leaning towards under the hood as I might need that rear driver quarter panel for dual fill inlet junk - a second tank and eimkeith crossmember is on the agenda.
FWIW, I use the lighter socket for my Nebo rechargeable flashlight. It's the best thing I ever found - I have one in every car. I'm thinking about replacing the rear ashtray with a USB charging panel.
I didn't do much this weekend, but I did grind on a grill for a semi,-satoshi sleeper mod. Updates pending in my thread over there... too lazy right now tho.
Loving your updates, Habs and Jomoka
Last edited by octanejunkie; 03-13-2022 at 08:14 PM.
Love the L on the CB cable, I've got a little something something going on my second DIN that will push my COMs (GMRS) to the ashtray location - saves me a bulb and who even smokes/uses an ashtray anymore? (Not Me)
I'm still toying with where my ARB compressor should go, I'm leaning towards under the hood as I might need that rear driver quarter panel for dual fill inlet junk - a second tank and eimkeith crossmember is on the agenda.
FWIW, I use the lighter socket for my Nebo rechargeable flashlight. It's the best thing I ever found - I have one in every car. I'm thinking about replacing the rear ashtray with a USB charging panel.
I didn't do much this weekend, but I did grind on a grill for a semi,-satoshi sleeper mod. Updates pending in my thread over there... too lazy right now tho.
Loving your updates, Habs and Jomoka
I really liked eimkeith's set-up, but it won't work with our 4xInnovations rear bumper. My husband sorted it out very well anyway.
Second din fiddling? Will be watching! I've got an 'L' in both front and back now, for clearance. Smoking is for NOT ME too.
I'm still thinking on GMRS vs Ham. Most time GMRS would do the trick. What's your thoughts?
Engine bay oba...under the battery tray somewhere one the inner fender or around the fan shroud? In front of the air box? Inside one of the fenders? Will be watching for your solution on that too.
Installed the left cargo panel, muffin fans on when the winch/anderson/oba solenoid is on. Oba doesn't have to be on for the fans to work.
2 AC Infinity 120mm usb fans
FXC QC 3.0 dual usb car charger w/voltmeter, NO on/off button
AC Infinity ventilation grille 12.6 x 6.4" (doesn't quite cover the vents that were in the panel, but darned close)
Recoil BBPG4 power and ground busbar (ran out of room plus a failed post on the Blue Sea bus bar that was originally back there)
The grille looks crooked because of the panel and the camera, it's not. I used the original vent to line it up straight.
Yesterday I drained the transmission and taco box, replaced the initial cheapo 75w90 with Redline MT90 for the trans and Redline 75w90 for the taco. The rear transfer case still has 75w90.
Ready to put the skids back on, but gonna rain all day = wet driveway...maybe tomorrow.
Still got to figure out the arb solenoid and DRILL a hole in the truck's body for project heaty rear.
Rainy day, made use of the awning coupled with the tailgate to stay dry. My resealed tailgate window kept the water out while it was open, happy (dry) me.
It used to leak at the top as water pooled when the tailgate was open.
Got the arb solenoid figured out and the right side cargo panel in, then the upper light panel and the tailgate sill cover thingy.
Pulled the center console. The 'new' one needs a serious cleaning and then even more cleaning. It's blue-grey like the rest of the truck vs the grey I had in there.
Cleaned the 'new' center console and moved my switch plate over.
Starting with the rear cup holder. Two screws and up and forward out of the keeper tabs.
Next comes the cup holders/brake lever housing.
There are 6 catches that hold it in place. I found once I did the 4 lower ones the other two popped out. I was able to access the catches from the underside and used a pair of pliers to squeeze the keepers in and pop them through the holes.
You can see on the center console where the 4 tabs/holes are, the other 2 are at the top by where the latch catches.
Glove storage area is next. The bottom can be pulled off the posts and the top has keys that slide off once the bottom's popped loose.
Bottom:
and side view that shows the keyed area...The front is facing towards the left
I pulled the lid and swapped the tops because the new one was missing the spring on the latch. 2 screws, the arms pull up and maneuver the hooks out.
Now we're ready for the main storage compartment
a screw on either side of the center console, at the bottom and about mid-point
and 4 screws holding the box in, 2 in the front and 2 in the back (yellow marks)
I cleaned it all up pretty well and put it all back together using parts from both consoles. Reverse order.
The little cupholder cushion got cleaned up and put back in place too
Can you see where I made a hole in the bottom of the glove storage area and ran my wires through?
I made this switch plate of a bit of plastic and reinforced the switch holder area with metal slots behind the plastic. So basically it's just some random junk I had laying around and the switches that were in the 96's old style center console.
Before I can install it in the truck I've got some holes to make.
Yesterday the cost of a license for GMRS finally went down to $35, so I went ahead and got that. Good for 10 years and all the family members.
I'm still trying to decide if I want to go with gmrs mobile or ham. The main purpose is for simplex truck-to-truck. Canyons, mountains, deserts, trees, around bends...all the sorts of places we need to communicate. Usually we're fairly close, but not always.
As best I understand things both have better sound quality than cb, and ham seems to have both better quality mobile radios and better range.
I don't mind learning stuff (ham test).
Any thoughts? Radio recommendations?
I've got my ears on...
Yesterday the cost of a license for GMRS finally went down to $35, so I went ahead and got that. Good for 10 years and all the family members.
I'm still trying to decide if I want to go with gmrs mobile or ham. The main purpose is for simplex truck-to-truck. Canyons, mountains, deserts, trees, around bends...all the sorts of places we need to communicate. Usually we're fairly close, but not always.
