ok, almost have everything,and I'm picking up my fan controller tomorrow.

What relays did everyone use? the reason I ask is alot of people started out with the low/hi and added a switch, now I see alot of you guys have switched over to hooking up low side only with it set to turn on with IGN or when A/C kicks on at set temp for the controller. I think I'm going to go this way as well.

The witeups all seemed to have different numbers of amps or sizes of relays depending on how it's setup

What else do I need to get while I'm at the store???

I have:

fan
radiator remount kit
flexible wire loom
foam window strip insulation for edges of fan


need to get:

relay(s)--
should I order the Painless harness from summit? $24.99 and is the FAN-THOM kit. a Relay, 30 Amp, Single Pole and wiring

washers for fan studs (size??)



what else do I need???

Thanks for the help,
Mike

 

I'm wasn't sure if the 30 amp relays had enough capacity for the fan on high so I used (2) 40 amp relays in parallel for a total capacity of 80 amps. I hate electricity though and I'm no electrical engineer.

 

damn 80amps that taurus fan has more balls than a FLX-210.

 

The fan controller has a relay.

The fan on low speed draws 30 Amps briefly on start then 10-11 Amps.
On high speed draws 60 Amps briefly on start then 28 Amps.

I just run mine on low speed and it seems to work fine.

 

http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm

 

which model would you use??

 

i got the FK-35 kit for $109 and i'm going to install it w/ my volvo fan...

 

I wanna see an update and a write-up when this is done as this mod is on my "to do" list. Anybody know of a write-up on a 1st gen using the Taurus/Volvo fan? Lots of good info but it seems to be kinda all over the place.

 

ok, so I got the Hayden fan controller and it has a relay. If I'm running low side on the fan only with no switch, wired to ignition, do I need any other relays as well as the one that's on the Hayden harness?

Also on the taurus fan, which color wire is low and which is hi power?

does anyone gave the washer size for the fan studs?

and did any of you guys that have done this recently trim off parts of the taurus shroud? it looks like it will fit w/o cutting on it.

thanks,

Mike

 

i am glad to see this thread, I've been meaning to do this mod.
I remember that there was a thread that had a complete write up on how to do it, But I can't find it now.
If you do find it, please post it.

Thanks
Kent

 

Ok , I found this write-up


fan writeup


2 SPEED COOLING FAN INSTALL IN 88-95 TOYOTA 3.0 V6 (LOW SPEED HOOKUP)
BY ROME THE SEAFARINMAN

PARTS REQUIRED:
-COOLING FAN SOURCED FROM 88-95 FORD TAURUS/MERCURY SABLE WITH 3.8L V6 ENGINE (LOCAL BONEYARD $30)
-HAYDEN THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER PART #3647 (AUTO PARTS STORE $40 edit: I have switched to a 185* fixed sensor)
-HAYDEN RADIATOR REMOUNT KIT FOR OIL COOLER OR ELECTRIC FAN (AUTO PARTS STORE $6)
-SELF ADHESIVE WEATHERSTRIPPING (AUTO PARTS OR HARDWARE STORE $6)
-(4) NUTS AND (8)FLAT WASHERS (AUTO PARTS/HARDWARE STORE) TO HOLD WATERPUMP PULLEY ON WITHOUT OEM FAN
-CRIMP TERMINAL CONNECTORS AND CRIMPING TOOL
-COOLANT 10.5 QTS
-ASSORTED ZIP TIES
-ELECTRICAL TAPE
-ELECTRIC DRILL AND DRILL BITS
-SPLIT LOOM TUBING (FOR A OEM PROFESSIONAL LOOKING INSTALL)
-(OPTIONAL) NEW THERMOSTAT(I CHOSE A 180* ONE-STOCK IS 192*-$9) AND RADIATOR HOSES ($23)
-(IF REQUIRED) GRINDER TO GRIND DOWN WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS

