habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread
05-09-2021, 08:04 AM
#4161
i always knew adding junk to it would make it harder on components but now you have me thinking of going on a truck diet too. All of my ideas seem to add a lot of weight..urrrrr
05-09-2021, 08:37 AM
#4162
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
pretty sure you are correct, especially when i get that 40 pound hunk of Budbuilt skid mounted, probably had anothe 10-15 because I am pretty sure it will need a small crossmember towards the front of it.
i always knew adding junk to it would make it harder on components but now you have me thinking of going on a truck diet too. All of my ideas seem to add a lot of weight..urrrrr
i always knew adding junk to it would make it harder on components but now you have me thinking of going on a truck diet too. All of my ideas seem to add a lot of weight..urrrrr
I'm looking at that possibility too, maybe something like a regular crossmember or
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/t-case-crossmember/ ?
05-10-2021, 05:29 PM
#4163
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 316,xxx miles
@250gottiline
Finally getting around to the non-working Tacoma VSS- vehicle speed sender- that I added to the transfer case when my front abs was disabled since the 4Runner relies on all 4 abs senders for the speedo.
Anywho, it was a bit more accurate so I wanted it back. I'd had to lengthen my wires when I added the Tacobox and the speedo didn't work any more when I got the truck rolling again.
The sender was working prior to tacobox deal so I assumed it was likely still good. I tested for and had continuity for the wiring and ground so off to the interwebs to research, see if anyone else had figured stuff out. That's where I came across a post where the guy said he'd figured out that if the wiring had too much resistance the sender wouldn't work.
Alright, testing. Still had continuity, ohms were 1.8, 1.7, 1.0 (ground). I replaced the wiring with new 16 gauge so that there was nothing spliced together except at the brown connector on the instrument cluster (grey/blue pin 2 and black/yellow pin 7) and at the pigtail at the sender.
Testing at .8 ohms now, test drove it and, it works! I can't find the post, will stick it here if I do.
No pics, I did exactly what I did last time I wired it up, Starting post 1935 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...1/index97.html if anybody wants to see it.
@250gottiline
Finally getting around to the non-working Tacoma VSS- vehicle speed sender- that I added to the transfer case when my front abs was disabled since the 4Runner relies on all 4 abs senders for the speedo.
Anywho, it was a bit more accurate so I wanted it back. I'd had to lengthen my wires when I added the Tacobox and the speedo didn't work any more when I got the truck rolling again.
The sender was working prior to tacobox deal so I assumed it was likely still good. I tested for and had continuity for the wiring and ground so off to the interwebs to research, see if anyone else had figured stuff out. That's where I came across a post where the guy said he'd figured out that if the wiring had too much resistance the sender wouldn't work.
Alright, testing. Still had continuity, ohms were 1.8, 1.7, 1.0 (ground). I replaced the wiring with new 16 gauge so that there was nothing spliced together except at the brown connector on the instrument cluster (grey/blue pin 2 and black/yellow pin 7) and at the pigtail at the sender.
Testing at .8 ohms now, test drove it and, it works! I can't find the post, will stick it here if I do.
No pics, I did exactly what I did last time I wired it up, Starting post 1935 https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...1/index97.html if anybody wants to see it.
05-10-2021, 05:47 PM
#4164
Same, but I can't think of any things I'd want to ditch.
I'm looking at that possibility too, maybe something like a regular crossmember or
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/t-case-crossmember/ ?
I'm looking at that possibility too, maybe something like a regular crossmember or
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/t-case-crossmember/ ?
But funny you mention the FROR crossmember, i asked the shop doing the work if that was an option- at the time FROR's site said it was out and no idea when it would be in stock again so Budbuilt was contacted to do the custom crossmember. and of course a month later FROR was stocking them again. but it think the budbuilt will be better in the long run
05-10-2021, 06:12 PM
#4165
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
i think mine would be fairly simple, just a some angle welded to the frame and some box tubing going from frame to frame to support the front of the skid.
But funny you mention the FROR crossmember, i asked the shop doing the work if that was an option- at the time FROR's site said it was out and no idea when it would be in stock again so Budbuilt was contacted to do the custom crossmember. and of course a month later FROR was stocking them again. but it think the budbuilt will be better in the long run
But funny you mention the FROR crossmember, i asked the shop doing the work if that was an option- at the time FROR's site said it was out and no idea when it would be in stock again so Budbuilt was contacted to do the custom crossmember. and of course a month later FROR was stocking them again. but it think the budbuilt will be better in the long run
05-22-2021, 07:19 PM
#4166
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 316,541 miles
I happened to notice my reverse lights weren't working. Fuse was good, the aux lights work when switched on.
