Obviously if you don't know what it is, you haven't done it, but I was just wondering who has done it on their vehicle.

Here is the link explaining it:

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=5;t=007801

Specifically I would like people that have Tacoma's that have done it, but anyone with the 3.4L engine that has done it will do. If you have done it, did it make a big difference with your vehicle? I have a LOT of aux lights and thought that it might make some difference in the way my electrical system handles itself.

 

I have not done it.
I really do not feel it will do much.I am a electrical eng. yes bigger wires will have less resistance but you need to consider the power source i mean alternator and battery . if you turn on your lights and fog light and .... can your supply keep up with the demand? you need to figure out how much amps you are drawing first .use a amp meter preferably a clamp on. how many total amps are you pulling.? then look at the gauge wire and there are charts with gauge vs amperage. http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Also are the wires getting hot or warm if so then you are under gauged and need to increase wire diameter/gauge.
this is my .02

 

Also it is not just bigger wire but the finer the copper strands are in the wire the closer it approximates solid wire and thus the more current that can travel through without losses. We don't use solid wire because it isn't very flexible but most of those cheap kits use very crappy coarse wound wire. You are much better off making your own kit if you are going to do this. My feeling is it falls in the category of diminishing returns but that is just IMHO.

 

I did it to my Runner about 4 months ago because I was getting a pretty big dim in the lights when the bass got going. To me it really seems like it helps. No more dimming when I crank it, also I have added a second amp since I did this and there is still no dimming. After reading about it I figured that it wouldn't hurt anything so I tried it. I went to the local welding supply store and used some #4( I think) instead of spending the extra money for the fancy 4 gauge wire. All is still well. Hope this helps!

 

YES!!! Use the welding cable instead of that fancy (and expensive) stereo store wiring. Welding cable will carry more amps and is more flexible than standard auto battery cable.

NOTE: If this helps your lighting issues (dimming, etc), and you still have your stock alt, all you did was correct basic wiring problems.
If you do upgrade to a high output alt, this is almost a required upgrade.

 

*bump*

I have a 97 3.4L auto 4x4 4runner I was looking around trying to find out where the stinking ground from my engine block to my frame was.
my plan go to welding supply store and buy 1/0 power wire.
go from + bat to alt
go from - bat to frame
go from engine block to frame (but I seem to find out where they put the ground)

from reading around it might be possible that I need to go from + bat to fuse box. can anyone confirm this??

-=jason=-

 

I upgraded the wire in my Tacoma, used 4gauge stereo wire. It may a little difference, my concern was when I did my bodylift I was kind of worried about the factory wires not having enough slack.

 

Why not just get a bigger Alternator and or battery?

Aaron

 

Do you mean body or frame? Those are 2 different things, there's not a lot of need for a ground to the frame (although I've run one for some rock lights mounted to my frame).

I did, but my battery was relocated to the other side too.

 

that is an understatement!

I still have no idea what you are talking about as this link just took me to a website about stereos?? What is this mod about anyway? Is it installing larger wiring to support large output amplifiers? What are you trying to attempt with this "Big 3 wiring" anyway, just want to be more educated. From the other posts it seems it could be many different things so educate an older 4runner guy.

This is where I got a bit confused if this is for certain electrical or is it to do with overall electrical cause I am always up for better transmission of trons. Teach me ObiWon, I am a willing student

 

Hey ritzy
What the op is talking about is increasing the cable size on the connection from the alt. to the batt. (+) and the batt. to the frame/block (-)[hence the "Big 3" name I guess] from the stock size (about a 6AWG) to a 4 or 2 AWG size to reduce the resistance and thus line losses .
When you increase the wire size (lower # AWG) you reduce the resistance of the line in question making more amps (and volts) available at the device. Motors will run cooler, lights brighter and so forth. It is a relatively cheap way to boost the performance of your overall electrical system.

 

Ohhhhhhh well that makes much more sense.

Aaron

 

Awwwwwwww now I see, once I was the student, now I am the Master! Thanks Aviator, I understand the issue of resistance and electrical theory, just never heard the term before and then to go to that link, well lets say I was soooo confusssssed! I may just have to look into this as well as I am considering an upgrade to a high output alternator (130) and possibly a second battery. Did that in an older Bronco I had back in the 70's.

 

heres a good one on Ultimateyota...
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...;topicseen#new
I think ill be doing this soon, As my batt and alternator are new think~~7 months...
And im getting dimming with my stuff, and bass, and hellas..etc..
annoying to say the least...

 

Here's another thread on the big 3:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...upgrade-95850/

 

i did it! huge improvement over stock wiring..
i still need to do the block to the chassis wire but so far it has worked beautifully.

 

did you remove and replace the original wiring, or simply add your upgraded ground wires parallel with the oem factory wires?

 

I just added to mine with the thinking that 2 are better than one (redundancy).

 

I've just done part of the big 3 [the neg. side] because I was having starter issues... used to be at night with all the lights on when I hit the turn/hazards I could see a pulse in the volt meter... now no more pulse...

 

Lookin' to do this soon. Duah beam headlights, fog lights, and the sub pounding makes me lights flash! Then once my alt. Goes out I'll do a gmc conversion.