Wiring, fuse, etc advice
#1
Wiring, fuse, etc advice
Guys,
Edit: I've decided to rephrase the main intent of my post:
Does my wiring/fuse choices make sense?
I've spent the later part of 2 days doing a little research with the help of Corey in regards to planning my wiring and a future stereo system. The site that I've found most informative is http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fuses.htm
My immediate goal is to wire a 4-port Power Distribution Block (here's Corey's PDB ). From there, I plan to run my power inverter and my 100w x 4 amp.
The 400W power inverter is the same one Corey and many others have purchased:
The amp is a cheapo amp that a friend gave me. Its a Crossfire amp, rate 100w x 4. I want to power that amp to my 4 stock speakers. Or maybe just the front two. I don't know right now and open to suggestions.
Ok, first things first: Based on advice and what I've read, my plan is to do the following:
1) Run a 4 awg power wire to a Fuse A (125 amp fuse)
2) Run a 4 awg power wire from Fuse A to Power Distribution Block (PDB)
3) From PDB, run a 8 awg power wire to Fuse B (50 amp fuse)
4) From Fuse B, run a 8 awg power wire to Power Inverter
5) From PDB, run a 8 awg power wire to Fuse C (50 amp fuse)
6) From Fuse C, run a 8 awg power wire to Amp
Ground everything, of course.
Equipment Recommendations:
a) PDB- I've heard that Scosche makes really good PDBs. Any others? And should I get the Maxi-fuse kind? Or the AGU kind?
b) Power wire- is the generic kind you buy at Radio Shack sufficient? Or should I get some other kind?
c) Connections/cables from amp to 4 speakers---I have NO clue and any recommendation is appreciated
d) For the Fuse holders A, B, and C, any brand/model recommendations?
Thanks for anyone who actually has the patience to read through all of this and provide me feedback.
Bob
Edit: I've decided to rephrase the main intent of my post:
Does my wiring/fuse choices make sense?
I've spent the later part of 2 days doing a little research with the help of Corey in regards to planning my wiring and a future stereo system. The site that I've found most informative is http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/fuses.htm
My immediate goal is to wire a 4-port Power Distribution Block (here's Corey's PDB ). From there, I plan to run my power inverter and my 100w x 4 amp.
The 400W power inverter is the same one Corey and many others have purchased:
The amp is a cheapo amp that a friend gave me. Its a Crossfire amp, rate 100w x 4. I want to power that amp to my 4 stock speakers. Or maybe just the front two. I don't know right now and open to suggestions.
Ok, first things first: Based on advice and what I've read, my plan is to do the following:
1) Run a 4 awg power wire to a Fuse A (125 amp fuse)
2) Run a 4 awg power wire from Fuse A to Power Distribution Block (PDB)
3) From PDB, run a 8 awg power wire to Fuse B (50 amp fuse)
4) From Fuse B, run a 8 awg power wire to Power Inverter
5) From PDB, run a 8 awg power wire to Fuse C (50 amp fuse)
6) From Fuse C, run a 8 awg power wire to Amp
Ground everything, of course.
Equipment Recommendations:
a) PDB- I've heard that Scosche makes really good PDBs. Any others? And should I get the Maxi-fuse kind? Or the AGU kind?
b) Power wire- is the generic kind you buy at Radio Shack sufficient? Or should I get some other kind?
c) Connections/cables from amp to 4 speakers---I have NO clue and any recommendation is appreciated
d) For the Fuse holders A, B, and C, any brand/model recommendations?
Thanks for anyone who actually has the patience to read through all of this and provide me feedback.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 05-02-2003 at 11:24 AM.
#2
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
Bob, the distribution box you buy should have fuses in it.
Either long glass type, or the big blade type like I have in the pic you linked.
Here is my dist. box with the 400 watt inverter.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/corey_110v/7.jpg
wired to it.
The two 8 gauge purple wires are for the two Rockford Fosgate amps, while the brown 8 gauge wire is for the inverter.
I would hit up a good stereo store for the power wire.
Most stock it on big spools.
I wish I knew the name of the dist. box I have, as I like the blade style fuses better than the long glass ones.
My little dist. box in the link from me is made by Phoenix Gold, and most shops carry that brand, although it is more money than the generic stuff which works just as good.
Crutchfield should carry this stuff also.
PS, that is a great drawing.
What software did you use?
Either long glass type, or the big blade type like I have in the pic you linked.
Here is my dist. box with the 400 watt inverter.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/corey_110v/7.jpg
wired to it.
The two 8 gauge purple wires are for the two Rockford Fosgate amps, while the brown 8 gauge wire is for the inverter.
I would hit up a good stereo store for the power wire.
Most stock it on big spools.
I wish I knew the name of the dist. box I have, as I like the blade style fuses better than the long glass ones.
My little dist. box in the link from me is made by Phoenix Gold, and most shops carry that brand, although it is more money than the generic stuff which works just as good.
Crutchfield should carry this stuff also.
PS, that is a great drawing.
What software did you use?
#3
Corey,
Thanks yet again for the advice. I'll look for Phoenix Gold products at my stereo shop.
Yeah, the guy's article says that the AGU fuses aren't as good as the Maxi-fuse type but I wanted to get people's experience.
I used Photoshop to do the drawing. I did copy the fuse images from the guy's article.
Bob
Thanks yet again for the advice. I'll look for Phoenix Gold products at my stereo shop.
Yeah, the guy's article says that the AGU fuses aren't as good as the Maxi-fuse type but I wanted to get people's experience.
I used Photoshop to do the drawing. I did copy the fuse images from the guy's article.
