What size amp fits under the front seat?
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#22
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Very informative link! Is that a factory crossover I see in the picture with the panel removed? Or are each of the 2 drivers wired directly into the head unit?
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Door speakers are wired directly to the amp. The factory amplifier is located right below your factory deck.
If you'll be upgrading your factory speakers to aftermarket components, you probably will need to mount the crossover which comes with your new speakers somewhere in the door. My Infinity crossover fitted perfectly right behind that plastic which holds the speaker.
-- Andrey
If you'll be upgrading your factory speakers to aftermarket components, you probably will need to mount the crossover which comes with your new speakers somewhere in the door. My Infinity crossover fitted perfectly right behind that plastic which holds the speaker.
-- Andrey
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So the factory wire that goes to the woofer carries the full frequency range (I assume this because you said there's no factory crossover)? So that wire goes into the focal crossover input and then I run wires from the low outputs on the crossover to the woofer and from the high outputs on the crossover to the tweeter? Now if the factory head unit is connected to a factory amp to which the speaker wires are connected, what happens when I swap in the Nakamichi head unit? Using a Toyota wiring harness, won't the Nakamichi's amplified outputs be fed into the factory amplifier before going to the speakers? I assume that in this configuration, this signal is simply passed through the factory amp as if it's just another piece of wire. Am I correct?
#25
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Originally posted by OneTrickToy
When the bass hits really hard it needs supplimental power. A capacitor gives the amp extra juice when needed. A Farad is the measure of electrical capacity. When you see people with their lights dimming to the music.... that is someone without a Cap.
When the bass hits really hard it needs supplimental power. A capacitor gives the amp extra juice when needed. A Farad is the measure of electrical capacity. When you see people with their lights dimming to the music.... that is someone without a Cap.
Beyond that looks like everyone covered everything
Steve
#26
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Originally posted by Jeff_M
So the factory wire that goes to the woofer carries the full frequency range (I assume this because you said there's no factory crossover)? So that wire goes into the focal crossover input and then I run wires from the low outputs on the crossover to the woofer and from the high outputs on the crossover to the tweeter?
correctomundo!
Now if the factory head unit is connected to a factory amp to which the speaker wires are connected, what happens when I swap in the Nakamichi head unit? Using a Toyota wiring harness, won't the Nakamichi's amplified outputs be fed into the factory amplifier before going to the speakers? I assume that in this configuration, this signal is simply passed through the factory amp as if it's just another piece of wire. Am I correct?
This I do not know and is something you'd have to check into when you pull it out. The HU from toyota or Nak (it doesn't matter which) can only transfer the material it has to the amp via two pathways. RCA's OR hi-level inputs(speaker leads). The RCA's would be evident when you pull the factory HU out, I personally think that 'yota took the easy way out and used the HU's high level outputs to feed signal to the factory amplifier. But as I said, that will become apparent when you pull the factory HU. (HU = head unit/cd player/tuner) In any event just go to wal mart and pick up a cd player harness specific for your year and make of truck and splice up everything you can dont worry eveything is labeled.![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also you question about the signal just passing through the amp - NO! The wires from the factory HU going to the amp probably only carry 2 or 3 watts. The factory amplifier will amplify this many times (hopefully.) If the factory amplifier has a gain, swapping HU's can REALLY REALLY help sound quality and volume.
So the factory wire that goes to the woofer carries the full frequency range (I assume this because you said there's no factory crossover)? So that wire goes into the focal crossover input and then I run wires from the low outputs on the crossover to the woofer and from the high outputs on the crossover to the tweeter?
correctomundo!
Now if the factory head unit is connected to a factory amp to which the speaker wires are connected, what happens when I swap in the Nakamichi head unit? Using a Toyota wiring harness, won't the Nakamichi's amplified outputs be fed into the factory amplifier before going to the speakers? I assume that in this configuration, this signal is simply passed through the factory amp as if it's just another piece of wire. Am I correct?