Checked the backup switch. It's on the right side (passenger) of the transmission.
The plastic plug was broken nearly off. Alright, bad back-up switch. Toyota 84210-52050 for those who would like to know.
It wasn't terribly old, I know I replaced it a 10/2016 with a Toyota part, so I figured I broke it when I was installing the transmission.
No worries. I looked at a Toyota Parts site for one, then looked at what else it came on. A LOT of different vehicles.
JUNKYARD RUN!!
Cars and Coffee at Worldwide Technology Raceway in Illinois first. Spent a few hours looking at cool cars and people disinterestedly glancing at my 4Runner (as usual) and doing double takes at the hubby's LS swapped turbo 93 Volvo 240.
Afterwards we went to the junkyard nearby and pulled a backup switch and corresponding pigtail out of an 02 Tundra. Perfect match.
Got home and pulled the old switch. That's when I noticed the old switch was toaster-fried, the plug was melted-fused to the pigtail. Turns out the switch was not quite disengaging, the spring was sticking so that it wasn't releasing all the way. It seemed to be working, I guess it was getting some sort of power, but not enough to activate the lights? Just enough dysfunction to fry the switch. I did notice but couldn't find a plasticky burning smell after driving, moved the transfer case wiring further away from the cat in case that was it. Apparently That. Was not it.
And that was that.
These aren't meant to be taken apart...
That's a bunch of crispy-brittle stuff.
Even before I pulled it apart I could see that it wasn't entirely disengaging/ de-energizing. There was about a quarter inch of loose play when the spring tension was released, which means it was not quite off.
I happened to notice my reverse lights weren't working. Fuse was good, the aux lights work when switched on.
Checked the backup switch. It's on the right side (passenger) of the transmission.
The plastic plug was broken nearly off. Alright, bad back-up switch. Toyota 84210-52050 for those who would like to know.
It wasn't terribly old, I know I replaced it a 10/2016 with a Toyota part, so I figured I broke it when I was installing the transmission.
No worries. I looked at a Toyota Parts site for one, then looked at what else it came on. A LOT of different vehicles.
JUNKYARD RUN!!
Cars and Coffee at Worldwide Technology Raceway in Illinois first. Spent a few hours looking at cool cars and people disinterestedly glancing at my 4Runner (as usual) and doing double takes at the hubby's LS swapped turbo 93 Volvo 240.
Afterwards we went to the junkyard nearby and pulled a backup switch and corresponding pigtail out of an 02 Tundra. Perfect match.
Got home and pulled the old switch. That's when I noticed the old switch was toaster-fried, the plug was melted-fused to the pigtail. Turns out the switch was not quite disengaging, the spring was sticking so that it wasn't releasing all the way. It seemed to be working, I guess it was getting some sort of power, but not enough to activate the lights? Just enough dysfunction to fry the switch. I did notice but couldn't find a plasticky burning smell after driving, moved the transfer case wiring further away from the cat in case that was it. Apparently That. Was not it.
And that was that.
These aren't meant to be taken apart...
That's a bunch of crispy-brittle stuff.
Even before I pulled it apart I could see that it wasn't entirely disengaging/ de-energizing. There was about a quarter inch of loose play when the spring tension was released, which means it was not quite off.
Last edited by habanero; 05-23-2021 at 06:21 PM.
05-23-2021, 03:23 PM
#4167
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 316,541 miles
One of the auxiliary light pods stopped working a little bit ago. It wasn't that old so I contacted the company and they sent me a new one to replace it.
Got it today, put it on. Everything is back in working order again.
One of the auxiliary light pods stopped working a little bit ago. It wasn't that old so I contacted the company and they sent me a new one to replace it.
Got it today, put it on. Everything is back in working order again.
05-25-2021, 02:53 PM
#4169
96 4Runner 316,541 miles
I happened to notice my reverse lights weren't working. Fuse was good, the aux lights work when switched on.
Checked the backup switch. It's on the right side (passenger) of the transmission.
The plastic plug was broken nearly off. Alright, bad back-up switch. Toyota 84210-52050 for those who would like to know.
