habanero

Some out-loud thinking for the '96...
We had some great times going bumpity in the mountains and desert- some steep stuff here and there. I know I've asked before about the fuel smell and angry charcoal canister buzz on those downhills and, while it's not as bad- fuel smell and angry vsv zizzing sound- as with the old one, it was still happening.

So I was thinking....what about a check valve? My theory is that the gas tank is dumping some fuel via the return line on the really steep descents. I can't find much info on this or solutions, but I'm thinking a one-way check-valve would keep the gas in the tank while allowing the canister to do its job.
I'll have to scare up a schematic to get it figured out but I think other than finding a fuel-appropriate check-valve it'd be pretty straightforward...

What do you all think? Any thoughts or ideas?

habanero

96 4Runner 310314 miles

Just a new air filter, a pressure switch for the OBAir tank and a new safety valve today.

habanero

96 4Runner 310,365 miles

Just a couple of exhaust gasket leaks, one at the front and one at the rear converter- and drilling/tapping two broken 02 sensor studs that wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. It was nice to have some husbandio help for that mess.
I have the two front gaskets, need to get a new rear gasket and o2 sensor gasket.


I'm also going to have to hammer out a couple of the bigger dents in the skids while they're off- vacation collateral damage.

And I made the mistake of looking at the clutch pedal assembly- I replaced it the first time it got bad. This time I'll be using a brake pedal spring as described partway through this thread: Fixed! Stupid plastic clutch pedal bushing.

chuckles89

I would try it without a spring. Super easy and smooth and it comes up on its own.

habanero

Interesting...so you're not using any spring at all? I was going to ditch the big oe spring and go with a different form of return.



This evening in between bouts of cooking dirty corn chowder I pulled the glove box, support, blower motor and am working my way up into the dash. More fun tomorrow.

chuckles89

Yeah, just take out the spring and it's great!

The stock spring actually helps push the clutch in after a certain point on the pedal stroke, but it's just as good to have no spring (an no squeaks either!)

habanero

96 4Runner 310,365 miles

Nothing special, just got the gaskets to fix the leaks at either end of the cat.

Also pulled a blower motor out of a 98 at the Pick 'N' Pull Labor day sale to replace my noise lacking oomph blower motor. Much better/quieter/windier. Also, Pick 'n' Pull is having their Labor day sale if any of y'all are interested.

Here's the screw for the blower motor...there are 3 and require a T20 torx, a screwdriver, or an 8mm- I used the torx.


Also, I pulled the blower motor resistor out of curiosity...




Mine has some cracks, but still works fine. Apparently the symptom is the blower motor only works on high when it goes bad.

habanero

96 4Runner 310,610 miles

Still following up on the creaks, groans, thumps and bumps.
Today was the tell-tale light moving noise of the manual locking hub. Took it apart and, sure-enough, it was in need of a good greasing and cleaning.
Unfortunately it turns out it has a bad seal on the selector knob so I need to get one. I have pics of what-all is in there and will post it all up when I can finish the job with a new seal.
It's a little time consuming and a little bit of a puzzle, but not hard. It requires a light coating of grease. For once the cone washers behaved themselves.

Some part numbers- I don't need them all but gonna stick them here anyway:
Gasket Free Wheel: 43531-60010
Gasket Front Axle: 43422-60060
Cone Washer: 42323-60010
Hub Body Nut: 90170-08036
Hub Body Washer: 90201-08042
Cover Bolt with Washer: 90119-06024

habanero

96 4Runner 310,610 miles

Got my gaskets, finished cleaning up and greasing the hubs
Note: people generally make marks to put things together as they came apart. I...did not.

Exploded views in order of how it came apart...





See the tiny tiny ball and tiny tiny spring in the top row? Those go with/in the dial

habanero

I am not a mechanic, nor do I play one on tv. If you'd like a school lunch, that's something I know, I just do this stuff for grease therapy and take pics for anyone who could use them because who doesn't like pics?

