What are the best spark plugs for the 3.0?
#1
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What are the best spark plugs for the 3.0?
First off,
do you guys torque your plugs or hand tighten 'till snug?
do you use any anti-seize lube? if so, what kind? if not, why not?
I know that using anti-seize can harm components if the wrong kind of anti-seize is used on an EFI system and I also konw that using anti-seize offsets torque readings by about 65%.
Are there any other downsides to using an antiseize lube?
What are the benefits? (other than easier removal?)
How do you apply the lube if you use any?
And finally, what is your favorite method for installing new spark plugs in the 3.0 It looks like the driver's side plugs would be hard to get to unless some of intake is remoed and there are a lot of wires and hoses over the last plug on the passenger's side.
How do you deal with these?
I'm thinking about going with IK16 DENSO iridium plugs. Here is the website:
http://www.densoiridium.com/findmypart.php
do you guys torque your plugs or hand tighten 'till snug?
do you use any anti-seize lube? if so, what kind? if not, why not?
I know that using anti-seize can harm components if the wrong kind of anti-seize is used on an EFI system and I also konw that using anti-seize offsets torque readings by about 65%.
Are there any other downsides to using an antiseize lube?
What are the benefits? (other than easier removal?)
How do you apply the lube if you use any?
And finally, what is your favorite method for installing new spark plugs in the 3.0 It looks like the driver's side plugs would be hard to get to unless some of intake is remoed and there are a lot of wires and hoses over the last plug on the passenger's side.
How do you deal with these?
I'm thinking about going with IK16 DENSO iridium plugs. Here is the website:
http://www.densoiridium.com/findmypart.php
#2
I have heard NGK is the best as it is the factory plugs and will cause no problems. That being said, I use Bosch platinums and have had no issues.
You don't need anti-seize on your plugs. If any of those silver particles get into the combustion chamber, you are in trouble. Instead, coat the threads with a bit of engine oil when you install them. I saw that tip from "two guys garage".
You don't need anti-seize on your plugs. If any of those silver particles get into the combustion chamber, you are in trouble. Instead, coat the threads with a bit of engine oil when you install them. I saw that tip from "two guys garage".
#3
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Don't torque your plugs. You need to be careful not to overtighten too. They will feel like they are still getting tight but what you are doing is smashing the washer that is on the plug. My dad taught me years ago to tighten till it feels snug, back it out a few turns and then tighten it back down once that washer has flattened a bit. Just my personal technique........
#6
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Probably because to "torque" something without any measurements associated with it, is garage talk for really getting on it with an 18" breaker bar. 13 ft. lbs. is a very low amount of torque to apply if your're using a micrometer torque wrench. You could easily apply that amount of torque with a 3/8" ratchet and there's probably more than a couple of guys that could apply it with a 1/4" ratchet.
So when UK said don't torque it, he means don't overtighten it.
Can't get much more verbose than that, can I?
So when UK said don't torque it, he means don't overtighten it.
Can't get much more verbose than that, can I?
#7
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Go to www.sparkplugs.com and look up your year, make, and model, and they will have different levels of plugs. The best plugs are supposably the new iridium NGK's or Denso's. Check it out!
Chris
Chris
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#9
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On my '95 3.0 the drivers side plugs are a snap to replace. Yes you do want to pull off the intake tubes. That's quick and easy. The front passenger side plug is also pretty easy...but the two rear passenger side plugs are a real B!@# to replace. Just about as much fun as trying to replace the PCV valve or to get a wrench on the foward flare nut of the fuel filter. If I EVER meet those engineers...::grrrrrrrr::
A little dab of oil on the plug threads helps a lot.
A little dab of oil on the plug threads helps a lot.
#10
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I did mine last night - along with the wires, cap, rotor, and some other mods. Long night for me.
Anyway, I took pics of the whole process and while it's nothing major, I was going to do a writeup. I didn't have any problems, access to plugs 3 & 5 is challenge, but it wasn't all that bad really.
I pulled my Bosch +4's after a year and replaced them with stock issue Toyota Denso's. I think the Bosch's were contributing to some of the extra heat under the hood.
Next fun project - fuel filter...
Anyway, I took pics of the whole process and while it's nothing major, I was going to do a writeup. I didn't have any problems, access to plugs 3 & 5 is challenge, but it wasn't all that bad really.
I pulled my Bosch +4's after a year and replaced them with stock issue Toyota Denso's. I think the Bosch's were contributing to some of the extra heat under the hood.
Next fun project - fuel filter...
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Hope you have better luck than I did with the fuel filter. I finally had to pay to have the fuel line cut out and spliced back in to replace mine the nuts were so seized up. And that was after I had used nearly a full can of PB blaster soaking it every day for two weeks....still nothing.
#14
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Yeah, I'm gettin ready to do an oil change on mine too.
I think I'm gonna go with AMSOIL, I have heard some pretty bad stories about the fuel filters!
I don't even know where the da*n thing is!
I think I'm gonna go with AMSOIL, I have heard some pretty bad stories about the fuel filters!
I don't even know where the da*n thing is!
#15
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Originally posted by ravencr
No not that much gas leaks out. Just don't be right underneath it.
Chris
No not that much gas leaks out. Just don't be right underneath it.
Chris
(No I don't smoke...)
#17
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Originally posted by Cebby
I know this is OT, but with the fuel filter, when I pull it, will I get gas all over me?
I know this is OT, but with the fuel filter, when I pull it, will I get gas all over me?
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