What size amp fits under the front seat?
#41
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
Holy run on sentance batman!
![Wink](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I think we are agreeing but I've found there is a HUGE difference btwn a HU's 25 watts and a separate amplifier's 25 watts, hence the need for upgraded power wires, no tuner, etc....
I compete too, only in db drag racing.....
Holy run on sentance batman!
![eeek](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/eeek.gif)
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![Wink](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I think we are agreeing but I've found there is a HUGE difference btwn a HU's 25 watts and a separate amplifier's 25 watts, hence the need for upgraded power wires, no tuner, etc....
I compete too, only in db drag racing.....
![dunno](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#44
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Originally posted by Rymin929
I know, I just wanted to play too...
I know, I just wanted to play too...
![banghead](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
![grin](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/grin.gif)
![banghead](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/banghead.gif)
hmmm ive got progressively wierder/hyper as the night wears on, perhaps I should get some sleep....lol
#45
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Moral of the story if your lights dim, first upgrade all wires then hi performance alt
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Last edited by Del; 05-21-2003 at 10:07 PM.
#46
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My biggest reservation in buying an amplifier is the install part. But everyone I've talked to is just so damn insistent that I don't run the Focals off of the Nakamichi head unit. So I broke down and bought a PPI PCX-440 over the internet today. Based on the dimensions under my front drivers seat, it should fit with some room to spare. Does anyone know a link to a good amplifier installation tutorial? I need to figure out what I need apart from the amp (RCA's, speaker wire etc.). It seems like it's going to be an awfully large amount of wires. Do they all go underneath the plastic foot paneling along the doors? What originally seemed like a plug and play installation is beginning to sound a bit scary.
#47
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Jeff,
Don't worry, installing amp is not difficult at all.
Here are the wires you'll need to run:
1. 8 gauge power wire from battery to the amp (usually red)
2. 8 gauge ground wire from amp to the body of the car (usually black)
3. Pair of RCA wires from the head unit to the amp
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
5. Blue power wire from the head unit to the amp (on/off)
And that's all! In a nutshell, you connect RCA wires from the head unit to the amp and connect speakers directly the amp. On top of that, there are just a few more wires for amp to work.
Most amps come with wiring diagram, and where to place all the wires is really up to you. I personally ran all wires under the carpet, so nobody besides me even knows that they're there.
Just plan ahead on what you want to do and you'll be fine![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-- Andrey
Don't worry, installing amp is not difficult at all.
Here are the wires you'll need to run:
1. 8 gauge power wire from battery to the amp (usually red)
2. 8 gauge ground wire from amp to the body of the car (usually black)
3. Pair of RCA wires from the head unit to the amp
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
5. Blue power wire from the head unit to the amp (on/off)
And that's all! In a nutshell, you connect RCA wires from the head unit to the amp and connect speakers directly the amp. On top of that, there are just a few more wires for amp to work.
Most amps come with wiring diagram, and where to place all the wires is really up to you. I personally ran all wires under the carpet, so nobody besides me even knows that they're there.
Just plan ahead on what you want to do and you'll be fine
![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-- Andrey
Last edited by Andrey; 05-22-2003 at 08:07 AM.
#48
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Sounds good except I'm confused by this part:
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
If the RCA's are going from the head unit to the amp and the speaker wires are goinf from the amp to the speakers, why do i need to run speaker wires between the head unit wiring harness and the amp?
Also... what about fuse boxes and capacitors? Or are those only for people running multiple subwoofer, SPL intensive systems?
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
If the RCA's are going from the head unit to the amp and the speaker wires are goinf from the amp to the speakers, why do i need to run speaker wires between the head unit wiring harness and the amp?
Also... what about fuse boxes and capacitors? Or are those only for people running multiple subwoofer, SPL intensive systems?
#49
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Originally posted by Jeff_M
Sounds good except I'm confused by this part:
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
If the RCA's are going from the head unit to the amp and the speaker wires are goinf from the amp to the speakers, why do i need to run speaker wires between the head unit wiring harness and the amp?
Also... what about fuse boxes and capacitors? Or are those only for people running multiple subwoofer, SPL intensive systems?
Sounds good except I'm confused by this part:
4. Set of 4 pairs of speaker wires from the head unit wiring harness to the amp.\
If the RCA's are going from the head unit to the amp and the speaker wires are goinf from the amp to the speakers, why do i need to run speaker wires between the head unit wiring harness and the amp?
