What kind of mpg in your 3rd gen?
12-28-2012, 07:22 PM
#201
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Location: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
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So your saying theres a big difference between stock roof racks and larger after market ones on mpg...??? Especially depending on whats on them.. Thats what im saying. Sooooo.......???
Ya this one will cost you some noticeable mpgs.
But not this one:
That rack has less drag then your mirrors do.
Your better off folding in your mirrors then taking that rack off in hopes of getting better milage.
12-28-2012, 09:55 PM
#202
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12-28-2012, 10:59 PM
#203
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Did you read all these threads?
So your saying theres a big difference between stock roof racks and larger after market ones on mpg...??? Especially depending on whats on them.. Thats what im saying. Sooooo.......???
Ya this one will cost you some noticeable mpgs.
But not this one:
That rack has less drag then your mirrors do.
Your better off folding in your mirrors then taking that rack off in hopes of getting better milage.Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech
Last edited by Robb235; 12-29-2012 at 04:30 AM.
12-29-2012, 04:32 PM
#204
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I've been talking about after market racks this whole time.
12-29-2012, 05:01 PM
#205
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Starting with the roof rack... please just do a simple Google search of roof racks and MPGs. After market roof racks, such as the Yakima I have, have a well documented record of cutting into gas mileage. I'm not even going to bother with trying to explain aerodynamics to you, as clearly you are the one who lacks a basic understanding.
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12-29-2012, 06:55 PM
#206
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Sorry I have a.d.d. And not the differential type. Much worse. I missed those sadly. But you gotta admit those stock ones are not hurting mpg. Id stick with those if you rarely use yours. 
12-31-2012, 12:54 PM
#209
I haven't been able to perceive a difference in mileage with my Yakima rack on or off. Increasing my tire pressure makes a difference and I've noticed that mountain driving where speeds rarely exceed 60MPH give me the 20+ MPG numbers. I would *think* that a drive down a flat freeway interstate at 70 MPH (the speedlimit) would return the best mileage, but I get around 18.5-19 MPG in those situations.
Best scenario for me is 34-35 psi in the tires, 55-60MPH mountain driving where I will regularly get 20-21 MPG supercharged.
Best scenario for me is 34-35 psi in the tires, 55-60MPH mountain driving where I will regularly get 20-21 MPG supercharged.
12-31-2012, 10:32 PM
#210
Not nessarily. The engine is more effecient at higher RPMs, like say climbing a mountain. Then the the fuel should be shut off, if you are truly coasting down hill. Climbing = storing energy, while it is being generated at a higher effeciency.
01-01-2013, 11:32 AM
#211
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Engines are usually more efficient at higher load. As a rule of thumb, brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) tends to be lowest at the torque peak and climb toward the horsepower peak.
When I think of "coasting," I think of putting the trans in neutral and letting the engine idle. The injectors are only shut off during engine braking and is the reason that engine braking nets better economy than "coasting."
When I think of "coasting," I think of putting the trans in neutral and letting the engine idle. The injectors are only shut off during engine braking and is the reason that engine braking nets better economy than "coasting."
01-02-2013, 05:51 AM
#212
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Thread Starter
Engines are usually more efficient at higher load. As a rule of thumb, brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC) tends to be lowest at the torque peak and climb toward the horsepower peak.
When I think of "coasting," I think of putting the trans in neutral and letting the engine idle. The injectors are only shut off during engine braking and is the reason that engine braking nets better economy than "coasting."
When I think of "coasting," I think of putting the trans in neutral and letting the engine idle. The injectors are only shut off during engine braking and is the reason that engine braking nets better economy than "coasting."
04-16-2013, 08:10 PM
#217
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1996 4Runner with V6. I average around 18-20 on the highway depending on how pissed off everyone is making me. But about 17 in the city. This is an entirely stock 4Runner on 265/70/16 with 160,000 running dino oil.
04-19-2013, 09:54 AM
#218
or, does not apply, or is very rare,
or it didn't happen to me BBMcF, and I am lucky
on OEM tires at OEM pressures,
all my vehicles were spot on with MPH,
I take the time to measure this type of stuff, as one of my hobbies
is checking out speedo accuracy (due to a loudmouth I met in Texas)
for me anyway: all these dead-accurate
renault-R5 turbo (timed closed course)
renault R5 LeCar (timed closed course)
dodge omni (timed closed course)
tercel (timed closed course)
dodge shadow (timed closed course)
dodge avenger (timed closed course)
ford escort wagon GPS
4runner GPS
yaris GPS
tacoma GPS
ford focus GPS
(all of these dead-nut within 1/10th over 100 miles)
---
now my motorcycles were a different story.
all three were showing 5 mph faster than actual speed
honda cx500 turbo (timed closed course)
aprilia falco (timed closed course)
MZ Blank Panther (timed closed course and GPS)
Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 04-19-2013 at 09:55 AM.
04-19-2013, 05:22 PM
#219
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I've found the opposite to be true. My 4Runner reads a couple mph high, but my Yamaha R6 is pretty close. This is according to my gps.
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04-19-2013, 07:02 PM
#220
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Just because the speedometer reads high does not mean the odometer is wrong, especially with electronic gauge clusters like we have. My Taco reads about 2mph low at 65mph, but the mileage is closer to actual than a 2mph discrepancy should show.
Also, GPS comparisons should be done on flat, straight, and level roads. Changes in elevation or heading will noticeably increase error.