As best I understand things both have better sound quality than cb, and ham seems to have both better quality mobile radios and better range.
I don't mind learning stuff (ham test).
Any thoughts? Radio recommendations?
I've got my ears on...
I got mine, yesterday, too. The approval of my application was in my inbox this morning.
The two big decisions on a radio is mobile (handheld) or fixed (in dash) and programmable or not. Most hammers, GMRSers and SAT phones lend themselves well to handheld. Baofeng being one of the more popular, cheaper brands that makes radios across the spectrum that are ubiquitous.
Focusing on GMRS, to get the kind of distances advertised, you'll probably want to relay off towers, for truck to truck within visual range that function won't matter. I have read several conflicting posts by folks on various corners of the internet about brand limitations (Midland can only talk to Midland) and most are incorrect. However, if you choose a fixed, pre-programmed radio you will be more limited in what you can do (capability) with a radio. That being said, if you get a HAM, and learn to program it ahead of time (for the area you are going and towers that will be available) you can monitor ALL frequencies and legally only broadcast on the ones you are licensed for. In the event of a dire emergency, I'll take the fine and broadcast on whatever if it gets the help needed. The HAM license requires an actual test vs just an application and fee.
The choice of radio is pretty personal and subjective. There are cheap chinese radios, and there are re-brands of cheap chinese radios selling for 3-5x. There are of course mid-range and high-end in both handheld and fixed mount. The best thing (and what I will do first) is buy a $30 GMRS handheld and try it on the trails with other wheelers - most of my local crowd seem to have gone GMRS, CB is literally dead.
Midland, Radioddity, Rugged Radios, and several others have cheap to middle-of-the-road offerings and are the brands I have looked at primarily. Ultimately, I will go for a fixed mount with dedicated antenna, etc, but until I learn the ropes I'd rather not buy 3x (something I'm apt to do) and the handheld can become a hiking or camping in-the-tent coms vs the fixed mount in the truck.
I got mine, yesterday, too. The approval of my application was in my inbox this morning.
The two big decisions on a radio is mobile (handheld) or fixed (in dash) and programmable or not. Most hammers, GMRSers and SAT phones lend themselves well to handheld. Baofeng being one of the more popular, cheaper brands that makes radios across the spectrum that are ubiquitous.
Focusing on GMRS, to get the kind of distances advertised, you'll probably want to relay off towers, for truck to truck within visual range that function won't matter. I have read several conflicting posts by folks on various corners of the internet about brand limitations (Midland can only talk to Midland) and most are incorrect. However, if you choose a fixed, pre-programmed radio you will be more limited in what you can do (capability) with a radio. That being said, if you get a HAM, and learn to program it ahead of time (for the area you are going and towers that will be available) you can monitor ALL frequencies and legally only broadcast on the ones you are licensed for. In the event of a dire emergency, I'll take the fine and broadcast on whatever if it gets the help needed. The HAM license requires an actual test vs just an application and fee.
The choice of radio is pretty personal and subjective. There are cheap chinese radios, and there are re-brands of cheap chinese radios selling for 3-5x. There are of course mid-range and high-end in both handheld and fixed mount. The best thing (and what I will do first) is buy a $30 GMRS handheld and try it on the trails with other wheelers - most of my local crowd seem to have gone GMRS, CB is literally dead.
Midland, Radioddity, Rugged Radios, and several others have cheap to middle-of-the-road offerings and are the brands I have looked at primarily. Ultimately, I will go for a fixed mount with dedicated antenna, etc, but until I learn the ropes I'd rather not buy 3x (something I'm apt to do) and the handheld can become a hiking or camping in-the-tent coms vs the fixed mount in the truck.
Congrats on taking the GMRS license dive!
Thanks, you too, and thanks for the reply! Good to have some stuff to mull over.
Looking at mobile, we already have a couple of pairs of older handhelds. They're more clear than the cb, but limited in distance and SO annoying to keep track of. I attach mine to the seatbelt close to my ear because it's hard to hear it, but it always runs off on crazy front seat and floorboard escapades. The small antenna and wattage probably makes for much of its limitations, I've read that the trucks act a bit like a Faraday cage for the handhelds. Being older they also eat batteries as they are not usb rechargeable. We will still use them for the sort of thing you're thinking, and maybe for spotting too.
Ham has better repeater coverage now, but gmrs repeater population is growing. Agree, bacon-saving would be worth the fine. I can find japanese-made ham, but not gmrs. Gonna skip the baofeng, too many people complain about sound quality and longevity.
I'm looking at wouxun, icom, yaesu. I tend to overthink....and sometimes not think at all!
I'll chime in too. I only have experience with the ham handheld variety. I have a couple of cheap baofeng, which I think are rated at 8 or 10 watts. The difference between those in CB's is very well defined. I found the cheap antennas that came with the units where the biggest limitation. I bought some 15 or $20 replacement longer antennas that helped immensely. I also got a magnet mount antenna for the roof of the 4Runner that really upgraded the range and clarity. All of the radios I have seen, have a plug for a headphone / microphone combo, which made it much easier to use while wheeling. For me the biggest factor on switching to ham, was that everyone I was willing with used ham radios. If they're using a different technology, it's hard to talk to them. Good luck with whatever you choose, and I'm excited to see your thoughts on the matter.
03-12-2022 | 05:24 AM
Thanks, you too, and thanks for the reply! Good to have some stuff to mull over.