It wasn't terribly old, I know I replaced it a 10/2016 with a Toyota part, so I figured I broke it when I was installing the transmission.
No worries. I looked at a Toyota Parts site for one, then looked at what else it came on. A LOT of different vehicles.
JUNKYARD RUN!!
Cars and Coffee at Worldwide Technology Raceway in Illinois first. Spent a few hours looking at cool cars and people disinterestedly glancing at my 4Runner (as usual) and doing double takes at the hubby's LS swapped turbo 93 Volvo 240.
Afterwards we went to the junkyard nearby and pulled a backup switch and corresponding pigtail out of an 02 Tundra. Perfect match.
Got home and pulled the old switch. That's when I noticed the old switch was toaster-fried, the plug was melted-fused to the pigtail. Turns out the switch was not quite disengaging, the spring was sticking so that it wasn't releasing all the way. It seemed to be working, I guess it was getting some sort of power, but not enough to activate the lights? Just enough dysfunction to fry the switch. I did notice but couldn't find a plasticky burning smell after driving, moved the transfer case wiring further away from the cat in case that was it. Apparently That. Was not it.
And that was that.
These aren't meant to be taken apart...
That's a bunch of crispy-brittle stuff.
Even before I pulled it apart I could see that it wasn't entirely disengaging/ de-energizing. There was about a quarter inch of loose play when the spring tension was released, which means it was not quite off.
I happened to notice my reverse lights weren't working. Fuse was good, the aux lights work when switched on.
Checked the backup switch. It's on the right side (passenger) of the transmission.
The plastic plug was broken nearly off. Alright, bad back-up switch. Toyota 84210-52050 for those who would like to know.
It wasn't terribly old, I know I replaced it a 10/2016 with a Toyota part, so I figured I broke it when I was installing the transmission.
No worries. I looked at a Toyota Parts site for one, then looked at what else it came on. A LOT of different vehicles.
JUNKYARD RUN!!
Cars and Coffee at Worldwide Technology Raceway in Illinois first. Spent a few hours looking at cool cars and people disinterestedly glancing at my 4Runner (as usual) and doing double takes at the hubby's LS swapped turbo 93 Volvo 240.
Afterwards we went to the junkyard nearby and pulled a backup switch and corresponding pigtail out of an 02 Tundra. Perfect match.
Got home and pulled the old switch. That's when I noticed the old switch was toaster-fried, the plug was melted-fused to the pigtail. Turns out the switch was not quite disengaging, the spring was sticking so that it wasn't releasing all the way. It seemed to be working, I guess it was getting some sort of power, but not enough to activate the lights? Just enough dysfunction to fry the switch. I did notice but couldn't find a plasticky burning smell after driving, moved the transfer case wiring further away from the cat in case that was it. Apparently That. Was not it.
And that was that.
These aren't meant to be taken apart...
That's a bunch of crispy-brittle stuff.
Even before I pulled it apart I could see that it wasn't entirely disengaging/ de-energizing. There was about a quarter inch of loose play when the spring tension was released, which means it was not quite off.
random thought if that could account for the switch frying itself.
nice that they sent another one, hard to find a company with that level of service nowadays
05-25-2021, 06:06 PM
#4170
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
so i know you mentioned the aux lights came on when switched on, are they tied into your back up light circuit at all - IE: to come on with the reverse lights? if so do you have a relay? I lost a back up switch on the trekker because I had the pods wired directly into the back up light circuit with out a relay.
random thought if that could account for the switch frying itself.
random thought if that could account for the switch frying itself.
The following users liked this post:
2ToyGuy (06-07-2021)
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habanero (06-10-2021)
06-07-2021, 01:52 PM
#4172
Registered User
06-07-2021, 01:53 PM
#4173
Registered User
Terrible pun...but funny!
Pat☺
I don't know how I got a double post. How do I get rid of the second?
Last edited by 2ToyGuy; 06-07-2021 at 01:55 PM.
06-09-2021, 03:59 PM
#4174
Registered User
I've got a question for you. My DD is an 08 Prius, which admittedly has been a decent car. Not exciting in the least, but okay. The AC went out, and it's already 100+ degrees every day. The leak is in the evaporator core, which ironically enough I'm replacing in my 4runner tomorrow (and I've done that before). However in the Prius you've got to rip the entire dash out, down to the firewall. Terrible design for repair. I don't have a big desire to do this myself. With it being a prius, not a lot of shops want to take that on here because the AC system is different for the hybrids. The best quote I've found is $2300.