Also... what about fuse boxes and capacitors? Or are those only for people running multiple subwoofer, SPL intensive systems?
As far as capacitors, you wont' really need those. You system will sound perfectly fine without those. For fuses you'll just need one 40A fuse which you should implement somewhere in the power wire which runs from the battery to the amp. Other fuses are already on the amp.
Also, you can buy the entire wire kit at BestBuy or CircuitCity for $35 or so. It will include power wire, ground wire, speaker wires and fuses, everythign in one package
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-- Andrey
#50
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Also, just in case you'd want someone else to do all the work, the professional installation runs about $60 or so plus wires. These option might save you a lot of frustration and headaches, while achieving the same result.
-- andrey
-- andrey
#51
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OK, I understand now what you mean about sending the speaker wires from the amp to the receiver wiring harness. That way you don't have to worry about snaking wires. This brings me back to the issue of the factory amp... if i wire into the receivers wiring harness, the signal gets passed to the factory amp before it goes to the factory speaker wiring. Isn't it pointless for me to spend big $$$ on a PPI amp if the crappy factory amp is simply going to take this high level signal and amplify it itself? It seems to me that the only way to circumvent this occurence is to send speaker wires directly from the amp to the speakers.
#52
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You will need to bypass the factory amp. Don't even unscrew it, just diconnect it and leave the everything else in its place in case you'll decide to sell your car several years down the road.
There are 8 wires that go in the factory amp (a pairs for each speaker), so just connect your speakers wires to those factory wires. You'll have a very clean look and no need to take half of your car apart just to run some wires![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-- Andrey
There are 8 wires that go in the factory amp (a pairs for each speaker), so just connect your speakers wires to those factory wires. You'll have a very clean look and no need to take half of your car apart just to run some wires
![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-- Andrey
#54
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Jeff,
On my '01 4Runner those wires were connected to the special connector, and that connector was plugged in the amp.
In your situation, you can just cut the whole thing and connect wires individually (just makes sure you'll mark which one is which one, hehe), and that is the easiest way if you're not planning on connecting factory amp back.
Second option is to buy the special connectors at HomeDepot ($2.95 for a set of 20) which will let you connect wires without cutting anything. It is definitely more work, things wont' look as nice, but if you'll ever decide to get rid or your amp or something, it will be just a piece of cake connecting everythign back.
-- Andrey
On my '01 4Runner those wires were connected to the special connector, and that connector was plugged in the amp.
In your situation, you can just cut the whole thing and connect wires individually (just makes sure you'll mark which one is which one, hehe), and that is the easiest way if you're not planning on connecting factory amp back.
Second option is to buy the special connectors at HomeDepot ($2.95 for a set of 20) which will let you connect wires without cutting anything. It is definitely more work, things wont' look as nice, but if you'll ever decide to get rid or your amp or something, it will be just a piece of cake connecting everythign back.
-- Andrey
#55
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I've heard that you shoud avoid running power cables close to rca's/speaker wire. With the amp under the drivers seat, I will have to run the rca's and speaker wire along the drivers side. Does this mean I'll have to run the power and remote turn-on along the passenger side and then across the middle of the car to the drivers seat? I hope I can do this cleanly. Also, what is the point of adding a fuse to the power line if the amp has its own fuse?
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Jeff, you're correct about running RCA wires along with power wires.
I have run power wire across the left side, right below that door molding. My blue remote turn on wire, speaker wires and RCA wires run below the center console.
Point of adding fuse to the power line is to prevent amp from burning or melting. Your car's battery might mulfunction for one reason or another, and it will burn this fuse first before burning the wire which is inside of your car. You don't really have to put a fuse if you don't want to, but I would rather change a fuse on the wire in the hood comparment than taking off my entire seat to get access to the amp's fuse or to have my brand new 4Runner on fire.
-- Andrey
I have run power wire across the left side, right below that door molding. My blue remote turn on wire, speaker wires and RCA wires run below the center console.
Point of adding fuse to the power line is to prevent amp from burning or melting. Your car's battery might mulfunction for one reason or another, and it will burn this fuse first before burning the wire which is inside of your car. You don't really have to put a fuse if you don't want to, but I would rather change a fuse on the wire in the hood comparment than taking off my entire seat to get access to the amp's fuse or to have my brand new 4Runner on fire.