This I do not know and is something you'd have to check into when you pull it out. The HU from toyota or Nak (it doesn't matter which) can only transfer the material it has to the amp via two pathways. RCA's OR hi-level inputs(speaker leads). The RCA's would be evident when you pull the factory HU out, I personally think that 'yota took the easy way out and used the HU's high level outputs to feed signal to the factory amplifier. But as I said, that will become apparent when you pull the factory HU. (HU = head unit/cd player/tuner) In any event just go to wal mart and pick up a cd player harness specific for your year and make of truck and splice up everything you can dont worry eveything is labeled.
![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
also you question about the signal just passing through the amp - NO! The wires from the factory HU going to the amp probably only carry 2 or 3 watts. The factory amplifier will amplify this many times (hopefully.) If the factory amplifier has a gain, swapping HU's can REALLY REALLY help sound quality and volume.
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 05-20-2003 at 10:53 AM.
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Interesting... If the factory head unit were to connect the factory amp via high level inputs, wouldn't the signal already be amplified in which case the amp would be doing nothing? I just want to make sure that I'll be bypassing the crappy amp when I hook my Nakamichi up using the Toyota wiring harness (purchased from Crutchfield).
#28
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Originally posted by Jeff_M
Interesting... If the factory head unit were to connect the factory amp via high level inputs, wouldn't the signal already be amplified in which case the amp would be doing nothing? I just want to make sure that I'll be bypassing the crappy amp when I hook my Nakamichi up using the Toyota wiring harness (purchased from Crutchfield).
Interesting... If the factory head unit were to connect the factory amp via high level inputs, wouldn't the signal already be amplified in which case the amp would be doing nothing? I just want to make sure that I'll be bypassing the crappy amp when I hook my Nakamichi up using the Toyota wiring harness (purchased from Crutchfield).
Steve
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Jeff it all depends on how much power you want, there are alot of good high powered amplifers that are out there that will fit under your seats. The next best option would be somthing similar to what Andrey's done. There is a ton of room behind those quarter trims. It all depends on to what extent your gonna take your system.
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Originally posted by Andrey
Here is some "work in progress" just to give you an idea...
I have an entire day off from work tomorrow, so I hopefully should be done and I will definitely post some much nicer pictures.
Here is some "work in progress" just to give you an idea...
I have an entire day off from work tomorrow, so I hopefully should be done and I will definitely post some much nicer pictures.
![](http://www.andreys.com/misc/sound/stereo1.jpg)
![](http://www.andreys.com/misc/sound/stereo2.jpg)
![](http://www.andreys.com/misc/sound/stereo3.jpg)
![](http://www.andreys.com/misc/sound/stereo4.jpg)
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Originally posted by Rymin929
Why is your 8500mp/850mp Premier depending front mounted with the trim ring? Or is it just stuck on over the face?
Why is your 8500mp/850mp Premier depending front mounted with the trim ring? Or is it just stuck on over the face?
Overall, I think Pioneer decks look much better with that trim and don't look so "naked"
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Originally posted by Rymin929
That's kool, I just couldn't see why it had the trim ring on it since it didn't need it.
That's kool, I just couldn't see why it had the trim ring on it since it didn't need it.
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#35
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Originally posted by Rymin929
How's it sound?
How's it sound?
![Smilie](https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Very clean, loud and my woofer in the rear compensates for all the bass I'm missing from my rear speakers. I even received an offer from Infinity to demo my current system, and in reward they'll give me a free set of golden wires and golden connectors to make the system sound even better (they'll do that before the show). I think I'm gonna do it....
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#36
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What Infinity stuff are you runnin'? All the front's and rear's? All I can see from the pics is a PG, Rockford amp, and a Premier deck and a Mobile Authority sub?
:pat:
:pat:
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Here is my current setup:
deck: Pioneer DEH-P8500MP unit
front speakers: Infinity Reference 6000cs
rear speakers: Infinity Reference 4002i
subwoofer: Audiobahn 8" (not sure which model exactly, the Mobile Authority sub didn't sound very clean for some reason)
amplifiers:
main: Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.0:4
sub: RockfordFosgate 400 mono
deck: Pioneer DEH-P8500MP unit
front speakers: Infinity Reference 6000cs
rear speakers: Infinity Reference 4002i
subwoofer: Audiobahn 8" (not sure which model exactly, the Mobile Authority sub didn't sound very clean for some reason)
amplifiers:
main: Phoenix Gold Octane-R 5.0:4
sub: RockfordFosgate 400 mono
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That's cool you should have the same Infinity Reps out there that we have out here. I helped them build a demo car out here. Have fun playin' with the tunes and good luck with the demo deal...