To take the dial assembly OFF the rest of the hub make sure it's on 'FREE', unbolt the 6 12mm bolts holding it on.
I'm cleaning off the old grease, adding new seals, and regreasing with a thin coat of grease. There is such a thing as too much when it comes to grease for this application.

More of a pictorial than a how-to, this is mostly in the assembly part of the game.
The assembly:


The dial assembly


Is held in by a c-clip


When you pull it apart be very aware of a tiny tiny ball that sits between the dial and the ring, you can just see it stuck to the dial in the middle of the picture above. When installing I use a dab of grease to help hold it in place.


Behind that tiny tiny ball is a tiny tiny spring. It just sits there in the hold in the dial, I haven't had an issue with it jumping out of the hole on disassembly


In the above pic you can also see the shaped o-ring that seals the dial


Mine needed...replacement


The tiny tiny ball fits between the ring and dial in the notch in the ring


And the large c-clip holds the dial (and the tiny tiny ball) in place

Once you've assembled it, set the dial to 'FREE'


This is the gasket for the dial assembly


These 3 pieces go together like so, the spring fits in the groove in the gear, under the tab, and over the tab. The bent end fits on an ear to keep it from rotating.


Another pic of the small spring/gear/retainer assembly routing


One end of the bigger spring fits over the assembly above tightly enough to stay put




The other end of the big spring fits on the dial, to put the spring/gear assembly together press down, insert 'ears' of the assembly into the dial mechanism, push down and turn counter clockwise


To set to 'Free' (make sure the dial matches) turn the spring/gear assembly until it won't turn any more, should be cranked down like so


Now the assembly is ready for installation when it is time (it's not time yet)
When it's time to install it in the hub there is two small retainer ears (bottom center of pic) that fit into the larger slot on the hub (upper center of pic)

habanero

I've set the dial assembly aside, now it's time for the hub body.

First I unbolt the retainer bolt/washer (bright gold color). You may have to hold the cv still to get the bolt off. My little impact does the trick. DO NOT use the impact to put it back on!


There are 6 either bolts or studs (I have bolts on the left on and studs on the right) with corresponding washers and cone washers as pictured above. If the cone washers don't want to pop out a tap on the side with a brass drift should do it. All but 2 of mine popped out, when I tapped them I made sure that the split was in a spot that when tapped would cause it to close. I hate cone washers.

Now it looks like so and you can pull it off. I used a non-marking plastic hammer to loosen the hub assembly so it would pull off


Here's the back of the assembly. This time I'm going to go in 'pull apart' mode


A c-clip for the gear


Here's the gear (with a bit too much grease that I wipe some of off later)


A c-clip for the gear plate (sorry, don't know the actual terminology). I use a small screwdriver in the provided holes to pry this one out


One of my plates had an obvious indent for the c-clip and the other did not.


On the other side of the plate is a flat washer, just be aware it's there. It goes on this side of the plate. It will come out with the gear, and has to go in before the gear is re-installed.


Here's the nekid hub


And this is the gasket for the hub body


It's simpler than the dial assembly. I took it apart, cleaned it all up, put it back together, and set it aside.

habanero

And last of all- this is how deep you'd have to go to remove the cv shaft. Obviously you wouldn't disassemble the dial or hub assemblies, but you'd have to-
Set the dial to free
unbolt the dial assembly and remove
unbolt the gold retainer bolt/washer
unbolt the hub assembly and remove

then...
remove the c-clip that goes here




and the washer behind it


Now it's ready to remove once you unbolt the 4 ball joint bolts so you can move the spindle assembly aside, the rest would be just like an add hub r/r

I removed the washer and c-clip, cleaned up the old grease and regreased, then put it all back together. Make sure the c-clip goes into its groove.

habanero

Back to our regularly scheduled program
*important, I don't have the torque values at hand, but they are small, be gentle*

Everything is all cleaned up and greased and gasketed,

You've put the cv shaft washer and retainer c-clip back on.

Next comes the hub body. You may have to reach behind to turn the cv shaft to fit the gears so the hub body slides in place.
Once that's in it's cone washer, washer, bolt (or nut, depending on which style). I use the same 'star' pattern I use when I put the wheels on, tightening evenly and gently. I also use a small dab of loc-tite for pieces of mind though that's what the cone washers are for.

