Addicted Offroad's 2000 4Runner Build-Up Thread "Intervention"
#412
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#413
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it figures two of the sickest rigs on the site and they wheel with one another. As always looking good on the rocks scotty and love vwfastg60's rig as well! I would love to be a fly on the wall watching these two rigs do their thing on the trail. Good stuff keep posting.
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can you explain the process of your 98? F-150? gas tank swap. I am curious what you did for the fuel line extension and what you did for the fuel gauge and that wiring job. other than that I think I understand everything else...
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The tank fits perfectly between the frame rails in the back. I cut out the spare tire crossmember, then hacked the brackets for the hitch, turned them around and built the skid to hold it. So, the skid bolts on. Also, instead of strapping the tank to the body, I strapped it to the skid itself, so all I have to do to drop the tank is unbolt the skid, and the filler tube and drop it out. But, because of where the sending unit is place, I can replace a fuel pump or whatever without dropping the tank out.
I extended the fuel lines with standard rubber MPI rated fuel line on the pressure line, and standard low pressure line for the return and vents. I extended the wiring as well.
Wiring is as follows
Toyota side:
Brown: ground for fuel level and low fuel circuits
Black/Red: low fuel light
Yellow/Red: fuel level
White/Black: Fuel pump ground
Blue/Orange(?): Fuel pump +12v
Ford tank side:
Small black: fuel sender circuit ground (goes to Toy Brown)
Yellow/blue: fuel level (goes to Toy yellow/red)
Orange: fuel pump ground (goes to Toy white/black)
Large black/white: fuel pump +12 (to Toy Blue/orange).
Yellow/Blue: fuel sender
Remember that I also have it Supercharged, and the Ford pump works perfectly with that as well. I have around 3300 miles on it now that its finished without a single CEL other than a P420 for a bad cat, that has since been ironed out with the URD O2' simulator. FWIW, I had the P420 before the swap as well so its not from the SC, and I ended up cutting the rear cat out when redoing the exhaust anyway.
About the only thing I would like to do is to run the exhaust a little further back since it resonates a little in the cab at times. But, its not really possible right now with the link setup and where the shocks are mounted outboard of the frame. Plain and simple is that there is just no room. The Magnaflow sounds excellent regardless though.
#416
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What do you need to know?
The tank fits perfectly between the frame rails in the back. I cut out the spare tire crossmember, then hacked the brackets for the hitch, turned them around and built the skid to hold it. So, the skid bolts on...
Small black: fuel sender circuit ground (goes to Toy Brown)
Yellow/blue: fuel level (goes to Toy yellow/red)
Orange: fuel pump ground (goes to Toy white/black)...
The tank fits perfectly between the frame rails in the back. I cut out the spare tire crossmember, then hacked the brackets for the hitch, turned them around and built the skid to hold it. So, the skid bolts on...
Small black: fuel sender circuit ground (goes to Toy Brown)
Yellow/blue: fuel level (goes to Toy yellow/red)
Orange: fuel pump ground (goes to Toy white/black)...
By the way, I am waiting to win the lottery, and when I do, you're building my truck
#417
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So, I was thoroughly tired of dealing with bending on my old Pro Tools bender. It had served me well for the better part of 6 years. I started out manually bending with it, and then went to air/hydro a couple years ago. I had run MILES of tubing through it and it was time to retire it for a better system.
Despite going air/hydro, it would still take a couple minutes to bend out a 45 degree bend. Well, now it takes 10 seconds.
Today, the freight boys dropped off my new bender. I bought a JMR 1000 series electric/hydro unit.
This bad boy bends a 90* in a single throw in about 20 seconds. I bent out two full bumpers today in seven minutes, and that included switching dies from the 1.75" to the 1.25".
The dies are billet and warrantied for life. The pins are all heat treated 4140 cromoly. The cylinder is built in-house at JMR and is not only full hydro out, but also in. So, it retracts just as fast as it does extending.
FWIW, I have run both a Pro Tools and JD2. This bender is just badass in comparison.
Despite going air/hydro, it would still take a couple minutes to bend out a 45 degree bend. Well, now it takes 10 seconds.
Today, the freight boys dropped off my new bender. I bought a JMR 1000 series electric/hydro unit.
This bad boy bends a 90* in a single throw in about 20 seconds. I bent out two full bumpers today in seven minutes, and that included switching dies from the 1.75" to the 1.25".
The dies are billet and warrantied for life. The pins are all heat treated 4140 cromoly. The cylinder is built in-house at JMR and is not only full hydro out, but also in. So, it retracts just as fast as it does extending.
FWIW, I have run both a Pro Tools and JD2. This bender is just badass in comparison.
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Scotty, that was exactly the answer I was looking for in regards to your tank swap... the details and the lessons learned from the swap. When I thought through the process in my head I knew I'd have to extend the pressurized gas lines, but I was more concerned abt the sending unit used for the ford as apposed to the stock yota and the affects on the engine. Thanks brotha.