My 33" tires are looking very small rightnow. I was thinks of running 35's (So I didn't have to do much more than trium my fenders to fit them) but would realy like to run 37's. I dought my ifs can handle 37's, even if I got them to fit. So I am thins SAS, but just wondering what the biggest tire you can run with the stock toyota striaght axels is. And if they couldn't suport 37" tires what are the other axel alturitves? So in short just wondering what axel's people with large tires are using.

 

Most people recommend 33's for the IFS 35's with upgrades, and anyone running anything bigger would recommend a sas. Doing the sas and running a dana 44, you could run 37s i believe. yotas are light in comparison to what other people with 44's run and run 36's and 37's. I believe if you were to put a straight axle up front from older toyota, you could run 35's for sure, 37's maybe. They're pretty strong axles.

 

I'm running 38.5's on a stock solid Toyota front and a Ford 9" rear. The general concensus on several boards is that this is the maximum for a Toyota solid axle in a wheeling application.

 

Most of the guys around here run 37s (like myself) or 38s on solid Toyota axles, and don't break much with upgraded front shafts and birfs. I've known a bunch who've gotten away with 35s and IFS without much trouble. I've seen a lot of breakage with tires this big, but only when guys are stompin' the gas.

 

does the toyota rear hold up to the 38's?

 

Mine didn't. Boom.

 

hell, mine doesn't even like the 35s...

 

With a 22RE or a 3VZE, a Toyota rear holds up fine with 38's (usually). It's only when you start pumping massive amounts of torque into the diff that you have problems.

 

did your ford 9" have to be shortened? And what did you pull it from?

 

A co-workers friend has a truck just exactly like yours except it is a year older and has a 22RE in it. He has a 3 inch body lift, 4 inch suspension lift and "36 tires on it. It has IFS. I don't think he has had any axle problems, but he did bust his front diff on some trail somewhere.

Anyways, my $.02
Have fun all.
DH6twinotter

 

My Ford 9" came from a '58 Edsel by way of a '53 Ford truck streetrod. I don't know what the original width was but I narrowed it down from 62" to 60" by taking 2" out of the driver's side. I left the passenger side alone. Total cost of the shortening, adding a drain and a little straightening was $45. This did not include the axleshafts though as I had custom Moser shafts made. They are truly one-of-a-kind, they don't even match each other. Because of the dimensions of my axleshafts the wms-wms measurement with the disc brakes installed is 59½", about 4½" wider than stock.

 

I'm running a Chevy 350 with headers and some other stuff, good power. Toyota diffs, locked front and rear with newly rebuilt diffs and 38.5 boggers... NEVER HAD PROBLEMS!!! But, get smurfields...

 

Got a 2nd Genner with 35s & factory gearing & the IFS. No problems at all. I was going to get some bumpers but gearing up may be a better mod for me. Thinking 529s & lockers. How much should this cost me? What brand of gears/lockers? Blue

 

5.29s installed and set up would be $1000 for both, if you took out the diffs yourself. The parts would be like $400, so if you can set up your own gears (if you don't know whether you can or not, then you probably can't ) it'd be purdy cheap. It'd probably cost you $2500 to get diffs set up with gears and lockers (ARB lockers would be a little more w/ the air set up)

 

What is an LSD? Blue is my DD and Im wondering if running 529s in the front and rear but just locking the rear would work good or bad? Like I said I am currently running 35s on my automatic tranny. Thoughts? Blue

 

LSD=Limited Slip Differential.