Is it worth it?
#1
Is it worth it?
I've been looking at a 98' 4runner at a used car dealer because I miss my Tacoma. He's asking $7700 and he said he could cut it down to $7400 for a cash deal, but I'm looking to get it for close to $7000 and he turned down $7100. It's a Limited with every option (besides a locker) and 114k. The frame is good and it runs nicely, but is it overpriced or am I just being unreasonable?
Thanks for any help, depending on what responses I get, I could forward a few hundred to get it or just keep shopping.
Thanks for any help, depending on what responses I get, I could forward a few hundred to get it or just keep shopping.
#3
Sounds reasonable. Though I know that prices tend to change a good bit depending on what part of the country you're in. That said, I paid $6800 over the summer for a 1997 Limited 4WD w/eLocker here in Georgia. 140k miles, one owner vehicle, all records, and Toyota serviced.
Check this thread - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...runner-118810/
Check this thread - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...runner-118810/
Last edited by dgz32; 01-13-2009 at 06:55 PM.
#4
It depends on your area but for FL clean trade in value is $5100, private party value is $6900 and from a dealer the value is $9200...... I think you are on par for $7000 but obviously the cheaper the better.
#7
Couldn't agree more, but it shouldn't cost extra. Most people don't even know the locker is there anyway which means they won't try to "sell" it to you. I bought my 96 without a locker and ended up swapping one in. It makes that much of a difference (if you wheel that is).
I say hold out for a private party sale, with a locker.
I say hold out for a private party sale, with a locker.
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#8
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#14
So heres how it went down. Yesterday morning I went about an hour and a half away to NJ to check out a 97' Limited w/ and e-locker, but it was sold half an hour before I got there, so I gave the guy my # to call me if it fell through. On my way back I check out a couple runners but nothing that great, and I finally get back to my town with the safety valve 98' limited I started this thread about and give it another test drive. This morning I wake up, go to the bank, and test out the 98' at highway speeds. I go home to wait from a call from another seller who wound up falling through, at which point I get ready to head out to buy the 98' for a little more than I would like to spend. At this point my phone rings, and I get a call from the dealer the day before about the 97' and he says that it freed up.
Around 4 I hightail it down to NJ, give it a long test drive, and put down a deposit on a 97' Limited with 120k, every option (including locker), and one owner. The back window will not go down, and the brakes are not up to par, but he will take care of them before I pick it up friday and head back to school. Thanks alot for the help guys Ill post up more pics when I have them.
Around 4 I hightail it down to NJ, give it a long test drive, and put down a deposit on a 97' Limited with 120k, every option (including locker), and one owner. The back window will not go down, and the brakes are not up to par, but he will take care of them before I pick it up friday and head back to school. Thanks alot for the help guys Ill post up more pics when I have them.
#16
Sounds good! At least tell us you're getting a used car inspection (from a shop) before shelling out the cash though...I mean brake trouble could be a number of things, including the infamous leaky rear axle seals. $50 could save you a lot of heartache down the road...just a thought.
#17
Sounds good! At least tell us you're getting a used car inspection (from a shop) before shelling out the cash though...I mean brake trouble could be a number of things, including the infamous leaky rear axle seals. $50 could save you a lot of heartache down the road...just a thought.
I hadn't planned on bringing it anywhere, its an honest shop with a clean carfax but that may be a good idea.
Last edited by saturday2112; 01-14-2009 at 06:03 PM.
#18
Just do a quick search and you'll see the threads (probably a lot of them). Anyway, the Cliffs Notes version is that the 3rd gen likes to burn through axle seals and I'm not sure anyone has come to a conclusion as to why. There are theories sure, but no solid, scientific conclusions that I am aware of.
Some possible causes are:
1. Clogged diff breather
2. Use of synthetic oil plus aging seals
3. Unbalanced rear wheels
4. Bearings starting to wear
5. All of the above
Once they leak, gear oil will start to seep through, saturating the brake shoes and inside of the wheels. This leads to decreased rear brake performance (thus increased front brake wear - and warped rotors). And some folks have had shoes bond to the drum via surface tension, causing the wheel to lock up. Nice huh?
The bad news is that the dealer wants about $700 (on average) to do both sides and a rear brake job. The good news is that the seals are cheap ($12 a piece I think) and the job isn't that hard. I've done both of mine. Took me about 3 hours (I bent one of the seals and had to get another).
A used car inspection could catch other things as well. If cared for 3rd gens are pretty much bullet proof...but if you have no proof of service, always assume the worst and get that inspection. Cheers
Some possible causes are:
1. Clogged diff breather
2. Use of synthetic oil plus aging seals
3. Unbalanced rear wheels
4. Bearings starting to wear
5. All of the above
Once they leak, gear oil will start to seep through, saturating the brake shoes and inside of the wheels. This leads to decreased rear brake performance (thus increased front brake wear - and warped rotors). And some folks have had shoes bond to the drum via surface tension, causing the wheel to lock up. Nice huh?
The bad news is that the dealer wants about $700 (on average) to do both sides and a rear brake job. The good news is that the seals are cheap ($12 a piece I think) and the job isn't that hard. I've done both of mine. Took me about 3 hours (I bent one of the seals and had to get another).
A used car inspection could catch other things as well. If cared for 3rd gens are pretty much bullet proof...but if you have no proof of service, always assume the worst and get that inspection. Cheers
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 01-14-2009 at 07:29 PM.
#20
Just do a quick search and you'll see the threads (probably a lot of them). Anyway, the Cliffs Notes version is that the 3rd gen likes to burn through axle seals and I'm not sure anyone has come to a conclusion as to why. There are theories sure, but no solid, scientific conclusions that I am aware of.
Some possible causes are:
1. Clogged diff breather
2. Use of synthetic oil plus aging seals
3. Unbalanced rear wheels
4. Bearings starting to wear
5. All of the above
Once they leak, gear oil will start to seep through, saturating the brake shoes and inside of the wheels. This leads to decreased rear brake performance (thus increased front brake wear - and warped rotors). And some folks have had shoes bond to the drum via surface tension, causing the wheel to lock up. Nice huh?
The bad news is that the dealer wants about $700 (on average) to do both sides and a rear brake job. The good news is that the seals are cheap ($12 a piece I think) and the job isn't that hard. I've done both of mine. Took me about 3 hours (I bent one of the seals and had to get another).
A used car inspection could catch other things as well. If cared for 3rd gens are pretty much bullet proof...but if you have no proof of service, always assume the worst and get that inspection. Cheers
Some possible causes are:
1. Clogged diff breather
2. Use of synthetic oil plus aging seals
3. Unbalanced rear wheels
4. Bearings starting to wear
5. All of the above
Once they leak, gear oil will start to seep through, saturating the brake shoes and inside of the wheels. This leads to decreased rear brake performance (thus increased front brake wear - and warped rotors). And some folks have had shoes bond to the drum via surface tension, causing the wheel to lock up. Nice huh?
The bad news is that the dealer wants about $700 (on average) to do both sides and a rear brake job. The good news is that the seals are cheap ($12 a piece I think) and the job isn't that hard. I've done both of mine. Took me about 3 hours (I bent one of the seals and had to get another).
A used car inspection could catch other things as well. If cared for 3rd gens are pretty much bullet proof...but if you have no proof of service, always assume the worst and get that inspection. Cheers
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