Bob
#4
:rockbandossibly run the front 2 speakers off the head unit amp.Run the rear speakers off the front 2 channels of the amp.If possible,bridge the rear 2 channels of the amp together to run a sub-woofer.Just a thought?
#5
Solar,
I probably won't get a sub.
Corey: after re-reading your reply, you are right, I do not need the Fuses A and B since the PDB already has the fuses in there. I was being overly cautious, I guess.
Bob
I probably won't get a sub.
Corey: after re-reading your reply, you are right, I do not need the Fuses A and B since the PDB already has the fuses in there. I was being overly cautious, I guess.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 04-05-2003 at 09:30 PM.
#6
That "cheapo" amp is anything BUT cheapo. It will do far more that what it's rated for - that is fact. The class D 1000watt versions of that amp had a HUGE following in Db Drag racing. They "had" a huge following because Crossfire replaced the cfa version - like yours - with the bmf, then the VR. The VR is just more convienient to use and kicks out a little more power and has the huge following now. If that amp was given to you you got one HELL of a deal.
Now to the wiring, if the CFA rated for 100w x 4 @ 4ohm, you will need 4ga going to it. If the rating is for 100w x 4 @ 2ohm, then 8ga may suffice, but I'd use 4ga just to be certain there is no voltage drop. (I checked Crossfire's site and they do not have an archive to look up your CFA 404...)
As to the wire, dont let the shops butt rape you on that. Go to a welding shop and get some hi-strand count 4ga and 8ga. It's identical to the hi dollar stuff, just doesnt look pretty and doesnt cost NEAR as much. Just be 100% sure of which wire is hot and which is ground - no need to test and see if crossfire put a one way diode in that amp...
If I read correctly, Corey said he likes the maxi (big blade type) over the AGU (long glass type), not that either was inherently better. I agree - the maxi's look best, but they are pretty much all the same in terms of operation when you are talking about automotive use.
The ANL (waffer fuse) and has a range from 70amps to 300amp
The glass AGU can go from 5amps to 60amps
The maxi can go from 5amps to 80amps.
I have a 150amp ANL about 20" off of my battery on my 1/0 run to the rear battery. From there I use AGU glass fuses.
Other than those minor points, looks great.
As far as wiring everything up, the only thing I'd worry about and not go generic brand on is the RCA's. Go ahead and drop some of the cash on them that you saved with the power wire. Monstercable XLN are great but rather pricey. the 20' 4 channel XLN is about 89-110 bux.
Steve
Now to the wiring, if the CFA rated for 100w x 4 @ 4ohm, you will need 4ga going to it. If the rating is for 100w x 4 @ 2ohm, then 8ga may suffice, but I'd use 4ga just to be certain there is no voltage drop. (I checked Crossfire's site and they do not have an archive to look up your CFA 404...)
As to the wire, dont let the shops butt rape you on that. Go to a welding shop and get some hi-strand count 4ga and 8ga. It's identical to the hi dollar stuff, just doesnt look pretty and doesnt cost NEAR as much. Just be 100% sure of which wire is hot and which is ground - no need to test and see if crossfire put a one way diode in that amp...
If I read correctly, Corey said he likes the maxi (big blade type) over the AGU (long glass type), not that either was inherently better. I agree - the maxi's look best, but they are pretty much all the same in terms of operation when you are talking about automotive use.
The ANL (waffer fuse) and has a range from 70amps to 300amp
The glass AGU can go from 5amps to 60amps
The maxi can go from 5amps to 80amps.
I have a 150amp ANL about 20" off of my battery on my 1/0 run to the rear battery. From there I use AGU glass fuses.
Other than those minor points, looks great.
As far as wiring everything up, the only thing I'd worry about and not go generic brand on is the RCA's. Go ahead and drop some of the cash on them that you saved with the power wire. Monstercable XLN are great but rather pricey. the 20' 4 channel XLN is about 89-110 bux.
Steve
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-06-2003 at 06:06 PM.
#7
Bumpin Yota,
THANKS! I appreciate your advice esp the advice about about going to the welding shop to get the power cables. I went to a local Circuit City today to see some of the wires, fuses, etc that I've been reading about. I nearly had a heart attack when I saw Monster Cable 8 awg was selling for $1.99 a foot!
I'm also glad to hear that my "cheapo" amp is not a "cheapo" amp! My friend who gave it to me years ago is a serious audiophile, though i haven't heard from him in awhile (but thats another story). Cool---more incentive to install it! I'll go w/ the 4awg cable as you suggest from the battery to the PDB and 8 awg to the amp.
Bob
THANKS! I appreciate your advice esp the advice about about going to the welding shop to get the power cables. I went to a local Circuit City today to see some of the wires, fuses, etc that I've been reading about. I nearly had a heart attack when I saw Monster Cable 8 awg was selling for $1.99 a foot!
I'm also glad to hear that my "cheapo" amp is not a "cheapo" amp! My friend who gave it to me years ago is a serious audiophile, though i haven't heard from him in awhile (but thats another story). Cool---more incentive to install it! I'll go w/ the 4awg cable as you suggest from the battery to the PDB and 8 awg to the amp.
Bob
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#9
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 32,242
Likes: 21
From: Auburn, Washington
Back when I bought my 4 gauge & 8 gauge wire to do my stereo project, I did not know about the welding cable.
I forget what I paid for the Phoenix Gold wire, but it was not cheap.
Next time I need big wire like that, I will hit up the place I get my Power Tank filled up at.
It's a full blown welding supply shop.
I forget what I paid for the Phoenix Gold wire, but it was not cheap.
Next time I need big wire like that, I will hit up the place I get my Power Tank filled up at.
It's a full blown welding supply shop.
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