PROCEDURE:
A.) OEM FAN AND RADIATOR REMOVAL
1.) DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
2.) DRAIN COOLANT FROM COOLING SYSTEM. OPEN PETCOCK VALVE ON LOWER PASSENGER SIDE OF RADIATOR AND DRAIN INTO
A SUITABLE CONTAINER. MAKE SURE TO CATCH AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE SINCE THIS STUFF IS TOXIC, AND VERY BAD FOR
THE ENVIRONMENT. (THE EPA CERTAINLY FROWNS ON GETTING IT INTO THE SEWER) PETS LOVE IT, BUT IT WILL KILL.
BESIDES IT JUSTS TASTES REALLY BAD (DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW)
3.) DISCONNECT OVERFLOW BOTTLE FROM RADIATOR.
4.) DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES FROM RADIATOR.(BE CAREFUL WITH THE LOWER ONE OR YOU MIGHT GET TO TASTE THE
COOLANT LIKE I DID)
5.) UNBOLT RADIATOR FAN SHROUD FROM RADIATOR.
6.) UNBOLT OEM CLUTCH FAN FROM WATERPUMP.
7.) CAREFULLY LIFT OUT THE RADIATOR FAN SHROUD AND OEM CLUTCH FAN FROM BEHIND RADIATOR. SET ASIDE. YOU WON'T
BE NEEDING THESE ANYMORE.
8.) UNBOLT RADIATOR FROM SUPPORTS, AND LIFT RADIATOR FROM ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
9.) INSTALL METRIC NUTS AND WASHERS (SPACERS) ON THE WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS AND TIGHTEN SECURELY.
B.) THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER AND FAN INSTALL
1.) OPEN PACKAGE FOR THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER. REMOVE CONTROLLER AND HARNESS.
2.) LOCATE THERMAL SENSOR PROBE AND FOLLOW ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS. DETERMINE MOUNTING LOCATION BELOW UPPER RADIATOR
CONNECTION. TAKE A SMALL PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER AND OPEN A HOLE IN THE COOLING VANES FOR THE THERMAL PROBE TO
PIERCE THE COOLING VANES FROM THE REAR OF THE RADIATOR TO THE FRONT. INSTALL THERMAL PROBE ACCORDING TO THE
MANUFACTURER'S DIRECTIONS.
3.) ONCE THERMAL PROBE HAS BEEN SECURELY FASTENED TO RADIATOR, PLACE COOLING FAN ON RADIATOR AND DETERMINE YOUR
DESIRED PLACEMENT. (I INSTALLED MINE CENTERED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM, WITH THE EDGES RESTING ON THE OUTER EDGES
OF THE RADIATOR.) I DECIDED TO INSTALL THE FAN WITH THE FACTORY HARNESS AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION. I ALSO
FOUND THAT ONE OF THE FAN'S FACTORY MOUNTING POINTS COINCIDED WITH ONE OF THE ORIGINAL FAN SHROUD ATTACHMENT
TABS-SO I INSTALLED A 10MM BOLT TO TEMPORARILY SECURE THE RADIATOR, AND INSTALLED IT IN THE TRUCK TO GET AN
IDEA OF HOW IT WOULD FIT. THERE APPEARED TO BE VERY LITTLE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FAN MOTOR AND THE WATERPUMP
PULLEY STUDS.(3/8" CLEARANCE BETWEEN FAN MOTOR AND WATERPUMP PULLEY STUDS)
4.) REMOVE RADIATOR AND COOLING FAN. BECAUSE THERE WAS A POSSIBLE CLEARANCE ISSUE, I USED THE GRINDER TO GRIND OFF
THE EXPOSED STUDS BEYOND THE NUTS AND SPACERS. I GROUND THEM FLUSH.
5.) OPEN PACKAGE OF WEATHERSTRIPPING AND AFTER CLEANING EDGES OF FORD COOLING FAN SHROUD, APPLY WEATHERSTRIPPING
TO ALL EDGES OF SHROUD THAT WILL CONTACT THE COOLING VANES. I INSTALLED THE WEATHERSTRIPPING ALL AROUND EVEN
THOUGH ONLY THE TOP AND BOTTOM EDGES OF THE SHROUD WILL CONTACT THE COOLING VANES.
6.) OPEN PACKAGE OF RADIATOR REMOUNT KIT AND DETERMINE WHERE TO INSTALL CYLINDRICAL ZIP TIES. SINCE THERE WAS ONE
MOUNTING TAB THAT FIT THE RADIATOR SHROUD MOUNTING TAB, I DECIDED TO USE IT. I DECIDED TO INSTALL THE CYL ZIP
TIES IN EACH CORNER. TAKE THE DRILL AND A BIT, AND CAREFULLY DRILL FOUR HOLES IN THE SHROUD AROUND THE FAN
BLADES BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL INTO THE BLADES, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, NOT TO DRILL INTO THE RADIATOR. INSERT
THE CYL ZIP TIES THROUGH THE HOLES DRILLED INTO THE SHROUD, AND CAREFULLY PUSH THEM THROUGH THE RADIATOR
COOLING VANES. INSTALL THE LOCKS ON THE TIES, AND SNIP OFF THE EXCESS LENGTH.
7.) (OPTIONAL) INSTALL NEW COOLER THERMOSTAT (IF DESIRED)
8.) RE-INSTALL THE RADIATOR AND MOUNTED COOLING FAN UNDER THE HOOD. BOLT RADIATOR TO SUPPORTS, AND REINSTALL RADIATOR
HOSES OR INSTALL NEW HOSES.
9.) CONNECT THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER HARNESS ACCORDING TO SUPPLIED INSTRUCTIONS. (I CONNNECTED THE RED +12 CONSTANT
AND YELLOW +12 SWITCHED TOGETHER TO THE BATTERY BUT THAT IS JUST MY PREFERENCE.(edit: I had problems with the fan staying on all the time due to malfunction of the controller. I have since connected the +12 switched wire to the 7.5A ignition fuse using a "Add-a-circuit" piggy back fuse holder)