Okay here's the actual question. I've found an 04 Jetta TDI with a manual for less than the cost of the repair. I've never owned a VW, but I'd love to have a manual again, and a diesel is new to me, but I'd have more confidence working on that than a hybrid. Do you or your husband have any amazing words of wisdom for me about older VW TDI's?
Okay here's the actual question. I've found an 04 Jetta TDI with a manual for less than the cost of the repair. I've never owned a VW, but I'd love to have a manual again, and a diesel is new to me, but I'd have more confidence working on that than a hybrid. Do you or your husband have any amazing words of wisdom for me about older VW TDI's?
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chuckles89 (06-10-2021)
06-09-2021, 06:53 PM
#4175
Registered User
2003 was the last year of the 'old style' diesel engine (the ALH motor) which really set the reputation for lasting nearly forever. The ALH still has the mechanical injection pump, far simpler and less finicky (even if it has an electric throttle). And just generally ridiculously reliable and durable.
2004 would be the first year of the 'Pumpe Duse' engine (the BEW motor). It has a bit more HP (stock, 100 vs 90, but it's sturdy diesel horses), but doesn't quite have as good of a reputation for lasting forever. The 'dual pump' system involved some injector pumps driven by the camshaft, and apparently the cam lobes that run those will eventually wear and cause problems. Also, the higher pressure injection system can wear injectors out as well. If you get one, use really good synthetic oil in it, and use fuel additive. The manual trans is a good thing, slightly better MPG, and they last longer. Just be good about using good oil and filters (every 10K miles), fuel filters (every 30K) and timing belts (every 100k). It is an interference engine, more so than most (being a diesel) so a broken t-belt will kill it. When we bought ours the seller didn't know when it had been changed, couldn't fined any record of it, so better safe than sorry, had it changed. I'd normally do something like that myself, but it seems like it needed multiple special tools, and some software stuff to properly re-time the injection pump, so I just punted and had a local TDI guru do it.
I really like ours. It's a manual 2003 wagon - for the US market the TDI wagons were made in Germany. Not sure if the build quality is that much better on a German built Jetta vs. the Mexican ones, but... maybe? It's really good on road trips - you do feel the 90 hp accelerating in the higher gears somewhat, but when it's up to speed it just cruises with little effort, getting upper 40's mpg while going 80 mph. And it goes 700+ miles per tank (15 to 16 gallons). It's not fast, but it's not annoyingly slow either. It keeps up with traffic. Handles pretty nimbly for what it is. Gets upper 30's to low 40's mpg in city driving.
We take it on some road trips. Since it can't go far off road, we end up staying in campgrounds, and it makes us appreciate how the 4Runners can get us away from the crowds. Here's ours at Zion:
2004 would be the first year of the 'Pumpe Duse' engine (the BEW motor). It has a bit more HP (stock, 100 vs 90, but it's sturdy diesel horses), but doesn't quite have as good of a reputation for lasting forever. The 'dual pump' system involved some injector pumps driven by the camshaft, and apparently the cam lobes that run those will eventually wear and cause problems. Also, the higher pressure injection system can wear injectors out as well. If you get one, use really good synthetic oil in it, and use fuel additive. The manual trans is a good thing, slightly better MPG, and they last longer. Just be good about using good oil and filters (every 10K miles), fuel filters (every 30K) and timing belts (every 100k). It is an interference engine, more so than most (being a diesel) so a broken t-belt will kill it. When we bought ours the seller didn't know when it had been changed, couldn't fined any record of it, so better safe than sorry, had it changed. I'd normally do something like that myself, but it seems like it needed multiple special tools, and some software stuff to properly re-time the injection pump, so I just punted and had a local TDI guru do it.
I really like ours. It's a manual 2003 wagon - for the US market the TDI wagons were made in Germany. Not sure if the build quality is that much better on a German built Jetta vs. the Mexican ones, but... maybe? It's really good on road trips - you do feel the 90 hp accelerating in the higher gears somewhat, but when it's up to speed it just cruises with little effort, getting upper 40's mpg while going 80 mph. And it goes 700+ miles per tank (15 to 16 gallons). It's not fast, but it's not annoyingly slow either. It keeps up with traffic. Handles pretty nimbly for what it is. Gets upper 30's to low 40's mpg in city driving.