Next is the happy gold bolt/washer combo

and last is the dial assembly in 'Free' position, again you may have to rotate and there is only two possible ways it will fit into the hub body (tab sides go into larger notches). Once in place I hold it there and turn the cv shaft to make sure it rotates, then select 'LOCK' and attempt to make sure it doesn't rotate. Once again I turn it to 'FREE' to make sure it unlocks. Next I use the 'star' pattern for the dial assembly bolts.

And that's about it.

coopster

Great write up on the hub.
Where is the "Assembly is the reverse of removal'. ??Hahahaha!

"I am not a professional mechanic." I can't find a smiley-face thingy, How do you transcribe the tongue thru lips thing? Pffftt?

I work with many "mechanics". They could not make school sammiches. You're just not getting paid. Trust me when I say, Ms Hab: You got this.


I'm almost thinking this part should be a sticky. Carry on.

"

habanero

Hahahaha coopster....
Assembly is sort of and mostly the reverse of removal.

And thanks for the vote of confidence.

Would you like a sammich? Is it okay if there is a little residual grease on it? I do wash my hands quite a lot- and wear awful plastic gloves for food prep and serve.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Best manual hub disassemblage report I have seen yet.

habanero

Thanks Rustbucket!

It's been awhile, have taken on more responsibilities at work so have less time for fun.

96 4Runner 311,572 miles

Piddly stuff today.
My sunroof peed on my passenger seat after a rain followed by a freeze and then a melt. Thought the drain had frozen closed but it turned out my hose was crimped at the end where I'd bent it to fit it through the fender liner. I thought the angle wasn't that sharp. Stuffed a broken spring up there to keep it open. The end.

I also finally got around to swapping the clutch pedal spring for a brake pedal spring. Chuckles is right that the clutch pedal works fine without adding a new spring but I stuck one in there to help bring the pedal up that last little bit. I also adjusted the switch for the cruise control to make up for the rest of the slight pedal sag.
Was surprised it still had one of the clutch spring bushings left and that it was mostly intact.


The spring wasn't worn as bad as the last time I replaced it...this one is 10 years old. The clutch pedal itself is chewed pretty bad, I was starting to have issues with the cruise because of the wear.
The part number is for the brake spring that I used.


Switch on the left of the pic is for the cruise, the one on the lower right is for the clutch.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

One of my very first mods was the clutch-torsion-spring-ectomy and the linear extension spring replacement. The clutch pedal squeaked so bad when I bought the truck it was barely survivable. Maintenance records show that the PO pretty much took this truck to the dealership only to have the oil changed and to complain about the clutch pedal noise.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2524321-post7.html

habanero

I like how you fixed the spring rub- good idea. So far mine isn't, but certainly I'd be willing to pretzel up in there again to pull the assembly and nip the spring retainer portion, excellent idea.

Went out of town this week, the cruise control was acting screwy- this is the 2nd time I've noticed this behavior:
Cruise acts normal until I have to use the brakes. After braking using the 'resume' doesn't work and the cruise light flashes on the dash. If I turn it off, then on again it goes back to working fine.
Until I have to brake again.
Hoping it's a simple, as usual. Something like the switch at the pedal rather than the one at the steering wheel.
So far it's happened once with the original spring and once with the alternative spring.
Time to research and test.

habanero

96 4Runner 312,075 miles

So, as described above, Cruise acts normal until I have to use the brakes. After braking using the 'resume' doesn't work and the cruise light flashes on the dash. If I turn it off, then on again it goes back to working fine.
Until I have to brake again.

A quick search turned up the possibility that I've blown a stop light fuse and that's causing the issue. I went out in the dark and it does seem I don't have brake lights. I'll drag my poor husband out there tomorrow to confirm this is the case.
I did use the trailer a couple of times recently, I may have to dig into that wiring if it turns out there's a short in there somewhere. Here's to it being a simple blown stop-light fuse. More tomorrow.

EDIT: Yep, blown stop-light fuse in the engine bay.