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
Yes, technically it's been amplified, but probably not to the point that it could power a component (or coaxial) set with. The first thing I'd try is to use the factory amp on the component set, just with the new Nak... If that doesnt suite your fancy, then just rip out the old amp, buy a new amp (even if it's just a 25x2 amp) and run RCA's. I would REALLY hesitate to run a component set off of any deck's internal amp. I wont use a deck that even has hi level outputs.....
Steve
Yes, technically it's been amplified, but probably not to the point that it could power a component (or coaxial) set with. The first thing I'd try is to use the factory amp on the component set, just with the new Nak... If that doesnt suite your fancy, then just rip out the old amp, buy a new amp (even if it's just a 25x2 amp) and run RCA's. I would REALLY hesitate to run a component set off of any deck's internal amp. I wont use a deck that even has hi level outputs.....
Steve
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#40
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Originally posted by Rymin929
I will dissagree to some extent, yes some newer high powered head units can run some sets of component speakers. Very well, that's a totally different question. Your factory amplifier was to take place of all the crap shall we say that Toyota factory decided to cram into all of our stock head units tape deck for allot of us, useless! Almost any head unit can power a moderate set of coaxial or component speakers without failure ever but when you start to get into the higher level (quality and $$$) speaker sets I would agree with no they won't. Deck power is still deck power no matter how many watts each brand may state. The analogy that I use in the biz is how can a 60x4 watt deck be compaired to a 60x4 watt amplifier when the amplifier needs upgraded wire and is usually twice the size of a head unit and it doesn't even contain the cd player or radio tuner? Your factory speaker setup is the same way as most moderate level coaxial speaker and some components, you have a midrange speaker and a tweeter with a capacitor on the tweeter to filter out all the low range freq. to keep it from blowing up. However your factory setup in no way compares to these moderate level speaker because mostly of there construction which in my case on my new 03' Taco they where still a paper coned midrange, almost nobody uses paper anymore except for the factory. I along with Bumpin' also go for the more high end head units that don't have any internal power (speaker outputs) or at least ones you can turn off, these being that I (we can't speak for Bumpin' just assuming) compete and this is the best way to get the most output voltage to an amplifier and also the cleanest signal.
Ok I hope I havn't bored you with this book and I'm ending this chapter in my book.
I will dissagree to some extent, yes some newer high powered head units can run some sets of component speakers. Very well, that's a totally different question. Your factory amplifier was to take place of all the crap shall we say that Toyota factory decided to cram into all of our stock head units tape deck for allot of us, useless! Almost any head unit can power a moderate set of coaxial or component speakers without failure ever but when you start to get into the higher level (quality and $$$) speaker sets I would agree with no they won't. Deck power is still deck power no matter how many watts each brand may state. The analogy that I use in the biz is how can a 60x4 watt deck be compaired to a 60x4 watt amplifier when the amplifier needs upgraded wire and is usually twice the size of a head unit and it doesn't even contain the cd player or radio tuner? Your factory speaker setup is the same way as most moderate level coaxial speaker and some components, you have a midrange speaker and a tweeter with a capacitor on the tweeter to filter out all the low range freq. to keep it from blowing up. However your factory setup in no way compares to these moderate level speaker because mostly of there construction which in my case on my new 03' Taco they where still a paper coned midrange, almost nobody uses paper anymore except for the factory. I along with Bumpin' also go for the more high end head units that don't have any internal power (speaker outputs) or at least ones you can turn off, these being that I (we can't speak for Bumpin' just assuming) compete and this is the best way to get the most output voltage to an amplifier and also the cleanest signal.
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I think we are agreeing but I've found there is a HUGE difference btwn a HU's 25 watts and a separate amplifier's 25 watts, hence the need for upgraded power wires, no tuner, etc....
I compete too, only in db drag racing.....