We take it on some road trips. Since it can't go far off road, we end up staying in campgrounds, and it makes us appreciate how the 4Runners can get us away from the crowds. Here's ours at Zion:
The following 3 users liked this post by Jomoka:
06-10-2021, 02:24 PM
#4176
Registered User
Thanks for the great response. That's why forums are awesome! I really appreciate your time in writing all that info down. You've given me more to think about and some homework to do. Seems like it could still be a good deal, and I'd really like to get back into a manual. I guess I could always just swap one into my 4runner.
06-10-2021, 05:16 PM
#4177
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the great response. That's why forums are awesome! I really appreciate your time in writing all that info down. You've given me more to think about and some homework to do. Seems like it could still be a good deal, and I'd really like to get back into a manual. I guess I could always just swap one into my 4runner.
MANUAL SWAP! Nobody could blame you for doing it...
06-10-2021, 05:18 PM
#4178
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
What 2ToyGuy said, except for the BOOO! part
06-10-2021, 05:23 PM
#4179
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
06-21-2021, 06:12 PM
#4180
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
96 4Runner 317,002 miles
Way behind on posting this...
Pick n pull's memorial day sale netted a rear window out of a '97. The defrost stuff is in better shape than the '96 so I pulled it for $15.
A little finesse, 6 bolts, the window seal in the hatch, turning the glass until it could clear everything and come out.
So I didn't read the manual, just did it.
Removed the tailgate panel, then the two metal panels underneath it.
Unbolted 6 bolts that holds the window onto the track (yellow arrows) access was easier when someone worked the switch up or down depending on which bolt you're trying to reach. Keep fingers and what-all out of the way while it's moving- and make sure the person toggling the switch knows not to touch it when fingers are present.
Unplugged the two defrost wires (green arrow marks their approximate position- they on on the bottom passenger side of the window) - spade connectors w/lever to release
Removed the seal (orange arrow) to get enough room to maneuver the window out of the tailgate by turning it a little until it can slide out.It pulls right off, but the piece at the bottom takes some patience if you find you need to remove it too, for space to work.
Right side bolts again
and left side
Don't forget to unplug the defrost (green arrow again).
It goes back in pretty much opposite of how it went out.
6 bolts, 2 defroster wires,
I used fipg to reseal the window gasket. It goes down in the rubber channel where metal meets rubber. There's probably a specific gasket goop for it, I just used what I had on hand.
Thought I took a lot more pics, but this was all I could find. It wasn't terribly hard to do, hardest part was getting the window just the right amount of crooked to get it out without scratching the defrost surface or window.
My only prior experience was removing the window at the junkyard.
Way behind on posting this...
Pick n pull's memorial day sale netted a rear window out of a '97. The defrost stuff is in better shape than the '96 so I pulled it for $15.
A little finesse, 6 bolts, the window seal in the hatch, turning the glass until it could clear everything and come out.
So I didn't read the manual, just did it.
Removed the tailgate panel, then the two metal panels underneath it.
Unbolted 6 bolts that holds the window onto the track (yellow arrows) access was easier when someone worked the switch up or down depending on which bolt you're trying to reach. Keep fingers and what-all out of the way while it's moving- and make sure the person toggling the switch knows not to touch it when fingers are present.
Unplugged the two defrost wires (green arrow marks their approximate position- they on on the bottom passenger side of the window) - spade connectors w/lever to release
Removed the seal (orange arrow) to get enough room to maneuver the window out of the tailgate by turning it a little until it can slide out.It pulls right off, but the piece at the bottom takes some patience if you find you need to remove it too, for space to work.
Right side bolts again
and left side
Don't forget to unplug the defrost (green arrow again).
It goes back in pretty much opposite of how it went out.
6 bolts, 2 defroster wires,
I used fipg to reseal the window gasket. It goes down in the rubber channel where metal meets rubber. There's probably a specific gasket goop for it, I just used what I had on hand.
Thought I took a lot more pics, but this was all I could find. It wasn't terribly hard to do, hardest part was getting the window just the right amount of crooked to get it out without scratching the defrost surface or window.
My only prior experience was removing the window at the junkyard.
The following 2 users liked this post by habanero:
75w90mantraN (06-29-2021),
chuckles89 (06-22-2021)