(17 DEC 03 edit: on 25 OCT, I installed a "cooling" indicator light in the dash so that I can verify when and under what conditions my fan comes on. I used the following part from Radio Shack
272-335 Blue Snap-in 12VDC Lamp assembly
I wired the light in parallel with the fan output lead on the fan controller and to ground on the other end. Works great!)

10.) ENSURE THAT ALL WIRES ARE CLEAR OF ALL MOVING PARTS SUCH AS THE POWER STEERING PUMP AND WATER PUMP PULLEY.
11.) REFILL RADIATOR AND COOLING SYSTEM.
12.) RECONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
13.) START ENGINE AND RUN TO NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.
14.) TEST A/C OVER-RIDE BY SWITCHING ON A/C. IF WIRED CORRECTLY, THIS SHOULD START COOLING FAN REGARDLESS OF THE
ENGINE TEMPERATURE.
15.) SHUT DOWN ENGINE AND TOP OFF COOLANT IN RADIATOR AND OVERFLOW TANK.

(Edit: Make sure to mount fan controller (adjustable) or relay harness away from the radiator and shroud. I have cooked (2) of these and have since swapped to a fixed 185* temperature switch~fingers crossed~it has been good for a week now, and a really scary trip to Evans Creek with the A/C running the whole time!)

16.) INSERT WIRING HARNESS INTO SPLIT LOOM TUBING AND WRAP WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE AS DESIRED.
17.) ENJOY THE LOW ENGINE TEMPERATURES, COLDER AIR CONDITIONING, INCREASED THROTTLE RESPONSE, AND SLIGHTLY BETTER
FUEL ECONOMY. (AS WELL AS THE MONEY THAT YOU SAVED FROM NOT GETTING THE FLEX-A-LITE FAN! )
THE SWITCHED HIGH SPEED SETTING WRITE UP TO FOLLOW WHEN I GET TO DOING IT ON MY RIG.