Well all things being equal if I had a choice to level mine out as it currently sits, I would. But the SS1 kit is what it is, and I'm cool with that too.
As soon as I load up the S/O, my dog and camping gear, it levels out. For the record the S/O is small and doesn't contribute to any leveling (hi honey). Also I tow my quads to the dunes pretty frequently (with camping gear) and even then it still sits level. For me this was the determining factor going with the #1 as opposed to the #7.

 

Incorrect. The original reason for the limit strap was to counter the extra 1" length of the OME shock (offered with the old lift kit) over stock or Tockico and the associated binding of the drooped CV. Rest assured, if Steve does not recommend running 2 top-outs he will not make and sell a band-aid fix to limit the damage if you ignore his advice.

 

Well, I guess my main goal is to run 285/75/16 without rubbing, or minor anyway. I might just do a 891 rear setup with the spacer up front. I've been searching but I havent found anything; does anyone know if I can run TrekMasters in the rear with 891's, or should I get some N86C's? I have heard the comfort shocks feels great. Any opinions?

 

I ran 891s with comfort shocks in the back. I can't remember, but, Im pretty sure it felt good.

As for fitting 285's, A 1" bl can be added to what you've got, and you shouldn't have any issues. If you do, you could always pound down the pinch weld...or cut.

 

if you do the 1' BL might as well go to 35's?--just a little trimming. I am with Aaron though--i wish there was some way to decrease the CV angles without a diff drop (lose clearance) and sit level, and have more lift up front?? I have the SS #7 but will be upgrading to SS #1 here soon.

Was going to go manual hubs--then i found out that manual hubs are weaker than ADD's. I guess the only real option is To get SASSY--sounds so "dirty" er or is that "get down and dirty"

Give it a try Aaron and tell us how it works out

 

By all means do what you want, I wasn't trying to tell you otherwise. I just got the impression from Steve that these lift setups were thought out to work exactly as they are currently set up. Modifying the setup will result in less than ideal operation (probably when offroad more than anything). I'm sure whatever you do it will look great and I suppose an extra spacer can easily be removed if you notice CVs starting to tear.

 

So is it the tearing of the CV's, Vibration, or the angles make CV's break easier that make raising the front not a good thing?

 

If you lift the front end too much the angle of the CV becomes too extreme. In offroad flexy scenarios you can tear the CV much easier than if the angle to begin with was not as extreme. This is how I understand it and may not be 100% correct.

I liked the look of running 285s but was not willing to add on/modify as much as would be required to run them. By running 265s I avoid all the "hassle" (to me) and they are fine for what I intend to do with my truck. Good luck man, post up some pics when you are done.

 

I'm running BFG AT 285's with 0 rubbing issues on my Limited which is what I told Terra a long time ago. I originally had 2.5" Daystar spacers on it and the only rubbing I had "then" was on the very inside edge of the running board, and even then it was only at max turning. I now have the Tundra/OME "7" style lift with the topout, and i'm more then satisfied with the extra clearence I achieved with this setup. In my opinion you don't need anymore lift to make 285's fit.

 

Do you not have rubbing while running around town or while offroad? I'm curious as I am putting on a SS 7.1 this weekend and even 265s look like them may rub the slightest bit while in bouncy offroad conditions. Also, did you remove the spacers or keep them on w/ tour Ss #7?

 

NO no, I took the spacers off. It was a 2.5" lift. I do have a topout in the front now and a .5" topout in the rear. But I am running OME's not LC's like he is. I haven't done any hardcore climbing or anything. But just doing forest service roads and what not I haven't had any issues. Now I did trim a little when I had the spacers on, but it seriously was a 1 inch piece off the inside of the running board. Once I put the Tundras on I gained even more distance from the boards. Now maybe if your really hitting stuff at weird angles and higher speeds than I, you'll rub. But we're still talking about inside plastic that won't even be seen anyhow.

 

getting a 1" body lift is not going to just let you 'go 35s'. backspacing would have to be insane and/or shaving the a-arms or just buying camburgs or similar unless you were to go with something like a 35x10.5, which would look pretty stupid and you'd still have significant rub. not to mention you'd have to regear just to gain some power back.....i've thought about this more than once haha it's not so simple

 

Ok well it's obvious where everyone stands on this, and thats cool. I run 2 spacers and thats that. Ill effects ? Nope. I bought my truck in Oct 05 with 68k added the lift in Jan of 06, I still have the lift (2 spacers and all) and have 151k on the truck. So If there were to be any ill effects I might have experienced them by now. How much you wheel will influence this as well. How much do I wheel, every chance I get. Best of luck with whatever you decide. And of course it will look good it's a toyota after all.

Aaron

 

Could you post a few pics frodin1? Thanks.

 

Its actually not that hard if you already have the lift--check out Sonoran Steels website and you will see that it isnt that difficult (i guess that is relative) as far as the 35/10.5--there would be the other theory of having tall skinny tires instead of floating (wider foot print). This is my next step and i dont think it will be that bad.

 

what are you talking about, a write up on his site? i don't go over there too often, i wish that site got an overhaul..not the easiest to navigate...anyways, links please.

and either way, terrarunner is running oem wheels. since he's talking about running dual top outs i doubt he has the money to pick up a new set of wheels backspaced like a mofo. the only thing i saw about 35s on a 3rd gen was a picture and a subcaption saying 4.5 bs and manual hubs, not too much info

 

I agree--his site is not always the easist to navigate--But yes it can be done.

http://www.sonoransteel.com/store_shaved_upper_arm.html

and you can retain the semi-stock Arms and wheels

Steve emailed and told me that it isnt the height--it is the width.

The only other point to be made is that he did go with 5.29's--but then again he is running the 2.7. anyways mute point unless he really considered 35's

 

I am running 315s with Steve's 1.51 kit and a 1.5" body lift and did more than what I consider "a little trimming".

He would need to run a 3.5" BS wheel like the Mickey Thompson Classic II (P/N 368412)

 

Definately. I just had to buy a new radiator. My friend and I put on my diff. drop and we couldn't get the center hole of the front skidplate to line up, so we struck a screwdrive up and pryed. We got it lined up with the bolt in and screwed tight, but the barely nicked a tube in the radiator. It wasn't fixable. But I did get my new one for only $169 with tax.

 

[QUOTE=Bighead;50614667]I am running 315s with Steve's 1.51 kit and a 1.5" body lift and did more than what I consider "a little trimming".

Not to Hijack--Sorry Terra about the Radiator--that bites

Big--

--Did you get the trimmed Arms from him?
--I know the TJM bumpoer sides need to be trimmed and rewelded
--So the 1.5" is the way to go versus the 1" RBBL?
--I know the pinch weld need to be grounded and rewelded
--From what i read it didnt seem like it was that much trimming--then again relative
So was there much more than that to be done--I want this setup soon so i just want to be prepared. What says you--inquiring minds are dying to know.