-- Andrey
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You guys have all been a great help so far, especially Andrey!
I ordered a Phoenix Gold Amp kit this afternoon. I already have my RCA's and speaker cable. Can you take a look at this kit and tell me if I need anything else? I know the amp has a 50amp fuse. The kit says it has a 30amp fuse. What do I do about this?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6312&DID=7
I ordered a Phoenix Gold Amp kit this afternoon. I already have my RCA's and speaker cable. Can you take a look at this kit and tell me if I need anything else? I know the amp has a 50amp fuse. The kit says it has a 30amp fuse. What do I do about this?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=6312&DID=7
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That kit is just perfect for what you'll need and exactly the one which I was talking about. It has all the wires, all the connectors, all the plugs, everything! And the price is even cheaper than if you would buy those parts separately ![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You also should be just fine with 30A fuse, since if you'll need more current than that, than there is a problem somewhere in your wiring or something isn't grounded correctly.
-- Andrey
![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You also should be just fine with 30A fuse, since if you'll need more current than that, than there is a problem somewhere in your wiring or something isn't grounded correctly.
-- Andrey
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Well I received the PPI PCX-440 amp and Phoenix Gold install kit yesterday so I'm good to go for tommorow's install! I'd like to thank everyone, especially Andrey, for their helpful advice. I carefully measured the length and width under my front seat and chose the PPI amp based on size/power/price considerations. Unfortunately when I went to place the amp under the seat to get a feel for how I'd install it I realized I made a big error... the height of the amp is too big! I can get it to fit under my seat, but I can no longer move my power seat backwards. I'm not the tallest guy, so this is fine, but I hate giving up the ability to move the seat, and god forbid one of my tall friends tries to move the seat back and fries the power seat mechanism! I'll have to do some more measurements when I get home. I have yet another install question so bear with me...
I'm planning on using all 4 channels of the PPI amp to run the Focal component speakers in the front door. Each channel allows you to run a high and a low pass crossover. It's been somewhat tough to get the Focal component crossover to fit behind the door panel. Can I each driver directly to it's crossovered amp channel and ditch the Focal crossovers? How will this affect the sound?
I'm planning on using all 4 channels of the PPI amp to run the Focal component speakers in the front door. Each channel allows you to run a high and a low pass crossover. It's been somewhat tough to get the Focal component crossover to fit behind the door panel. Can I each driver directly to it's crossovered amp channel and ditch the Focal crossovers? How will this affect the sound?
#60
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Jeff,
I'm not sure why your amp wont' fit under the seat. My PhoenixGold Octane-R 5.0:4 amplifier is pretty much the same in size (13.75L x 10.875W x 2.25H) as your PPI PCX-440 (13.75L x 10W x 2.375H) and I still have plenty of room to spare. Most likely after you'll screw the amplifier to the floor, you will have absolutely no problems moving seat back and forward.
As far as bypassing crossovers, I personally wouldn't recommend that. This way you totally defeat the purpose of tweeters and your sound will be distorted. Also, if focals dont' fit behind the door plastic (the one which holds the speaker) or on the bottom of the door (the place where glass stops, behind the metal part), you can always use some other smaller crossovers. As a matter of fact, I even have two extra Pioneer Premier crossovers which I can't use after my speaker blew out. They're about 6 months old and they were perfect fit in my 2001 4Runner front doors. If you want them, let me know and we can arrange something.
-- Andrey
I'm not sure why your amp wont' fit under the seat. My PhoenixGold Octane-R 5.0:4 amplifier is pretty much the same in size (13.75L x 10.875W x 2.25H) as your PPI PCX-440 (13.75L x 10W x 2.375H) and I still have plenty of room to spare. Most likely after you'll screw the amplifier to the floor, you will have absolutely no problems moving seat back and forward.
As far as bypassing crossovers, I personally wouldn't recommend that. This way you totally defeat the purpose of tweeters and your sound will be distorted. Also, if focals dont' fit behind the door plastic (the one which holds the speaker) or on the bottom of the door (the place where glass stops, behind the metal part), you can always use some other smaller crossovers. As a matter of fact, I even have two extra Pioneer Premier crossovers which I can't use after my speaker blew out. They're about 6 months old and they were perfect fit in my 2001 4Runner front doors. If you want them, let me know and we can arrange something.
-- Andrey